Fetching The Doctor By John Rogers 1829 1904

John Rogers, the American sculptor active in the mid-to-late 19th century, became a household name through his affordable, story-telling plaster “Rogers Groups.” Among his domestic genre scenes, Fetching the Doctor stands out for its emotionally charged narrative of a household crisis and the desperate rush to summon medical help. For collectors, appraisers, and historians, this work offers a rewarding case study in identifying authentic Rogers casts, dating variants, and evaluating condition and value.

Below is a practical, evidence-based guide to understanding and appraising Fetching the Doctor in the context of the broader Rogers oeuvre.

Rogers Groups at a Glance

• The artist: John Rogers (1829–1904) perfected a business model that brought sculpture into middle-class parlors. His compositions—often three-dimensional tableaux on oval bases—were sold by subscription and through showrooms.
• Material and finish: Original works are cast in plaster (sometimes with composition additives) and finished with a warm tan/buff surface, typically sealed with a shellac or similar coating. The finish should read as a mellow, matte-to-low-satin patina rather than shiny paint.
• Editions and distribution: Rogers reissued popular models over many years. The base typically carries the sculptor’s name, the title, a copyright or model year, and a New York address. The presence of a date generally refers to the model or copyright, not the specific casting year.
• Collecting today: Rogers Groups are appreciated for their social history, theatricality, and approachable size. Prices vary widely based on rarity, subject, and condition.

“Fetching the Doctor”: Subject, Dating, and Variants

• The narrative: Fetching the Doctor captures a moment of urgency in a 19th-century domestic setting as a household dispatches someone—often represented in a poised or hurried stance—to bring medical help. The scene fits Rogers’s hallmark interest in everyday drama told through gesture and interaction.
• Period of issue: While exact production spans for individual models vary, many domestic genre Rogers Groups were issued in the mid-1860s through the 1870s and sometimes recast later. Expect to see an incised copyright year on the base that records when the design was registered; later castings will still carry that same year.
• Title variations: Some examples may appear in older inventories or auction catalogues under closely related phrasing (e.g., “Going for the Doctor”). Minor titling differences are not uncommon in the Rogers market. Always prioritize the inscription found on the base of your specific group.
• Dimensions: Rogers domestic subjects typically range roughly 14–20 inches in height and can measure similar widths across the oval base, though exact size varies by model and casting run.

How to Identify an Original Rogers Casting

Look for the following hallmarks; the more you can check off, the greater your confidence in authenticity:

• Material and weight: Originals are plaster-based and feel substantially heavy for their size but not as dense as bronze. Chips will reveal a lighter plaster core beneath the tan finish.
• Surface: Expect a warm, uniform tan/buff patina, often with subtle age toning and light abrasion at high points. Later decorative “bronze” paints or glossy household paints are not factory-original and typically reduce value.
• Inscription: On the front edge of the oval base, or sometimes along the side, look for:
  • “JOHN ROGERS” or “JOHN ROGERS GROUP” incised or raised.
  • The title, e.g., “FETCHING THE DOCTOR.”
  • A copyright year associated with the model.
  • A New York address. Rogers used different New York addresses across his career; the address can help approximate a casting period.
• Underside and construction clues:
  • The base underside on originals is usually smooth plaster; some may show tool marks from finishing or traces of old felt or paper lining.
  • Molding seams and subtle hand-finishing marks may be visible on closer inspection, especially inside recesses.
• Build and proportions: Composition should be crisp, with well-defined drapery, hair, and facial features. Excessively soft details or waxy surfaces can indicate a later recast or heavy overpainting.

Distinguishing originals from later reproductions:

• Bronze versions: Rogers is celebrated for plaster groups. Bronze versions on the market are generally much later aftercasts or decorative copies. Unless there is impeccable documentation of a period bronze, treat bronze examples with skepticism.
• Newer plasters: 20th-century souvenir-type reproductions exist. These often have generic or absent inscriptions, overly glossy paint, or lighter weight. Their base edges may be sharper or, conversely, overly soft from poor molds. Lettering on the base is a key tell: originals have clean, confident inscriptions.
• Repaints: A thick metallic “bronze” paint or uniform modern latex layer obscures detail and inscriptions. Such coatings are common on genuine originals but reduce value and complicate authentication.

Condition, Restoration, and Best Practices for Care

Plaster is vulnerable, and Rogers Groups often exhibit the following:

• Typical condition issues:

  • Edge chips to the base rim.
  • Finger, toe, or small element losses.
  • Hairline cracks at stress points (ankles, wrists, joins of multi-figure compositions).
  • Minor surface losses, flaking shellac, or scuffs at high points.
  • Old reglued breaks, sometimes with visible glue lines or overpainted fills.

• Impact on value:

  • Stable, minor edge chips: modest impact.
  • Small losses to fingers or lacework details: moderate impact.
  • Large breaks, misaligned reassemblies, or extensive repaint: significant impact.
  • Structural instability (base fractures, multiple through-cracks): severe impact.

