Napoleon III Travel Vanity Set Value Guide (19th Century): Brass, Ebony & Silver

Travel vanity sets from the Napoleon III era (also called nécessaires de toilette) are luxury fitted cases made for grooming on the road. They typically combine a handsome wood case—often ebonized wood, ebony, or rosewood veneers—with brass corner mounts/inlay, and an assortment of glass bottles, jars, and tools. Many examples include silver (or silver-plated) bottle caps and grooming implements, which is where authentication matters most.

If your set was described as a ladies travelling box in the past, that phrasing is consistent with how these were marketed. Value depends less on the name and more on completeness (are all the fitted pieces present?) and metal content (are the mounts/caps solid silver, vermeil, or plated?), plus condition.

This guide focuses on what you can verify at home and what to photograph when you want a professional valuation.

Napoleon III refers to a French period (1852–1870) and a taste for rich materials (brass mounts, dark woods, and ornate hardware) that continued into the late 19th century. In the context of a travel vanity case, it usually means a French (or French-influenced) fitted box designed for toiletries and grooming items.

Many sets were made with an ebonized finish (blackened wood) rather than solid ebony. Others are veneered in rosewood. From a valuation standpoint, construction quality and originality matter more than the exact species name used in a listing.

• Exterior (all sides): corners, brass mounts, inlay patterns, and the lock plate
• Interior (open lid + trays): overall layout showing what fits where
• All bottles/jars: remove them and photograph as a group and individually
• Every cap/lid: close-ups of the underside where hallmarks often hide
• Key + hardware: key present, lock works, hinges tight
• Condition issues: veneer chips, cracks, missing dividers, replaced lining

1) Ebony vs ebonized vs rosewood

Listings often say ebony because the case is black. Many high-quality cases are ebonized: a finish applied to another hardwood. This is still period-correct and not automatically a negative. Look at worn edges: if you see a lighter wood under the black surface, that suggests an ebonized finish rather than solid ebony.

2) Brass inlay and mounts

Napoleon III pieces commonly use brass inlay (thin lines or geometric motifs) and brass corner mounts. Original mounts tend to show age-consistent wear, screw slots that look period (not modern Phillips), and patina in recesses. Bright, uniform, freshly polished brass across every part can indicate later replacement or aggressive cleaning.

3) Silver: hallmarks and a safe inspection approach

Silver bottle caps and grooming tools can be sterling, coin silver, or plated. The quickest path to confidence is hallmarks (and clear photos of them). Hallmarks are often tiny and appear on:

• Underside rim of bottle caps/lids
• Back of brush/comb mounts
• Collars around bottle necks
• Knife/razor handles and manicure tools

If you cannot find hallmarks, don’t assume the pieces are solid silver. Many luxury sets used silver plate over brass or base metal. A professional appraisal can still value the set strongly based on craftsmanship and completeness, but the metal claim needs proof.

Safety note: avoid acid tests on decorated caps until you’re sure they are not plated; testing can permanently scar the finish.

Here are the factors that most consistently move value up or down:

1. Completeness (biggest factor): missing bottles, trays, or tools often drop value sharply because replacements rarely match the original fit.
2. Silver content and confirmation: solid silver caps with readable hallmarks and matching monograms generally outperform unmarked or plated pieces.
3. Case quality: tight joinery, crisp veneer/inlay, and original lock/hardware matter. Warped lids and split panels are common value reducers.
4. Condition of glass: chips to stoppers and hairline cracks can be deal-breakers for some buyers.
5. Aesthetic and provenance: monograms, known makers, and documented ownership can push a set into a higher collector tier.

A prior private appraisal opinion for a fine-quality, late-19th-century Napoleon III vanity set placed value in the $4,500–$5,000 range. Treat that as a high-end anchor: many sets trade for less when incomplete, plated, or heavily worn, while exceptional examples with proven silver and full contents can approach or exceed that range depending on market.

• Exterior finish: light scuffs are normal; deep gouges, large veneer losses, or peeling ebonized finish reduce value.
• Inlay integrity: missing brass line segments are hard to repair invisibly.
• Hardware: hinges tight, lock working, key present, no stripped screws.
• Interior lining: clean and intact is best; replaced lining is acceptable if done neatly and disclosed.
• Glass: no cracks, minimal chips, stoppers fit properly.
• Metal: dents in caps, splits in collars, over-polishing, or green corrosion at seams.

When describing condition, separate aesthetic wear from structural problems. Light wear is often acceptable for a 19th-century travel box; structural instability is what scares off buyers.

If you want a professional valuation, try to capture these shots in natural window light (no flash glare on glass):

• Closed case: front, back, both sides, top
• Lock plate and key together (macro)
• Open case: full interior overview
• Each tray removed: show what sits underneath
• Bottles grouped (top view), then one photo per bottle/jar
• Underside of every cap showing hallmarks/monograms
• Any damage: chips, cracks, veneer losses, loose hinges
• A ruler or tape-measure photo of the case (length/width/height)

When in doubt, take more close-ups of anything that looks stamped, engraved, or numbered. Those markings are often the difference between a generic listing and a properly attributed set.

• Keep glass immobilized: if bottles are loose in their wells, pad with acid-free tissue to prevent chipping.
• Avoid humid storage: humidity can lift veneers and encourage brass corrosion (green deposits).
• Clean gently: dust with a soft brush; avoid soaking or spraying cleaners inside the case.
• Do not polish aggressively: heavy polish can remove plated finishes and soften sharp inlay details.

Common selling routes:

• Specialty auction house: best for high-quality sets with hallmarks, maker attribution, and full contents.
• Antique dealer (private sale): typically quicker; expect a lower net but less logistical work.
• Online marketplace: broad audience, but condition misunderstandings and shipping risk are higher.

What to avoid:

• Using sterling in the title without hallmark photos (buyers will challenge it).
• Shipping without interior immobilization. Bottles should be individually wrapped and packed so they cannot rattle.
• Aggressive polishing of silver and brass. Collectors usually prefer honest patina over newly brightened surfaces.

References

• Encyclopaedia Britannica: Napoleon III
• 925-1000.com: International silver hallmarks reference
• Victoria and Albert Museum: Napoleon III style overview