A Fine Quality Circa Late 19th Century Silver Souvenir Spoon

The Souvenir Spoon Craze, 1885–1900

By the late Victorian era, souvenir spoons had become a cultural phenomenon. Tourism, world’s fairs, and rising middle-class travel created demand for small, artful mementos. In the United States, the 1893 World’s Columbian Exposition in Chicago catalyzed a nationwide collecting craze, while in Europe, spa towns, alpine resorts, and imperial capitals offered their own regional interpretations.

Typical late 19th-century souvenir spoons were teaspoons (roughly 5–6 inches; 12–25 grams), though demitasse examples exist. They celebrated cities, states, national achievements, and scenic wonders, with figural finials, pictorial bowls, and finely engraved or die-struck ornament. Quality ranged from simple stamped tourist ware to sculptural, cast-and-applied pieces by leading silversmiths.

For the appraiser, this niche combines decorative arts, metallurgy, and social history. “Fine quality” in this category is usually indicated by sterling standard or better, superior modeling and engraving, reputable makers, and crisp, unworn detail.

Materials, Standards, and Hallmarks

Understanding silver standards and marks is the first step to dating and valuing a spoon.

• Sterling vs. coin silver

  • Sterling silver is .925 fineness. By the 1890s, most American souvenir spoons are sterling and typically marked “STERLING,” sometimes accompanied by a maker’s device.
  • Coin silver (approximately .900) appears more often mid-19th century; true coin-silver souvenir spoons are less common in the craze period but do exist regionally or where older stock was repurposed.

• U.S. marks you may see

  • “STERLING” prominently stamped.
  • Maker’s marks such as:
    • Gorham: lion-anchor-G.
    • Whiting: a griffin with “W.”
    • Durgin: a script “D” in a circle or oval.
    • Dominick & Haff: intertwined D&H.
    • Unger Brothers: “UB” in a cartouche.
    • Tiffany & Co.: full name stamp, sometimes with pattern registration dates.
  • Pseudo-hallmarks are common decorative devices; ensure they accompany “STERLING” or a known maker’s device to avoid plated wares masquerading as sterling.

• British and Irish hallmarking

  • A full hallmark suite includes a maker’s initials, lion passant (English sterling), assay office mark (e.g., London’s leopard head; Birmingham’s anchor), and a date letter.
  • These marks allow precise dating. Late Victorian examples will show date letters corresponding to the 1880s–1890s.

• Continental European systems

  • Germany (post-1888): crescent moon and crown with a numeric fineness (often 800 or 835).
  • France: Minerva head with numeral indicating standard (1 for 950, 2 for 800).
  • Austro-Hungarian (1872–1922): Diana head with town letter and fineness number (e.g., 2 for .900, 3 for .800).
  • Scandinavia: often numeric fineness (830S/925S) and maker’s stamp; late 19th to early 20th century enameled spoons are particularly desirable (Norway’s David Andersen and Marius Hammer are notable, though much of their prolific output is early 20th century).

• Plated wares to recognize and avoid

  • EPNS, A1, or “SILVER PLATE” marks indicate plating. Heavily decorated plated tourist spoons exist and can be charming, but they do not carry the same value as sterling.
  • Nickel silver (German silver) contains no silver and is often plated. It may be marked “ALPACA,” “N.S.,” or “NICKEL SILVER.”

Subtleties in marking can refine dating. For instance, the prevalence of the word “STERLING” on American spoons is strong in the 1890s; a simple “925” is more often seen later in the 20th century in U.S. products, though continental makers used numeric fineness in the 19th century.

Makers and Regional Variations

While many jewelers retailed souvenir spoons, a handful of manufacturers set the quality standard. Identifying these names (or their devices) can move a spoon into a higher value tier.

