How to Identify & Date Old Buttons: A Collector's Guide

Buttons are more than just functional fasteners – they’re miniature works of art that tell stories of fashion, technology, and social history. For collectors and enthusiasts, these small treasures offer a tangible connection to the past. Whether you’ve inherited a jar of old buttons, discovered them while metal detecting, or are building a serious collection, knowing how to properly identify and date buttons is essential for determining their historical significance and value.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the key characteristics that help determine a button’s age, material, origin, and potential value. From ancient bone buttons to ornate Victorian masterpieces to mid-century modern designs, you’ll learn to recognize the telltale signs that distinguish truly valuable specimens from everyday fasteners.

Button identification isn’t just about satisfying curiosity – it’s fundamental to understanding their historical and monetary value. As noted by Agnes’ Vintage World, “Button identification is crucial to its dating. The state of the buttons can be misleading, as the colour can be very well preserved.” Without proper identification skills, you might miss a rare treasure or misattribute a button’s age and significance.

Accurate identification allows you to:

1. Determine appropriate conservation methods
2. Authenticate period clothing and artifacts
3. Establish fair market values for buying, selling, or insurance
4. Contribute to historical research and documentation
5. Create more meaningful and valuable collections

For metal detectorists, button identification can provide critical dating evidence for archaeological sites. According to the Friendly Metal Detecting Forum, “There are some websites that link to some old button manufacturers info can be found online” that can help place buttons in their proper historical context.

Metal Buttons

Metal buttons have been produced for centuries, with materials ranging from precious metals to alloys. Here’s how to identify common metal button types:

Brass Buttons: Popular from the 18th to early 20th centuries, especially for military and uniform buttons. Early brass buttons often have a warmer, more golden tone than modern examples. According to HobbyLark, “One way is to look at the material in or around the shank or buttonholes. You can sometimes see unprocessed materials in or around these holes.”

Copper Buttons: Often used for utilitarian purposes, these buttons develop a distinctive green patina over time.

Silver and Gold Buttons: Typically found on high-end garments and can be hallmarked. Look for quality marks or stamps indicating silver content (sterling, 800, 925, etc.).

Pewter Buttons: Common in the 18th and early 19th centuries, these soft metal buttons have a dull gray appearance and often show significant wear.

Shell Buttons

Mother of Pearl: These iridescent buttons made from mollusk shells have been popular since the 18th century and remain desirable today. As noted in the research on identifying vintage mother of pearl buttons, “Mother of pearl buttons have more depth of color than plastic buttons. It takes a look to tell them from any other buttons due to their noble opalescent sheen.”

Pearl Shell: Similar to mother of pearl but with less iridescence.

Abalone: Features distinctive blue-green-purple shimmer.

Natural Material Buttons

Bone and Horn: Used since ancient times, these buttons can be distinguished by their natural grain patterns and warm coloration.

Vegetable Ivory (Tagua Nut): Popular in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, these plant-based buttons resemble ivory but are more sustainable.

Wood: Varies widely in appearance based on the type of wood used and any applied finishes.

Early Synthetic Materials

Bakelite: The first fully synthetic plastic, popular from the 1920s-1940s. According to Va-Voom Vintage, you can identify Bakelite by warming it with friction: “Rub the piece with your thumb until it becomes warm and give it a sniff. If it is Bakelite, it will give off the chemical scent of formaldehyde.”

Celluloid: An early plastic used from the 1870s to the 1930s that can become brittle and yellowed with age.

Lucite: A clearer acrylic plastic popular from the 1940s onward.

Casein (Galalith): A milk-based plastic popular in Art Deco designs from the 1900s-1930s.

Ceramic and Glass Buttons

Porcelain/China: Often hand-painted with delicate designs, popular in the 19th century.

Prosser Buttons: Machine-made ceramic buttons with a distinctive seam around the edge and often a dimpled back. According to the DAACS Cataloging Manual, Prosser buttons “Generally date after 1840.”

Glass: Available in various colors and styles, from simple utilitarian buttons to elaborate Victorian designs.

Button Shanks and Attachments

The shank (attachment method) of a button is one of the most reliable indicators of its age. According to Scott Clark’s dating guide, button shanks evolved significantly over time:

Alpha-style shank: Cast as part of the button, used primarily before 1800.

Omega-style shank: Wire loop shaped like the Greek letter omega, common from approximately 1800-1860.

Eye and wire shank: Wire shank inserted through an eye cast as part of the button, used mid-19th century.

