Searching for antique art appraisers near you usually means you have a real-world deadline: insurance paperwork, estate inventory, a potential sale, or an authenticity question you don’t want to guess on.
This guide shows how to find the right expert (local or remote), what credentials actually matter, and how to prepare photos and documentation so you get a defensible value opinion and clear next steps.
Important: values change with the market, and different appraisal purposes use different value definitions. For insurance, taxes, and legal work, ask for a written report and confirm the appraiser is USPAP-aware (or USPAP-compliant when required).
If you only do five things:
- Take clear photos: full front/back, signature/marks, labels, and condition issues.
- Measure the work (image size + framed size; sculpture: height × width × depth).
- Write down medium, condition issues, and how you acquired it (provenance basics).
- Decide the purpose: insurance, resale, estate, donation/taxes, or authentication help.
- Choose a specialist for your category (paintings vs. prints vs. sculpture vs. decorative arts).
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1) Define the appraisal purpose (it changes the number)
Before you email anyone, write down why you need the appraisal. An insurance appraisal is not the same thing as a resale estimate. When the purpose is clear, you’ll get a faster response—and a report that actually works for your situation.
- Insurance scheduling / replacement cost: what it costs to replace with a comparable work at retail.
- Resale / liquidation: what you can realistically net after selling fees and market exposure.
- Estate / divorce / legal: a defensible written report with scope, methodology, and date-of-value.
- Charitable donation (tax): fair market value, with documentation requirements that get stricter at higher values.
2) The appraiser-ready checklist (15 minutes of prep)
Here’s the fastest way to make your request appraiser-ready. If you can send a single email or upload that includes everything below, most professionals can tell you next steps quickly.
- Identify the object: “oil on canvas,” “lithograph,” “bronze sculpture,” etc.
- Measure it: image size (art only) and framed size; for sculpture, height × width × depth.
- Summarize condition: tears, scratches, discoloration, restorations, frame damage.
- Attach photos: see the shot list below (front/back/signature/labels).
- Attach provenance docs: receipt, gallery invoice, COA, exhibition labels, prior appraisals.
- State the purpose and deadline: “insurance by Friday” or “estate inventory this month.”
3) Photograph your art the way an appraiser needs
Most remote appraisals live or die on photography. Your goal is not “pretty pictures”—it’s evidence. Use diffuse daylight, avoid glare, and shoot both overall views and closeups.
Must-have shots (minimum set)
- Full front (straight-on, sharp, no heavy shadows).
- Full back (stretcher bars, paper backing, hanging hardware, labels).
- Signature/monogram/date (close enough to read, plus one wider shot showing placement).
- Medium clues (canvas weave, brushwork, print dot pattern, plate mark, casting seams).
- Damage/repairs (raking-light shot for surface issues, closeups of tears/restoration).
Two fast lighting tricks
- Raking light: shine a lamp from the side to reveal texture, cracking, or raised paint.
- Glare control: angle the work and move your light source until reflections disappear.
4) Gather the details that actually change value
Appraisers price specific works, not general ideas. These details are what allow an expert to find true market comparables.
- Artist name (as signed), and any alternate spellings you’ve seen.
- Title (if known), plus date (if dated).
- Medium (oil, acrylic, watercolor, pastel, etching, lithograph, bronze, resin, mixed media).
- Edition info for prints/sculpture (e.g., 12/75, AP, EA, HC).
- Dimensions and whether they include the frame/base.
- Condition and any conservation/restoration history.
5) Assemble provenance (even if it’s “light”)
Provenance doesn’t need to be museum-level to matter. Even a simple paper trail helps confirm identity and reduces risk for a buyer.
- Receipt or invoice (gallery, auction, private sale).
- Certificate of authenticity (if issued by a credible source).
- Exhibition labels, framing labels, shipping labels, and collection stamps.
- Any prior appraisal or insurance schedule entry (with date and value type).
6) Choose a reputable appraiser (credentials + scope)
The fastest appraisal is the one you don’t have to redo. Look for someone who works in your category and can provide a written report when needed.
- Category expertise: prints and multiples, contemporary paintings, Asian art, folk art, etc.
