Autograph collecting is one of the most faked corners of memorabilia. Use this checklist to triage the ink/strokes, the item context, and the documentation (COA + provenance) before you buy, insure, donate, or sell.
Two-step intake
Share your autograph details with an expert today
Send photos of the full item, signature close-ups, and any paperwork so we can route your case to the right memorabilia specialist. Expect a written quote and next steps in under 24 hours.
We store your intake securely, sync it with the Appraisily CRM, and redirect you to checkout to reserve your slot.
Turn this research into action
Get a price-ready appraisal for your item
Answer three quick questions and we route you to the right specialist. Certified reports delivered in 24 hours on average.
- 15k+collectors served
- 24havg delivery
- A+BBB rating
Secure checkout · Full refund if we can’t help
Skip questions — start appraisal nowThe 10-minute autograph authentication checklist
Before you pay for an opinion (or pay more for a “certified” piece), do this quick triage:
- Item first. Confirm the signature is on the correct surface (not a reprint or swapped panel).
- Raking light. Look for indentation and pressure patterns.
- Ink behavior. Zoom for feathering, pooling, skips, and marker sheen.
- Rhythm. Natural signatures show confident speed changes; copied ones hesitate.
- Materials vs story. Pen/marker type and substrate should fit the claimed era.
- Paperwork test. COA must be traceable; provenance must be specific and consistent.
COA vs. provenance (and what each one can actually prove)
Collectors often treat “COA” and “provenance” as interchangeable. They’re not: a COA is a claim; provenance is the chain-of-custody evidence. The best items have both.
| Document type | Strong when… | Weak when… |
|---|---|---|
| COA (certificate) | Issuer is identifiable, certificate matches the item, and there’s a verification record. | Generic language, no item-specific details, no way to verify, or the issuer is unclear. |
| Letter/LOA | Includes item description and specific reasoning (ink, comparison points, context). | Only says “authentic” without describing what was examined. |
| Chain of custody | Ownership history is consistent (estate docs, invoices, reputable dealers). | Vague stories, missing dates/places, or sudden “found in attic” leaps. |
Autograph red flags and common scams
These are the patterns that show up again and again in bad memorabilia listings:
- “COA included” but no verification path. If you can’t verify it, treat it as packaging.
- Too-perfect inventory. Many “fresh” autographs with identical placement/pen tone is suspicious.
- Autopen patterns. Repeated identical stroke paths and mechanical starts/stops.
- Slowly drawn signatures. Hesitation/tremor can signal copying.
- Wrong medium for the era. Marker type, substrate, and aging don’t match the story.
Decision tree: when to walk away vs. pay for a real opinion
Use this triage flow before you pay for authentication — it helps you avoid weak paperwork and stacked red flags.
Photo checklist: what to photograph for an authentication review
Most authentication failures happen because the reviewer can’t see the right things. Use this photo checklist (no filters; avoid heavy HDR):
- Full item front/back (show edges so it’s clearly one piece).
- Signature close-up straight-on + in raking light.
- Two macro crops showing starts/ends of strokes.
- Any COA/LOA full page + serial/hologram close-up + verification record.
- Context evidence (tickets, photos, invoices, letters).
Real market comps: what strong authentication can do to price
Authentication isn’t only about “real vs fake” — it changes liquidity. Buyers pay more when documentation reduces risk. Here are three recent auction results from Appraisily’s internal auction results database.
Handling and preservation (don’t destroy evidence)
- Avoid cleaning the signature area. Solvents can lift ink; abrasion can change surface sheen.
- Document now. Photograph the item + paperwork and store a written note of where/when you obtained it.
FAQ
Is a COA enough to authenticate an autograph?
Sometimes — but only when the COA is traceable (issuer identity, matching database entry, item description that clearly matches your piece). A generic certificate without verification is not the same as an opinion with supporting reasoning.
How do you spot an autopen signature?
Autopen detection is largely about repeatability. If you can find multiple examples that match stroke-for-stroke (or if your seller offers many “different” items with identical signatures), that’s a major red flag. High-resolution overlays can be surprisingly revealing.
Should I clean a signed item before authentication?
No — not without expert guidance. Cleaning can remove ink, smear marker, or erase subtle indentation evidence that helps reviewers. Keep it as-is and provide clear photos.
Search variations collectors ask
Readers often Google:
- is a COA enough to authenticate an autograph
- how to tell if a signed photo is a preprint
- how to spot autopen signatures at home
- autograph authentication checklist for ebay purchases
- difference between provenance and certificate of authenticity
- what photos to take for autograph authentication
- should I authenticate an autograph before selling
- how to verify a hologram sticker on a COA
- how to authenticate a signed jersey with no paperwork
Each question is answered in the guide above.
References & data sources
- Appraisily internal auction results database (valuer-agent), comps downloaded to
/mnt/srv-storage/storage/public/articles/autograph-authentication-guide-coa-provenance-red-flags/auctions/(accessed 2026-01-03). - General handling guidance: avoid solvents/abrasion near signatures; keep paper/photos in archival-safe storage.