How Much Is Wicker Furniture Worth

Wicker is a technique, not a plant. It refers to furniture woven from flexible materials—rattan, reed, willow, cane, paper fiber, even seagrass—over a rigid frame. Because “wicker” spans two centuries of styles, materials, and makers, answering “How much is wicker furniture worth?” requires more than a quick glance. Appraisers weigh form, maker, materials, condition, originality, and current market demand, then translate those factors into one of several value types: fair market value (typical price in an arm’s-length sale), auction hammer price, retail asking price, or insurance replacement.

This guide outlines the key drivers of value, realistic price ranges for common categories in today’s market, and a practical process for assessing a specific piece.

Understanding Wicker: Materials, Periods, and Makers

• Materials you’ll encounter

  • Rattan: a climbing palm; the solid core forms frames; the outer skin (cane) and peeled strands are woven. Durable, flexible, prized for structural pieces.
  • Reed: the pithy core of rattan; common in late-19th- and early-20th-century “fancy wicker” in the U.S. Softer than cane; more prone to breakage.
  • Willow: early Victorian and rustic forms; identifiable by irregular, twig-like strands.
  • Paper fiber (paper-wrapped wire): notably “Lloyd Loom,” smoother to the touch, invented 1917, mass-produced from the 1920s onward.
  • Cane: the glossy outer skin of rattan; often used for seats and backs.
  • Seagrass/grass: used in rustic and coastal pieces; less common in high-style antique forms.

• Periods and styles

  • Victorian to Edwardian “fancy wicker” (c. 1870–1910): flamboyant scrolls, curlicues, birdcage motifs, elaborate fringes. Often reed over wooden frames. High decorative appeal when complete and original.
  • Arts & Crafts and Mission-influenced wicker (c. 1895–1915): cleaner lines, rectilinear forms, woven panels, less ornamentation.
  • Porch and conservatory wicker (c. 1910s–1930s): comfortable seating sets, daybeds, swings; frequently factory-painted white or cream.
  • Lloyd Loom (c. 1920s–1950s): woven paper fiber on a wire substrate; smooth, tight weave; popular in the UK and U.S. for bedroom and porch furniture.
  • Mid-century woven rattan/wicker (c. 1950s–1970s): sculptural lounge chairs and sets by Italian and Northern European makers; often rattan frames with wicker wrapping.
  • Late 20th century to contemporary: mass-produced wicker and synthetic “all-weather” resin wicker; abundant and usually lower in value unless designer-attributed.

• Makers and markers of quality

  • Heywood Brothers, Wakefield Rattan Company, and the merged Heywood-Wakefield (U.S.): prolific catalog producers of both ornate and simplified wicker. Paper or metal labels, stencils, and distinctive patterning can aid attribution.
  • Marshall B. Lloyd (U.S.) and W. Lusty & Sons (UK) for Lloyd Loom: look for “Lloyd Loom” labels or plaques; early Lusty examples are collectable.
  • Dryad Works (UK), Rohe Noordwolde (Netherlands), and Vittorio Bonacina (Italy) for early-to-mid 20th-century European output.
  • Designers such as Franco Albini (Italy) created highly sought-after rattan/wicker forms in the 1950s.

Knowing whether you’re looking at reed-based Victorian fancy wicker, paper-fiber Lloyd Loom, or mid-century rattan sculptural seating anchors your valuation.

The Four Pillars of Value

1. Design desirability

• Rare, sculptural, or iconic forms command premiums: high-back “peacock” chairs of earlier vintage, elaborate Victorian tête-à-tête settees, organic mid-century lounge chairs.
• Useful forms sell better: armchairs, settees, daybeds, porch swings. Bulky cabinets and fragile desks often lag.

2. Maker attribution and provenance

• A labeled Heywood-Wakefield or early Lusty Lloyd Loom piece tends to outperform anonymous examples of similar form.
• Published or catalogued models are easier to sell and insure. Provenance to notable resorts, estates, or designers adds credibility and value.

3. Condition and originality

• Breaks, losses, sagging seats, unraveling, and amateur rewoven sections drag prices down quickly.
• Original finish is prized. Factory paint colors (white/cream on porch pieces; green on some Lloyd Loom) can be desirable if intact. Thick later latex or spray paint typically depresses value.
• Replaced cushions, modern upholstery staples, new glass tops on tables, and substituted feet or casters all affect originality.

