His Majesty’s Levee Dress Uniform Button

For collectors and appraisers, few small objects carry as much heraldic authority as a levee dress uniform button. Worn on the coats of gentlemen and officials presented at the monarch’s daytime court reception—“the levee”—these gilt buttons broadcast allegiance to the Crown while signaling rank, appointment, and taste. Today, they are among the most approachable, well-documented, and deceptively nuanced subfields in British militaria and court costume collecting.

This guide explains what constitutes a His Majesty’s levee dress uniform button, how to read the face and reverse for dating and attribution, what construction details matter, typical value bands, and how to care for your finds.

What Exactly Is a Levee Dress Uniform Button?

“Levee dress” refers to formal daytime court attire worn at royal levees, distinct from evening “court dress” and from military full dress or mess dress. Across the long arc of the 19th and early 20th centuries, levees were attended by military officers, civil officials, diplomats, and gentlemen. Buttons for levee dress fall into two broad groups:

• Civil court uniform buttons: These typically display the Royal Arms of the United Kingdom—shield with quartered arms within the Garter, supported by lion and unicorn—beneath the crown, often with the royal motto “Dieu et mon Droit” on a scroll. They were used on civilian “Court Uniform” (the five classes prescribed in Dress Regulations) and on liveries for certain Royal Household roles.

• Military levee order buttons: When officers attended levees in military levee dress, they wore their regimental pattern buttons, not the generic Royal Arms. Those are identifiable by regiment-specific devices, numerals, or badges, still surmounted by a crown.

Dealers and older catalogs sometimes label any Royal Arms gilt button as a “His Majesty’s levee button.” In practice, most such buttons with the full arms are court uniform or Royal Household/livery rather than purely military.

Reading the Face: Arms, Crowns, Cyphers, and Detail

The face carries most of the storyline. Key elements:

• Royal Arms: The quartered shield (England, Scotland, Ireland), encircled by the Garter with “Honi soit qui mal y pense,” flanked by lion and unicorn, rests above a motto scroll. Officer-quality buttons show crisp, layered relief: sharp lion’s mane, legible garter lettering, and beaded rims.

• Royal cypher: Some levee and staff buttons show a crowned royal cypher (e.g., VR, E VII R, GvR, GviR) rather than the full arms. Cypher buttons often indicate military staff, specific departments, or Household appointments.

• Crown type: Crown silhouette is a powerful dating tool.

  • Victoria (1837–1901): A tall “Queen’s Crown” or Imperial State Crown form, often with a higher arch and more open outline.
  • Edward VII, George V, George VI (1901–1952): The Tudor Crown (“King’s Crown”) becomes standard across insignia—broader base, rounded cap, lower profile.
  • Elizabeth II (1953–2022): St Edward’s Crown replaces the Tudor Crown. If you see this crown with “E II R,” it is not a “His Majesty’s” piece.
  • Charles III (2022–): New cypher “C IIIR” with stylized Tudor Crown in some applications. Levees in the historic sense are not in regular use, so modern court buttons are distinct.

• Marginal devices: Rims can be plain, reeded, or beaded; wreaths or small rosettes sometimes appear. Generally, the more ornate the rim and the sharper the detail, the higher the grade.

• Finish: Levee and court dress buttons are typically gilt brass—either bright gilt or a richer, “old gold” tone. Early and officer-grade examples exhibit thick gilding that resists wear on highest points.

Tip: Many authentic court uniform buttons present a dignified but not gaudy sheen; mirror-bright plating with shallow, soft detail suggests later reproductions.

Backmarks and Dating: Makers Tell Time

Turn every button over. The backmark, construction, and loop style are central to identification and age estimation. Common makers and dating cues include:

• Firmin & Sons (London/Birmingham): One of the oldest button makers. Backmarks appear as “FIRMIN & SONS LONDON,” later “FIRMIN & SONS Ld,” and 20th-century variants with “LTD.” Presence of “Ld” or “Ltd” generally indicates late 19th century onward.

