Button Up Discover The Joys Of Antique Button Hunting

Antique buttons have everything a collector or appraiser loves: compact artistry, a vast range of materials and techniques, clear historical touchpoints, and a market rich in affordable finds and rare trophies. Whether you’re sorting a sewing-box hoard or evaluating a curated tray at a show, understanding how buttons were made, worn, and marked will turn a pleasant hunt into confident connoisseurship.

Why Buttons Captivate Collectors and Appraisers

• A miniature history of fashion and industry: Buttons reflect shifts in technology from hand-carved bone to hard rubber and phenolic plastics, as well as changing aesthetics across Georgian, Victorian, Edwardian, Art Nouveau, and Art Deco eras.
• Manageable and portable: You can study hundreds with minimal space, and their small cost-of-entry makes learning-by-buying feasible.
• Deep taxonomy: Standardized classifications and backmarks enable precise identification, dating, and valuation—ideal for appraisal-minded enthusiasts.
• Visual storytelling: Pictorials, livery crests, military insignia, and commemoratives transform utilitarian fasteners into miniature archives.

Identification: Materials, Construction, and Backmarks

The fastest path to accurate dating and value is learning how buttons were made and marked. Work from material and construction first, then refine with marks and motifs.

Materials and telltale traits:

• Metal: Brass, copper, silver, steel. Early “one-piece” military/livery buttons are typically convex and solid; later “two-piece” have a stamped shell with a separate back plate. Gilt surfaces often show warm patina rather than bright polish; watch for tinned iron backs that rust.
• Enamel: Enamel on copper or brass. Techniques include cloisonné (wire cells), champlevé (recessed areas), and painted enamel. Check for stable, glossy surfaces; pitting or exposed metal lowers value.
• Porcelain/Ceramic: Including Satsuma (fine crackle glaze with gilded decoration), china pictorials, and lusterware. Look for crisp transfers or hand-painted detail, intact self-shanks or embedded metal shanks.
• Glass: Clear, colored, black glass (Victorian), jet and “jet-like” (glass imitations of Whitby jet), and pressed or molded designs. Glass is cool to touch, heavier for its size, and makes a higher “ring” than plastic when tapped lightly.
• Mother-of-pearl (MOP) and shell: Iridescence with natural striations; drilled sew-through holes often show slight chipping. Larger carved MOP buttons can be finely engraved; avoid conflating with plastic imitations.
• Bone and horn: Fine grain (bone shows tiny pores), warm matte sheen. Horn can be laminated; look at edges for layers.
• Hard rubber (vulcanite) and gutta-percha: Often marked with “Goodyear’s Patele” or patent references around 1851. Matte black/brown, thread-mold seams may be visible under magnification.
• Early plastics: Celluloid (nitrate) is lightweight, can be translucent, sometimes laminated with fabric or metal; it is chemically unstable and can off-gas—store separately. Bakelite/phenolics are denser; friction can release a phenolic odor; Simichrome on a cotton swab may turn yellow when rubbed on an inconspicuous area (test sparingly).
• Textile and thread: Dorset thread-wrapped rings, passementerie, crochet; fragile and sensitive to moisture and pests.

Construction and shanks:

• Sew-through: Two or four holes (typical for MOP, bone, some glass and porcelain).
• Self-shank: Integral nub on glass or ceramic.
• Metal loop shank: Soldered or embedded wire loop.
• One-piece vs two-piece metal: Single piece domes vs shell over back plate; two-piece often show a crimped rim.
• Size measurement: Buttons are measured in lignes (or “lines”); 40 ligne equals 1 inch. Dress buttons range widely; coats and livery can exceed 50L.

Backmarks, patents, and makers:

• Scovill, Waterbury Button Company, and Horstmann are common on U.S. military and civilian buttons (19th–20th centuries).
• “Paris,” “Depose,” and quality marks like “Extra Rich,” “Extra Quality,” and “Gilt” can indicate European origin or marketing grades.
• Goodyear hard rubber marks appear with patent dates in the 1850s.
• Country-of-origin marks like “Made in Czechoslovakia” help place glass buttons to the early 20th century.
• Backmarks can narrow date ranges, confirm authenticity, and add value.

