Cat Goddess Of Ancient Egypt Art Deco Figurine From Circa Mid 20th Century

The sleek silhouette of a cat goddess—often read as Bastet—was a natural fit for Art Deco’s love of distilled line, stylized geometry, and exotic motifs. By the mid-20th century, the Deco idiom lived on in revivals and carryover stock, spawning a spectrum of figurines from fine bronzes on marble bases to affordable spelter and ceramic versions for the growing postwar decorative market. This guide explains how to identify, date, evaluate, and care for a “Cat Goddess of Ancient Egypt” Art Deco figurine from circa mid-century, with practical appraisal pointers and market context.

Origins and Context: Egyptian Revival Meets Art Deco

• The spark: The 1922 discovery of Tutankhamun’s tomb ignited an Egyptian Revival across fashion, architecture, and the decorative arts. Art Deco designers embraced lotus motifs, obelisks, scarabs, and feline deities.
• Why a cat: Bastet, the protective cat-headed goddess, symbolized grace and domestic guardianship—attributes that translated neatly into a streamlined Deco cat on a geometric base.
• Mid-century continuity: While the purest Art Deco period is the 1920s–1930s, production didn’t stop there. After WWII, workshops and factories continued to make Deco-styled pieces. By the 1940s–1960s, you find:
  • Leftover prewar stock assembling with available hardware.
  • Postwar reproductions in spelter (zinc alloy), bronze, ceramics, and later resin/plaster.
  • Export pieces marked “Made in Italy,” “Japan,” or “Occupied Japan” (1947–1952), reflecting global trade shifts.

A mid-20th century Bastet figurine typically shows clean, elongated lines, a poised seated or recumbent cat with a collar or pectoral, and a rectilinear or stepped base—an Egyptian motif filtered through Deco geometry.

Materials, Construction, and Stylistic Cues

Knowing what the figurine is made of is the fastest way to gauge quality and age.

• Bronze

  • Traits: Dense, cold to the touch, complex patina (brown to green), crisp modeling around ears, paws, and necklace. Emits a clear metallic ring if lightly tapped.
  • Finish: Patinated, sometimes with subtle gilt highlights. Cold-painted details are less common on mid-century bronzes but possible.
  • Base: Often marble or onyx, with a through-bolt securing the figure. Slotted screw hardware more common earlier; Phillips can appear mid-century or on later repairs.

• Spelter (zinc alloy) with bronze wash or cold paint

  • Traits: Lighter than bronze, slightly duller detail, seams may be visible along the body. When scratched on an inconspicuous underside, the metal appears whitish/gray.
  • Finish: Bronze-color paint or electroplated wash; cold-painted collars or eyes. Wear reveals lighter metal beneath.
  • Base: Onyx or composition base; hardware can be mixed. Common from 1930s through 1950s.

• Ceramics (porcelain, earthenware, stoneware)

  • Traits: Glaze or matte slip finishes, mold seams inside hollow foot. Weight varies; ring is more of a clink than a metallic tone.
  • Marks: Printed backstamps (“Japan,” “Occupied Japan,” Italian factory names) help date. Some mid-century studio ceramics are unsigned.
  • Style: Can range from faithful Deco stylization to kitschier interpretations by the 1950s/60s.

• Alabaster, onyx, and marble bases

  • Onyx (green, cream, or caramel banding) and Belgian black marble are common Deco/base materials. Heavier, cool stone with natural veining, sharp edges softened by age.
  • Mid-century bases often show machine-cut precision and felt applied to the underside. Earlier Deco bases sometimes feature stacked, stepped geometry in contrasting stones.

• Resin/plaster (later reproductions)

  • Traits: Warm to the touch, lighter for size, uniform surface with molded “patina.” Often glued to a base with modern adhesives. Seam lines can be soft and rounded.
  • Tell: Modern felt pads, Phillips screws with bright plating, and perfect, uniform finishes.

Stylistic cues consistent with Art Deco/Egyptian Revival:

• A prominent collar or pectoral and occasionally a small cartouche glyph on the base.
• Simplified anatomy emphasizing a long neck, erect ears, and tapering limbs.
• A stepped or trapezoidal base, sometimes with incised linear decoration, echoing temple plinths.

Attribution, Dating, and Market Values

Attribution

• Signed bronzes: Certain French and Belgian foundries produced stylized cats; some works bear signatures or foundry stamps (e.g., “Depose,” “France,” or artist names). Genuine signatures are cut sharply and harmonize with the casting; soft, raised signatures can signal aftercasts.
• Austrian/German workshops: Cold-painted metal animals were a specialty through the early 20th century, though pure Egyptian goddess themes are less common than naturalistic cats.
• Postwar exports: Look for foil labels or stamped marks: “Made in Italy” for alabaster/bronze combinations, “Japan” or “Occupied Japan” for ceramics.

Dating clues

• Country of origin marks: “Occupied Japan” dates 1947–1952. “Western Germany” suggests post-1949. “Italy” labels surged in the 1950s–60s.
• Hardware: Slotted screws and square nuts are typical pre-1950; Phillips screws come into wider use from the late 1930s onward (much more common mid-century). Don’t forget that repairs can swap hardware.
• Felt and adhesives: Oxidized, moth-eaten woven felt and shellac residues suggest age; bright acrylic felt and hot glue point to later assembly.
• Finishes: Naturally thinned cold paint and mellow, uneven patina signal age; uniform spray-painted “bronze” without wear is a red flag.

