An Original Circa 1918 Patriotic Calendar C.V. Bardot

Patriotic advertising calendars from the First World War era are a compelling intersection of commercial design, propaganda, and popular art. If you have—or are considering—an original circa 1918 calendar signed “C.V. Bardot,” this guide shows you how to authenticate, describe, and appraise it like a professional, while avoiding the common pitfalls of later reprints.

Why 1918 Patriotic Calendars Matter

World War I reshaped American and European visual culture. In 1917–1918, images of flags, Soldiers and Sailors, Red Cross nurses, Liberty personifications, eagles, and Liberty Loan messaging flooded posters and promotional items. Businesses ordered stock images from lithographers and had their store imprint added below, distributing calendars as goodwill advertising to hang in homes and offices all year.

A circa 1918 patriotic calendar sits within:

• Advertising ephemera (merchant imprints, calendar pads, hangers)
• WWI home-front propaganda aesthetics
• Stone and offset lithography history
• Regional print and jobbing trade networks

Collectors value them for their artwork, intactness, and advertising relevance to local history. The best examples balance strong patriotic imagery, an appealing composition, crisp printing, original hangers, and a complete dated pad.

Decoding the “C.V. Bardot” Attribution

The signature “C.V. Bardot” is not among the widely documented marquee illustrators of the period (e.g., Flagg, Christy, Leyendecker). That doesn’t preclude authenticity—many competent commercial artists worked for trade lithographers under limited public recognition. Treat the name as an attribution to be investigated.

How to research the name responsibly:

• Examine the signature: Look for a hand-drawn signature as part of the lithographic art, typically in a lower corner. Compare letterforms across any other pieces you can find from the same source. Be wary of signatures printed in a different screening pattern from the rest of the image.
• Identify the printer or publisher: Check the lower margin or back for a lithographer’s credit (e.g., “Litho by…”), job numbers, or an Allied Printing Trades Council union “bug.” The printer can anchor the piece to a time and place even if the artist is obscure.
• Confirm business imprint locality: The advertiser’s overprint (e.g., “Compliments of Smith Hardware, Anytown”) helps you search local newspapers, trade journals, and city directories for mentions of calendar giveaways circa 1917–1919.
• Cross-verify the image: Some stock images were reused by multiple job printers with different signatures or cropped credits. Under magnification, a mismatched signature screening can indicate a later-added name.

If “C.V. Bardot” remains untraceable, appraise the calendar principally on image quality, subject, printer, condition, and completeness. Obscure attribution is common in calendar art and does not automatically diminish desirability if the piece presents well.

How to Authenticate and Date a 1918 Calendar

Focus on four components: image panel, calendar pad, hardware, and printing/paper.

Image panel:

• Printing method: Many WWI-era calendars were stone lithographed; early offset was also in use. Under 10x magnification, stone lithography shows solid color areas and layered, non-regular grain; offset halftone shows orderly dot patterns or rosettes. Mixed methods occurred, but a fully modern, tight CMYK screen can hint at later production.
• Palette and subject: Strong reds, blues, and khakis are typical. Imagery might feature flag drapery, Victory motifs, doughboys, sailors, allegorical Liberty, and Red Cross scenes.
• Margins and credits: Look for tiny line credits (artist, lithographer, job number) in margins. Trimming to fit frames can cut these off, but an untrimmed lower margin is ideal for documentation.

Calendar pad:

• Year and month style: Pads for 1918 typically show 12 tear-off sheets. Surviving originals often retain only partial pads; a fully intact 1918 pad is a premium feature.
• Typography: Period-appropriate typefaces, lead spacing, and day abbreviations are clues. Modern digital fonts or very bright white paper suggest a replacement pad.
• Holidays: U.S. calendars may note Armistice Day (Nov. 11 was established after 1918), Red Cross drives, or Liberty Loan dates, but these were not universal. Treat holiday listings as supportive, not definitive evidence.

Hardware and construction:

• Top hanger: Many calendars used a tin or gummed paper strip with an eyelet or string for hanging. A correct-aged metal strip with oxidation and period construction is a strong sign.
• Backing: Heavy cardstock or chipboard backers were common. Wartime materials often exhibit acid browning and brittleness consistent with age.

Paper and fluorescence:

• Paper tone: Slightly cream, buff, or toned, with even oxidation. Pure bright white often indicates modern stock.
• UV test: Many modern papers contain optical brighteners that fluoresce under UV. 1918 papers generally do not, or they fluoresce weakly due to age.

Dimensions and format:

• Common sizes: Image panels around 9 x 16 inches to 12 x 18 inches, with overall lengths up to ~24–30 inches including the pad. Variability is normal—measure precisely and record both image and overall dimensions.
• Overprint area: A blank space or light band along the lower margin of the image or above the pad was reserved for the merchant imprint.

Condition Factors and Conservation

Condition is the most powerful price lever for advertising calendars. Grade conservatively and describe precisely.

