French Casino Set

French casino sets sit at the crossroads of gaming history, decorative arts, and social culture. For appraisers and collectors, they present a compelling mix of materials science, luxury cabinetmaking, and the peculiarities of gambling regulation in France. This guide explains what qualifies as a French casino set, how to identify and date examples, which makers and marks matter, how condition affects value, and how to care for pieces safely.

What Collectors Mean by a “French Casino Set”

The phrase “French casino set” encompasses several related categories that have different appraisal implications:

• Private club (cercle) and municipal casino chips and plaques: Round or octagonal jetons and rectangular plaques issued to specific French gambling clubs and casinos. Often Art Deco to postwar in style, with denominations in francs and venue names. High-end plaques were used for large stakes.
• Luxury game coffrets (nécessaires de jeu): Cased sets made by Parisian cabinetmakers, typically 19th to early 20th century, containing chips/counters, dice, cards, and sometimes dominoes or a travel roulette. Cases feature fine veneers, marquetry, shagreen, brass inlay, or Boulle-style work.
• Earlier gaming counters used in France: 18th- to early 19th-century mother-of-pearl or bone counters (often Chinese export, engraved with European monograms and crests) housed in French boxes, used for games such as quadrille or trictrac—sometimes marketed today as “casino sets,” though they predate modern casinos.

For valuation, specificity is everything: identify whether you have house-issued casino currency, a private luxury coffret, or a hybrid/assembled set.

A Brief Timeline and Types

• 18th–early 19th century: French households used engraved mother-of-pearl, bone, or ivory counters—many imported from Canton and customized with European monograms. Sets may live in French kingwood or tulipwood coffrets with ormolu mounts.
• Mid–late 19th century (Second Empire/Napoleon III): Parisian luxury cabinetmakers produce sophisticated game boxes. Interiors are fitted with trays for counters, dice shakers, and card cases; exteriors in ebonized wood, Boulle-style brass and tortoiseshell marquetry, or shagreen. Dominoes and card boxes appear alongside counters.
• Belle Époque–Interwar (c. 1890–1940): The rise of the Riviera resorts (Deauville, Cannes, Nice) and private cercles in Paris brings standardized house chips and rectangular plaques. Art Nouveau gives way to Art Deco typography and geometry. Early plastics enter the mix.
• Postwar–late 20th century: Continuation of casino jetons and plaques, often with more industrial production and security features (serial numbers, inlays). French cercles wax and wane with regulations; some clubs close and destroy currency, making survivors scarcer.

Many “French casino sets” encountered today are interwar Art Deco racks of plaques and jetons issued by a named house, or earlier luxury coffrets assembled for private play.

Materials and Manufacturing: What You’re Looking At

Understanding materials helps with dating, identification, and care.

• Mother-of-pearl (nacre): Common in 18th–19th c. counters; iridescent, engraved, and sometimes gilded or inked. Cool to the touch, no mold seams, and a layered nacreous structure visible at edges. Sensitive to acids and ammonia.
• Bone and ivory: Found in counters, dominoes, and inlays. Bone shows tiny pores and grain; ivory shows cross-hatching (Schreger lines) under magnification at 45–90 degrees. Ivory is subject to strict trade restrictions.
• Early plastics:
  • Celluloid (nitrocellulose with camphor, c. 1870s–1930s): Warm to touch, can fluoresce blue-white under UV. Often used for plaques and counters; susceptible to off-gassing and becoming brittle.
  • Galalith/casein (early 20th century): Milk-protein plastic; often matte with a “stone-like” feel; can fluoresce dull or not at all; doesn’t melt with heat like thermoplastics.
  • Phenolic resins (Bakelite, Catalin, c. 1920s onward): Dense, often marbled or opaque; characteristic clack; may show embedded inlays; generally more stable than celluloid.
• Composites/ceramics: Some plaques and jetons are compressed fiber or ceramic-like materials; later examples may resemble modern casino composites with embedded security features.
• Metals and woods: Luxury coffrets use brass, gilt bronze (ormolu), and locks by known hardware makers; woods include kingwood, rosewood, ebony, and macassar. Linings often in velvet or felt.

Manufacturing clues:

• Mold seams and gate marks suggest later molded plastics. Hand-lapped mother-of-pearl shows subtle irregularity in thickness and edge.
• Printed or hot-stamped denominations and club names: crisp, solvent-stable inks indicate quality; worn enameling is common but should be evaluated for over-restoration.
• Serial numbers and inserts: On higher-value plaques, serials and colored inlays appear (more common mid-century onward).

