Binnacle Time Table & Compass from the USS Surfbird

A ship’s binnacle is the housing that protects the ship’s magnetic compass on the bridge. When a binnacle is paired with an original gimbal-mounted compass and has a documented Navy connection, it becomes both a functional navigation instrument and a compelling piece of naval history.

This guide explains how to appraise a “binnacle time table & compass” associated with the USS Surfbird (AM-383): what to photograph, how to spot authenticity clues, which condition issues matter most, and how to choose the right value range depending on whether you’re selling or insuring.

Appraisal value range for a USS Surfbird binnacle compass

A binnacle compass is valued as a system. Prices move most when (1) the compass is complete and working, (2) the binnacle case is original and presentable, and (3) you can prove a meaningful naval connection (ship name, maker plate, or documentation).

These are market-facing ranges (what a willing buyer may pay). For insurance replacement, an appraiser may use a higher figure that reflects sourcing a comparable example at retail.

What is a “binnacle time table & compass”?

In everyday collecting, people use “binnacle” to mean the whole navigation station: the wood or metal housing (often with a hood), the gimbal-mounted compass bowl inside, and related bridge components like lamps, compensators, and mounting hardware.

The phrase “time table” sometimes appears as shorthand for bridge reference tables, log boards, or timekeeping fixtures mounted near navigation equipment. In practice, collectors value the set based on what is physically present (compass + binnacle + accessories) and what can be proven (maker + ship connection).

Historical context: USS Surfbird (AM-383)

USS Surfbird (AM-383) was an Auk-class minesweeper built for the U.S. Navy during World War II. Bridge equipment from working ships is collectible because it combines industrial craftsmanship (machined brass, thick glass, heavy wood or cast housings) with a clear story of use.

For appraisal purposes, the Surfbird connection matters most when it can be tied directly to the object via a plate, stencil, or accompanying documentation. “Named ship” equipment can outperform generic maritime décor because buyers are often naval collectors, veterans, museums, or ship-history enthusiasts.

Authentication checklist: what to photograph (and what to look for)

To authenticate a Navy-era binnacle compass, think like a buyer: you’re proving identity (what it is), maker (who built it), and integrity (is it original vs. assembled from parts).

• Maker plate(s): compass manufacturer, serial number, model designation, and any military contract markings.
• Binnacle housing details: construction style, hood/doors, glass, hinges, and evidence of shipboard mounting.
• Compass card + lubber line: legibility and whether the card sits level and stable.
• Gimbals + lock: the bowl should swing smoothly; locks should engage without bending parts.
• Compensators: corrector hardware matters (presence counts even if you don’t know how to adjust it).
• Illumination: lamp/fixture presence, wiring condition (don’t power unknown wiring without inspection).
• Any ship ID: tags, stencils, plates, or paperwork referencing USS Surfbird or AM-383.

Condition issues that change value the most

Naval navigation instruments were built to work, not just to display. Buyers discount heavily for defects that are difficult or risky to repair.

• Compass fluid leaks or cloudiness: many compasses are fluid-filled; leakage can stain the card and corrode internals.
• Compass card problems: warped, bubbled, or detached cards reduce both function and visual appeal.
• Gimbal wear: bent rings, seized pivots, or missing lock mechanisms are expensive to correct.
• Binnacle wood condition: water damage, delamination, or missing hood/doors usually costs more than expected.
• Brass corrosion/pitting: patina is fine; deep pitting, stress cracks, or salt damage is not.
• Missing accessories: lamps, correctors/compensators, and mounting hardware all contribute to completeness.

Restoration can help, but “over-cleaning” can hurt. Avoid aggressive polishing that erases maker marks or turns an aged surface into a bright, modern shine.

Documentation & provenance: how to support the USS Surfbird link

The strongest provenance is a physical identifier on the object (a ship tag or plate). If you don’t have that, you can still strengthen your appraisal by organizing a simple provenance package:

1. Full photo set: overall front/side/back, interior, and every plate/marking close-up.
2. Measurements: overall binnacle dimensions and compass bowl diameter.
3. Acquisition story: surplus sale paperwork, veteran’s estate note, or a dated photograph of it in situ.
4. Ship-history context: useful for narrative value, but not a substitute for physical tags.

Provenance is also what protects you when selling: it helps buyers trust that you aren’t listing a “Navy” compass that is actually a decorative reproduction.

Auction comparables (comps): what similar navigation instruments have sold for

The closest comps for a ship-linked WWII binnacle are often scarce, so appraisers triangulate value using broader nautical/navigation instrument results (ship compasses, gimbal compasses, and high-end steering compasses). Here are three datapoints from the local auction dataset:

These aren’t perfect one-to-one matches for a WWII U.S. Navy binnacle assembly, but they do show the spectrum: from modest “gimbal compass” pieces to high-end, historically important steering compasses. A complete, display-worthy, ship-linked binnacle set tends to sit toward the upper end of maritime décor—especially when it has a named-ship story.

How to sell a ship’s binnacle compass (without losing money on shipping)

These are heavy, fragile, and expensive to pack. The best selling path depends on your audience and how strong your provenance is:

• Highest buyer confidence: sell with an appraisal report and clear close-ups of plates/serials.
• Fastest local sale: Marketplace/local pickup (but you’ll often trade time for a lower price).
• Best collector reach: maritime antiques dealers, nautical instrument specialists, and naval collector groups.
• Best for ship-history buyers: list the ship details (AM-383) and service era in the first paragraph.

If you ship, immobilize moving parts, protect glass with rigid padding, and double-box with dense foam. Many low-price outcomes happen because sellers can’t safely pack the item and buyers factor that risk into their offers.