Sanders-type shank: Self-shank with a bar across the back, popular in the late 19th century.

Sew-through buttons: These have holes rather than shanks and their pattern (2-hole or 4-hole) and spacing can help with dating.

Manufacturing Techniques

Hand-crafted buttons: Look for slight irregularities in shape, inconsistent thickness, or uneven hole placement. As noted by LoveToKnow, antique buttons often “show signs of being handmade, such as a lack of uniformity.”

Die-struck buttons: Common in military and uniform buttons from the early 19th century onward.

Molded buttons: Became increasingly common with the advent of plastic materials in the late 19th and early 20th centuries.

Fabric-covered buttons: The construction of the back and the covering method can indicate age.

Prosser process: Used for ceramic buttons after 1840, creating a distinctive “china” button with a slightly pitted bottom surface.

Buttons primarily made by hand from natural materials like bone, horn, shell, and wood. Metal buttons were individually cast or hammered.

Stamped metal buttons become more common. Birmingham, England emerges as a button manufacturing center.

Introduction of more efficient manufacturing techniques. Backmarks become common. Omega-style shanks replace alpha shanks.

Peak of decorative button design. Introduction of Prosser process for ceramic buttons. Picture buttons and elaborate designs flourish.

Introduction of early plastics including Bakelite, Celluloid, and Casein. Mass production becomes standard.

Modern plastics dominate. Buttons become primarily functional rather than decorative. Revival of artisanal button making as craft.

Backmarks and Maker’s Marks

Backmarks are text, symbols, or logos stamped into the back of a button. According to the Friendly Metal Detecting Forum, “The first backmarked flatbuttons had the backmark written in raised lettering. They start showing up in Britain ‘about’ 1790, perhaps a few years earlier.”

Common backmarks include:

• Manufacturer’s name or initials
• Quality marks indicating material composition
• Patent dates (remember these indicate when the manufacturing process was patented, not necessarily when the button was made)
• Country of origin (Note: “Made in…” markings were generally required after 1891)

Design and Artistic Style

Buttons often reflect the artistic movements of their time:

Georgian Period (1714-1837): Simple designs, often with geometric patterns.

Victorian Era (1837-1901): Elaborate designs, including picture buttons portraying scenes, animals, people, and motifs from nature.

Art Nouveau (1890-1910): Flowing, natural forms and asymmetrical designs.

Art Deco (1920s-1930s): Bold geometric patterns and stylized forms.

Mid-Century Modern (1940s-1960s): Clean lines, atomic and starburst patterns, bold colors.

Size and Shape

Button size and shape evolved over time:

• 18th-century buttons tended to be smaller
• Victorian buttons came in various sizes, with large statement buttons becoming popular
• Early 20th-century buttons often featured simpler, more standardized designs
• Unusual shapes (animals, flowers, etc.) were particularly popular during the Victorian and Art Deco periods

Military Buttons

Military buttons are among the most collected and studied types. They typically feature:

• Regimental insignia or national emblems
• Specific attachment methods that evolved over time
• Maker’s marks that can help determine age and authenticity

Military buttons can be dated by researching the specific regiment, division, or branch indicated by their design. Resources from military museums and reference books like “Uniform Buttons of the United States” can help with identification.

Picture Buttons

Popular primarily during the Victorian era (1837-1901), picture buttons feature miniature scenes or images:

• Themes include mythology, literature, history, animals, and everyday life
• Often made of brass with steel cuts or decorative finishes
• Some were hand-painted on porcelain
• Matching sets are particularly valuable

Livery Buttons

Used on the uniforms of household staff for wealthy families:

• Feature family crests, coats of arms, or emblems
• Can be researched through heraldic records
• Often made of brass or silver-plated brass
• Sizes varied based on placement (larger for coats, smaller for vests)

Specialized Collecting Categories

Many collectors focus on specific button categories:

• Realistics: Buttons shaped like objects (animals, plants, etc.)
• Satsuma: Japanese porcelain buttons with hand-painted designs
• Sporting buttons: Featuring hunting, fishing, or other sports motifs
• Black glass: Popular mourning buttons from the Victorian era
• Jewel buttons: Featuring cut steel, rhinestones, or other gem-like elements

Physical Examination Tools

• Magnifying glass or loupe: Essential for examining marks, materials, and construction details
• Digital microscope: Useful for close examination and documentation
• UV light: Can help identify certain materials like Bakelite
• Digital scale: Helps determine material by weight
• Calipers: For precise measurement of button dimensions

Testing Methods

Bakelite Test: As mentioned earlier, rubbing Bakelite creates a distinctive formaldehyde smell. Another test involves touching the button with a hot pin tip – Bakelite won’t melt but may give off the characteristic smell.

