An Original Hand Made Painting By Lee Reynolds Circa Mid 20th Century

Mid-century “Lee Reynolds” paintings turn up frequently in estates, auctions, and interiors. They’re visually bold, often large, and carry the aura of an era that prized dramatic texture and metallic sheen. But what exactly is an “original hand made painting by Lee Reynolds,” how do you authenticate it, and what is it worth today? This guide outlines the history, tells you how to recognize the real thing, and gives collectors and appraisers a clear framework for evaluation.

Who Was Lee Reynolds? The Vanguard Studios Context

“Lee Reynolds” most often refers to Lee Reynolds Burr (1936–2017), an American artist and entrepreneur who founded Vanguard Studios in California in 1964. Vanguard wasn’t a print shop; it was a prolific art studio producing hand-painted decorative works for the middle- and upper-middle market—sold through furniture stores, department stores, and decorators. The studio employed numerous painters who executed designs under Reynolds’ direction. As a result, many works are genuinely hand-painted, yet not necessarily painted by Reynolds’ own hand.

Important distinctions:

• Lee Reynolds as a brand: Most pieces signed “Lee Reynolds” are studio works created by trained staff following house designs and palettes.
• Lee Reynolds Burr as a personal artist: When painting outside the studio context, Burr often signed “Lee Burr” or “Lee Reynolds Burr.” These works tend to be scarcer and command higher prices.
• Timeframe: The bulk of “Lee Reynolds” studio output dates from the mid-1960s through the 1970s (with some activity into the early 1980s), aligning with mid-century and postwar decor trends.

Understanding this structure helps set expectations: an “original” in this context is typically a hand-painted studio work rather than a one-of-one fine art piece by the founder himself.

What “Original Hand Made” Means For Lee Reynolds Works

In fine art, “original” usually implies a unique work created entirely by the artist. In the Vanguard Studios model, “original hand made” typically means:

• Hand-painted, not mechanically printed: Paintings were executed in acrylics and mixed media by studio artists.
• Design prototypes and repeats: A lead design would be produced repeatedly—by hand—so each painting is unique in brushwork and texture but part of a repeating design line.
• Signature as a mark of design authorship: “Lee Reynolds” on the front acts as a studio brand signature. It does not guarantee the founder personally painted it.
• Edition-like multiples: While not numbered editions, popular designs exist in substantial quantities, sometimes in varied colorways (e.g., gold/bronze vs. blue/green).

The phrase “circa mid 20th century” usually places these works in the 1964–1979 range, with occasional later pieces. Because many were intended for interior design schemes, their decorative impact—scale, color, and surface—was prioritized.

Identifying Characteristics: Signatures, Labels, Materials

Use these features to identify a typical mid-century Lee Reynolds/Vanguard Studios painting:

Signatures

• Most common: “Lee Reynolds” in paint (often black or dark brown) at the lower right, sometimes cursive, occasionally underlined.
• Variants: All-caps block or a more stylized hand. Slight variations arise because multiple studio artists applied the signature.
• Personal works: “Lee Burr” or “Lee Reynolds Burr” more likely denotes a work executed by Burr himself; these are comparatively rare among the decorative studio pieces.

Labels and Verso Markings

• Vanguard Studios label: Paper label or stamped mark on the back, often reading “Vanguard Studios” with a California address (commonly Van Nuys). Some show a zip code (post-1963, which helps with dating).
• Title/number codes: Short titles like “Seascape,” “City Scene,” or “Abstract” paired with a code. Handwritten grease pencil, typed stickers, or rubber stamps are typical.
• Country of production: Some components or work were completed in Mexico; you may see country notations or mixed materials.
• Hanging hardware: Original wire, screw eyes, or sawtooth hangers may be present. Retain and photograph them for appraisal records.

Materials and Techniques

• Paint: Acrylic with heavy modeling pastes to build impasto; palette knife work is common.
• Metallics: Bronze, gold, and copper metallic paints, foils, and leaf accents are prevalent, especially in abstract and skyline designs.
• Substrate: Stretched canvas, canvas-over-board, or Masonite/hardboard panels. Burlap-textured grounds appear on some pieces.
• Mixed media: Sand or grit added for texture; sgraffito (scratching through layers) to create linear elements; occasionally string or thread embedded in the paste.
• Palettes and imagery: Mid-century colors like bronze, copper, gold, avocado, turquoise, umber, and white/off-white. Subjects include harbors and sailboats, cityscapes, florals, and abstracts—geometric or gestural.

Frames

• Often original, period frames: Floater frames, gilt wood, driftwood finishes, or walnut with linen liners. Original framing can enhance value and helps corroborate era.

Scale

• Large formats were common: 24 x 48 in, 30 x 60 in, 36 x 48 in, and multi-panel triptychs. Size is a major value driver in the decorative market.

Condition, Conservation, and Dating Clues

Common Condition Issues

• Cracking and loss in textured areas: Modeling paste can become brittle; look for lifting edges and impact losses.
• Surface grime/nicotine: A yellowed film dulls metallics and whites. Avoid water on metallic paint; use a soft brush or a dry-cleaning sponge with caution.
• Metallic oxidation and tarnish: Coppery passages can darken or green; do not polish—this risks removing original media.
• Canvas slackness and corner dings: Large canvases may relax; professional re-tensioning on stretcher or controlled humidification may help.
• Frame wear: Chipped gilding, separated corners, and stained linen liners are typical. Original frames, even worn, often support value better than generic replacements.