Dating and Styles by Era

Knowing era-typical materials and motifs speeds up evaluation and helps avoid anachronistic pairings:

• Georgian to Early Victorian (late 18th–mid 19th c.):

  • Materials: Silvered brass, cut steel, bone, thread-wrapped Dorsets, early porcelain.
  • Styles: Livery buttons with heraldic crests, military one-piece domes, cut steel sparkle on evening wear.
  • Notes: Early sew-through bone and MOP tend to be smaller and plainer.

• Mid to Late Victorian (circa 1850–1900):

  • Materials: Black glass, jet and jet-like glass, gutta-percha, hard rubber, MOP, brass with pictorials, enamel.
  • Styles: Mourning buttons, sentimental motifs, floral and naturalistic designs, scenic pictorials.
  • Notes: Celluloid appears in the late century—beware deterioration.

• Edwardian and Art Nouveau (circa 1895–1915):

  • Materials: Enamel with flowing designs, carved MOP, glass with iridescent finishes.
  • Styles: Sinuous organic lines, ladies’ heads, dragonflies, lilies; refined gilt metal.
  • Notes: Button sizes often moderate; elegance over mass.

• Art Deco (circa 1920–1940):

  • Materials: Bakelite and other phenolics, laminated plastics, Czech glass with strong colors, metals with geometric patterns.
  • Styles: Bold geometry, color blocking, architectural motifs, rhinestones/marcasites used sparingly but with precision.
  • Notes: Country-of-origin marks help—Czechoslovak glass, French deco metals, American Bakelite.

• Mid-century to Studio Era (post-1940s):

  • Materials: Phenolics continue, aluminum, modern enamels; later studio buttons by contemporary artists.
  • Styles: Novelty and figural; not strictly “antique” but often collectible and sometimes misrepresented. Good to differentiate in appraisals.

Valuation: What Drives Price and Demand

Antique button prices are highly sensitive to detail. Appraisers and collectors should weigh:

• Rarity and subject matter:
  • Pictorials with unusual scenes (e.g., mythological, historic events), finely painted Satsuma, high-art enamel, and rare regimental or livery crests command premiums.
• Maker and marks:
  • Clear backmarks from known makers, patent dates, country marks, and quality stamps add confidence and value.
• Materials and technique quality:
  • True cloisonné with intact cells, deep-cut steel with full luster, intricately carved MOP, superior black glass with sharp molds are more valuable.
• Condition:
  • Chips, cracks, enamel losses, corrosion (verdigris), paint wear, and replaced shanks diminish value.
  • Natural patina is generally preferable to aggressive polishing.
• Size and set status:
  • Larger “portrait” or coat-size buttons often bring more. Complete matched sets, especially on original cards, are notably more valuable than singles.
• Authenticity and originality:
  • Beware modern copies of military and livery buttons; crisp but context-inconsistent marks, incorrect back construction, or modern finishes are red flags.
• Market context:
  • Common MOP and plastic novelty buttons may sell for a few dollars or less; choice Victorian pictorials, Satsuma, fine enamel, or rare military can range from $50 to several hundred each; exceptional pieces exceed that.

Quick pricing benchmarks (always condition-dependent):

• Common MOP, bone, and black glass: $1–$10.
• Good pictorial brass or enamel: $20–$150.
• Satsuma, high-art enamel, rare military/livery: $100–$500+.
• Studio art buttons (not antique but collectible): $30–$200+ depending on artist.

Where to Hunt and How to Buy Smart

Great buttons hide in humble places—knitting baskets, jars on workshop shelves, estate sale sewing rooms, and tins at flea markets. They also appear at specialized shows, club meetings, and auction lots.

Strategy tips:

• Buy the jar—but sort with a plan. Mixed jars often contain “worth the price” sleepers: hard rubber with patent marks, early MOP carvings, or single high-art pieces.
• At shows, bring a loupe and magnet. Examine shanks, look for crimped two-piece construction, check for maker marks. A small magnet will spot steel backs under brass shells.
• Don’t overlook uniform and livery trays. Many collectors pass on them, but marked examples with specific units or crests can outperform ornate civilian buttons.
• Provenance matters. Buttons on original cards, documented as part of a known collection, or sourced from a uniform with verifiable history will appraise better.

