First: what “Yuan dynasty ceramics” can look like

Collectors often imagine Yuan ceramics as one specific “look,” but the period includes multiple kiln centers and materials. Depending on where (and for whom) an object was made, it might be:

• Longquan celadon (green glaze): thick, glassy green glaze with carved or molded decoration under the glaze.
• Cizhou and northern wares: bolder forms, often with slip decoration (black/brown on lighter body) and more utilitarian profiles.
• Early blue-and-white: cobalt decoration under glaze—rare in true Yuan and widely copied.
• Tomb wares (mingqi): objects made for burial—some are earthenware, some glazed, many are stylistically “period,” but not always as finely finished as court wares.

So when someone says “funerary urns from the Yuan dynasty,” the best next step is to document what the pieces are physically: their material (porcelain vs. stoneware vs. earthenware), glaze type, firing features, and wear.

How to document your two pieces for identification

The fastest way to get a meaningful opinion is a consistent photo set for each piece. Do this in bright indirect light (window light is fine), with a ruler or tape measure visible in at least one shot.

• Full front, back, and side views (show the entire silhouette).
• Top view (rim profile, any lid-seat, interior glaze line).
• Base / foot rim (unglazed clay, trimming marks, kiln grit, any sticker residue).
• Close-ups of decoration (incising, carving, painting, stamped marks).
• Close-ups of damage/repairs (chips, cracks, filled losses, overpaint).
• Weight + measurements (height, max diameter, mouth diameter, foot diameter).

Quick authentication clues: body, glaze, and foot

You don’t need to be a conservator to spot red flags. A few “big picture” indicators can help you decide whether you’re likely looking at modern decorative ceramics or older kiln wares.

1) The ceramic body (what it’s made of)

• Porcelain (high-fired, white body) is common in later periods, but Yuan porcelain exists too—especially in Jingdezhen production.
• Stoneware (gray/buff body) is common for Longquan celadon and many utilitarian forms.
• Earthenware (more porous, lower-fired) can appear in some tomb wares; it often rings less “glass-like” when tapped lightly.

2) Glaze behavior

• Natural glaze pooling in recesses and a clear “stopping line” (where glaze ends) are good signs; overly uniform glaze everywhere can be a modern tell.
• Crazing (fine crackle) can be natural or induced; evaluate it alongside wear and staining.
• Bright, glossy glaze with no handling wear on rim edges is often modern—especially if the piece is claimed to be excavated.

3) The foot rim and base

• Unglazed base with kiln grit/sand is common in older Chinese ceramics (but also imitated).
• Trimming marks should look purposeful and consistent with wheel finishing, not random sanding.
• Artificial aging often shows as “even” abrasion in places that wouldn’t naturally wear, or uniform dark staining that wipes away with a damp cotton swab.

Are they really a pair?

Many buyers acquire “pairs” that were matched by a dealer rather than made together. That doesn’t make them worthless, but it can affect value—especially if you’re hoping they are a matched set from the same kiln and period.

Check whether both pieces match on these points:

• Same clay color at the foot rim (not just the same glaze).
• Same glaze thickness and tone (celadon can vary; look for overall consistency).
• Same firing scars (spur marks, kiln grit pattern, glaze stop line).
• Same proportions (rim diameter, shoulder profile, foot diameter).
• Same wear pattern (handling wear on the rim/shoulder should look “lived-in,” not staged).

Marks—and why Yuan pieces are often unmarked

A common misconception: “If it’s real, it should have a reign mark.” In reality, many earlier wares are unmarked, and reign marks become more systematic later. Even when marks exist, they can be apocryphal (later marks added to honor an earlier period).

If your bases show a neat six-character mark in underglaze blue, treat it cautiously: that pattern is much more typical of later Ming/Qing marking conventions than authentic Yuan wares.

Condition issues that matter most for value

Condition is a major price driver in Chinese ceramics. Two pieces with the same “type” can be separated by a factor of 5× (or more) depending on repairs.

• Rim chips: common and often acceptable on utilitarian wares, but they reduce value.
• Hairlines: fine cracks are serious; they can spread with temperature changes.
• Restoration/overpaint: UV light can reveal modern fill and overpaint; professional restoration is not automatically “bad,” but it must be disclosed.
• Excavation staining: genuine burial staining tends to be uneven and integrated; uniform “mud wash” can be a modern effect.

Value ranges (and why the range is so wide)

Without seeing your pieces, it’s not responsible to give a single number. But we can outline realistic ranges and show how auctions treat comparable categories.

Lower market: “Yuan style” or mixed-attribution lots

In general auctions, lots described as “Yuan / Ming” or “possibly Yuan” can sell for a few hundred dollars—especially when the attribution is uncertain.

• Direct Auction Galleries, Inc. (USA), Lot 132 (Jan 18, 2025): “Yuan / Ming Dynasty Chinese Porcelain Jarlets” realized $300.
• Orion Antiques (USA), Lot 39 (Jan 28, 2025): “Huge Chinese Porcelain Covered Ginger Jar” described as “Possibly Yuan Dynasty” realized $275.

Specialist market: authenticated Yuan kiln wares

When a piece is convincingly dated to the Yuan period (especially Longquan celadon), the market moves to major houses and specialist bidders.

• Sotheby’s, Lot 2032 (Oct 29, 2024): “Longquan celadon ‘phoenix’ vase … Yuan dynasty” realized HKD 1,320,000.
• Sotheby’s, Lot 41 (Apr 9, 2024): “Large carved Longquan celadon bowl, Yuan dynasty” realized HKD 330,200.
• Bonhams, Lot 335 (Nov 27, 2024): “Longquan celadon-glazed ‘fish’ dish, Yuan dynasty” realized HKD 280,000.

Those comps illustrate why attribution matters. A pair of genuine Yuan-period celadon vessels with good condition and strong provenance can be many multiples of a modern decorative pair.

What to do next (a simple path)

1. Photograph the pair systematically (full views + base close-ups + any damage).
2. Write down your purchase context: where in China, what year, from what kind of seller.
3. Don’t clean aggressively. Avoid soaking, abrasive scrubbing, or removing “staining” until a specialist weighs in.
4. Consider expert review if the bodies/glazes look promising—especially if the foot rims and wear look naturally consistent.

If you want a concise written appraisal plan, submit your photos through the mid-article intake above. We’ll respond with an initial range and the most useful next steps (including whether lab testing would add value).