Appraisily

July 12, 2023

Antique Button Identification Guide: Discover Hidden Treasures in Your Collection

Learn how to identify valuable antique buttons with our comprehensive guide covering materials, styles, marks, and more. Includes price ranges for collectors.

Diverse collection of antique and vintage buttons showcasing various materials, designs and historical periods
By Appraisily Team Last updated July 12, 2023
Collection of antique and vintage buttons showing various materials and designs
Antique buttons come in countless materials, designs, and periods, each telling a unique story of their era

Buttons are more than just functional fasteners – they’re miniature works of art that tell stories of bygone eras. From ornate Victorian brass buttons to colorful mid-century plastics, these small collectibles can hold surprising value and historical significance. Whether you’ve inherited a jar of mixed buttons, discovered some interesting specimens at an estate sale, or are looking to start a collection, identifying old buttons is both rewarding and potentially profitable.

In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore the fascinating world of antique and vintage button identification, covering materials, manufacturing techniques, age indicators, and valuation. With the right knowledge, you might discover that some of those unassuming fasteners in your sewing box are actually treasured collectors’ items worth significant money.

Table of Contents

<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Understanding Button Ages and Categories</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">Before diving into identification techniques, it&rsquo;s important to understand how buttons are categorized by age and how collectors typically classify them.</div>

Collectors typically divide buttons into the following categories:

  • Antique Buttons: Generally, buttons made before 1918 (over 100 years old)
  • Vintage Buttons: Typically dated between 1918 and the 1980s
  • Modern Buttons: Those made in recent decades

Within these broad categories, buttons are further classified by materials, manufacturing periods, and design styles. The National Button Society, founded in 1938, established a comprehensive classification system used by serious collectors, which divides buttons into divisions and classes based on materials, construction methods, and decorative elements.

Historical Timeline of Button Evolution

  1. 1500-1700

    Early Buttons

    Primarily handcrafted from natural materials like wood, bone, horn, and precious metals. Often used more for decoration than function.
  2. 1700-1850

    Industrial Revolution

    Mass production begins. Metal buttons become standardized. Military and uniform buttons gain prominence. Development of picture buttons.
  3. 1850-1918

    Victorian & Edwardian Era

    The golden age of buttons. Elaborate designs using glass, ceramics, metals, and early plastics. Highly decorative with complex patterns.
  4. 1918-1960

    Modern Materials

    Introduction of bakelite, celluloid, lucite and other synthetic materials. Simpler designs with Art Deco and Mid-Century influences.
  5. 1960-Present

    Contemporary Era

    Mass production with plastic dominates. Return to artisanal buttons in recent decades. Vintage button collecting becomes popular.
<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Materials Used in Antique Buttons</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">One of the most reliable methods for identifying antique buttons is recognizing the materials from which they were made, as certain materials were popular during specific time periods.</div>

Antique Button Material Statistics

Natural Materials

Shell: Mother-of-pearl (or nacre) buttons were common from the 1800s through the early 1900s. They have a distinctive iridescent sheen and were often used on dress shirts, blouses, and undergarments. Pearl buttons from the Mississippi River “pearl rush” (1890s-1920s) are particularly collectible.

Horn, Bone, and Ivory: These animal-derived materials were widely used before plastics. Horn buttons often have a layered, translucent appearance, while bone buttons are more opaque with visible porous areas. Genuine ivory buttons (now illegal unless antique with proper documentation) have distinctive “Schreger lines” or grain patterns.

Wood: Wooden buttons range from simple utilitarian designs to intricately carved specimens. They were common from the 18th century onward and experienced a resurgence during wartime material shortages.

Metals

Brass: A popular material for buttons, especially military and uniform buttons from the 18th-early 20th centuries. Look for tarnishing consistent with age and examine backmarks for manufacturer information.

Steel: Steel buttons became common in the 19th century and were often used for work clothes and uniforms. They may show rust or corrosion consistent with age.

Pewter: These soft metal buttons with a dull gray appearance were popular in the 18th and early 19th centuries. They often develop a distinctive patina over time.

Silver and Gold: Precious metal buttons were status symbols for the wealthy. Look for hallmarks indicating metal content and maker’s marks.

