A Guide To Antique Medicine Bottles Identification

Antique medicine bottles turn up in attics, apothecary cabinets, and farm dumps, carrying stories of patent cures, pharmacists, and glassmaking innovation. Identifying them accurately requires a methodical look at how they were made and used. This guide distills the major clues—seams, pontils, color, shape, embossing, closures, and makers’ marks—and shows how to translate them into date ranges, authenticity judgments, and value assessments.

How Medicine Bottles Were Made (And Why It Matters)

Manufacturing method is the single best starting point for dating and identification. Each technique leaves diagnostic clues.

• Free-blown (pre-1840s, sometimes later): Formed by hand without a mold. Expect no mold seams, asymmetry, and a pronounced pontil scar on the base where the pontil rod detached. Pontil types include open/rough, sand pontil (sandy residue), iron pontil (gray/black residue), and glass-tipped pontil.

• Dip-mold and early molded (early to mid-1800s): The lower portion sits in a mold, the shoulder/neck formed by hand. Seams usually stop below the shoulder; bases may be smooth or pontiled. Surfaces may show “whittle marks,” a wavy texture from uneven mold cooling.

• Two- and three-piece molds (mid-1800s–1890s): Vertical seams up the body meet horizontal shoulder seams (three-piece) or end below the finish. The lip/finish is typically applied or tooled by hand. Embossing becomes common for brand and pharmacy names.

• Turn-mold (ca. 1870s–1900): Bottle rotated in the mold, erasing vertical seams. Clues include faint concentric striations and perfectly oval mouths. Embossing is rare on turn-molds because rotation would blur it.

• Machine-made (1903 onward; widespread by 1910s): The Owens Automatic Bottle Machine and successors created consistent surfaces with mold seams running through the finish and often a suction scar on the base (Owens). By the 1920s–30s, continuous-thread screw finishes and standardized graduations become common.

Finishes (lips) help refine date:

• Sheared and fire-polished: Top cut off, then fire-smoothed (common 1830s–1860s).
• Applied finish: A separate gather of glass tooled around the neck (1840s–1880s; persists later in some forms).
• Tooled finish: The neck glass is tooled into shape (ca. 1880s–1915).
• Machine-made continuous thread: Molded external screw thread (1910s onward, with earlier experimental use).

If seams run up the neck and across the top of the lip, assume machine-made (20th century). If seams stop below the lip, think earlier, with a tooled or applied finish.

Shapes, Colors, Embossing, and Closures

The “read” of a medicine bottle involves four variables: silhouette, glass color, words/symbols, and how it was sealed.

Shapes and what they suggest

• Panel or “rectangular with chamfered corners”: The classic patent medicine form, offering wide panels for embossing and labels (mid-1800s to early 1900s).
• Oval/Boston round: Round or oval section, cylindrical shoulder; used for fluids and tinctures (late 1800s onward).
• Square/figural bitters: Squared sides; some are elaborate figural forms (log cabin, fish, etc.)—typically 1850s–1890s for hand-blown examples.
• Poison bottles: Often cobalt or emerald, with ribbing, hobnails, or diamond patterns as tactile warnings. British poison bottles frequently say “NOT TO BE TAKEN”; American examples often say “POISON,” sometimes with skull-and-crossbones.
• Druggist/prescription bottles: Generally clear or aqua with a recessed “slug plate” panel embossed with the pharmacist’s name and town (1880s–1910s).

Color as a clue

• Aqua/light blue-green: Common in mid-19th century bottle glass due to iron impurities.
• Clear/colorless: Grows common late 19th–20th century with decolorizers. Manganese decolorizer (pre–ca. 1915) can turn amethyst under UV (“sun-purpled”). Selenium/arsenic decolorized glass (after ca. 1915) may show straw-yellow under intense sunlight/UV.
• Cobalt blue: Often poison, some medicinals (e.g., Vapo-cures); popular 1880s–1930s.
• Amber/brown: Used to protect light-sensitive contents (carbolic acid, iodine, etc.)—present from mid-19th century onward.
• Emerald/green shades: Found in poisons and some proprietary medicines.
• Milk glass (opaque white): Ointments, creams, and some homeopathic ware; more common in the early 20th century.