• United States

  • Gorham: Produced finely modeled scenic and figural spoons, often with die-struck bowls of iconic landmarks. Crisp detail and weight are tells.
  • Durgin: Known for state and city series; attractive relief work and consistent sterling quality.
  • Whiting, Dominick & Haff, and Unger Brothers: From classical to Art Nouveau aesthetics. Unger’s sculptural, high-relief handles are sought after.
  • Wallace, Towle, Shiebler, Shreve & Co., and Reed & Barton: Varied regional and exhibition pieces. Shiebler’s applied medallions and aesthetic designs are especially collectible.
  • Retailer marks: J.E. Caldwell, Bailey, Banks & Biddle, Shreve, Crump & Low, and other top retailers commissioned high-quality spoons from the above makers.

• Britain and Ireland

  • Tourist destination spoons (e.g., seaside resorts, cathedrals) with full hallmarks. Quality ranges from simple engraved bowls to cast crests and pictorials.

• Germany, Austria-Hungary, and Switzerland

  • German 800 silver with pictorial bowls and cast city arms; the crescent-moon-and-crown with “800” is common.
  • Austro-Hungarian pieces often have elegant engraving and refined shafts; look for the Diana head mark.
  • Swiss spoons may feature cantonal shields and scenic alpine views, sometimes with champlevé enamel.

• Scandinavia

  • Late 19th-century examples exist, but the golden age of guilloché enamel souvenir spoons blossoms c. 1900–1930. Earlier pieces with enamel are prized and more scarce.

• Russia

  • Kokoshnik-marked spoons (1896–1908) occasionally appear with niello or enamel; tourist themes are less common than regional folk designs but command attention when present.

Place-specific demand affects value. U.S. collectors favor iconic locales such as Niagara Falls, Yellowstone, Yosemite, and World’s Fairs. European buyers respond to grand-tour cities and spa towns. Rarity within a city or state series (short production runs, special fairs) is particularly impactful.

Construction and Design Clues

Construction quality is a fast way to separate ordinary from fine souvenir spoons.

• Handles and finials

  • Cast-and-applied finials (state seals, figures, coats of arms) usually indicate higher craftsmanship than simply die-stamped decoration. Look for sharp undercuts and well-finished joints.
  • Openwork (pierced) elements should be clean, with no burrs or crude solder.

• Bowls

  • Pictorial bowls can be die-struck (raised scene) or hand-engraved. The best engraving shows confident, varied line work and depth, often labeled with period script. Die-struck bowls should have crisp detail; softness can indicate heavy wear or a later reproduction taken from a worn die.
  • Parcel-gilt bowls (gilded interiors) protected from tarnish and egg sulfur—common on presentation-quality spoons.

• Surface finish and ornament

  • Bright-cut engraving around borders, stippled grounds behind figures, and subtle matte finishes reflect more labor and are desirable.
  • Enamel: Champlevé (cells carved into the silver and filled with enamel) and guilloché (engine-turned grounds under translucent enamel) appear mainly on continental and Scandinavian pieces. Chips lower value significantly.

• Weight and balance

  • While not all fine spoons are heavy, many higher-grade examples have a satisfying density and balanced feel. Excessively thin bowls bent upward are red flags for lower-grade or heavily worn spoons.

• Assembly and solder

  • Neat, nearly invisible solder lines at joints suggest workshop finesse. Bulky or discolored joints may indicate repairs or lesser production standards.

• Period inscriptions

  • Dating inscriptions (e.g., “1894”) or dedication lines can corroborate age and add charm, especially when linked to a specific fair or visit. Later presentation inscriptions may be neutral for value unless they establish provenance.

Examining, Valuing, and Caring For Your Spoon

Approach appraisal systematically. Document, verify, then value.

Attribution and dating

• Photograph marks and the entire spoon (front, back, details).
• Identify silver standard and maker using the marks described above. Use a loupe to catch faint stamps; many marks sit on the reverse of the handle near the bowl, or at the very tip.
• Correlate design with historical events (e.g., Columbian Exposition motifs, statehood commemorations) to support a late 19th-century date.
• Avoid destructive testing. If necessary, non-invasive XRF testing confirms fineness; acid testing risks staining and is not recommended on collectible spoons.