Glass and Ceramics

Glass: Glass buttons became widely available in the mid-19th century and remained popular through the early 20th century. They range from simple black glass “mourning buttons” to colorful hand-painted or molded designs.

Porcelain and Ceramic: Often hand-painted with delicate designs, these became popular in the late 18th century through the Victorian era. Staffordshire, Wedgwood, and Satsuma buttons are highly prized.

Early Synthetic Materials

Celluloid: The first synthetic plastic, introduced in the 1860s and popular through the 1930s. It can be identified by its lightweight feel and often has a slight camphor smell when rubbed. It’s highly flammable.

Bakelite: Developed in 1907 and popular through the 1940s. Authentic Bakelite produces a distinctive formaldehyde smell when rubbed with a hot needle (the “hot pin test”) and makes a solid sound when tapped against teeth or hard surfaces.

Lucite: Popular from the 1940s onward, lucite buttons are often transparent or translucent with embedded designs, glitter, or bubbles.

<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Identifying Button Construction and Attachment Methods</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">The way a button is constructed and how it attaches to fabric can provide significant clues about its age and origin.</div>

Attachment Methods

Shanks:

  • Loop Shanks: Simple wire loops - common in early buttons
  • Pad Shanks: Metal base with attached loop - popular in the 19th century
  • Self Shanks: Made from the same material as the button - found in various periods

The shank is often the most reliable indicator of a button’s age:

  1. Twisted Wire Shanks embedded in metal indicate manufacture before 1918
  2. Cast Shanks that are integrated with the button body typically date from the 19th century
  3. Alpha Shanks (shaped like an inverted omega symbol) were patented in 1918

Sew-Through Holes:

  • Two-Hole Buttons: Common throughout button history
  • Four-Hole Buttons: Became widespread in the 19th century
  • Unusual Hole Patterns: Can help identify specific periods or manufacturers

Construction Techniques

Molded Buttons: Mass-produced buttons made by pouring material into molds. Examine the seam lines and level of detail to determine age and quality.

Riveted Buttons: Multiple pieces joined together with small metal rivets, popular in the 19th and early 20th centuries.

Fabric-Covered Buttons: Often found on high-end garments, with designs reflecting the fashion of their period.

Hand-Carved Buttons: Look for slight irregularities and asymmetry indicating hand craftsmanship rather than machine production.

Button Authentication Checklist

Use this checklist to help assess the age and authenticity of antique buttons

  • Material appears consistent with claimed age
  • Attachment method/shank style matches the time period
  • Shows appropriate wear consistent with age
  • Patina, tarnish, or aging appears natural rather than artificial
  • Any backmarks or maker's marks are appropriate for the period
  • Design elements and motifs match the claimed era
  • Manufacturing techniques are consistent with the period
  • Size is appropriate for the claimed use and era
<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Recognizing Important Makers and Marks</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">Many antique buttons, particularly those made of metal, feature backmarks that can help identify their maker, origin, and sometimes date of manufacture.</div>

Types of Backmarks

Manufacturer’s Marks: Company names, logos, or initials stamped on the back of buttons. Examples include:

  • “R. Scovill & Co.” (1802-1840)
  • “Scovill Mfg. Co.” (1840-1866)
  • “Waterbury Button Co.” (1849-present)
  • “Goodyear” (for hard rubber buttons, 1851-1870s)

Patent Dates: Many buttons include patent dates, which provide a definitive earliest possible date for the button. Remember that buttons may have been produced for many years after the patent date.

Content Marks: Especially on metal buttons, you might find marks indicating material composition:

  • “Gilt” for gold-plated brass
  • “Silver” or sterling marks on silver buttons
  • “Paris” or “Paris Back” for a specific type of brass button

Country of Origin: After 1891, imported buttons were required to include the country of origin, such as “Made in France” or “Made in Czechoslovakia.”

