Estate sales move fast. You might have 30 seconds at a table to decide whether a spoon, candlestick, tray, or ring is sterling silver or just silverplate. The good news: most solid-silver pieces tell you what they are. The trick is knowing where to look and which stamps are “green lights” vs “walk away” language.
This guide is a fast field workflow: confirm a sterling standard mark (STERLING/925/UK), reject plated language (EPNS), and document marks for follow-up.
If you only do four things:
- Find the standard mark: look for STERLING, 925, or a UK lion.
- Reject plate language: EPNS, A1, “silverplate,” “nickel silver,” and “alpacca” are not solid silver.
- Use raking light: a low-angle flashlight makes faint stamps readable without scratching.
- Photograph the marks: one macro and one full-item photo is enough to confirm later.
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The 60-second estate sale checklist (sterling hallmarks)
Use this order so you don’t waste time. The goal is not “prove it in court,” it’s to quickly sort: likely sterling, likely plate, or needs follow-up.
- Flip it over: check the back, rim, foot, or inside of rings/clasps. Hallmarks hide.
- Find the standard mark: look for STERLING, 925, a UK lion, or an assay set.
- Scan for plate language: EPNS/A1/silverplate/nickel silver/alpacca = not solid.
- Use raking light: angle a small flashlight low to “raise” faint stamps.
- Check construction: “weighted sterling” and knife handles are often shells.
- Document: take 1 macro + 1 full photo. Decide if it’s worth expert confirmation.
What “sterling” means (and what it doesn’t)
Sterling silver is an alloy that’s typically 92.5% pure silver (the rest is usually copper for strength). That’s why you’ll often see the hallmark 925. It’s common on jewelry; it can also appear on modern hollowware and some flatware.
You’ll often see a maker’s mark near the standard. Photograph the full stamp cluster so you can confirm it later without guessing.
What sterling does not mean: it doesn’t guarantee a premium—maker, pattern, form, and condition drive the resale tier.
Where to look for hallmarks (fast)
Different item types hide marks in predictable places. Here’s the quickest sweep:
- Flatware: back of the handle (near the neck), back of the bowl, or on the handle end.
- Trays/platters: underside near the rim, on the foot ring, or near a handle mount.
- Candlesticks: underside edge, near the felt pad, or on the base rim (often marked “weighted”).
- Rings: inside the shank.
- Necklaces/bracelets: clasp tongue, clasp body, or on a small tag near the clasp.
If the stamp is faint, use raking light and take a macro photo—avoid scraping or aggressive cleaning in the field.
UK sterling hallmarks: the lion is your shortcut
UK silver is often the easiest to trust because hallmarking is structured. A typical British set can include a lion passant (sterling standard mark) plus an assay office symbol, a date letter, and a maker’s mark.
You don’t need to decode every symbol on-site: confirm a real hallmark cluster and photograph it for later decoding.
Silverplate traps: fast red flags (EPNS and friends)
Plated wares can be collectible, but they are not solid silver. Treat plate language as not sterling unless a credible standard mark proves otherwise.
Common plated / lookalike terms:
- EPNS / A1: electroplated, not solid.
- Silverplate / Plated: explicitly not solid.
- Nickel silver / German silver / Alpacca: base-metal alloy that only looks silver.
If a stamp is ambiguous, prioritize pieces with a clear standard mark plus a maker’s mark—not just marketing language.
Fast, non-destructive tests (useful clues, not courtroom proof)
Avoid acid testing and scratching at the table. Use quick, non-destructive clues to support what the marks already suggest.
Raking light (best for faint hallmarks)
A low-angle flashlight creates shadows in the stamped impressions. This is often enough to read a worn 925 or maker’s mark without any cleaning.
Ice test (heat conduction clue)
Silver conducts heat well, so ice often melts quickly on solid silver. Treat this as a supporting clue only.
Magnet check (red flag screening)
Sterling silver is not magnetic; strong attraction is a red flag. Some attached parts can be steel, so interpret carefully.
“Weighted sterling” and other confusing constructions
Estate-sale candlesticks are a classic trap. They can be marked weighted sterling, which often means a thin sterling shell over a heavy filler (cement/resin). They can still be collectible—especially in known patterns or makers—but their value usually does not track the total weight the way a solid sterling bowl might.
Quick note: Knife handles can be sterling while the blade is steel, so a magnet may still stick to part of a genuine piece.
Visual guide gallery: hallmarks, plate marks, and quick techniques
Use the images below as a quick reference for what you’re trying to find at the table.
Market proof: confirmed sterling + maker marks can change the value tier
When you can confirm sterling (and ideally a known maker/pattern), the market can shift from “scrap-ish” pricing to collectible pricing. Below are recent comps from Appraisily’s internal auction results database. Use them as context for what confirmed, desirable sterling can command.
FAQ: fast sterling hallmark questions
Is 925 always sterling silver?
Usually: 925 indicates sterling (92.5% silver). Confirm it’s a punched stamp and not paired with plated language.
What does EPNS mean on silver?
EPNS stands for electroplated nickel silver. It indicates silverplate over base metal, not solid sterling.
What are the key UK sterling hallmarks?
Look for the lion passant (sterling) plus an assay office mark, a date letter, and a maker’s mark.
Can sterling silver be magnetic?
Sterling isn’t magnetic; strong attraction is a red flag. Mild attraction can come from steel parts (blades, springs, screws, clasps).
What does “weighted sterling” mean?
A thin sterling shell over filler (common in candlesticks); value usually does not track total weight as scrap.
Search variations collectors ask
Readers often Google:
- how to tell if silver is sterling or plated at an estate sale
- what does 925 mean on silver jewelry
- what does EPNS mean on silverware
- how to read British sterling silver hallmarks
- where are hallmarks on sterling flatware
- how to identify weighted sterling candlesticks
- is sterling silver magnetic
- fast test for real silver at flea market
- how to photograph hallmarks for appraisal
Each question is answered in the checklist, hallmark, and red-flag sections above.
Key takeaways
- Real sterling usually advertises itself: STERLING, 925, or a credible assay hallmark set.
- EPNS/A1/silverplate/nickel silver/alpacca are plated or lookalike terms, not solid silver.
- Raking light + a macro photo can reveal faint marks without any risky scraping or cleaning.
- Weighted sterling (especially candlesticks) is often a sterling shell—price it differently than solid forms.
References & data sources
- Assay Office London (hallmarking overview): https://www.assayofficelondon.co.uk/hallmarking/
- The Goldsmiths’ Company (hallmarking basics): https://www.thegoldsmiths.co.uk/assay-office/hallmarking/
- Auction datasets cited in-text (Appraisily internal results DB): Case Antiques (Lot 56 on 2023-07-08), DOYLE (Lot 287 on 2024-12-18), Farber Auctioneers (Lots 563 and 543 on 2024-12-17).