Discover how much your vintage Dooney & Bourke purse is worth with our expert authentication tips, price guides, and collector insights for accurate valuation.
By Appraisily TeamLast updated November 7, 2023
Vintage Dooney & Bourke purses are highly sought after by collectors for their quality craftsmanship and timeless designs
Since their founding in 1975, Dooney & Bourke has established itself as an iconic American luxury handbag brand known for exceptional craftsmanship and distinctive designs. Vintage Dooney & Bourke purses have become increasingly collectible, with certain rare models and limited editions commanding impressive prices in today’s resale market.
If you’ve discovered an old Dooney & Bourke bag in your closet or at a thrift store, you might be wondering about its value. In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore what makes these vintage purses valuable, how to authenticate them, and what you can expect your bag to be worth in today’s market.
<h2 class="section-header__title">
<span>What Makes Vintage Dooney & Bourke Purses Valuable?</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">Several factors contribute to the value of vintage Dooney & Bourke handbags, from rarity to condition. Understanding these elements is crucial for accurate valuation.</div>
The value of vintage Dooney & Bourke purses varies significantly based on several key factors:
Age and Era - Bags from the earliest years (late 1970s to 1980s) typically command higher prices
Collection and Style - All Weather Leather (AWL) bags from the original collections are especially prized
Condition - Minimal wear, intact hardware, and clean interiors dramatically impact value
Completeness - Original dust bags, authenticity cards, and hang tags add value
Demand - Popular styles like the Cavalry, Equestrian, or Duck collections have retained strong collector interest
Vintage Dooney & Bourke Market Highlights
Dooney & Bourke Brand Evolution & Value Milestones
1975
Brand Founding
Peter Dooney and Frederic Bourke establish the company, initially focusing on men's accessories before expanding to women's handbags.
1981
All Weather Leather (AWL) Introduction
The iconic AWL line debuts, featuring water-resistant pebbled leather and distinctive tan trim. These are now among the most collectible vintage pieces.
Late 1980s
Expansion of Collections
Introduction of the popular Cavalry, Equestrian, and Duck collections, which remain highly sought after by collectors today.
1990s
Introduction of Signature Fabrics
The brand begins producing signature logo print fabric bags alongside leather collections, diversifying their offerings.
2000s
Collaborations Begin
Partnership with Disney and other brands creates limited edition collections that have become extremely collectible.
<h2 class="section-header__title">
<span>Most Valuable Vintage Dooney & Bourke Collections</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">Certain collections and styles from Dooney & Bourke’s history are particularly prized by collectors and command premium prices in today’s market.</div>
All Weather Leather (AWL) Collection
The AWL collection represents Dooney & Bourke’s original claim to fame and remains their most collectible line. These bags feature:
Thick, pebbled leather with a distinctive texture
Weather-resistant properties
Classic British tan trim and solid brass hardware
Often featuring the iconic duck emblem
The AWL collection includes various styles like satchels, shoulder bags, and crossbody designs. Early examples with red and blue AWL tags are particularly valuable, often selling for $200-500 depending on condition and rarity.
Cavalry Collection
The Cavalry Collection is distinguished by:
Structured, equestrian-inspired designs
Saddle-shaped flaps with brass closures
Available in both solid colors and two-tone combinations
Rare colors in excellent condition can fetch $175-300, with the iconic red Cavalry Saddle Bag being especially sought after.
Gladstone and Doctor’s Bag Styles
These structured, professional styles are among the most valuable vintage Dooney & Bourke designs:
Classic doctor’s bag shape with wide opening
Sophisticated brass hardware and leather handles
Spacious interior with multiple compartments
In excellent condition, these bags regularly sell between $150-300, with rare colors or limited editions sometimes exceeding $500.
Alto Collection
The Italian-made Alto Collection represents Dooney & Bourke’s high-end offering:
Smooth, fine-grain leather (different from the pebbled AWL)
Minimalist designs with understated elegance
Made in Italy rather than the USA
Alto Collection bags in good condition typically sell for $200-400, with rare pieces commanding even higher prices.