Embossing and what it tells you

• Brand names (e.g., sarsaparilla, bitters, specific “cures”): Bold front-panel embossing helps tie to proprietors and time frames. The term “cure” declines after 1906 due to the Pure Food and Drug Act.
• Pharmacist name and town: On druggist bottles; great for local provenance and dating via directories.
• Measurements: Graduations in ounces, drams, or minims appear on later 19th–20th century medicinal ware; more standardized on machine-made examples.
• Patent dates: Beware—patent dates can predate the bottle by years. Use them as “earliest possible” dates.
• Warnings: “POISON,” “NOT TO BE TAKEN,” ribbing/knurling serve as tactile cues—especially post-1870s.

Closures and stoppers

• Cork: Dominant 19th-century closure.
• Ground glass stopper: Common on chemist/apothecary and reagent bottles.
• External screw thread and metal caps: Increasingly common by the 1910s; clear sign of later manufacture on medicines.
• Unusual closures: Dropper tops, dose cups, tin spouts—often later and niche.

Quick Dating Timeline and Clues

Use this at-a-glance framework and confirm with multiple features.

• Pre-1860

  • Free-blown or dip-mold; pontil scars common.
  • Applied or sheared/fire-polished finishes.
  • Aqua, greens, and early ambers dominate.
  • Embossing exists but is less standardized.

• 1860–1885

  • Two- and three-piece molds common; whittle marks and applied/tooled lips.
  • Proprietary embossed medicines flourish; bitters variety expands.
  • Poison bottles adopt tactile warning textures.

• 1885–1905

  • Tooled finishes dominate; turn-mold bottles appear (seamless sides).
  • Embossing is sophisticated; druggist “slug plate” bottles peak.
  • Pure Food and Drug Act (1906) soon reduces hyperbolic “cure” language.

• 1906–1920s

  • Machine-made production expands; seams cross the finish.
  • Graduations and standardized forms; external screw threads appear broadly.
  • Maker’s marks on bases grow consistent; Owens suction scar may appear.

• 1930s–1940s

  • Full machine standardization; selenium/arsenic decolorized glass common.
  • ACL (applied color labels) appear on some containers (less typical for medicines).
  • Increasing use of milk glass and uniform pharmacy packaging.

Confirming features

• Seams: Their path over the lip is decisive for machine-made identification.
• Finish type: Applied vs. tooled indicates earlier vs. later hand work.
• Base: Pontil scars (early); suction scars (Owens era); maker’s marks (20th century).
• Embossing language/style: “Cure” and grandiose claims skew earlier; dosage accuracy language later.
• Color: Cobalt poison and amber for light-sensitive content are dependable category cues.

Makers’ Marks and Druggist Bottles

While many 19th-century medicine bottles lack maker’s marks, the ones that do offer reliable dating anchors. Common marks include:

• W.T. & Co. / Whitall Tatum & Co. (New Jersey): A prolific supplier of druggist ware from the mid-19th century into the 20th. Earlier marks may include “W.T. & Co.”; later forms add “U.S.A.”

• S B & G Co. (Streator Bottle & Glass Co., 1881–1905): Appears on bases; useful for late 19th-century medicines.

• L G Co. (various possibilities, e.g., Louisville Glass or Lyndeboro, context-dependent): Cross-check with style and region.

• Owens Bottle Co. (1911–1929): Marks vary; often an “O” in a square or similar, with mold numbers.

• Owens-Illinois (1929 onward): Diamond around an “I” (older), later “I in an O”; plant codes flank the mark. Consistent with 1930s+ machine-made ware.

• Hazel-Atlas (Anchor-H mark): More associated with food/household jars but appears on some pharmacy containers in the 1920s–40s.

Druggist/prescription bottles

• Typically clear or aqua, with a “slug plate” embossing the pharmacist’s name and town on a recessed panel. Most date 1880s–1910s.
• Local directories or pharmacy histories can narrow dates based on practitioner years.
• Value leans heavily on locality and completeness; scarce towns and unusual sizes/colors command premiums.

Rarity, Value, and Care

Value is a function of scarcity, desirability, and condition. For medicine bottles, consider:

Rarity and desirability drivers

• Embossed brand and category: Iconic bitters, quack cures, early poisons, and sarsaparillas are in steady demand.
• Color: Unusual greens, deep cobalt, and puce/odd hues can dramatically increase value over common aqua/clear.
• Form and figural appeal: Figural bitters and standout poison geometries are more sought-after than standard panels.
• Early manufacture: Pontiled bases and applied finishes generally elevate interest, especially with strong embossing.
• Labels and contents: Original labels, tax stamps, dose cups, or boxes multiply value—but only if well-preserved.
• Regional/local: Small-town druggist bottles can be highly collectible within local markets; uncommon towns command more.