Notable Button Manufacturers

  • Scovill Manufacturing Company: One of America’s oldest button makers, known for high-quality brass buttons
  • Waterbury Button Company: Famous for uniform and military buttons
  • Schwanda & Sons: Well-known Czech button maker (1830s-1940s)
  • Lacy, Pollard & Co.: Important 19th-century British manufacturer
  • W. Boulton: Prominent Birmingham button maker from the late 18th-early 19th centuries

Close-up of metal button backs showing manufacturer marks and attachment methods

<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Dating Buttons by Style and Design Elements</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">Artistic styles, decorative elements, and motifs found on buttons often reflect the design sensibilities of specific time periods.</div>

Common Historical Button Styles

Georgian Period (1714-1837):

  • Simple metal buttons, often pewter or brass
  • Hand-cut steel faceted buttons
  • Picture buttons depicting pastoral scenes or sporting motifs

Victorian Era (1837-1901):

  • Highly decorative with intricate designs
  • Popular motifs included flowers, animals, insects, and mythology
  • Materials included brass, steel, glass, pearl, and ivory
  • Black glass “mourning buttons” following Prince Albert’s death

Art Nouveau (1890-1910):

  • Flowing, organic designs with natural motifs
  • Female figures with flowing hair
  • Asymmetrical designs and whiplash curves

Art Deco (1920s-1930s):

  • Geometric, bold designs
  • Streamlined motifs
  • Early plastic materials in bright colors
  • Contrasting materials and color combinations

Mid-Century (1940s-1960s):

  • Simple, space-age designs
  • Atomic and starburst patterns
  • Colorful plastic materials, especially lucite

Specialized Button Types

Picture Buttons: Popular in the Victorian era, these detailed brass buttons depict scenes from literature, mythology, or daily life.

Realistics: Buttons shaped like animals, plants, or objects, especially popular during the Victorian era.

Sporting Buttons: Depicting hunting scenes, horses, or other sporting activities, popular in the 18th and 19th centuries.

Military and Uniform Buttons: Often feature emblems, insignia, or regimental symbols that can be researched for precise dating.

Studio Buttons: Handcrafted art buttons, often signed by the artist, becoming popular from the late 20th century to the present.

Antique Button Values by Type and Age

Average market prices for collectible buttons (2023 values)

  </tbody>
</table>
<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Evaluating Condition and Value</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">The condition of antique buttons significantly impacts their value. Understanding what collectors look for can help you better assess the worth of your finds.</div>

Condition Factors Affecting Button Value

Completeness: Buttons with all original parts intact are most valuable. Missing shanks, chipped edges, or other damage decreases value.

Surface Condition: Look for:

  • Scratches or abrasions
  • Chips or cracks
  • Color fading or discoloration
  • Metal corrosion or inappropriate cleaning

Originality: Original finishes are preferred over refinished or restored buttons. Collectors value the natural patina that develops with age.

Rarity: Unusual materials, designs, or limited production runs command higher prices than common buttons.

Collection of rare and valuable antique buttons arranged on vintage fabric

What Makes Buttons Valuable

Several factors contribute to a button’s collectibility and value:

  1. Historical Significance: Buttons associated with important historical events or periods
  2. Artistic Merit: Fine craftsmanship, intricate details, or artistic designs
  3. Rarity: Limited production, unusual materials, or designs that rarely survived
  4. Age: Generally, older buttons with documented provenance command higher prices
  5. Documentation: Buttons with known history or that can be attributed to specific makers
  6. Completeness: Full sets of matching buttons are often worth more than individual pieces
<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Resources for Button Collectors</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">Button collecting, or &ldquo;buttonology,&rdquo; has a vibrant community with numerous resources available to help with identification and valuation.</div>

External Resources for Button Collectors and Researchers

Button Collecting Organizations

Joining button collecting clubs and attending conventions can provide invaluable hands-on learning opportunities:

  1. National Button Society: Founded in 1938, hosts annual conventions and publishes reference materials
  2. State and Regional Button Societies: Local groups often hold meetings and sales
  3. Online Communities: Facebook groups and forums dedicated to button collecting

Reference Books

Some essential books for button collectors include:

  • “The Big Book of Buttons” by Elizabeth Hughes and Marion Lester
  • “Button Power: 125 Years of Saying It with Buttons” by Christen Carter and Ted Hake
  • “Antique & Collectible Buttons: Identification & Values” by Debra J. Wisniewski
  • “Uniform Buttons of the United States” by Warren K. Tice
<h2 class="section-header__title"> 
<span>Tips for Beginning Button Collectors</span>

