Erte American Millionairess Suite Framed Hand Signed Serigraphs

Erté’s work sits at the crossroads of Art Deco elegance and theatrical design. Among his most collected prints, the American Millionairess Suite stands out for its glamorous archetypes, luminous inks, and meticulous craftsmanship. For collectors and appraisers, knowing how to identify, evaluate, and value these hand-signed serigraphs is essential. This guide breaks down the suite’s characteristics, authentication cues, condition factors, and market dynamics—especially for framed examples.

Who Erté Was—and What the American Millionairess Suite Represents

Erté (Romain de Tirtoff, 1892–1990) defined the look of interwar glamour: elongated figures, stylized drapery, and a refined sense of theatricality informed by his work in fashion, set design, and illustration. In the late 20th century he issued numerous limited-edition prints—chiefly serigraphs (screenprints)—that translated his Art Deco idiom into radiant, collectable multiples.

The American Millionairess Suite is a late-career portfolio that encapsulates Erté’s fascination with archetypal femininity and couture spectacle, updated with an American twist. Each plate typically portrays a fashion-forward heiress emblematic of a locale or lifestyle—jet set meets Deco stagecraft—rendered in crisp blocks of color, metallic highlights, and, in some impressions, textured or embossed passages. The suite is encountered both as individual prints and as cohesive sets assembled by galleries and private collectors.

Key takeaways:

• Late-career limited edition serigraphs, hand-signed in pencil.
• Published for the American market, commonly by mainstream Erté distributors of the era.
• Visually consistent with Erté’s iconic Deco fashion plates: elongated proportions, ornamental patterning, and jewel-toned palettes.

How to Identify Authentic Hand-Signed Serigraphs

Because the artist’s imagery is widely reproduced, the first appraisal step is distinguishing genuine hand-signed, limited-edition serigraphs from posters or later open-edition prints.

What to look for:

• Edition number: Fraction in pencil at the lower left (e.g., 123/300). The numerator is the individual impression; the denominator is the edition size. Separate notations may exist for Artist’s Proofs (A.P.), Hors Commerce (H.C.), or Printer’s Proofs (P.P.), often in Roman numerals or lettered form.
• Signature: “Erté” in pencil at the lower right margin. His signature is stylized, flowing, and typically placed well within the margin on rag paper. Beware of printed (plate-signed) signatures within the image area—authentic limited serigraphs will also bear a pencil signature in the margin.
• Blindstamps/chop marks: Many authentic examples carry an embossed printer’s or publisher’s chop in the lower margin, and some include an Erté monogram blindstamp. Presence and placement vary by print and publisher.
• Paper: Heavy, 100% cotton rag paper with deckled or trimmed edges; bright white to warm white tone, depending on storage and age. The ink sits atop the fibers, a hallmark of screenprinting. Under magnification, you should not see halftone dots characteristic of offset lithography.
• Ink and surface: Serigraphs may show discrete layers of solid color; metallic inks (gold, silver, copper) and occasional embossing or varnish are common in Erté editions. Slight ridge lines where one color abuts another can be visible.
• Documentation: Original portfolio case or title page (if from a complete suite), gallery invoice, or a certificate of authenticity issued at time of sale. Documentation is helpful but not strictly necessary if the print displays all physical hallmarks of an authentic edition.

Common red flags:

• Uniform, glossy surface across all colors (suggests modern digital reproduction).
• Pixelation or rosette patterns under 10x magnification (offset or giclée, not serigraph).
• Plate-signed poster on thin poster stock with no deckled or substantial margin.
• Overly bright, modern white paper with no texture paired with a printed signature.

Edition Structure, Markings, and Paper Details

Erté serigraphs from this period typically follow a familiar edition logic, even though individual titles can differ.

Typical editioning:

• Numbered edition commonly around 300 impressions, sometimes 350; plus a small number of A.P., H.C., and P.P. impressions.
• Numbering format: Arabic numerals for the numbered edition (e.g., 245/300). A.P. and H.C. may be notated “A.P. 15/30” or “H.C. XII/XXX,” depending on the publisher’s protocol.
• Publishing details: Often published for the American market by established galleries of the era. The verso or the lower margin may carry a small printed or embossed line naming the publisher.
• Title: The title may be printed on a portfolio sheet or noted on a label; it is not always handwritten on the print itself.

Paper and size:

• Paper: Heavy rag paper suitable for screenprinting; weight typically 250–300 gsm.
• Sheet size: Commonly in the 30 x 24 in (76 x 61 cm) range, though some plates can be larger or slightly smaller depending on layout. Framed sizes vary widely.
• Margins: Generous margins are typical, left visible by better framers to showcase the signature and edition number. Some vintage framings crop margins; this affects value.

Cataloging a print for appraisal:

• Artist: Erté (Romain de Tirtoff, 1892–1990)
• Title: [American Millionairess Suite: specific plate title if known]
• Medium: Hand-signed limited edition serigraph in colors on rag paper
• Date: c. mid- to late-20th century (suite issue date specific to the plate)
• Edition: [e.g., 123/300], plus any A.P./H.C./P.P. notes
• Sheet/image size: measure to 1/16 inch precision; note framed size separately
• Marks: pencil signature lower right; edition lower left; any embossed chop; any printed copyright line
• Condition: detailed (see below)

Condition and Framing: What Helps (and Hurts) Value

Framed examples make up the majority of market offerings. While original, period frames can be appealing, condition drives price more than framing aesthetics. Focus on conservation, not ornament.