Condition priorities

• Structure first: Cracks are fatal to value. Significant chips are next most harmful. Fleabites and light nibbling on the lip may be tolerated.
• Surface: Heavy stain, etching (“sickness”), and wear decrease value; honest “base wear” rings are acceptable.
• Clarity: Interior haze can often be improved professionally (tumbling), but novice attempts can cause damage.
• Integrity of labels: Never “improve” original labels; protect them from moisture and UV.

Care and handling

• Cleaning: Start with lukewarm water, mild dish soap, and a soft bottle brush. Avoid harsh chemicals or acids. Do not scrub labels. To remove mineral deposit rings, consider prolonged soak in distilled water with mild chelators; test first.
• Tumbling: A professional process using abrasives to polish out haze. While it can restore brilliance, it permanently alters the surface; disclose when selling.
• Storage: Keep out of direct sunlight (to avoid UV color shifts and label fade). Use padded shelving; avoid stacking heavy bottles on others.
• Safety: Assume residue can be hazardous. Do not open sealed contents; handle with gloves and store ventilated.

Authenticity pitfalls

• Artificial “sun-purpled”: Clear glass with manganese can turn amethyst under UV over decades. Modern irradiation creates deep purple quickly; look for overly uniform, intense color inconsistent with known examples.
• Reproductions: Some modern “whittled” bottles try to mimic hand-blown texture. Check the lip for machine characteristics, too-perfect symmetry, and anachronistic embossing fonts.
• Married pieces: Non-original stoppers or dose cups added later. Fit and wear should match.
• Fantasy embossing: Bottles with improbable brand/date combos or sensational claims in 20th-century machine-made forms.

Practical field checklist

• Does the seam cross the lip? If yes, likely 1910s+ machine-made.
• Is there a pontil scar? If yes, likely pre-1860s (with exceptions).
• Finish type: Applied (older) vs. tooled (later 19th c.) vs. molded screw (20th c.).
• Color cue: Cobalt/emerald poison; amber for light-sensitive medicinals; aqua common mid-19th c.
• Embossing: Brand/pharmacist? “Cure” suggests pre-1906; town names aid local dating.
• Base mark: Any maker’s mark or suction scar? Note codes and style.
• Closures: Cork vs. ground stopper vs. screw cap; match to era.
• Condition: Check for cracks, chips, stain; preserve labels/content.
• Sanity check: Do features agree? Beware of mixed signals (e.g., machine seams with fake pontil).

FAQ

What’s the fastest way to estimate the age of a medicine bottle?

• Start with mold seams. If seams continue over the lip, it’s likely 20th century. If seams stop below the lip and the finish is tooled, think 1880s–1915. If there’s a true pontil scar, probably pre-1860s. Then weigh color, embossing, and closures to refine.

Are “sun-purpled” bottles valuable?

• Usually not more valuable than their original clear form. Natural amethyst tint from long-term UV can occur in manganese-decolorized glass (pre–ca. 1915), but modern irradiation creates an unnatural deep purple; many collectors discount irradiated pieces.

How do I tell a poison bottle from a regular medicine?

• Look for tactile warnings: ribs, hobnails, diamond panels, and “POISON” or “NOT TO BE TAKEN” embossing. Cobalt blue and emerald green are common poison colors. Shapes can be hexagonal or with distinctive shoulders to stand out in the dark.

What are druggist/prescription bottles, and are they collectible?

• These are embossed with a pharmacist’s name and town, often clear or aqua, 1880s–1910s. They’re highly collectible locally; rarer towns, unusual sizes, or colored glass examples bring stronger prices.

Should I clean inside haze or leave it?

• Light, non-invasive cleaning is fine. For stubborn stain (“sickness”), professional tumbling may help but alters the surface; disclose if you sell. Never clean labels aggressively—preservation beats perfection.

By learning the vocabulary of seams, finishes, bases, colors, and embossing—and cross-checking every clue—you can confidently place a medicine bottle in its proper decade, separate authentic age from modern alterations, and recognize the forms and makers that drive collector interest and value.