Makers, Clubs, and Marks That Matter

Knowing who made the set—or issued the currency—drives appraisal.

Luxury coffret cabinetmakers (mid-19th to early 20th c.):

• Tahan (Jean-Pierre and Alphonse Tahan), Paris: Celebrated for refined boxes; look for signed lock plates or paper labels.
• Maison Alphonse Giroux: High-end outfitter; paper labels and stamped hardware occur.
• Vervelle, Monbro, Paul Sormani, Aucoc: Parisian makers and retailers known for fine boxes. Retailers sometimes stocked boxes made by other ateliers—documentation can add value.

Casino currency makers:

• Bourgogne & Grasset (B&G), France (est. 1923): The key French supplier of plaques and jetons in the 20th century. Look for B&G marks or characteristic typography and chip construction. Later B&G became part of larger gaming supply groups.
• Other European suppliers existed, but B&G is the name most often encountered on French plaques/jetons collected today.

Issuing venues and club names:

• Riviera casinos: Deauville, Cannes, Nice, Vichy (municipal casinos). Plaques bearing these names and vivid Art Deco designs are sought after.
• Parisian cercles (private clubs): Names vary by era—some clubs were closed and their currency destroyed, so surviving plaques can be scarce. Expect venue names and addresses printed or inlaid.
• Monaco (Monte-Carlo): Not France but frequently included in collections; plaques from the Cercle des Étrangers à Monaco carry distinct market interest.

Marks and inscriptions to document:

• Denomination and currency (“F,” “FRANCS,” or post-1960 “N.F.” for nouveaux francs).
• House name/logo, sometimes with town.
• Manufacturer’s cartouche (e.g., B&G).
• Serial numbers on high-denomination plaques.
• For coffrets: retailer plaques, lockmaker stamps, and original keys.

Dating Clues and Appraisal Factors

Dating by denomination and design:

• Francs vs nouveaux francs: In 1960 France redenominated 100 old francs to 1 new franc. Plaques and jetons marked “N.F.” or with modest numbers (e.g., 10, 20, 50 without “000”) likely post-1960; large denominations like 1,000 or 5,000 (without “N.F.”) often pre-1960.
• Typography and graphics: Bold sans-serifs, geometric borders, and contrasting fields point to 1920s–1930s Art Deco. Art Nouveau flourishes suggest pre-1914.
• Material evolution: Celluloid dominance fades after the 1930s; phenolic resins and composite laminates rise mid-century.

Completeness:

• Original racks, trays, and the full intended range of denominations elevate value. Mismatched colors or fonts can indicate an assembled set.
• For coffrets, fitted trays, matching counters, and the original key/lockset matter. A roulette cloth or wheel in miniature suggests a more specialized set.

Provenance:

• Documentation from a closed club, auction labels, or correspondence linking a set to a known venue substantially boosts desirability.
• Beware of “married” sets where plaques from several houses are presented in a non-original box.

Rarity and design:

• High-denomination plaques in excellent condition, particularly from storied venues, can be individually valuable.
• Exceptional cabinetmaking (Boulle marquetry, shagreen, macassar veneers) with a signed Parisian maker commands a premium.

Condition, Completeness, and Conservation

Condition grading:

• Chips and jetons: Assess edge nicks, warping, color fade, and legibility of denominations. Check for cleaning that has abraded printed elements.
• Plaques: Look for cracks (especially in celluloid), delamination, heat distortion, or off-gassing odors (camphor from celluloid). Verify serial numbers remain sharp.
• Coffrets: Check veneer lifting, missing brass stringing, warped lids, relined interiors, and replaced hardware. Original finishes are preferred.

Safe handling and storage:

• Celluloid: Keep cool, dry, and well-ventilated. Avoid enclosed airtight storage; isolate from metals and paper to prevent corrosion from off-gassing. Do not display under hot lights.
• Mother-of-pearl and bone/ivory: Avoid acids and ammonia. Dust with a soft brush; clean gently with slightly damp microfiber and pH-neutral soap only if necessary.
• Phenolic resins: Stable, but avoid aggressive solvents. Mild soap and water, quick dry.
• Cases: Maintain stable humidity (40–55%) and temperature (16–22°C). Use inert padding (EVA/Volara) in drawers. Monitor and mitigate odors—celluloid decomposition can accelerate in confined boxes.

What not to do:

• No hot-pin tests on plastics (destructive and unsafe).
• No ultrasonic cleaners for printed plaques.
• No over-polishing of brass; leave honest patina unless corrosion threatens integrity.
• Don’t reline interiors with acidic felt; use archival materials if conservation is needed.