• J.R. Gaunt & Son: Established 1884. Early marks read “J.R. GAUNT & SON LONDON,” later “LTD” is added (early 20th c.). Some show “J.R. GAUNT & SON LTD LONDON ENGLAND” in a circular cartouche.

• Jennens & Co: Prominent mid- to late-19th century into early 20th. Look for “JENNENS & CO LONDON” or “JENNENS & CO LONDON EXTRA RICH.” The “Extra Rich” line is premium officer quality and a strong indicator of 19th-century manufacture.

• Pitt & Co: London maker-retailer. Variants include “PITT & CO 31 MADDOX ST LONDON.” Active late 19th–early 20th centuries.

• Buttons Ltd (Birmingham): Typically 1910s–1920s. Marked “BUTTONS LTD BIRMINGHAM.”

• Smith & Wright Ltd; Cheney; etc.: Predominantly 20th century. Often associated with service-grade (non-officer) quality.

• Tailors’ marks: Occasionally buttons were produced for retailers such as “HAWKES & CO,” “GIEVES,” or “MOSS BROS.” These can help narrow context but are less consistent for precise dating than manufacturer marks.

Backmark styling helps bracket dates: the use of “Ltd/Ld,” the address line (Maddox St., Piccadilly, etc.), and typography. Combined with crown type and cypher, you can often place a button within a decade or two.

Loop and back construction also date pieces:

• One-piece, solid back with brazed wire shank: Common earlier in the 19th century.
• Two-piece, crimped or soldered back with raised rim and central “pie-crust” shank base: Late 19th into early 20th.
• Tinned iron or steel backs (often magnetically responsive) with brass fronts: Common in later, economy, or livery-grade production; vulnerable to rust.

Materials, Sizes, and Quality Tiers

• Material: Officer-grade levee/court buttons are typically die-struck gilt brass. Some Royal Household and livery examples exist in silver or silver-plated brass; in rare cases, hallmarked silver appears on ceremonial liveries. Steel-cored, brass-plated fronts are later and less desirable.

• Size system: Buttons are measured in lignes (L), where 40L equals 1 inch (25.4 mm).

  • Coat front (largest): 36–40L (approx. 22.9–25.4 mm)
  • Waistcoat: 24–30L (approx. 15.2–19.1 mm)
  • Cuff/sleeve: 16–22L (approx. 10.2–14.0 mm) A complete levee/court set includes a mix of these sizes. Matching sets command a premium.

• Quality cues:

  • Crisp die work—the garter lettering should be fully legible.
  • Thick, even gilding; wear should reveal warm brass, not white metal.
  • Clean, firmly attached shank with no wobble.
  • Backmark struck deeply and evenly, sometimes within a beaded or rope cartouche on higher-grade examples.
  • “EXTRA RICH” or “SUPERFINE” indicates top-tier manufacture.

Rarity, Desirability, and Market Values

Value depends on subject, age, maker, size, and condition.

• Common court uniform Royal Arms buttons (Edward VII–George VI, Tudor Crown), single examples in good gilt: often trade in the $20–60 range.
• Victorian (VR) crowned arms or cypher buttons with premium backmarks (Jennens “Extra Rich,” early Firmin): $40–120 per button, more for large 40L examples in near-mint gilt.
• Edward VIII (1936) cypher buttons are genuinely scarce due to the short reign: $100–250+ per button, with top prices for large sizes and officer grade.
• Royal Household/livery buttons specifically attributable to departments (Lord Chamberlain’s Office, Royal Mews, Gentlemen-at-Arms) can reach $80–200 each when crisp and attributable.
• Matched sets (complete coat fronts plus waistcoat and cuff in one pattern) amplify value significantly—multiples of single-button value. Expect $200–600 for an attractive, matched small set; substantially more for rare cyphers or silver.
• Service-grade, steel-backed, or heavily worn examples may fall in the $10–25 range.

Factors that move the needle:

• Provenance to a known court tailor or owner.
• Uncommon sizes or special-order finishes.
• Period-correct assembly on original uniform remnants.