Vintage Dooney & Bourke Price Ranges
Current market values based on recent sales data (2023-2024)
Category
Price
Notes
All Weather Leather Satchels
$150-$350
Higher for rare colors or mint condition
Cavalry Collection Bags
$175-$300
Red and navy colors command premium prices
Gladstone Doctor's Bags
$200-$500
Exceptional examples can exceed this range
Alto Collection (Made in Italy)
$200-$400
Premium for original packaging
Signature Print Canvas Bags
$75-$200
Less valuable than leather collections
Limited Edition Disney Collaborations
$100-$600+
Highly variable based on design and rarity
Rare Colors/Limited Editions
$300-$800+
Extremely condition-dependent
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<h2 class="section-header__title">
<span>How to Authenticate a Vintage Dooney & Bourke Purse</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">Before determining value, it’s essential to confirm your bag’s authenticity. Counterfeit Dooney & Bourke bags have been common since the brand gained popularity.</div>
Authenticating your vintage Dooney & Bourke bag is crucial before assessing its value. Here are the key authentication markers to examine:
Dooney & Bourke Authentication Checklist
Use this checklist to verify if your vintage Dooney & Bourke purse is authentic
Check for the red, white and blue tag with 'Dooney & Bourke' inside the bag
Verify the bag has a unique serial number on the back of the tag
Examine stitching quality - should be even, straight and tight
Look for the duck emblem logo (on applicable models)
Check for solid brass hardware with 'Dooney & Bourke' engraving
Verify leather quality - pebbled texture on AWL bags should be consistent
Confirm interior lining matches the appropriate era
Look for 'Made in USA' or 'Made in Italy' stamps (where applicable)
The Serial Number System
Vintage Dooney & Bourke bags come with a serial number that can help authenticate and date the bag:
Format: A letter followed by a sequence of numbers (e.g., A7 123456)
Location: Found on the back of the interior tag
Date Codes: While not explicitly date codes, the letter-number combinations generally correspond to production periods
For older bags (pre-1990s), you may find:
Simple embossed labels rather than sewn-in tags
“Made in USA” stamps without serial numbers
Very early pieces might have minimal branding
Materials and Craftsmanship
Authentic Dooney & Bourke bags are characterized by:
Hardware: Solid brass hardware with substantial weight
Leather: High-quality, thick leather (in AWL collections)
Stitching: Tight, even stitching with no loose threads
Weight: Generally heavier than counterfeit versions
Interior: Clean, well-finished interiors with appropriate lining for the era
Duck Emblem and Logo
The duck emblem is a signature element on many vintage Dooney & Bourke designs:
Details should be crisp and well-defined
Proper placement according to the particular model
Consistent size relative to the bag
<h2 class="section-header__title">
<span>Condition Assessment for Valuation</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">The condition of a vintage Dooney & Bourke purse dramatically impacts its value, often more than any other factor. Here’s how to properly evaluate condition.</div>
Condition is paramount when determining the value of vintage Dooney & Bourke purses. Even rare models will see significant value reduction if in poor condition. Here’s how to assess condition:
Exterior Leather Assessment
Mint/Near Mint (Highest Value): Like-new appearance with minimal to no signs of use; original shine and color vibrancy; no scratches, scuffs, or corner wear
Excellent: Very light wear; minor corner rubs possible; no significant scuffs or scratches; color remains vibrant
Very Good: Shows normal signs of use; some corner wear; minor scuffs or scratches; leather remains supple
Good: Noticeable wear throughout; corner wear evident; color may show fading or patina; hardware may show tarnishing
Fair/Poor (Lowest Value): Extensive wear; may have damage to leather; significant color loss; hardware issues
Interior Condition Factors
The interior condition is just as important as the exterior:
Check for stains, pen marks, or makeup residue
Assess the integrity of pockets and compartments
Look for torn linings or loose seams
Examine interior leather trim for wear or damage
Hardware Evaluation
Hardware condition significantly impacts value:
Brass should maintain its finish with minimal tarnishing
Zippers should function smoothly
Clasps and closures should work properly
All hardware should be original (replacement parts decrease value)
Restoration Considerations
Consider whether restoration might improve value:
Light cleaning is generally acceptable
Major restoration can sometimes reduce collector value
Original patina is often desirable to collectors
Professional restoration is preferable to DIY attempts
Value Adjustments Based on Condition