</h2>

<div class="section-header__body">If you&rsquo;re just starting your journey into button collecting, these practical tips will help you build a knowledgeable approach.</div>
  1. Start with what interests you: Focus on a specific material, era, or style that appeals to you personally
  2. Store properly: Use acid-free containers and avoid exposing buttons to extreme temperatures or humidity
  3. Document your collection: Keep records of where you acquired each button and any known history
  4. Handle with care: Use cotton gloves when handling delicate buttons to prevent oils from your skin damaging finishes
  5. Join a community: Connect with other collectors who can share knowledge and experience
  6. Build a reference library: Invest in good identification guides specific to your collecting interests
  7. Practice identification: Train your eye by examining known examples at museums or collector events

Common Questions About Antique Button Identification

How do I identify old buttons? 
To identify old buttons, examine these key features:

    

  • Material: Different materials were popular in specific eras (shell, metal, glass, early plastics)
    • 

  • Construction: Check the back for shank style or sew-through holes
    • 

  • Markings: Look for manufacturer’s marks, patent dates, or country of origin
    • 

  • Design style: Note artistic elements that correspond to historical periods
    • 

  • Wear patterns: Authentic old buttons should show appropriate wear consistent with their age
    • 



One particularly reliable method for metal buttons is examining the shank. If the shank is a twisted wire embedded in the metal, it was likely manufactured before 1918 and is considered an "antique" button.

How do you identify old flat buttons? 
Flat button identification, particularly colonial-era metal buttons, can be done by examining:

    

  1. Back seams: Look for casting seams that indicate how the button was manufactured
    2. 

  2. Metal composition: Colonial buttons were commonly made of brass, copper, pewter, or silver
    3. 

  3. Attachment method: Early flat buttons often had a simple wire shank embedded in the back
    4. 

  4. Decorative elements: Many colonial buttons featured simple designs or regimental/military motifs
    5. 

  5. Size and proportion: Colonial buttons typically have a different scale than modern ones
    6. 



Military, political, or official buttons from this time period might have a rim, or the center could be formed around a pin. Authentic colonial buttons will show appropriate aging, patina, and wear patterns consistent with their age.

Is there any value in old buttons? 
Yes, many old buttons can be quite valuable, especially to collectors. Factors affecting button value include:

    

  • Age: Pre-1918 buttons generally command higher prices
    • 

  • Rarity: Unusual designs, materials, or limited productions are more valuable
    • 

  • Condition: Buttons in excellent condition with original finishes are worth more
    • 

  • Historical significance: Military, political, or buttons with known provenance can be worth substantial amounts
    • 

  • Artistic merit: Buttons with fine craftsmanship or by notable makers fetch premium prices
    • 



A complete antique button collection could be worth substantially more than individual buttons. Some rare individual buttons, particularly those with historical significance, can sell for hundreds or even thousands of dollars at specialized auctions.

How can you tell if a button is vintage? 
To determine if a button is truly vintage (generally 40-100 years old), look for these indicators:

    

  1. Materials: Vintage buttons often feature materials popular in specific decades (Bakelite from the 1930s-40s, Lucite from the 1940s-60s)
    2. 

  2. Manufacturing techniques: Examine construction methods that match the claimed period
    3. 

  3. Design elements: Check if the artistic style matches the era (Art Deco, Mid-Century Modern, etc.)
    4. 

  4. Maker’s marks: Research any back stamps or maker’s marks to confirm authenticity
    5. 

  5. Age-appropriate wear: Vintage buttons should show wear consistent with their age
    6. 

  6. Color palette: Certain colors were popular in specific decades
    7. 



If available, compare the button to authenticated examples from reference books or museum collections.

What is the best way to clean antique buttons without damaging them? 
Cleaning antique buttons requires caution as improper methods can destroy value. Different materials require different approaches:

    

  • Metal buttons: Gently clean with a soft, dry toothbrush. Avoid harsh chemicals that remove patina, which collectors value.
    • 

  • Pearl/shell buttons: Wipe with a slightly damp soft cloth only. Never soak or use chemicals.
    • 

  • Fabric buttons: Light vacuuming with a small attachment and soft brush.
    • 

  • Plastic buttons (Bakelite, celluloid): Wipe with a barely damp cloth. Never soak or use alcohol, which can damage these materials.
    • 

  • Glass buttons: Clean with mild soap and water, dry thoroughly.
    • 

  • Wooden buttons: Dust with a soft brush; never wet.
    • 



When in doubt, consult a professional conservator, especially for valuable buttons. Often, excessive cleaning can reduce the value of antique buttons by removing their natural patina.