Ethics and legal notes:

• Ivory and tortoiseshell: Many jurisdictions restrict sale and shipment, regardless of age. Seek documentation and know local regulations before buying or selling.
• Feathers and wildlife materials: Victorian buttons incorporating bird parts may be restricted by wildlife protection laws.
• Celluloid safety: Celluloid can off-gas and damage nearby items—store separately and ventilated.
• Militaría sensitivities: Certain insignia may carry legal or ethical considerations; research before listing or exporting.

Care, Storage, and Conservation

Good stewardship preserves value and beauty:

• Storage materials:
  • Use acid-free cards, inert trays, and non-PVC sleeves. Polyester, polyethylene, or polypropylene are safer plastics.
  • Separate celluloid from other materials to prevent cross-contamination.
  • Keep silica gel in cases to maintain moderate humidity; avoid high heat and direct sun.
• Mounting:
  • If buttons are on original cards, consider leaving them undisturbed for value—but interleave with acid-free tissue or house card and button in archival sleeves.
  • For loose buttons, mount through acid-free card using inert thread, or store in labeled compartments with minimal movement.
• Cleaning:
  • Dry methods first: soft brush, air blower, microfiber cloth. Avoid soaking.
  • Metals: Do not over-polish; preserve patina. Gently lift verdigris mechanically with a wooden toothpick; avoid acidic dips.
  • Enamel and painted surfaces: Dust only. No solvents or polishes.
  • Textile/thread buttons: Keep dry; avoid pest attractants; vacuum gently through a screen if necessary.
• Monitoring:
  • Check periodically for corrosion, off-gassing (vinegar or camphor-like odors), or adhesive failures. Isolate problem pieces.

Practical Field Checklist

• Magnification (10x loupe) and a small magnet.
• Measure in lignes: note size (40L = 1 inch).
• Identify material quickly: glass vs plastic (weight, sound), MOP vs plastic (iridescence, drilled edges), metal type.
• Check construction: one-piece vs two-piece, type of shank, self-shank integrity.
• Scan backmarks: maker, country, patent dates, quality marks.
• Assess condition: chips, cracks, enamel loss, verdigris, replaced shanks.
• Look for sets and original cards; confirm uniformity.
• Isolate and label celluloid; store separately.
• Note subject matter and era style cues (Victorian pictorial, Art Nouveau lines, Deco geometry).
• Record provenance immediately: source, price, context.
• Price reality check: compare to similar pieces in your reference notes before committing.
• Legal materials check: ivory, tortoiseshell, wildlife—pause and research before purchase or sale.

Short FAQ

Q: How can I quickly tell glass from plastic in the field? A: Weight, temperature, and sound. Glass feels cooler and heavier for its size and “rings” when lightly tapped; plastic feels warmer and duller. A loupe reveals mold seams and flow lines in plastics; glass edges are crisper.

Q: Are reproduction military and livery buttons common? A: Yes. Watch back construction, patina, and marks. Many repros have anachronistic backmarks, modern fonts, or incorrect two-piece construction. Compare known originals’ backs and shanks; suspiciously pristine gilt with no age to the back is a red flag.

Q: Should I clean verdigris off brass buttons? A: Carefully, and minimally. Mechanical removal with a wooden toothpick and soft brush is safest. Avoid acids and aggressive polishes, which can strip gilt and reduce value. After cleaning, stabilize storage conditions to prevent recurrence.

Q: What’s the safest way to test for Bakelite? A: Friction and odor are non-invasive: rub the piece briskly to generate warmth—phenolic plastics often emit a formaldehyde-like scent. If you use Simichrome, test sparingly on an inconspicuous area and neutralize residue; avoid on painted surfaces.

Q: Is it better to keep buttons on their original cards? A: Usually yes for value and provenance, provided you mitigate acidity with archival sleeves or interleaving. If the card is actively damaging the buttons (rust, adhesive failure), consult a conservator and document any changes.

By training your eye for materials, construction, and marks—and by handling buttons with conservator-level care—you’ll transform casual finds into well-supported identifications and defensible appraisals. Few collecting fields offer as much history per square inch as antique buttons; once you “button up” your knowledge, the hunt becomes even more rewarding.