Discover Your Treasure: Expert Tips On Determining The True Value Of Your Antique Dresser

Whether you call it a dresser, chest of drawers, highboy, or commode, period case furniture rewards a trained eye. Value hinges on what it is, when and where it was made, how original it remains, and what the market wants today. This guide gives enthusiasts a clear framework for identifying, authenticating, and valuing an antique dresser with confidence.

Know What You Have: Types, Terminology, and Period Styles

Start by defining the form and style. Names vary by region and era, and correct identification narrows attribution and value.

• Common forms:
  • Chest of drawers (stacked drawers in a rectangular case)
  • Highboy/tallboy (upper chest set on a lower stand)
  • Chest-on-chest (two chests stacked, often with a molding break)
  • Commode (French term for chest; also used for marble-top cabinets)
  • Dresser (in North American usage, a chest; in British usage, a kitchen sideboard—be sure which you have)
• Notable profiles:
  • Straight front vs serpentine (S-curve) vs bombe (swollen sides/front)
  • Feet: bracket, ogee bracket, bun, ball-and-claw, French cabriole
  • Base: molded plinth vs applied bracket
• Period cues:
  • Georgian/Chippendale (c. 1714–1780): bold bracket feet, ogee moldings, mahogany, hand-cut dovetails
  • Federal/Hepplewhite/Sheraton (c. 1780–1820): lighter lines, inlay/banding, tapered legs, satinwood or contrasting veneers
  • Regency/Empire (c. 1800–1840): heavier forms, columns/pilasters, flame mahogany veneer, brass mounts
  • Victorian (c. 1840–1900): larger scale, carved ornament, marble tops, walnut/rosewood veneers
  • Arts & Crafts (c. 1890–1915): rectilinear, exposed joinery, quarter-sawn oak
  • Art Deco (c. 1920s–40s): geometric forms, exotic veneers, stepped profiles, chrome or Bakelite hardware
  • Mid-century Modern (c. 1945–65): clean lines, teak/rosewood/walnut, integrated pulls

Understanding style unlocks the right attribution pool and sets baseline expectations: for example, a serpentine-front Georgian chest in Cuban mahogany carries different value dynamics than a Victorian marble-top dresser or a mid-century teak chest by a known Scandinavian maker.

Read the Construction: Joinery, Wood, and Finish

Construction details are your best truth-tellers. They reveal age, craftsmanship, and originality.

• Joinery and tool marks
  • Dovetails: Hand-cut dovetails (irregular pins/tails) dominate pre-1860s; machine-cut dovetails (uniform spacing) become common from the 1870s onward. Tiny, very regular pins on an “early Georgian” piece are a red flag.
  • Drawer bottoms: Early drawers often have solid bottoms running front-to-back, chamfered and set in grooves; later examples may run side-to-side. Nails vs grooves and the direction of boards can indicate period and region.
  • Saw marks: Straight, slightly irregular pits from hand or pit saws suggest pre-1840; arced circular saw marks indicate later 19th century and beyond.
  • Screws and nails: Hand-forged screws with off-center slots and tapered shanks predate c. 1846; cut nails (square) were common 1790–1890; wire nails appear after c. 1890. Phillips-head screws on “18th-century” hardware indicate later intervention.
• Primary and secondary woods
  • Primary woods (exterior): Mahogany (Cuban/Honduran), walnut, cherry, oak; rosewood and satinwood as veneers. European pieces might use fruitwoods; Scandinavian examples often use birch or teak later on.
  • Secondary woods (drawer sides, backs): Early American makers used pine, poplar, oak; English often used deal/softwood. Consistent use of historically correct secondary woods supports authenticity.
  • Quarter-sawn oak shows medullary rays (“tiger” flecking) and is favored in Arts & Crafts dressers.
• Veneers and inlay
  • Early hand-sawn veneers tend to be thicker (approx. 1–2 mm) than later machine veneers (often <0.6 mm). Exposed edges at losses can reveal thickness.
  • Banding, stringing, and marquetry should be crisp, with age-consistent oxidation to glue lines and substrate.
• Hardware
  • Period brasses (bail pulls, rosettes, escutcheons) will show wear where hands naturally touch and oxidation in protected areas. Perfectly bright backplates with sharp punch marks may be replacements.
  • Check for extra holes or plugged holes behind plates—signs of replaced hardware that can affect value.
• Finish and patina
  • Shellac (common in the 18th–19th centuries) has a warm depth; French polish yields a glossy shellac surface; later lacquers and polyurethane look different. A blacklight may show shellac’s warm fluorescence versus modern coatings, though results are not definitive.
  • True patina includes gentle surface oxidation, micro-scratches, and color gradation from UV exposure; uniform coloring can suggest refinishing.