A mint condition vintage Dooney & Bourke bag may sell for full market value, while condition issues reduce value as follows:
Excellent condition: 80-100% of maximum value
Very Good condition: 60-80% of maximum value
Good condition: 40-60% of maximum value
Fair condition: 20-40% of maximum value
Poor condition: Below 20% of maximum value (often only valuable for parts)
Recent Vintage Dooney & Bourke Auction Results
Notable sales from 2023-2024
Item
Price
Date
Auction House
AWL Cavalry Saddle Bag (Red)
$175
October 2023
eBay
Vintage Gladstone Satchel (Navy/Tan)
$289
January 2024
Etsy
Alto Collection Shoulder Bag (Black)
$345
March 2024
Collector's Auction
Rare AWL Doctors Bag (British Tan)
$500
November 2023
Vintage Fashion Auction
Early Big Duck Coin Purse (Navy/Tan)
$235
February 2024
Etsy
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<h2 class="section-header__title">
<span>Where to Sell Vintage Dooney & Bourke Purses</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">Choosing the right marketplace can significantly impact the price you’ll receive for your vintage Dooney & Bourke bag.</div>
Once you’ve authenticated and assessed your bag’s condition, you’ll want to choose the right selling platform:
Online Marketplaces
eBay: The largest audience but higher competition; ideal for rarer models
Etsy: Good for vintage collectors willing to pay premium prices
Poshmark: Fashion-focused with active vintage handbag buyers
Mercari: Growing platform with lower fees than some competitors
Facebook Marketplace: Good for local sales to avoid shipping costs
Specialized Vintage Sites
Vintage Dooney: Specialized site dealing exclusively in vintage Dooney & Bourke pieces
TheRealReal: Consignment platform for authenticated designer items
Rebag: Luxury handbag reseller that purchases directly
Physical Venues
Consignment Shops: Local luxury consignment stores often have knowledgeable clientele
Vintage Fashion Shows: Collector-focused events can bring premium prices
Antique Malls: Some specialize in vintage fashion and accessories
Selling Tips
Professional Photography: Quality images showing all details increase value
Detailed Descriptions: Include condition assessment, measurements, and authentication points
Include Provenance: Original receipts or documentation can increase value
Timing Matters: The vintage market has seasonal fluctuations
<h2 class="section-header__title">
<span>Investing in Vintage Dooney & Bourke</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">Some collectors view vintage Dooney & Bourke bags as investments. Here’s what to look for if you’re collecting for potential appreciation.</div>
For those interested in collecting vintage Dooney & Bourke as an investment, consider focusing on:
Most Investment-Worthy Collections
Early AWL Pieces (1980s): The earliest examples of All Weather Leather bags, especially in unusual colors or with original tags and dust bags
Limited Production Models: Bags made in smaller quantities or for specific markets
Discontinued Colors: Certain colors were produced briefly and are now highly collectible, including:
Hunter Green
Taupe
Bone
Rouge Red
Special Collaborations: Early collaborations, especially limited editions
Made in USA Models: As production has increasingly moved overseas, the original American-made pieces have gained collector interest
Storage for Preservation
Proper storage is essential to maintain value:
Store in original dust bags if available
Use acid-free tissue paper to maintain shape
Keep in climate-controlled environments
Avoid direct sunlight to prevent color fading
Apply leather conditioner sparingly and only when needed
Market Trends to Watch
The vintage Dooney & Bourke market has shown several trends:
Increasing interest in 1980s and early 1990s pieces
Growing international collector base, especially in Asia
Premium prices for complete sets with accessories
Strong demand for unusual color combinations
Rising prices for mint condition examples
Common Questions About Vintage Dooney & Bourke Values
How can I tell if my Dooney & Bourke purse is authentic?
Look for the red, blue, and white fabric tag in the bag's interior with "Dooney & Bourke" on it. Authentic bags will have a unique serial number on the reverse of this tag. Also examine the quality of leather, stitching, and hardware—authentic Dooney & Bourke bags feature solid brass hardware, tight stitching, and high-quality leather with consistent texture. The duck emblem (when present) should be crisp and well-defined.
Which vintage Dooney & Bourke bags are the most valuable?
The most valuable vintage Dooney & Bourke bags include:
Early All Weather Leather (AWL) bags from the 1980s
Gladstone and Doctor’s Bag styles in rare colors
Cavalry Collection pieces in excellent condition
Alto Collection bags made in Italy
Limited edition or discontinued colors like Hunter Green or Taupe
Rare collaborations and special editions
Condition is paramount—even the rarest bags lose significant value if they’re in poor condition.