Conservation Tips

• Test first: Any cleaning should start with a small, inconspicuous area; avoid solvents and water on metallic passages.
• Stabilize, don’t refinish: Consolidate lifting texture with a conservator-grade adhesive if necessary; avoid overpainting or “touching up” metallics.
• Professional help for serious issues: Creases, punctures, widespread cracking, or warping of panels call for a paintings conservator. Ensure treatment costs align with market value.

Dating Clues

• Labels with zip codes indicate post-1963 manufacture; earlier labels (less common) may lack them.
• Hardware and staples: Machine staples and modern wire are consistent with 1960s–1970s production.
• Paper aging and typography: Aged adhesive labels, typewritten tags, and period fonts can corroborate mid-century origin.
• Provenance: Department store or furniture showroom receipts, decorator invoices, or family records establishing a 1960s–70s purchase date support authenticity and dating.

Storage and Display

• Stable environment: Avoid attics, garages, high humidity, and direct sun. Temperature and RH swings exacerbate cracking and warping.
• Protective handling: Support the back when moving large pieces; don’t press on textured surfaces.

Market Values, Rarity, and Collecting Strategies

Current Market Overview

• Studio pieces signed “Lee Reynolds”: Commonly trade in the low to mid hundreds, with many transactions between roughly $150 and $600 depending on size, subject, and condition.
• Strong performers: Larger abstracts and striking cityscapes in excellent condition, preferably with original frames, can bring higher sums—often in the $600 to $1,500 range.
• Personal works by Burr (“Lee Burr” or “Lee Reynolds Burr”): Scarcer and more sought-after; values vary widely, sometimes entering several thousand dollars when convincingly attributable and comparably high in quality.
• Multiples and pairs: Diptychs/triptychs or matched pairs are desirable for interior design and can command a premium.

Value Drivers

• Scale: Bigger often equals better in this decorative category.
• Condition: Crisp metallics, intact texture, and original frame add value; major restoration needs diminish it.
• Subject and palette: Dramatic abstracts, luminous skylines, and balanced mid-century colorways (bronze/gold, turquoise/white) tend to appeal more than muted or less resolved compositions.
• Provenance and documentation: Original purchase records, labels, and period photographs of the work in situ can bolster confidence and price.
• Regional taste: Coastal and urban subjects may sell particularly well in metropolitan markets; mid-century modern interiors are a natural fit.

Selling and Buying Tips

• Pricing: Reference recent comparable sales for the same subject type, size, and condition. Adjust for restoration needs and frame originality.
• Venue choice: Designer-oriented galleries, mid-century dealers, and curated online auctions often outperform generalist venues for strong examples.
• Shipping: Large, textured works require careful packing. Protect textured surfaces with non-abrasive interleaving; avoid plastic directly on paint.

Quick Appraisal Checklist

• Identify the signature: “Lee Reynolds” for studio work; “Lee Burr”/“Lee Reynolds Burr” may indicate personal authorship.
• Photograph the verso: Capture labels, stamps, titles, codes, and hardware clearly.
• Measure accurately: Height, width, and depth including frame; note if it’s a pair or multi-panel piece.
• Assess materials: Acrylic with heavy texture and metallic accents is typical for studio works.
• Evaluate condition: Look for cracking, losses, grime, and frame integrity; note any previous restorations.
• Confirm framing: Original mid-century frames with linen liners or floaters support authenticity and appeal.
• Date clues: Zip-coded labels, period hardware, and paper aging suggest 1960s–1970s origin.
• Compare comps: Look for sales of similar subject/size/palette in similar condition to gauge range.
• Weigh restoration costs: Ensure conservation expense aligns with likely resale or insurance value.
• Document everything: Keep images, measurements, and notes together for appraisals or sale listings.

FAQ

Q: Is a “Lee Reynolds” painting a print or a reproduction? A: The vast majority are hand-painted studio works, not mechanical prints. They are decorative originals executed in multiples by studio artists under the Vanguard Studios brand.

Q: How can I tell if Lee Reynolds Burr painted my piece himself? A: A signature reading “Lee Burr” or “Lee Reynolds Burr,” combined with higher painterly quality and strong provenance, points toward personal authorship. Because signatures can be ambiguous, expert evaluation and documented provenance are best.

Q: Should I restore a damaged Lee Reynolds painting? A: Minor dry cleaning and frame stabilization are often worthwhile. For cracking, losses, or structural issues, consult a conservator and compare treatment costs to the painting’s likely market value. Over-restoration can reduce appeal.

Q: Does replacing the original frame hurt value? A: Often yes. Period frames complement the work and support authenticity. If a replacement is necessary, retain the original frame if possible and disclose the change.

Q: What is the typical value range? A: Many studio pieces trade roughly in the $150–$600 range, with larger, striking examples in excellent condition reaching higher. Works convincingly by Burr himself can surpass these figures. Always anchor estimates in recent comparable sales for similar size, subject, and condition.

By understanding the studio’s history, recognizing telltale materials and markings, and evaluating condition with an appraiser’s eye, you can confidently identify and value an original hand-painted mid-century “Lee Reynolds” work—whether you aim to collect, insure, or sell.