4. Scale, function, and logistics

• Shipping and fragility costs matter. Large, delicate pieces may bring more locally in coastal/resort markets than at distant auctions where freight erodes bids.
• Outdoor usability is a selling point for porch sets; indoor-only delicate Victorian pieces appeal to a narrower audience.

Price Ranges You Can Expect (2025 market)

These are broad, research-driven ranges for typical examples in good, presentable condition. Exceptional rarity, documentation, or top-tier condition can exceed them; heavy restoration or damage can cut them in half or worse.

• Victorian/Edwardian “fancy wicker” (U.S., reed-based)

  • Side or nursing chairs: $200–$900
  • Elaborate armchairs (scrollwork, cresting): $600–$2,500
  • Settees/loveseats: $1,200–$4,500
  • Tête-à-tête, prams, or highly ornate/rare forms: $2,500–$12,000+
  • Matching suites (sofa + chairs + table) with strong provenance can command a premium.

• Arts & Crafts/Mission-influenced wicker (c. 1895–1915)

  • Armchairs: $300–$1,200
  • Settees: $900–$2,800
  • Tables, stands, fernerys: $150–$900

• Porch/conservatory sets (1910s–1930s, often factory-painted)

  • Armchairs/rockers: $250–$900 each
  • Sofas/daybeds: $700–$2,200
  • Three-piece sets: $1,200–$3,500 depending on completeness and cushions

• Lloyd Loom (1920s–1950s)

  • Laundry baskets and ottomans: $60–$250
  • Side chairs and bedroom chairs: $150–$600
  • Armchairs: $250–$900
  • Sofas/settess: $700–$1,800
  • Uncommon colors, original labels, and intact loom weave lift values.

• Mid-century rattan/wicker (1950s–1970s; Italy, Netherlands, Philippines, U.S.)

  • Anonymous or regional lounge chairs: $250–$900
  • Franco Albini or Bonacina-attributed lounge chairs: $1,200–$6,000 per chair; rarer models higher
  • Rohe Noordwolde bent rattan pieces: $400–$1,500 per piece
  • Vintage peacock chairs (1960s–70s Philippine examples): $150–$800 depending on quality and condition

• Late 20th-century to contemporary wicker

  • Generic retail pieces (natural materials): $50–$400 per item on the secondary market
  • Designer-branded contemporary works can exceed these ranges but require firm attribution.

Remember: auction hammer prices are typically lower than retail; dealer pricing reflects curation, restoration, and return policies. Insurance replacement values can exceed both.

How to Evaluate a Piece Step by Step

1. Identify material and technique

• Run your fingers over the weave. Lloyd Loom feels smooth and uniform (paper on wire). Reed is slightly spongy and matte. Cane has a glossy, harder surface.
• Check the frame. Rattan poles signal mid-century or tropical forms; wood frames wrapped in reed or cane are common in earlier American fancy wicker.
• Watch for synthetics: resin wicker is plastic-looking, often perfectly uniform, with modern fasteners and weatherproof labels.

2. Date the piece by construction details

• Fasteners: Square nails and early screws suggest 19th century; staples and Phillips screws point to 20th century.
• Seat decks: Wood slats or caned seats are older; plywood and hardboard show later manufacture.
• Finish: A thin, alligatoring varnish or worn factory enamel can be period; thick modern latex often indicates later repaint.

3. Look for maker’s marks and labels

• Inspect underside rails, seat decks, and back panels for paper labels, decals, stencils, or plaques. Photograph any remnants; even partial labels can confirm a maker.

4. Assess condition honestly

• Structural: Does it wobble? Are joints tight? Is the seat sagging?
• Weave integrity: Note broken strands, unraveling, and replaced sections (newer reed is often lighter in color unless toned).
• Losses: Missing feet, finials, or trims reduce value.
• Odors and contamination: Smoke, mildew, and pet odors are real deterrents and hard to remedy.

5. Confirm originality

• Compare cushions, paint, and hardware to period norms. New foam cushions in modern fabrics won’t destroy value but they won’t add it; original, clean cushions can.
• Overpainting vs. factory finish: Test inconspicuously; a thin, even factory enamel is different from drippy modern latex.

6. Measure and photograph

• Capture straight-on photos of front, side, and back, plus detail shots of weave patterns, damage, and labels. Measure height, width, depth, and seat height. This documentation is essential for appraisals and comparables.

7. Find comparables

• Seek sold results for similar form, maker, and condition. Favor recent sales over listings. Adjust for geography and season (spring–summer is stronger for porch pieces).