Cumulative consistency matters. A mid-18th-century English chest with circular saw marks, wire nails, and machine dovetails is internally contradictory and likely later or heavily altered.

Assess Originality and Condition: What Helps—and Hurts—Value

Condition drives value, but not all wear is equal. Distinguish desirable age from damaging deterioration.

• What helps
  • Original finish with honest wear: Often adds 20–50% compared to refinished examples, more for rare pieces.
  • Intact feet and molding: Feet are commonly replaced; original feet on 18th-century chests add meaningful value.
  • Original hardware and locks: Complete, period-correct brasses are a plus, even if slightly loose or dull.
  • Even, expected shrinkage: Case sides shrinking slightly beyond the top, or drawer lips that sit proud, are normal with age.
• What hurts
  • Refinish/strip: Heavy sanding and polyurethane can remove patina and reduce value—sometimes by 30–70% on high-end period pieces.
  • Re-veneering and patches: Needed structural repairs are acceptable, but obvious patches, mismatched grain, or modern glues lower value.
  • Incorrect or missing feet, replaced drawer runners, and reconstructed cornices: Bigger deductions on formal pieces.
  • Water damage, active insect activity (powdery frass, fresh exit holes), severe warping or splits, cigarette burns, sun bleaching.
  • Overrestoration: Overly glossy, glass-smooth surfaces and rounded edges betray aggressive refinishing.
• Smart conservation
  • Reversible, sympathetic restoration by a specialist typically preserves value better than DIY fixes.
  • Retain removed original parts (even broken brasses or fragments of molding); they prove originality and can be repaired.

Be conservative with cleaning before evaluation. Removing grime can remove evidence. If you must, dry-dust and use a mild, silicone-free wax sparingly.

Provenance, Labels, and Regional Attribution

Who made it and where affects desirability—and value.

• Labels, stamps, and chalk marks
  • Cabinetmaker or retailer labels (e.g., 19th-century shop labels, trade labels inside drawers) can authenticate origin and narrow date.
  • Ink or chalk inventory marks from estates or shipping can help trace ownership.
  • Beware spurious labels—edges should be age-appropriate, with consistent oxidation and glue bleed.
• Regional characteristics
  • American: Philadelphia and New York pieces often show superior carving and proportions; New England examples may favor clean lines and maple/cherry; Southern pieces can use yellow pine as secondary wood.
  • English: Chippendale-influenced mahogany, neat dovetails, oak/pine secondaries.
  • French: Vernis, marble tops, ormolu mounts; bombe and serpentine forms in Louis XV; straighter neoclassical lines in Louis XVI.
  • Scandinavian: Light birch in Biedermeier; later teak and rosewood in Danish Modern.
• Makers and workshops
  • Signed pieces or those attributable to known workshops command premiums. An unsigned but “school of” piece still benefits from strong stylistic and construction alignment.

Provenance that links to notable collections, documented restoration by a respected conservator, or publication history elevates value. Paper trails matter—retain bills of sale, prior appraisals, or exhibition tags.

Build a Market-Based Value: Comparables, Venues, and Value Types

Value is not one number; it depends on venue and purpose. Anchor your estimate in data and definitions.