• Conservation guidelines:

  • Dust with a soft, dry brush and low-suction vacuum (micro-attachment), keeping the nozzle away from the surface.
  • Avoid water or household cleaners; moisture can stain and cause friable plaster.
  • If consolidation is needed, professional conservators often use reversible acrylic resins (e.g., B-72 in appropriate solvent systems) to stabilize flaking or to bond clean breaks.
  • Fills for losses should be done with conservation-grade materials toned to match the original patina, with minimal, reversible inpainting confined to losses.
  • Reversing old metallic overpaints is possible but risky; it requires testing and a conservator’s hand. Consider the cost-to-value equation before undertaking a full refinish.

• Display and environment:

  • Avoid high humidity and rapid fluctuations. Ideal is a stable, moderate RH.
  • Keep out of direct sunlight to prevent surface discoloration.
  • Use a secure, level shelf; vibration and accidental bumps are the enemy of plaster.

Market, Rarity, and Appraisal Considerations

• Demand dynamics: Domestic genre scenes like Fetching the Doctor appeal to collectors of social history and medical memorabilia as well as dedicated Rogers enthusiasts. Market appetite is steady but condition-sensitive.

• Value ranges (general guidance, North American market):

  • Strong, original-surface examples with minimal flaws: commonly mid-hundreds to low four figures.
  • Average examples with typical chips or minor repairs: lower-to-mid hundreds.
  • Heavily damaged or repainted: often under a few hundred.
  • Exceptional provenance, early castings with sharp detail, or unusually scarce variants: can reach higher four figures in the right venue.

• What lifts value:

  • Crisp detail, even patina, and absence of intrusive restorations.
  • Clear, legible inscriptions including title and address.
  • Early casting indications inferred from address variants and finish quality.
  • Provenance tied to period households, institutions, or documented exhibitions.

• What depresses value:

  • Metallic or heavy repaint that obscures detail.
  • Missing parts or misaligned, crude repairs.
  • Structural base cracks that threaten stability.
  • Ambiguity of title or subject due to illegible inscriptions.

• Where to find comparables:

  • Auction catalogues and sale results for Rogers Groups with domestic subjects.
  • Museum collection notes and historical catalogues that list titles and model years.
  • Specialty dealers in 19th-century American sculpture.

Appraisal Steps and Quick Collector’s Checklist

A disciplined approach makes the difference between a confident valuation and guesswork. Work through these steps:

• Confirm the subject and title:

  • Locate the title on the base. If worn, compare the figure arrangement to known Rogers domestic scenes to confirm it is Fetching the Doctor rather than a similar theme.

• Record all inscriptions:

  • Transcribe the sculptor’s signature, title, copyright/model year, and New York address exactly as they appear. Photograph the inscriptions straight-on and in raking light.

• Assess material and finish:

  • Verify plaster core at chips. Note whether the surface is an original tan patina or later paint.

• Condition survey:

  • Map chips, cracks, losses, and previous repairs. Check joints, wrists/ankles, and the base perimeter. Gently rock the object (without lifting) to test stability.

• Measure and weigh:

  • Height, width, and depth of the base; approximate weight. Variations are normal but extremes can suggest reproductions or restorations.

• Provenance and documentation:

  • Gather family history, receipts, restoration invoices, or old photographs that show the sculpture in situ.

• Comparator research:

  • Assemble three to five recent sales of the same model or closely related Rogers domestic scenes in comparable condition.

• Synthesize a value opinion:

  • Start with comparable median, then adjust for condition, originality, and provenance. Note a conservative replacement value versus a likely auction hammer range.

Practical checklist

• Identify title and verify “JOHN ROGERS” inscription.
• Photograph base inscriptions and overall views (front, sides, back, underside).
• Confirm plaster core; note any non-original paint.
• Document chips, cracks, and repairs on a simple diagram.
• Stabilize display environment; avoid handling by fragile elements.
• Research comparable sales for the same model and condition.
• If restoration is needed, obtain a conservator’s estimate before valuation.

FAQ

Q: My piece is painted in a shiny “bronze” color. Is that original? A: No. Rogers finished his plasters in a warm tan/buff surface. Later metallic repaints are common and generally reduce value by obscuring detail and originality.

Q: The base shows a date—does that prove an early casting? A: Not necessarily. The date typically records the model/copyright year. Later castings often retain the same date. Use address variants, surface quality, and inscriptions to infer relative casting period.

Q: Are bronze versions of Fetching the Doctor legitimate? A: Rogers is known for plaster groups. Bronze versions offered today are usually much later aftercasts or decorative reproductions, and they seldom carry the value or historical integrity of period plasters.

Q: Should I restore missing fingers or small losses? A: Minor, well-executed, reversible fills can be appropriate, especially on display-critical areas. However, over-restoration or full repainting hurts value. Seek a conservator’s proposal and weigh costs against expected market return.

Q: How large should Fetching the Doctor be? A: Rogers domestic groups typically range about 14–20 inches high with variations in width/depth based on composition. Slight dimensional differences between castings are normal.

With careful inspection, rigorous documentation, and conservative conservation, Fetching the Doctor can be appraised and preserved in a way that honors both its narrative power and its place in the broader story of American sculpture.