A Circa 1940s Cocacola Metallic Vintage Take Home A Carton Sign

For many collectors, the “Take Home a Carton” Coca‑Cola sign is one of the clearest symbols of mid‑century American retailing: bright color, crisp graphics, and a simple call to action. Circa 1940s examples in metal (tin lithograph or porcelain enamel) remain strong performers at appraisal and auction, but they are also heavily reproduced. This guide breaks down what you need to know to identify, date, authenticate, and appraise an original.

What Is the 1940s “Take Home a Carton” Coca‑Cola Sign?

The “Take Home a Carton” message promoted purchasing six contour bottles in a branded carrier rather than a single on‑premise drink. The carrier package was introduced in the 1920s, but the message reached peak retail saturation in the late 1930s and through the 1940s.

Key period characteristics:

• Message: Variants include “Take Home a Carton,” “Take home a carton today,” or “Take home a carton of Coca‑Cola.” Some examples incorporate a price field (often 25¢, sometimes handwritten or printed).
• Imagery: A red corrugated cardboard six‑pack carrier with white Coca‑Cola script and green glass contour bottles. Highlighting, ice cubes, and condensation details are common.
• Logo treatment: Classic Coca‑Cola Spencerian script (no fishtail), often with a small “Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.”/“Trade-Mark ®” line below. Fishtail logos begin in 1958—if you see a fishtail, it’s not 1940s.
• Color palette: Coca‑Cola red dominates, with white script, green bottles, and yellow accents or borders. Backgrounds vary: clean white, yellow, or Coca‑Cola red fields are typical.
• Formats: Single‑sided flat signs, flange signs (double‑sided with a right‑angle mounting flange), door push plates, and menu or price panels. Many retail wall signs include corner holes or grommets for mounting.

Wartime context matters. During World War II (especially 1942–1945), metal was restricted, so Coca‑Cola heavily used cardboard, Masonite, and fiberboard. Genuine 1940s metal examples exist from early in the decade and again post‑war (1946–1949), with some porcelain flange signs produced both before and after wartime restrictions.

Materials, Makers, and Dating Cues

Coca‑Cola relied on a network of sign manufacturers. Knowing materials and maker’s marks is central to dating and authentication.

Common materials:

• Tin lithograph (steel sheet with lithographed paint/ink): Most “Take Home a Carton” wall signs are tin litho. Finish is smooth; edges are crimped/rolled; there is no glassy vitreous layer. Microscopic dot patterns in the printed areas are visible under magnification.
• Porcelain enamel (porcelain on steel): Less common for this message but known in flange and small wall formats. Surface is glossy, glass‑like, with layered enamel; edges often show a darker (sometimes brown/black) “porcelain edge.” Graphics are crisp without halftone dot patterns.
• Aluminum is uncommon for the period; if aluminum is present, be cautious—it’s more often a later reproduction or display piece.
• Cardboard/fiberboard: Period‑correct but not “metallic.” Mentioned here because the same graphic appears across materials; do not mistake a rigid, glossy cardboard sign for porcelain.

Known makers and marks (look along the lower margin or reverse of flanges):

• A‑M Sign Company (Lynchburg, VA): Coded as “A‑M M‑YY” (e.g., A‑M 6‑49). Common on post‑war tin signs.
• American Art Works (Coshocton, OH): Often spelled out “American Art Works” with a year, or abbreviated; prevalent early 1940s tin litho.
• Stout Sign Co. (St. Louis, MO): Printed “Stout Sign Co.” with year or internal code.
• Robertson (Springfield, OH): Appears as “Robertson” plus month‑year code, common late 1940s–1950s.
• Scioto Signs (Kenton, OH): “Scioto Signs”/“Scioto Sign Co.” marks appear with date codes.
• Porcelain makers: Ingram‑Richardson (Beaver Falls, PA / Canton, OH) and Tennessee Enamel Mfg. Co. (Nashville). Their marks may be stamped or printed on the flange or lower border.