• Value types
  • Fair market value (FMV): The price between willing buyer/seller, no compulsion. Typically based on recent auction results.
  • Retail replacement value (RRV): What it would cost to replace in a retail setting; higher than FMV; used for insurance.
  • Liquidation/wholesale: Dealer buy-in or quick-sale value; lower than FMV.
• Comparables (comps)
  • Match like with like: same period, region, wood, size, profile (serpentine vs straight), originality, and condition.
  • Adjust for differences: original finish, replaced brasses, feet condition, veneer losses, provenance, and restoration quality.
  • Consider scale: Large, well-proportioned cases in desirable woods usually outperform small, awkward, or overly altered examples.
• Market trends
  • “Brown furniture” (formal Victorian and some Georgian) has been softer in segments, but best-in-class pieces and those with original surface remain strong.
  • Mid-century and high-style Art Deco are buoyant, especially with named designers or manufacturers.
  • Regional demand can skew results; American Federal chests may outperform in the Northeast; Scandinavian modern excels in design-focused markets.
• Venues and selling costs
  • Auction: Transparent comps, but buyer’s premiums, seller’s commissions, and reserves apply. Realized prices swing with competition and condition.
  • Dealer retail: Higher sticker, curated audience, time to sell; net after commissions differs.
  • Private sale: Negotiated, potentially higher net with patience and direct marketing.

Document three to five recent comps with notes on differences and realized prices. Average and adjust with judgment; avoid over-weighting outliers.

Preservation and Handling: Protecting Value While You Decide

Proper care prevents avoidable losses.

• Environment: Stable humidity (around 40–55%), temperatures near 18–22°C/65–72°F. Avoid radiators, direct sunlight, and damp basements.
• Placement: Level surface, felt pads under feet to prevent stress and floor damage.
• Cleaning: Dust with soft cloth; occasional high-quality paste wax (silicone-free). Avoid spray polishes that leave silicone residues—these complicate future conservation.
• Pests: Watch for fresh powder (frass). Isolate and consult a conservator if active infestation is suspected.
• Moving: Remove drawers, support from the case bottom, not by the top or cornice. Protect corners and feet.

Practical Checklist: Quick Appraisal Steps

• Identify the form and style; note key features (serpentine, bombe, feet type).
• Photograph all sides, inside drawers, underside, back boards, feet, and hardware backs.
• Inspect joinery: dovetails (hand vs machine), drawer bottoms, tool marks.
• Map woods: primary vs secondary; note veneer thickness and any inlay.
• Check hardware for originality: look for extra holes and screw types.
• Evaluate finish: likely shellac vs modern coating; look for patina and sun fading.
• Note condition issues: splits, veneer losses, replaced elements, insect activity.
• Search for labels, stamps, signatures, and old inventory marks.
• Build comps: 3–5 similar examples; adjust for condition/originality.
• Decide value type: FMV vs retail replacement; apply appropriate range.

Short FAQ

Q: How much does refinishing affect the value of an antique dresser? A: It depends on rarity and market segment. For high-quality 18th–early 19th-century pieces, a heavy refinish can reduce value by 30–70%. For common late 19th-century dressers, the hit may be smaller, but original surface still commands a premium.

Q: Are replaced drawer pulls a deal breaker? A: Not necessarily. Period-correct replacements are acceptable, but original hardware adds value. Extra holes or incorrect patterns reduce value. If original pulls are present but stored separately, keep them—they can be reinstalled.

Q: Can I date a dresser by dovetails alone? A: No. Dovetails are a strong clue, but must align with other evidence: saw marks, nails/screws, secondary woods, and style. Reproductions may mimic hand-cut dovetails. Always weigh multiple indicators.

Q: What’s the difference between fair market value and insurance value? A: Fair market value reflects typical auction-level pricing between informed parties. Insurance (retail replacement) value is the cost to replace with a similar item in a retail setting, usually higher to account for dealer sourcing and time.

Q: Should I clean or wax before an appraisal? A: Light dusting is fine. Avoid aggressive cleaning, oils, or waxes right before appraisal—surface residues can hide or alter evidence of age and finish. Conservators prefer to see the piece “as found.”

By pairing connoisseurship with market data, you can distinguish a genuinely significant dresser from a decorative one—and price it correctly for your goals, whether you’re insuring, selling, or simply understanding a family heirloom.