Market Values and Rarity: What to Expect

Values vary widely by type, issuer, completeness, and design quality. Broad ranges as a starting point:

• Individual French plaques (interwar Art Deco, well-known houses): approximately $150–800 for mid-denominations; $1,000–3,000+ for rare high-denomination or iconic designs in excellent condition.
• Racks of mixed jetons from a single house (20–100 pieces): roughly $300–1,200 depending on venue, condition, and materials.
• Complete Art Deco casino sets in a period case (racks of plaques and jetons, matching denominations): often $2,000–10,000, with exceptional or Riviera-named sets higher.
• 19th-century luxury coffrets (Tahan, Giroux, Sormani) with original counters, dice, and card cases: approximately $3,000–15,000+, with top-tier marquetry and signed examples achieving more.
• Early mother-of-pearl counter sets in French boxes (not casino-issued): generally $800–4,000, higher with aristocratic monograms and complete suites.

These are indicative, not prescriptive. Fresh-to-market provenance, documented club closures, or best-of-type design can exceed typical ranges.

Legal and Ethical Considerations

• Ivory and tortoiseshell: Strictly regulated for trade. Many jurisdictions ban cross-border sale except under narrow exemptions with documentation (antique status, pre-convention proof). Verify local laws before offering.
• Celluloid hazards: Nitrocellulose is flammable and can self-degrade; store responsibly and disclose material when selling.
• Cultural property/export: France requires export certificates for certain antiques over a defined age and value threshold. Vendors and appraisers should verify whether a set requires clearance.
• Gambling memorabilia laws: Generally collectible; however, using period currency in an operating gambling context is illegal. Ensure items are sold strictly as collectibles.

A Practical Appraisal Checklist

• Identify the type: house-issued plaques/jetons, luxury coffret, or early counters in a French box.
• Record every inscription: venue, denomination, currency notation (F or N.F.), serial numbers, maker’s marks (e.g., B&G), retailer plaques.
• Measure and photograph: diameter/length/width/thickness; consistent sizes across denominations support originality.
• Material assessment: nacre vs bone/ivory; celluloid vs phenolic vs galalith; note any off-gassing odors or warping.
• Condition grading: chips/nicks, print legibility, cracks, discoloration, veneer lifting, hardware replacements.
• Completeness: confirm range and counts of denominations; original trays/racks; presence of keys and accessories.
• Provenance: preserve invoices, club paperwork, auction labels, and oral history when available.
• Legal check: screen for restricted materials (ivory/tortoiseshell) and export requirements; plan compliant sale routes.
• Conservation plan: isolate celluloid, stabilize the environment, avoid harsh cleaning, and consider professional restoration for structural issues only.

FAQ

Q: How can I tell if a plaque is French and not a modern reproduction? A: Start with the venue name and denomination style. French plaques carry franc denominations and typically the house name. Interwar examples show Art Deco design and period typography. Look for manufacturer marks such as B&G and, on higher denominations, serial numbers. Modern reproductions often lack correct materials, period wear, and consistent printing techniques; their colors and fonts can look “too new” or anachronistic under magnification.

Q: Are early mother-of-pearl counters considered “casino” items? A: Not in the modern sense. They were household gaming counters for card games, popular in France and England in the 18th–early 19th centuries. They are collectible and sometimes housed in French coffrets but predate municipal casinos and private cercles. Value them for craftsmanship and completeness rather than house-issued casino provenance.

Q: What sizes are typical for French plaques and jetons? A: Round jetons often range around 35–40 mm diameter and 3–4 mm thick. Rectangular plaques commonly measure roughly 60×40 mm to 80×50 mm, thickness 3–5 mm. High-denomination plaques can be larger. Consistency across a set supports originality, but expect minor variation from hand finishing or different production runs.

Q: My set smells like camphor—should I worry? A: A camphor-like odor often indicates celluloid (nitrocellulose) decomposing. Isolate those items from metals and paper, ensure cool, ventilated storage, and monitor closely. Decomposition can accelerate and is a fire risk in extreme cases. Document material in any appraisal and advise clients about safe handling.

Q: Can I clean tarnished brass trim and brighten the pieces? A: Proceed cautiously. Over-polishing removes original finish and can hurt value. Use a mild, non-abrasive approach and avoid getting polish on adjacent veneers or plastics. For plaques and jetons, never use solvents on printed areas. When in doubt, consult a conservator, especially with signed Parisian coffrets or fragile celluloid components.

By combining careful material analysis, attention to issuing marks, and sensitivity to conservation and legal constraints, appraisers can distinguish ordinary gaming ephemera from exceptional French casino sets worthy of top-tier collections.