Restoration, Cleaning, and When Not to Touch It

• Cleaning

  • Dry first: Vacuum with a soft brush attachment to remove dust. Use a soft paintbrush to flick debris from crevices.
  • Damp only if necessary: Wipe with a slightly damp microfiber cloth and a drop of mild soap; avoid soaking. Dry immediately with fans and air circulation.
  • Avoid oils and heavy waxes: Linseed oil can darken and attract dust; silicone polishes complicate future conservation.

• Stabilization

  • Loose wraps and minor breaks can often be stabilized with archival adhesives and toned fibers. If you are not trained, consult a conservator—ill-matched materials age differently and will telegraph repairs.

• Reweaving and repainting

  • Professional reweaving of a seat panel or arm wrap can cost $150–$600; major reweaves can exceed the value of common pieces.
  • Full strip-and-repaint can erase desirable patina and reduce value in antiques; it may be appropriate for unlabeled, utility pieces.

• When to leave it alone

  • High-style Victorian and documented maker pieces are better with honest wear than with aggressive refinishing. Minimal, reversible conservation is preferable.

• Upholstery and cushions

  • Replace foam and fabric for usability, but keep original cushion forms and any maker-stamped decking if present. Save removed materials for provenance.

Where and How to Research Comparables

• Define the “like-for-like” filters first: maker (if known), country, decade, form (armchair vs. rocker), material (reed vs. Lloyd Loom vs. rattan), and condition level.
• Focus on realized prices rather than asking prices. Auctions (local and regional), estate sales with published results, and dealer “sold” archives are more revealing than live listings.
• Note geography and timing. Wicker often sells higher in coastal and resort markets and in warmer months. Freight sensitivity narrows buyer pools for bulky or fragile items.
• Consider the venue’s audience. A general household auction may underperform compared to a design-focused sale for mid-century rattan or a specialized Americana sale for Victorian fancy wicker.
• Track multiple comps and average them, then adjust for your piece’s specific condition and originality.

Quick Valuation Checklist

• Identify material: reed, cane, willow, rattan, or paper-fiber (Lloyd Loom)?
• Assign period/style: Victorian fancy, Arts & Crafts, porch 1910s–30s, Lloyd Loom, mid-century, or later?
• Look for labels/stamps: underside, back rails, seat decks, plaques.
• Check structure: wobble, loose joints, seat sagging.
• Inspect weave: broken strands, losses, rewoven sections, uniformity.
• Evaluate finish: original patina or factory enamel vs. thick later paint.
• Measure and photograph: all views, details, and any damage.
• Research comparables: sold prices, similar form/material/maker, same condition.
• Adjust for logistics: shipping cost, seasonality, and local demand.
• Decide on restoration: only if it improves usability and market value without erasing originality.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Is painted wicker worth less than unpainted? A: It depends. Original factory enamel (often white or cream on 1910s–30s porch pieces) is collectible if intact. Later, thick repaint generally lowers value on antique examples. On common, unlabeled pieces, a well-executed repaint may improve marketability but rarely adds value in an appraisal sense.

Q: How can I tell if my piece is Lloyd Loom? A: Lloyd Loom weave is a paper fiber twisted around wire, producing a smooth, uniform surface with very fine, consistent texture. Frames are typically wooden or steel with applied loom panels. Look for original labels or plaques, often on the underside, reading “Lloyd Loom,” and for UK examples, W. Lusty & Sons.

Q: Are peacock chairs valuable? A: Early, high-quality peacock chairs with dense, tight weaving and robust rattan frames can be desirable. Many 1960s–70s export examples are decorative but common; values often range $150–$800 depending on quality and condition. Designer-attributed or earlier forms can bring more.

Q: Does restoration pay off? A: Targeted, professional repairs that address structural issues and small losses can stabilize value. Full reweaving, stripping, and repainting often cost more than the resale gain for common pieces. On labeled, high-style antiques, minimal, reversible conservation is the safest route for preserving value.

Q: What’s the best way to insure wicker furniture? A: Insure at retail replacement value—the cost to replace with a like-quality piece from a dealer within a reasonable time. Provide your insurer with photos, measurements, any maker documentation, and, if possible, a written appraisal for higher-value items.

By focusing on material, maker, design, condition, and market context—and by using recent, like-for-like comparables—you can answer “How much is wicker furniture worth?” with confidence and document a supportable value for sale, purchase, or insurance.