Estate-Sale Ceramics: 9 Types You’ll See Constantly
Estate-sale ceramics can be tricky because “old pottery” covers everything from everyday stoneware to collector-grade porcelain. The fastest way to narrow value is to identify the type first—then zoom in on condition, glaze, and the base/foot for marks. Use this collage as a quick visual starting point, then take detail photos that prove what you’re holding. Small issues (rim chips, hairlines, restoration, heavy wear) often matter more than age alone.
Legend (tiles 1–9)
- Blue-and-white porcelain jar — check translucency and fine painting; photograph rim chips, any lid, and the base mark area (even if it’s faint).
- Majolica-style pitcher — relief texture and glossy glaze are key; take close-ups of chips, crazing, and any repairs or overpaint.
- English transferware plate — capture the scene/pattern close-up, rim wear, and the underside/backstamp zone (where makers and dates often live).
- Salt-glazed stoneware crock — look for the orange-peel texture and cobalt decoration; photograph cracks, old repairs, and the interior (staining can matter).
- Raku tea bowl — show crackle patterns, smoky reduction marks, and any foot wear; take raking-light photos for hairlines.
- Delft / tin-glazed tile — focus on surface crackle and edge chips; photograph corners and the back (sometimes stamped or numbered).
- Mid-century modern vase — silhouette and glaze finish matter; photograph the base/foot ring and any incised signature or studio mark.
- Celadon bowl — capture the glaze tone and carved underpattern; photograph the foot and unglazed areas (clay body helps identify origin/period).
- Folk / art pottery mug — throwing rings and glaze drips are typical; shoot the handle join, lip chips, and any maker mark under the base.
Want an ID + value estimate?
Upload a few photos (full view, rim/lip, base/foot, and close-ups of marks or signatures) and we’ll help identify what you have, estimate market value, and flag condition issues that impact price.
Start an appraisalFAQ
How do I tell porcelain from earthenware or stoneware at an estate sale?
Use a strong light: porcelain is often more translucent at thin edges, while earthenware is usually opaque and feels “softer” in the body. Stoneware is typically heavier/denser and often has an unglazed foot ring with a gritty clay look. When in doubt, photograph the unglazed base and any chips—those clay-body clues are diagnostic.
Is crazing (fine crackle) in the glaze a problem?
It depends. Light, even crazing can be normal for age, but heavy crazing can hold stains and sometimes signals structural weakness. Collectors price condition heavily—clear close-ups help separate harmless age from damage or restoration.
What ceramic details change value the most?
Condition (chips, hairlines, repairs), rarity of form/decoration, and clear maker identification are the big three. A readable mark or signature can move an item from “nice decorative” to “collectible,” while a hidden repair can drop value fast.
What photos should I take for a ceramics appraisal?
Take one full view, then close-ups of the rim/lip, any chips or cracks, the base/foot ring, and any mark/signature. Add a glaze close-up (crazing/crackle), and include a scale reference (ruler or coin) for small pieces.