Quality and condition

• Evaluate crispness of relief, completeness of enamel, integrity of gilding, and sharpness of engraving.
• Note bends, bowl tip wear, rim nicks, pitting, or solder repairs. All impact value.
• Retain original patina. Over-polishing rounds detail and reduces desirability.

Market and comparables

• Rank your spoon by maker, subject, and quality. Top-tier makers and iconic subjects command stronger prices.
• Compare like-for-like: same maker, similar subject, equivalent condition. A rare fair-specific spoon in superior condition will outpace a common city view by the same maker.

Indicative value ranges (subject to maker, subject, and condition)

• Common American sterling souvenir spoons (uncommon locale, decent relief): approximately $40–125.
• High-quality pictorial or figural spoons by Gorham, Durgin, Whiting, Unger: approximately $150–400+.
• Enameled continental spoons (late 19th–early 20th): approximately $75–250, more for scarce towns and pristine enamel.
• Exceptional pieces (Tiffany & Co., Shiebler applied medallion work, rare exposition commissions, Russian niello/enamel): approximately $500–1,500+, with outliers higher when rarity and condition align.

Care and storage

• Clean gently with a soft microfiber cloth. Avoid silver dips; they can strip gilding and etch detail.
• If tarnish must be reduced, use a mild, non-abrasive silver polish sparingly, keeping it away from enamel and gilded areas. Rinse and dry thoroughly.
• Store in acid-free, sulfur-free environments: flannel rolls, archival boxes. Avoid rubber bands, wool felt, and freshly finished wood drawers that off-gas sulfur.

Practical checklist

• Confirm metal: Sterling or numeric fineness present? Avoid EPNS/plate.
• Read the maker: Identify maker’s mark or retailer; note any date or patent marks.
• Inspect construction: Cast/applied finials, crisp die-struck bowl, fine engraving, sound solder.
• Assess condition: Look for bends, bowl wear, enamel chips, gilding loss, repairs.
• Weigh and measure: Record grams and length; note balance and thickness.
• Contextualize subject: Iconic site or fair? Part of a known series? Scarce locale?
• Document thoroughly: Clear photos, mark close-ups, and a written condition report.
• Compare and conclude: Use recent comparables for similar maker/subject/condition to set a value range.

FAQ

Q: How can I tell sterling from plated at a glance? A: Look for “STERLING” or recognized hallmarks indicating silver standard (e.g., lion passant; crescent moon and crown plus “800/835”). Plated items read “EPNS,” “A1,” or “SILVER PLATE.” Weight, seam visibility, and wear-through on high points can corroborate your read, but marks are the starting point.

Q: Should I polish a heavily tarnished souvenir spoon before selling? A: Light, careful cleaning is fine, but avoid aggressive polishing that rounds detail or removes gilding. Many collectors prefer an honest, even patina. If in doubt, leave the spoon as-found and note that it has not been polished.

Q: Do monograms hurt value? A: Period monograms generally do not harm—and can sometimes enhance—value when tastefully engraved and consistent with the spoon’s age. Removal or “erased” cartouches lower desirability. Presentation inscriptions tied to a fair or specific trip can be a plus.

Q: What if my spoon has no maker’s mark? A: Some retailer-only or regional pieces lack a clear maker stamp. In those cases, rely on silver standard marks, construction quality, and subject matter to gauge value. Absence of any silver standard typically signals plate; exceptions exist in continental pieces where marks have worn away—use magnification.

Q: Can I safely use antique sterling spoons? A: Yes, with care. Hand-wash only, avoid acidic foods on gilded surfaces, and never put them in a dishwasher. Routine gentle use does not harm sterling, but for enamelled or finely engraved pieces, display-only is often wiser to preserve condition.

By combining hallmark literacy, an eye for construction quality, and context-aware comparables, you can confidently identify and value a fine quality late 19th-century silver souvenir spoon—whether it commemorates the marvels of 1893 Chicago, a thunderous Niagara, or an alpine vista framed in enamel.