What were the most popular button materials used in different time periods? 
Button materials evolved significantly throughout history:

    

  • Pre-1700s: Horn, bone, wood, brass, pewter
    • 

  • 1700s-early 1800s: Silver, pewter, brass, fabric-covered, paste (glass) jewels
    • 

  • Mid-1800s: Shell (mother-of-pearl), porcelain, glass, brass stamped designs
    • 

  • Late 1800s (Victorian): Elaborate brass picture buttons, jet, glass, pearl, ivory
    • 

  • Early 1900s: Continued use of natural materials, early celluloid
    • 

  • 1920s-1930s: Bakelite, celluloid, early synthetic materials, Art Deco designs
    • 

  • 1940s-1950s: Lucite, plastic, modernist designs
    • 

  • 1960s-1970s: Colorful plastics, novelty shapes, mod designs
    • 

  • 1980s-present: Mass-produced plastics, return to natural materials in high-end garments
    • 



This timeline helps collectors narrow down a button’s age based on material composition.

Are there any apps or digital tools to help identify antique buttons? 
While there isn't a dedicated app specifically for button identification (as of 2023), several digital resources can help:

    

  1. General antique identification apps like Google Lens can sometimes provide starting points for research
    2. 

  2. Online button forums where collectors can post images for identification by experts
    3. 

  3. Digital archives from museums with button collections
    4. 

  4. Subscription databases like WorthPoint that include sold button auction listings with photos and descriptions
    5. 

  5. Pinterest boards curated by button collectors with identified examples
    6. 

  6. Button collector websites with searchable image galleries
    7. 



The National Button Society and other button collecting organizations also offer digital resources for members, including identification guides and archives.

What are the most valuable types of antique buttons to look for? 
The most valuable antique buttons typically include:

    

  1. Historical military buttons: Particularly Revolutionary War, War of 1812, and Civil War examples
    2. 

  2. Rare Bakelite buttons: Especially in unusual colors or carved designs
    3. 

  3. Hand-painted porcelain buttons: Particularly those signed by artists or from famous factories
    4. 

  4. 18th-century metalwork buttons: Including steel-cut and jeweled examples
    5. 

  5. Pictorial brass buttons: With rare or important designs
    6. 

  6. Political campaign buttons: From significant historical campaigns
    7. 

  7. Ivory and tortoiseshell buttons: Though ethical considerations and legal restrictions apply to these materials today
    8. 

  8. Jeweled buttons: Containing genuine gemstones or precious metals
    9. 

  9. Artist-signed studio buttons: Contemporary art buttons by recognized artists
    10. 

  10. Documented buttons from famous historical figures: With provenance from important historical clothing
    11. 



Condition is paramount - even rare buttons lose substantial value if damaged.

Conclusion

Antique button identification is both an art and a science, requiring careful observation, research, and practice. By examining materials, construction methods, markings, and design elements, you can unlock the stories behind these miniature artifacts and potentially discover valuable treasures.

Whether you’re a serious collector, an antique dealer, or simply curious about the history of buttons found in a family sewing box, the world of antique buttons offers a fascinating glimpse into past fashions, technologies, and artistic movements. The variety of materials, designs, and manufacturing techniques makes button collecting an endlessly engaging hobby with discoveries waiting to be made.

Remember that proper identification takes time and experience – connect with other collectors, utilize reference materials, and handle your buttons with care. With patience and knowledge, you’ll develop the skills to recognize and appreciate these small but significant pieces of history.

Category Price Notes
Victorian Brass Picture Buttons $5-$50+ each Higher for rare designs or excellent condition
Hand-Painted Porcelain Buttons $10-$100+ each Premium for artist-signed pieces
Bakelite Buttons $3-$35+ each Higher for unusual colors or carved designs
Military Uniform Buttons $5-$200+ each Value depends on rarity and historical significance
Mother of Pearl Buttons $1-$25+ each Premium for carved or inlaid designs
18th Century Metal Buttons $20-$300+ each Higher for documented historical significance
Celluloid Novelty Buttons $3-$40+ each More for rare colors or designs
Art Nouveau Glass Buttons $10-$75+ each Premium for signed pieces or complex designs