- Professional standards: ask whether they can produce a USPAP-compliant report when required.
- Clear scope and fees: what value type (insurance vs resale), what deliverable, what turnaround.
- Independence: avoid anyone who must buy your piece to “confirm” the value.
Red flags: guaranteed prices sight-unseen, pressure to sell immediately, or refusal to put conclusions in writing.
Authentication and attribution: what to expect
Many collectors use “authentication” to mean: “Is it real, and is it by who it says it is?” An appraiser can often provide strong attribution guidance (and flag concerns), but definitive authentication may require additional steps.
- Provenance checks: receipts, prior owners, exhibition catalogs, and collection marks.
- Comparative research: catalog raisonné references, known signatures/marks, and stylistic comparison.
- Technical review: when stakes are high, a conservator can advise on UV/IR imaging or material analysis.
If you’re pursuing a major attribution or suspect a forgery, expect deeper research (and a longer timeline) than a standard valuation.
7) Online vs. in-person appraisal (what each is good for)
Online appraisals are great when you have strong photos and need a fast written opinion. In-person is better when the work requires technical examination (paper analysis, UV, or condition issues that photographs can’t capture).
- Online works best for: prints, posters, many paintings, clear signatures, general insurance scheduling.
- In-person is better for: high-value works, disputed authenticity, heavy restoration, fragile media.
8) What a real appraisal report includes
A credible report typically includes identification details, condition notes, photographs, a stated appraisal purpose, and the market research used to support the conclusion.
- Work identification: artist, title, date, medium, dimensions, edition marks.
- Condition and observed issues (and whether conservation is recommended).
- Valuation approach: comparable sales or replacement retail logic.
- Date of value (important for estates/taxes) and report date.
- Signature of the appraiser and any credential information.
9) Typical appraisal costs & timelines
Fees vary by complexity and purpose. A straightforward single-piece online valuation is often priced as a fixed fee. Larger collections, legal work, or complex research is commonly billed hourly.
- Simple single-item online appraisal: often a flat fee with 24–72 hour turnaround.
- Insurance scheduling for multiple items: priced per item or hourly.
- Estate/tax/legal reports: higher cost and longer timelines because standards are stricter.
10) After you get the number: what to do next
- Insurance: schedule the piece if needed, store the report + photos in two places.
- Selling: ask about realistic net proceeds after fees, and choose a venue that matches your category.
- Estate planning: keep the report date and value definition with the inventory records.
FAQ
Can I get an accurate appraisal from photos?
Often, yes—if the photos show the right evidence. For very high-value works, disputed authenticity, or complex condition issues, an in-person exam may still be required.
Is an auction estimate the same as an appraisal?
Not always. Auction estimates are marketing tools based on what a house believes it can sell the work for at auction, not necessarily replacement cost or fair market value for taxes.
Should I clean or restore the artwork before appraisal?
Don’t do aggressive cleaning first. Document the current condition with photos; ask the appraiser or a conservator before any treatment.
What if I don’t have provenance?
That’s common. Start with what you do have: where you acquired it, any receipts, framing labels, and clear signature/back photos.
Search variations collectors ask
Readers often Google:
- antique art appraisers near me for authentication
- how to verify ASA or ISA appraiser credentials
- what is USPAP and do I need it for insurance
- how much does an antique art appraisal cost
- online antique art appraisal from photos
- questions to ask an art appraiser before hiring
- antique painting appraisal for estate settlement
- art appraisal vs auction estimate difference
- how to document provenance for antique artwork
Each question is answered in the valuation guide above.
References & data sources
- Appraisal Foundation: USPAP standards overview. https://appraisalfoundation.org/uspap
- American Society of Appraisers (ASA): find an appraiser. https://www.appraisers.org/find-an-appraiser
- International Society of Appraisers (ISA): find an appraiser. https://www.isa-appraisers.org/find-an-appraiser
- IRS (U.S.) donation guidance (fair market value concepts and documentation). https://www.irs.gov/publications/p561
- Appraisers Association of America: professional appraiser directory. https://www.appraisersassociation.org/
- American Institute for Conservation (AIC): find a conservator. https://www.culturalheritage.org/about-conservation/find-a-conservator