What does the serial number on my Dooney & Bourke bag mean?
The serial number on a Dooney & Bourke bag typically consists of a letter followed by a sequence of numbers (e.g., A7 123456). While not explicitly date codes, these numbers do generally correspond to production periods and can help authenticate your bag. The serial number is unique to your bag and can be used to register it on the Dooney & Bourke website. For vintage authenticity purposes, the presence and format of the serial number can help date the bag to a specific era.
Are Dooney & Bourke signature print canvas bags valuable?
Signature print canvas bags are generally less valuable than the leather collections, particularly the All Weather Leather series. They typically sell in the $75-$200 range depending on condition and style. However, limited edition canvas patterns or special collaborations (like Disney collections) can command higher prices, sometimes exceeding $300-$600 for rare designs in excellent condition. Canvas bags from the 1990s are gradually gaining more collector interest as they become vintage.
Where is the best place to sell a vintage Dooney & Bourke purse?
The best selling platforms for vintage Dooney & Bourke bags include:
eBay: Largest audience but competitive marketplace
Etsy: Good for reaching vintage fashion collectors
Specialized sites like Vintage Dooney: Target collector audience
Poshmark or Mercari: Fashion-focused with active vintage buyers
Consignment shops: For local sales without shipping hassles
For rare or high-value pieces, specialized vintage fashion auctions or luxury consignment platforms like TheRealReal may bring premium prices.
How much does condition affect the value of a vintage Dooney & Bourke bag?
Condition dramatically impacts value—often more than any other factor. A mint condition bag may sell for full market value, while condition issues reduce value on a sliding scale:
Excellent: 80-100% of maximum value
Very Good: 60-80% of maximum value
Good: 40-60% of maximum value
Fair: 20-40% of maximum value
Poor: Below 20% of maximum value
Specific issues like color fading, corner wear, interior stains, or hardware problems can each reduce value incrementally.
Do Dooney & Bourke bags appreciate in value over time?
Some vintage Dooney & Bourke bags have appreciated in value, particularly:
Early AWL pieces from the 1980s
Discontinued styles or colors
Limited editions and collaborations
Bags in mint or near-mint condition with original accessories
However, not all models appreciate—mass-produced styles or those with condition issues typically don’t gain value. The best investment pieces are rare models stored properly and maintained in excellent condition.
How can I find out when my vintage Dooney & Bourke bag was made?
While Dooney & Bourke doesn't use explicit date codes, you can estimate production period by:
Examining the tag style (different eras had different tag designs)
Looking at the serial number format
Noting "Made in USA" vs. "Made in Italy" or other countries
Researching when specific collections or colors were released
Checking interior details like lining patterns that changed over time
For the most accurate assessment, specialists at VintageDooney.com or collector forums can often help date a bag based on multiple identifying features.
Further Resources for Vintage Dooney & Bourke Collectors
<span>Conclusion: Is Your Vintage Dooney & Bourke a Hidden Treasure?</span>
</h2>
<div class="section-header__body">The enduring appeal of vintage Dooney & Bourke purses reflects their quality craftsmanship and timeless designs.</div>
Vintage Dooney & Bourke purses remain highly sought after for their durability, classic designs, and American heritage. While not every vintage bag will command premium prices, certain collections—particularly early All Weather Leather pieces, Gladstone styles, and rare colorways—continue to appreciate in value when maintained in excellent condition.
The key factors determining your vintage Dooney & Bourke’s worth are:
Authenticity - Confirmed through proper tags, quality craftsmanship, and serial numbers
Condition - Often the most significant value factor, with mint condition bags worth multiples of damaged ones
Rarity - Limited editions, discontinued colors, and early production pieces command premiums
Completeness - Original tags, dust bags, and accessories increase desirability
Whether you’re looking to sell a vintage find or start collecting these iconic American handbags, understanding these value factors will help you make informed decisions. With proper care, many vintage Dooney & Bourke bags can continue to be both functional accessories and appreciating collectibles for years to come.
Remember that the vintage fashion market is constantly evolving, with collectors’ interests shifting over time. What may be highly sought after today could change, though the enduring quality and distinctive style of Dooney & Bourke bags have maintained their appeal for decades—suggesting these American classics will likely remain collectible for the foreseeable future.