Typical issues:

• Toning and foxing: Brown age-toning and rust-colored foxing spots are expected. Light, uniform toning is acceptable; heavy staining reduces value.
• Tears, edge loss, and corner blunting: Top hanger areas often split. Small tears stabilized with archival mends are preferable to visible tape repairs.
• Creases and folds: Calendar panels were rarely folded at manufacture; center folds suggest later storage.
• Image abrasion: Surface scuffing or erasure damages litho inks.
• Pad completeness: Missing months or detached sheets lower value, but a clean, original pad elevates it.
• Trimming: Loss of margins or credits is a major detractor.

Conservation best practices:

• Surface clean gently with a soft brush. Avoid erasers on printed areas.
• Humidification and flattening should be performed by a paper conservator.
• Deacidification, washing, and mending: Leave to professionals. Non-archival tape and glue will do permanent harm.
• Housing: Store flat in acid-free folders or frame with UV-filtering glazing, 100% cotton rag mat, and reversible hinges. Avoid direct sunlight and damp environments.

Market Values and What Drives Price

Price is driven by image quality, artist recognition, completeness, and condition, with regional desirability for certain advertisers.

Typical ranges for WWI patriotic advertising calendars (U.S. market, recent norms):

• Unknown or lesser-known signatures (e.g., “C.V. Bardot”): $75–$250 in average, unrestored but intact condition; $200–$400 if the image is especially strong and the pad/hanger are original and complete.
• Recognized illustrators (Christy, Flagg, Leyendecker): $300–$1,200+, with premium examples exceeding that when pristine.
• Severe condition issues (losses, heavy staining, replaced pads): $30–$100, mostly for display value or restoration projects.

Premium features:

• Original 1918 pad complete and attached
• Printer/publisher credits present
• Crisp colors with minimal fading
• Desirable subjects: Liberty allegory, soldiers returning, naval themes, Red Cross nurse
• Documented local merchant connection (adds historical interest for regional collectors)

Market notes:

• Framing can help presentation but does not erase condition problems. Appraisers prefer to see the back and edges unframed when possible.
• Provenance, such as period photographs or a merchant ledger referencing calendar orders, helps storytelling but is uncommon.

Common Pitfalls and Reproductions

Not all “1918-style” calendars are period originals.

Watch for:

• Modern stock and sheen: Bright white, glossy image paper with modern dot screens often indicates a late reprint.
• Anachronisms: ZIP codes (post-1963), area codes printed with parentheses, or website addresses in the advertiser imprint are decisive indicators of a modern novelty.
• UPCs or modern recycling marks: These are not period features.
• Replacement pads: A contemporary blank or reprinted pad attached to an old image lowers value. That said, some period distributors replaced pads annually; you’ll need to judge whether the replacement is period-correct.
• Overly saturated inks: Aging tends to mellow color. Extremely saturated, uniform color without any surface wear can suggest modern printing.

Authentication aids:

• UV inspection for optical brighteners
• Loupe examination of the printing method
• Side lighting to reveal surface texture and original press impressions
• Smell is not reliable evidence; trust structural and printing clues instead

Quick Appraisal Checklist

• Confirm the year: Is there a genuine 1918 pad or other contemporaneous date evidence?
• Identify the printer: Look for lithographer credit, union bug, or job number.
• Examine printing: Stone litho or early offset under 10x magnification; avoid modern CMYK screens.
• Assess condition: Note toning, foxing, tears, trimming, and pad completeness.
• Verify hardware: Original hanger strip/eyelet or string? Period-appropriate backing?
• Evaluate imagery: Strong patriotic theme, composition, and color retention.
• Attribute signature: “C.V. Bardot” present and integrated into the litho? Consistent with overall screening?
• Document measurements: Image size and overall size, to the nearest 1/16 inch.
• Note advertiser imprint: Merchant name and location can add regional value.
• Photograph unframed: Front, back, margins, signature, and detailed flaws for appraisal records.

FAQ

Q: Is a calendar still valuable without the 1918 pad? A: Yes, but value drops. The image panel may still attract collectors, especially if the artwork is compelling and condition is strong. Expect a lower range than for complete examples.

Q: Should I remove old tape or backing myself? A: No. Many vintage tapes and backings can tear fibers or stain inks when removed. Consult a paper conservator for safe, reversible treatment.

Q: How can I tell if the signature was added later? A: View under magnification. If the signature’s dot pattern or ink density differs from the surrounding area, or it sits atop wear in an implausible way, be skeptical. Compare to known signatures from the same printer when possible.

Q: Does framing increase value? A: Quality archival framing protects and improves presentation, but appraisers often prefer to inspect unframed to verify edges and backs. Framing doesn’t erase condition problems and may obscure issues.

Q: What’s the best way to store it if I’m not displaying it? A: Store flat, interleaved with acid-free tissue in a buffered archival folder or box, in a cool, dry environment away from light and humidity. Avoid rolling.

With methodical inspection and careful documentation, an original circa 1918 patriotic calendar—whether attributed to “C.V. Bardot” or another commercial hand—can be confidently placed in its historical context, preserved for the long term, and appraised accurately for today’s market.