Market values (indicative ranges; condition and attribution drive outcomes)

• Signed bronze figure on marble/onyx base (mid-century production or prewar stock assembled postwar): roughly $800–3,000. Blue-chip artists or exceptional scale can exceed this.
• Unsigned bronze of good quality: $400–1,200 depending on size, casting quality, and base.
• Spelter (bronze-wash or cold-painted) on stone base: $200–800. Decorative appeal and paint survival matter.
• Mid-century ceramics (Japan/Italy): $60–250, with higher prices for crisp modeling and period marks.
• Later resin/plaster decorative pieces: $20–80.

Factors that move the needle

• Scale: Taller figures (10–14 inches) on quality stone bases outperform smaller desk ornaments.
• Modeling quality: Sharp ears, finely incised collars, and expressive yet restrained faces suggest better workshops.
• Originality: Matching base and figure, original hardware and felt, and untouched patina drive premiums.
• Provenance: Retail labels, gallery receipts, or period photos can support dating and value.

Condition, Conservation, and Ethical Cleaning

Common condition issues

• Cold paint wear: Expected on edges, ears, and collar high points. Overpaint devalues; preserved original paint is prized.
• Patina disturbance: Stripping and repatination are hard to reverse and often obvious under magnification (pooled color in recesses, harsh brightness on flats).
• Stone base damage: Chips at corners, cracks along veining in onyx, and adhesive stains near bolt holes.
• Metal fatigue: Spelter is brittle; look for hairline fractures at ankles, tail joins, or under-belly points.
• Ceramic flaws: Firing flaws, crazing, hairline cracks, and over-glaze paint loss.

Cleaning guidelines

• Dust only: Use a soft brush or microfiber cloth; avoid liquid cleaners on cold-painted surfaces.
• Bronze care: A dry wipe is safest. If necessary, a barely damp cloth with deionized water, then dry immediately. Do not polish; polishing destroys value.
• Stone bases: Wipe with a dry cloth. Avoid acidic or alkaline cleaners; they etch marble and onyx.
• Adhesives and repairs: Leave old glue undisturbed unless failing. Removing adhesives risks surface loss; consult a conservator for professional treatment.

Restoration ethics

• Stabilize, don’t reinvent. Small, well-matched stone fills and discreet structural repairs are acceptable; repainting an entire cat or re-patinating metal generally hurts value.
• Document any work. Keep receipts and before/after images; transparency reassures future buyers.

Practical Appraisal Checklist

• Confirm material:
  • Bronze (dense, complex patina, bell-like ring) vs spelter (lighter, whitish scratch) vs ceramic (glaze/clink) vs resin/plaster (warm, uniform).
• Inspect the base:
  • Stone type (onyx, marble), chips/cracks, and whether the figure and base belong together (fit, color harmony, hardware alignment).
• Check hardware:
  • Slotted vs Phillips screws, nut type, washer age, and signs of re-drilling. Note doesn’t prove age alone, but informs the story.
• Look for marks:
  • Signatures, foundry stamps, country of origin, foil labels under the base or on the figure’s back/underside.
• Evaluate finish:
  • Original cold paint/patina vs spray paint or modern bronze powder coat. UV flashlight can reveal overpaint.
• Measure and weigh:
  • Height, base footprint, and weight help compare to known examples. Record in notes.
• Condition inventory:
  • List specific losses (ears, paws), paint wear, patina disruptions, and base damages with photos.
• Provenance:
  • Save labels, receipts, and family history; they add credibility and can tip value upward.
• Market comparables:
  • Match like with like: material, size, base, and presence of marks when assessing price range.
• When in doubt:
  • Avoid aggressive cleaning. Seek a conservator or specialist for high-value candidates.

FAQ

Q: How can I tell Bastet from a generic Deco cat? A: Bastet depictions typically include a collar or pectoral and sometimes a small cartouche or ankh motif on the base. The pose is often formal and frontal, echoing ancient Egyptian statuary. Purely generic Deco cats may lack explicit Egyptian symbols and favor more whimsical or naturalistic features.

Q: Does a Phillips screw automatically mean my piece is from the 1950s or later? A: Not automatically. Phillips screws existed in the late 1930s and appear in wartime/postwar assembly. However, on Deco objects they’re more common mid-century or as replacements. Treat hardware as one clue among many—consider marks, finish, and base together.

Q: My figurine’s “bronze” finish rubs off to reveal a pale metal. Is it fake? A: Not necessarily. That’s typical of spelter with a bronze wash or cold-painted surface. Spelter pieces are legitimate period items; they’re simply a tier below cast bronze in quality and value.

Q: Should I polish a dull bronze cat to make it shine? A: No. Original patina is desirable and part of the object’s history. Polishing removes patina, lowers value, and can leave uneven surfaces. Light, dry dusting is best; consult a conservator for any heavier treatment.

Q: What size is most common, and does size affect value? A: Common sizes range from 6 to 12 inches tall, often on 1–2 inch thick stone bases. Larger, well-modeled examples, particularly in bronze, generally command higher prices, assuming condition and originality are strong.

By understanding materials, construction, and context, you can confidently position a mid-20th century Art Deco Egyptian cat goddess figurine in the market, care for it properly, and recognize when you’ve found a superior example worthy of specialist attention.