Float Test: Some materials like bone will float in water while similar-looking plastics will sink.

Hot Needle Test: Carefully touching a heated needle to an inconspicuous spot on a button can help identify plastic types based on how they react.

Sound Test: Dropping buttons on a hard surface can help identify materials – china and glass buttons have a distinctive “ping” sound.

Digital Resources

According to our research, many collectors are looking for a “vintage button identification app” or “free button identification app.” While specialized apps are limited, several digital resources can help:

• Online button collector forums
• Digital button archives from museums
• Reference databases with button backmarks
• Social media groups dedicated to button collecting

Reference Books

Some essential references for button collectors include:

• “The Big Book of Buttons” by Elizabeth Hughes
• “Antique And Collectible Buttons - Identification & Values” by Debra J. Wisniewski
• “Button Button: Identification and Price Guide” by Peggy Ann Osborne

Key Value Factors

Rarity: Buttons from limited production runs or featuring unusual designs typically command higher prices.

Age: Generally, older buttons are more valuable, especially those from before the 20th century.

Material: Precious materials like silver, gold, or high-quality mother of pearl tend to be more valuable.

Condition: Mint or near-mint condition buttons typically bring premium prices. Look for:

• No chips, cracks, or missing pieces
• Original finish intact
• Minimal wear to design elements
• Functional shank or holes

Historical Significance: Buttons associated with important historical events, figures, or periods often command higher prices.

Completeness: Sets of matching buttons are typically more valuable than individual pieces.

Where to Sell Valuable Buttons

If you’ve identified valuable buttons in your collection, several markets exist:

• Specialized button collector shows and conventions
• Online marketplaces like eBay and Etsy
• Antique dealers who specialize in textiles and sewing items
• Auction houses for especially rare or valuable specimens
• Direct sales to other collectors through button collecting clubs

Market Trends

The button collecting market continues to evolve:

• Mid-century plastic buttons (Bakelite, Lucite) have seen increased interest
• Military and uniform buttons remain consistently popular
• Picture buttons from the Victorian era command premium prices
• Unusual materials and designs attract collector attention
• Buttons with provenance (documented history) bring higher prices

Finding Buttons

• Estate sales and auctions
• Thrift stores and flea markets
• Online marketplaces like eBay, Etsy, and Ruby Lane
• Antique shops and shows
• Button collector clubs and conventions
• Old clothing and sewing supplies

Organization and Storage

Proper storage is crucial for preserving your button collection:

• Acid-free paper or card stock for mounting
• Clear plastic containers or specialized button boxes
• Protection from direct sunlight, which can fade colors
• Climate-controlled environment to prevent material degradation
• Labeling system to track identification information and provenance

Documentation

Maintain detailed records of your button collection:

• Photographs of front and back
• Measurements (diameter and thickness)
• Material identification notes
• Age and origin estimates
• Purchase information and provenance
• Reference sources used for identification

Joining the Button Collecting Community

Connect with fellow button enthusiasts:

• National Button Society
• Regional button clubs and associations
• Online forums and social media groups
• Button collector shows and conventions

The leading organization for button collectors with educational resources, events, and publications.

Comprehensive guide to identifying various types of antique and vintage buttons.

Detailed information on button identification and dating techniques.

Archaeological approach to button identification with detailed dating information.

Detailed visual guide to dating buttons by shank style and material.

Specific techniques for identifying Bakelite buttons and other collectibles.

Flat button identification, particularly for vintage colonial metal buttons, can be done by examining the back seam. According to research from [The King's Bay](https://thekingsbay.com/flat-button-vintage-colonial-metal-buttons-identification/), "Flat button vintage colonial metal button identification can easily be done from the back by looking at the seam." 

Military, political, or official buttons from this time period might have a rim or a center formed around a pin. Other identification factors include:

- Material composition (brass, copper, pewter, etc.)
- Presence and style of backmarks
- Attachment method (alpha shank, omega shank, etc.)
- Design elements that reflect period-specific styles
- Signs of hand-crafting vs. machine production

Bakelite buttons, popular from the 1920s through the 1940s, can be identified through several testing methods:

1. **Hot water test**: Bakelite has a distinctive formaldehyde smell when placed in hot water.