Dating cues:

• Maker/date line: A month‑year code (e.g., “A‑M 3‑48”) or spelled‑out year (e.g., “American Art Works 1941”) is the most reliable. Absence doesn’t mean repro, but it raises scrutiny.
• Price fields: Printed prices are more common pre‑ and immediate post‑war. They’re not definitive, but an integrated lithographed “25¢” is consistent with late 1930s–1940s.
• Finish and fastener features: Wartime/economy runs sometimes have thinner gauge metal and simpler grommets. Post‑war examples often show cleaner lithography and consistent rolled edges.
• Logo signaling: No fishtail; “Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.” lines vary by maker and year and shouldn’t be used alone to date.

Design Variants and Size Guide

Because Coca‑Cola commissioned many runs, you’ll encounter multiple layouts. A few of the more encountered metallic variants:

• Horizontal wall tin: Rectangular red or yellow field, large carrier at left or right, “Take Home a Carton” in contrasting block or script at the opposite end. Sizes commonly around 12×36 in or 18×54 in. Some have thin yellow or white keylines and pre‑punched mounting holes.
• Vertical wall tin: Taller format, carrier centered or lower third, message above. Roughly 16×27 in or 27×19 in are seen; dimensions vary by maker.
• Porcelain flange: Double‑sided porcelain with the slogan and carrier; flange typically 2–3 inches wide with two screw holes. Panel sizes often in the 15–20 inch height range, though larger exist.
• Door push plates: Narrow tin strips (e.g., ~4×30 in) with the message and sometimes the carrier. These see heavy wear and are scarcer in high grade.

Small design tells:

• Hand‑lettered price windows: A blank oval or rectangle intended for chalk/pencil pricing suggests retailer customization and is consistent with original retail use.
• Embossing: Some tin litho signs are lightly embossed (raised edges or carrier highlights), but many are flat. Deep, crude embossing can indicate modern novelty pieces.
• Borders and grommets: Factory grommets (brass‑colored or steel) seated cleanly within punched holes are a good sign. Added, mismatched, or ragged holes reduce value.

Value Drivers and Market Ranges

Appraised values vary with size, material, scarcity, and especially condition. The ranges below reflect typical retail/auction outcomes for authentic examples as of recent years; premium results occur for exceptional grade and rare variants.

Primary value factors:

• Condition grade: Collectors often use terms (Mint, Near Mint, Excellent, Very Good, Good, Fair, Poor) or a 1–10 scale. Look for gloss, color integrity, minimal scratches, no extra holes, and clean edges. Porcelain is graded by gloss and chip size/location; tin litho by paint loss, fading, and rust.
• Size and format: Larger wall tins and porcelain flanges are generally more valuable than door pushes and small panels, assuming similar condition.
• Maker and date: Certain makers and early‑1940s dated pieces can bring a premium. A clearly printed, datable mark helps value.
• Graphic strength: Bold carrier depiction, balanced layout, and any desirable add‑ons (price field, seasonal motifs) improve demand.
• Provenance: Retail origin or collection history helps but is not required.

Indicative value ranges (authentic examples, approximate):

• Tin litho wall signs, 12×36 in: Good $350–700; Very Good/Excellent $800–1,500; exceptional $1,800+.
• Tin litho wall signs, 18×54 in: Good $900–1,800; Very Good/Excellent $2,000–4,000; exceptional $5,000+ for scarce variants.
• Porcelain flange signs: Side chips and edge wear are expected; Good $1,500–3,000; Very Good/Excellent $3,500–7,000; rare maker/graphic combos can exceed these.
• Door push plates: Heavy use makes high grade scarce; Good $125–250; Very Good/Excellent $300–600; top examples more.
• Cardboard/fiberboard (for comparison, not metallic): Condition‑sensitive; Good $100–300; Excellent $400–900 depending on size.

Notes:

• Alterations (clear‑coat over tin litho, inpainting, filled holes) generally reduce value, especially if undisclosed.
• Bright, consistent reds are crucial; sun‑fade to orange/pink significantly lowers grade.
• Regional demand can move prices ±20–30%; marquee auction results for best‑in‑class pieces can exceed “typical” ranges.

Authenticity, Care, and Storage

Because “Take Home a Carton” art is popular, reproductions abound. Learn the common tells and best practices for preservation.

