December 17, 2025

Antique Cast Iron Tub Value Guide (2025)

Estimate cast iron bathtub prices using condition checklists, restoration math, and recent sold comps for clawfoot, slipper, and roll-rim tubs.

By Appraisily TeamLast updated December 17, 2025

Antique cast iron bathtubs (especially clawfoot and roll-rim models) sit at the crossroads of home restoration and collecting. Their value is driven by style, size, feet/hardware, and enamel condition—and, unlike small antiques, the selling channel (local pickup vs. freight) can move the final number by hundreds of dollars.

This guide gives you a practical way to price your tub in 2025: identify what you have, grade condition honestly, factor restoration correctly, and sanity-check your estimate against recent sold comps.

Start with a quick “ID sheet” that you keep with your photos. For buyers (and appraisers) the goal is to answer: What style is it, what size is it, and what’s original?

Style checklist

• Clawfoot: four separate feet; common for late 1800s–early 1900s bathrooms.
• Slipper: one end higher for reclining; often a premium style.
• Double-ended roll rim: symmetrical ends; frequently a center drain.
• Skirted / pedestal base: “built-in” look; common in some early 20th c. installs.

Measurements that matter

Measure overall length (common sizes are roughly 54", 60", 66", and 72"), width, and the distance from drain center to each end. Oversized tubs cost more to move, but they also attract buyers restoring larger historic baths.

Feet and hardware

Feet style can be a major premium driver because it’s what visitors see first. Ball-and-claw, lion paw, and ornate cast feet often sell faster than plain feet. Original drain/overflow hardware is a plus, but even complete replacement sets rarely add dollar-for-dollar value if the enamel is failing.

Maker marks (don’t skip the underside)

Many tubs have raised lettering or casting codes underneath. If you can find a maker (or even a pattern number), it helps you compare the right comps and answer buyer questions quickly.

Collectors may love patina, but most tub buyers are restoring a functional bathroom. That means the porcelain enamel surface is the value engine. Use this quick grading approach:

• Excellent: glossy enamel, only light staining, no chips at rim/drain.
• Good: small chips or dulling; rust is contained and easily stabilized.
• Fair: multiple chips, rust creep, noticeable roughness; needs refinish soon.
• Poor: heavy rust, large missing enamel areas, deep pitting; project-only.

Also check the mechanical areas buyers worry about: the drain, overflow, and any extra holes drilled for modern fixtures. A clean, intact drain/overflow area reads as “maintained,” even if you plan to replace hardware.

Many sellers assume a refinish automatically adds thousands. In practice, it depends on who did the work, how it was prepped, and whether the finish photographs cleanly. Buyers also discount unknown DIY coatings because failure (peeling/chipping) is expensive to fix.

A practical way to estimate value is:

• Start with a realistic “as-is” number based on style + size.
• Add a premium for intact feet and a clean, marketable look.
• If refinished, add only the portion of cost you can prove and the market will reward (often a fraction, not 100%).

Example: if an as-is clawfoot tub would sell locally for $500, and a professional refinish costs $700, the market may support a list price of $1,000–$1,500 depending on presentation and demand—not necessarily $1,200 “because $500 + $700.”

Cast iron tubs are heavy and awkward. Because shipping is expensive, the same tub can sell for very different prices depending on how you list it:

• Local pickup marketplaces: fastest for project tubs; expect bargain-hunting behavior.
• Architectural salvage dealers: often pay less than retail but can move inventory quickly.
• Online marketplaces with freight: can reach premium buyers, but freight quotes and crating must be handled professionally.