2. **Friction test**: As described by [Va-Voom Vintage](http://www.vavoomvintage.net/2012/03/how-to-identify-bakelite.html), "Rub the piece with your thumb until it becomes warm and give it a sniff. If it is Bakelite, it will give off the chemical scent of formaldehyde."

3. **Formula 409 test**: A cotton swab with Formula 409 cleaner rubbed on Bakelite will turn yellow.

4. **Hot pin test**: A heated pin touched to an inconspicuous spot will not melt Bakelite but might produce the characteristic smell.

Visually, Bakelite buttons often have a rich, deep color that doesn't fade, may show an attractive patina, and feel heavier than other plastic buttons.

Mother of pearl buttons have distinctive characteristics that separate them from plastic imitations:

1. **Depth of color**: According to [Tissura](https://tissura.com/articles/mother-of-pearl-buttons), "Mother of pearl buttons have more depth of color than plastic buttons. It takes a look to tell them from any other buttons due to their noble opalescent sheen."

2. **Temperature**: Mother of pearl feels cool to the touch initially, while plastic warms quickly.

3. **Light test**: When held up to light, genuine mother of pearl has a translucent quality with natural variations.

4. **Weight**: Mother of pearl is typically heavier than plastic imitations.

5. **Edge examination**: Under magnification, you can often see the layered structure of the shell material.

6. **Sound test**: When tapped against teeth or glass, mother of pearl makes a distinctive solid clicking sound compared to plastic.

Several types of buttons command premium prices in the collector market:

1. **Early military buttons**: Particularly from the Revolutionary War, War of 1812, and Civil War eras, especially those with documented provenance.

2. **Victorian picture buttons**: Especially rare designs, complete sets, or those made with precious materials.

3. **Rare Bakelite buttons**: Unusual colors (red, blue, green) and figural designs.

4. **Artist-signed buttons**: Buttons made by renowned artisans or studios.

5. **Historical significance**: Buttons associated with famous people or events.

6. **Early hand-crafted buttons**: Particularly those from the 18th century or earlier.

The most valuable buttons can sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars. Value is determined by rarity, condition, aesthetic appeal, historical importance, and current collector demand.

To determine if your old buttons might be valuable:

1. **Identify the material**: Precious materials like gold, silver, or high-quality mother of pearl typically hold more value.

2. **Research the age**: Generally, older buttons (pre-1900) tend to be more valuable.

3. **Check for maker's marks**: Buttons from renowned manufacturers often command higher prices.

4. **Assess rarity**: Unusual designs, limited production runs, or buttons from specific historical periods may be more valuable.

5. **Evaluate condition**: Buttons in excellent condition with no damage typically bring premium prices.

6. **Look for sets**: Complete sets of matching buttons are usually more valuable than individual pieces.

7. **Consult reference guides**: Books like "Antique And Collectible Buttons - Identification & Values" can help determine potential value.

8. **Get a professional appraisal**: For potentially valuable collections, consult with an antique button specialist.

9. **Check auction results**: Research recent sales of similar buttons to gauge current market values.

While there isn't a specialized button identification app widely available yet, several approaches can help:

1. **General antique identification apps**: Apps like Google Lens or Seek can sometimes help identify button materials or styles.

2. **Online collector forums**: Post clear photos of your buttons for expert community input.

3. **Social media groups**: Button collector groups on Facebook and other platforms can provide identification assistance.

4. **Museum digital collections**: Compare your buttons to documented specimens in museum databases.

5. **Reference websites**: Sites like the National Button Society offer identification resources.

Technology continues to evolve, and more specialized identification tools may become available in the future. Meanwhile, combining digital resources with traditional reference materials provides the most comprehensive approach to button identification.

Conclusion

Button identification and dating is both an art and a science. By examining materials, construction methods, designs, and markings, you can uncover the fascinating stories behind these miniature treasures. Whether you’re a serious collector, a casual enthusiast, or simply curious about family heirlooms, understanding how to properly identify old buttons opens a window into fashion history, technological innovation, and cultural aesthetics.

Remember that button identification often requires a combination of approaches – material testing, visual examination, historical research, and sometimes consultation with experts. With practice, your identification skills will improve, allowing you to spot valuable specimens and build a more meaningful collection.

For those interested in taking their button collecting to the next level, consider joining a button collector’s club, attending specialized shows, or investing in comprehensive reference materials. The button collecting community is welcoming and enthusiastic about sharing knowledge with newcomers.

By preserving and documenting your button collection, you’re not just enjoying a fascinating hobby – you’re helping preserve tangible pieces of our material culture history for future generations.