How to authenticate:

• Maker’s mark: Originals often carry a lower‑margin mark such as “A‑M 4‑49,” “American Art Works 1941,” “Robertson 3‑48,” “Stout Sign Co. 1949,” or similar. Absence isn’t fatal but should prompt close inspection.
• Printing method:
  • Tin litho: Under a loupe, you’ll see fine halftone dot patterns in shaded areas. Edges are rolled; paint layers are thin and integrated with the metal.
  • Porcelain: Surface is vitreous and slightly raised at color separations; no dot pattern. Chips expose white or dark brown/black underlayers and then steel.
• Graphics fidelity: Coca‑Cola script proportions are exacting. Watch for clumsy letterforms, inconsistent carrier details, and off‑register colors. Bottle highlights should be crisp, not muddy.
• Aging patterns:
  • Period wear: Even, gentle oxidation on the back; edge rub, light scratches; grommet wear matching mounting points; porcelain chips with natural “spidering” and rust halos.
  • Artificial aging: Abrasive swirl marks, uniform faux rust color applied on top of graphics, straight‑edge “chop” chips, or tea‑stain residues.
• Weight and feel: Porcelain pieces feel heavier and “glass‑slick.” Some reproductions are on thin steel or aluminum and feel light for their size.

Care and conservation:

• Cleaning tin litho: Use a soft microfiber cloth slightly dampened with distilled water and a drop of mild dish soap. Avoid solvents, abrasive pads, and magic erasers—they can burnish litho inks.
• Cleaning porcelain: Dust with microfiber; for grime, use distilled water and a few drops of gentle soap. Avoid harsh acids; never try to “polish out” chips.
• Rust control: For light surface oxidation on the back, stabilize in a dry environment. Do not sand the front. Serious conservation should be handled by a professional.
• UV and humidity: Display away from direct sunlight. Ideal relative humidity is 40–55%. Avoid attics, garages, and damp basements.
• Mounting: Use existing factory holes/grommets. If framing, ensure non‑reactive spacers and avoid adhesives on the surface.

Quick appraisal checklist:

• Verify the logo style (no fishtail) and period‑correct “Take Home a Carton” message.
• Identify material: tin litho vs porcelain; confirm printing/enamel characteristics under magnification.
• Locate and photograph maker’s mark/date code along the lower margin or flange.
• Measure exact dimensions; note orientation (horizontal/vertical) and format (flat/flange/push plate).
• Grade condition honestly: front and back photos in diffuse light; note chips, scratches, fading, extra holes.
• Cross‑check graphics against known variants; look for incongruent fonts or bottle shapes.
• Record provenance if available and compare to recent market ranges for like‑kind pieces.

FAQ

Q: How can I date my sign if there’s no maker’s mark or printed year? A: Correlate format, dimensions, and printing method to known examples. The absence of a fishtail, presence of tin litho or porcelain consistent with the era, and 1940s layout conventions (“Take Home a Carton” with the red six‑pack carrier) support a 1940s attribution. If you have an early‑postwar look (clean lithography, rolled edges, no wartime material substitutions), late 1940s is likely. When in doubt, compare minute graphic details—letter spacing, bottle highlights, and border lines—to documented, dated pieces from the same maker.

Q: Are reproductions always lower value? A: Yes, for collectors’ purposes. Reproductions are decorative and typically trade for a fraction of authentic examples. Some well‑made reproductions can fool casual buyers; if you plan to sell or insure, have the piece examined by a knowledgeable dealer or appraiser.

Q: Should I restore a damaged original? A: Usually no for tin litho; even professional inpainting lowers collector value unless the work is disclosed and minimal. For porcelain, expert edge stabilization is sometimes acceptable, but patching large chips or re‑enameling will reduce value. Stabilize and clean conservatively; keep original surfaces and holes.

Q: What’s the safest way to ship a metal Coca‑Cola sign? A: Use rigid foam boards front and back, a poly sleeve to prevent abrasion, and corner protectors. Float the protected sign in a double‑walled box with 2–3 inches of cushioning on all sides. For porcelain flanges, box the flange separately in a custom recess to prevent leverage cracks. Insure for full value.

Q: Do handwritten price fields increase value? A: They can add display charm and period context, but condition and graphic strength matter more. Clean, factory‑printed price fields are generally preferred; sloppy or degraded hand pricing may slightly detract unless it’s unusually well preserved or historically interesting.

By focusing on maker’s marks, correct materials, era‑appropriate graphics, and honest condition grading, you can confidently evaluate a circa 1940s metallic “Take Home a Carton” Coca‑Cola sign and place it accurately within the market.