Condition factors that matter:

• Light exposure: Fading or color shift is the most common issue. Compare protected margin areas (under mat) to exposed areas; a noticeable line indicates sunning. Metallic inks dull with UV overexposure.
• Paper tone: Even, natural paper tone suggests good storage. Creamy or lightly tanned paper can be acceptable; blotchy browning or foxing (rust-colored specks) reduces value.
• Mat burn: Acidic mats leave brown bevel lines in margins. Replace mats with archival materials; note any staining when appraising.
• Moisture and handling: Ripples, cockling, soft creases, pressure marks, or abrasions in ink layers decrease value. Serigraph surfaces can scuff if abraded.
• Adhesives: Older framings sometimes use dry-mount tissue or pressure-sensitive tapes. Hinged with Japanese paper and wheat starch paste is preferred. Dry-mounting to board is permanent and generally negative for value.
• Embossing and texture: If present, check for crushing or flattening from overly tight framing.
• Odor and contamination: Smoke exposure leaves a telltale odor and film; mold is a serious condition issue.

Framing best practices:

• Use 100% cotton museum mat and backing, hinged at top edge with archival materials.
• Glazing: UV-filtering acrylic or glass. Anti-reflective UV acrylic is ideal; avoid direct contact between glazing and print surface.
• Maintain a visible margin to show signature and edition number; avoid cropping.

Market Values and Current Trends

Erté’s serigraphs remain liquid in the secondary market, with demand driven by subject, condition, and edition desirability. The American Millionairess Suite resonates with buyers who favor figure-forward Deco glamour.

General pricing landscape (individual plates):

• Common plates in clean, unfaded condition: frequently achieved prices in the low-to-mid four figures.
• Desirable compositions with metallic inks, pristine margins, and archival framing: mid-to-upper four figures, occasionally more for scarce or especially iconic plates.
• Framed but faded or with mat burn/dry mount: discounts of 25–50% relative to strong comparables.

Complete or matched suites:

• A coherent set with matching edition numbers, consistent condition, and portfolio materials can command a suite premium over the sum of individual plates. The premium varies with buyer appetite and the cohesiveness of presentation.

What moves the needle:

• Condition and color strength: The single largest driver.
• Documentation and provenance: Gallery invoices, original portfolio case, and consistent edition numbers across a set inspire bidder confidence.
• Scarcity and image appeal: Figures with elaborate costuming and metallic finishes attract competition.
• Market timing: Seasonal auction cycles and themed sales can lift results.

Interpreting comps:

• Focus on apples-to-apples: same plate, same edition type, similar condition, similar framing situation.
• Adjust downward for condition issues and upward for complete suite status.
• Note buyer’s premium and taxes when deriving net comparables.

Appraisal Workflow and Selling Options

A disciplined process produces reliable results and helps when insuring or selling.

Step-by-step:

1. Identify: Confirm the medium as a serigraph, note the edition number, signature, and any chops or copyright lines. Record measurements.
2. Condition report: Examine unglazed if safe and feasible; if sealed, use raking light and a loupe. Note any color shift, mat burn, foxing, cockling, tears, or mounting method.
3. Provenance: Gather invoices, COAs, labels, or correspondence. Photograph labels on verso before reframing.
4. Comparable sales: Compile recent results for the same plate and, failing that, closely related Erté serigraphs with similar features and sizes. Normalize for condition.
5. Valuation: Provide a retail replacement value (for insurance) and a fair-market value (for sale), explaining adjustments and assumptions.
6. Strategy: Decide between private sale, gallery consignment, or auction. For suites, consider offering as a set to realize a premium.

Selling channels:

• Specialty print galleries for retail placement and potentially higher but slower sales.
• Auctions for faster liquidity and transparent market testing, especially effective for desirable plates in pristine condition.
• Private sales to collectors who focus on Erté or Art Deco, where provenance and matching suite numbers matter.

Quick Appraisal Checklist

• Verify pencil signature (lower right) and edition number (lower left).
• Confirm serigraph characteristics: solid color layers, no halftone dots, heavy rag paper.
• Inspect for UV fading by comparing exposed image to protected margin under the mat.
• Check for mat burn, foxing, cockling, scuffs, or dry-mounting.
• Record sheet and image sizes; photograph front, signature/number, margins, and any chops.
• Note publisher marks and any COA or gallery labels.
• Pull three to five recent, plate-specific comparables and adjust for condition.
• If framed non-archivally, budget for conservation reframing with UV glazing.

FAQ

Q: Are hand-signed Erté serigraphs considered “originals”? A: They are original limited-edition prints approved and signed by the artist, not unique works. Their originality lies in the artist’s direct involvement and the limited, controlled editioning.

Q: How can I tell a serigraph from an offset poster? A: Under 10x magnification, serigraphs show flat, solid color fields without rosette patterns. Ink often sits slightly raised on rag paper. Offset posters reveal tiny, repeating halftone dots and usually thinner paper.

Q: Does the absence of a COA ruin the value? A: Not necessarily. Physical evidence—pencil signature, edition number, paper, and chops—carries more weight. A COA can help with buyer confidence, but authentication rests on the print itself.

Q: Should I reframe a vintage frame? A: If the frame is non-archival or causing damage (acidic mat, no UV glazing, dry-mount), conservation reframing is recommended. A period-looking, archival reframe supports value better than preserving a harmful original frame.

Q: Can a complete suite be worth more than individual plates sold separately? A: Often yes. Matched edition numbers, consistent condition, and original portfolio materials can yield a suite premium. However, if one plate is significantly compromised, breaking the set may maximize returns.

By applying these identification, condition, and market principles, you can confidently assess Erté’s American Millionairess Suite—whether you’re cataloging a single framed plate or valuing a complete, matched set.