Authentication and Reproductions

Reproductions abound—costume houses and souvenir makers have produced Royal Arms buttons for decades. Tell-tales of modern pieces include:

• Soft, “melted” detail; garter text blurs into the field.
• Ultra-bright, lacquered gold tone with no depth to the gilding.
• Generic backmarks like “MADE IN ENGLAND” without a maker, or no backmark at all.
• Lightweight, thin shells or plated steel fronts that attract a magnet.
• Casting seams; authentic buttons are die-struck, not cast.

There are also legitimate restrikes by original firms for theatrical or ceremonial use; these can occupy a gray zone—well-made, but not period. They typically carry modernized maker marks (e.g., contemporary Firmin) and lack the patina of age.

Care, Storage, and Conservation

• Cleaning: Avoid abrasives and power-polishing. A light soak in distilled water with a drop of mild soap, followed by gentle brushing with a soft natural-bristle brush, removes grime. Dry thoroughly. Gilt survives careful handling; over-cleaning erases original finish and value.

• Verdigris: Isolate any button showing green copper salts. Treat locally with a cotton swab lightly moistened with a 1:1 mix of distilled water and isopropyl alcohol, then dry. Severe cases may require a conservator.

• Coatings: If you must stabilize, use a reversible microcrystalline wax applied sparingly. Do not lacquer; it can discolor and is hard to remove.

• Storage: Keep in acid-free trays or boxes with inert foam or card inserts. Maintain low humidity (~40–50%), stable temperatures, and avoid proximity to sulfur-emitting materials (rubber bands, wool felt) that tarnish metals.

• Mounting: If displaying, support by the shank; do not glue. Avoid prolonged direct sunlight that can amplify temperature and accelerate degradation.

A Practical Checklist for Appraisers and Collectors

• Identify the motif: Royal Arms vs cypher vs regiment.
• Check the crown shape to bracket reign (Queen’s Crown vs Tudor Crown).
• Read the backmark: maker, “Ld/Ltd,” addresses—note exact wording.
• Examine construction: one-piece vs two-piece, shank type, seam quality.
• Measure diameter in lignes; note if multiple sizes match as a set.
• Assess detail sharpness and gilding depth; compare to known officer quality.
• Test gently with a magnet to detect steel-backed economy types.
• Look for signs of reproduction: soft detail, generic or absent backmarks, casting marks.
• Record provenance and tailor associations if present.
• Value by rarity (e.g., Edward VIII), maker, size, completeness, and condition.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What’s the difference between levee dress buttons and full court dress buttons? A: Both can feature the Royal Arms and look similar. Levee dress refers to daytime wear; full court dress applies to evening events. The same pattern of Royal Arms button often served both contexts on civil uniforms, so identification relies more on pattern, maker, and period than on a strict levee/full distinction.

Q: Are Edward VIII buttons always valuable? A: They are scarcer and generally command a premium, but condition and quality still matter. A crisp, large, officer-grade Edward VIII cypher button is desirable; a worn, economy-grade example is less so.

Q: How do I safely remove verdigris? A: Isolate the piece, mechanically lift loose accretions with a wooden toothpick under magnification, then swab locally with a minimal amount of distilled water/isopropyl alcohol. Dry thoroughly. For heavy, active corrosion, consult a conservator to avoid lifting the gilding.

Q: Should I polish gilt buttons? A: Avoid metal polishes; they strip gilding and soften detail. Gentle cleaning only. A small amount of microcrystalline wax can enhance luster and provide protection without altering the surface.

Q: Do backmarks with “Ltd” guarantee a 20th-century date? A: They strongly suggest late 19th to 20th century, but firms adopted “Ltd” at different times. Use “Ltd/Ld” in combination with crown type, cypher, and stylistic elements for a confident date range.

By learning to read crown shapes, cyphers, and backmarks—and by handling enough examples to recognize quality—you can confidently identify and appraise His Majesty’s levee dress uniform buttons. These small, gilded disks compress centuries of ceremonial tradition into the palm of your hand, offering collectors both rich history and rewarding connoisseurship.