Quality Of Sterling Silver George V Salt Cellars Circa 1946

For collectors and appraisers, the phrase “George V sterling silver salt cellars circa 1946” raises an eyebrow. George V died in 1936; 1946 falls squarely in the reign of George VI. Yet the market is full of listings using “George V” as shorthand for a style rather than an exact reign. This article explains how to unravel the dating, judge quality, spot authenticity, and estimate value of mid-1940s British sterling salt cellars—especially those described (accurately or not) as “George V.”

First, Fix the Date: 1946 Is George VI, Not George V

• Historical reality: George V reigned 1910–1936. Any correctly hallmarked British piece made in 1946 will be George VI era.
• Why the mix-up happens:
  • Style lag: Traditional “cauldron” tripod salts, navette shapes, gadrooned rims, and pierced baskets popular in the late Edwardian/George V period continued into the 1940s, especially as firms reused pre-war dies and patterns.
  • Retail descriptions: Sellers sometimes use “George V” to suggest an aesthetic rather than a date, or they misunderstand hallmark cycles.
  • Later inscriptions: A salt cellar made in the 1920s–30s may carry a presentation inscription dated 1946, leading to confusion.
  • Marriage of pieces: Pairs or sets assembled later can include mixed dates; a “George V” piece might be paired with a 1946 mate.

Practical takeaway: If a listing claims “George V, circa 1946,” verify by hallmarks. The actual date of manufacture is what the date letter and assay marks say, not the style or inscription.

Hallmarks You Should Expect On Sterling Salt Cellars c.1946

In the United Kingdom, genuine sterling silver is marked with a suite of hallmarks. For post-1890 pieces (including 1946), you will not see a duty head. Instead, look for:

• Maker’s (sponsor’s) mark: Usually two or three initials in a shaped punch (e.g., A·B for Adie Brothers). It identifies the firm or individual who submitted the piece for assay.
• Standard mark:
  • England: Lion passant for sterling (.925).
  • Scotland (Edinburgh): Thistle is the sterling standard mark; Glasgow (then still open) used specific Scottish marks.
  • Britannia standard (.958) sometimes appears instead, but is uncommon for utilitarian salts in the 1940s.
• Assay office mark:
  • London: Leopard’s head.
  • Birmingham: Anchor.
  • Sheffield: Crown (used until the mid-1970s).
  • Chester: Three wheat sheaves and sword (Chester remained open until 1962).
  • Edinburgh: Castle.
• Date letter: A letter whose style and shield shape indicate the exact assay year. The letter varies by office; 1946 is a particular letter for each office cycle. Do not guess—match letter and shield to the correct office/year.
• Optional commemoratives: Unlike 1935 (George V Silver Jubilee) or later coronations, 1946 has no standard commemorative mark that changes the above.

Clarity checks for hallmarks:

• All components should be well-struck, correctly spaced, and consistent with each other (e.g., a Birmingham anchor shouldn’t be paired with a London date letter style).
• On pairs or sets, all salts and their spoons should carry the same maker, office, and date letter—or at least the same era—unless openly sold as assembled.
• Glass liners are unmarked; do not expect marks on liners.

Red flags:

• “EPNS,” “EP,” “A1,” or pseudo-hallmarks without a lion passant/thistle/castle/leopard/anchor/crown/city mark indicate silver plate, not sterling.
• Imported continental silver sold through British assay offices can bear different import marks; for mid-century import, the marks look different from standard domestic hallmarks and often lack the lion passant. Verify carefully.
• Overstruck or reworked marks, blurred stamps, or mismatched office/date combinations suggest alteration.

Construction And Craftsmanship: What Quality Looks Like

Mid-1940s British salts span from serviceable utilitarian to refined hand-finished pieces. Quality indicators include:

• Metal gauge and weight:
  • Heavier gauge generally signals better quality. A small cauldron salt without liner may weigh 30–60 g; broader open salts can run 70–120 g. Weight alone does not prove quality, but light, “tinny” walls can suggest economy manufacture.
• Fabrication method:
  • Bodies: Spun or raised with hand finishing often show subtle concentric marks inside and crisp exterior transitions. Pressed or machine-stamped parts can look more uniform but may have softer edges.
  • Legs and feet: On tripod salts, legs should be cleanly soldered with tight joins and minimal excess solder. Flattened, misaligned, or wobbly legs suggest repair or lower-quality assembly.
  • Rims: Gadrooned or beaded rims should be even and well-defined. Soft, over-polished rims lose sharpness.
  • Piercing: If present, piercing should be crisp with squared edges; roughness or stretch indicates later cutting or poor work.
• Interiors:
  • Gilding (vermeil) inside the bowl was used to resist salt corrosion. Original gilding shows even tone with honest wear at high points; bright modern gilding may indicate restoration.
  • No gilding is not a defect if liners are used; many 20th-century salts relied on glass liners.
• Liners:
  • Cobalt blue glass is common, but clear or colored glass, and occasionally plastic (later replacements) appear. Original liners fit precisely, sitting secure without rocking. Replacement liners often sit proud or wobble.
• Finishing:
  • Even planishing or polishing, lack of file chatter, and crisp junctions show higher workmanship.
  • On stepped or paneled forms, planes should be true; warping or waviness suggests damage or thin walls.

Common 1940s forms:

• Cauldron salts with three hoof, bun, or pad feet; sometimes with rope-twist rims.
• Oval/navette salts with splayed foot and gadrooned or plain rims.
• Square or octagonal Art Deco-derived models with stepped bases.

Recognized makers of the period include Walker & Hall (Sheffield), Adie Brothers and Deakin & Francis (Birmingham), Garrard & Co. (London), among others. The maker’s reputation can influence perceived quality and value, but always corroborate with the workmanship in hand.

Condition Factors That Matter (Especially With Salt)

Salt is chemically aggressive to silver. Condition drives value more than any other variable for utilitarian silver.

• Pitting: Minute pinhole corrosion or peppered pitting inside bowls is common without liners. Light, stable pitting is tolerable; heavy pitting or perforations sharply reduce value.
• Cracks and splits: Stress cracks at rim corners, seams, or leg junctions indicate structural fatigue. Look under strong light.
• Repairs:
  • Leg re-soldering leaves heat discoloration, disturbed hallmark lines, or visible solder beads. Professional repairs can be tidy but still affect value.
  • Rim straightening leaves file or burnish marks; excessive loss of material at the rim indicates aggressive repair.
• Deformation: Out-of-round rims, rocking bases, or bent legs signal wear or mishandling.
• Over-polishing: Blurred hallmarks, softened gadroons, and rounded edges show metal loss from frequent aggressive polishing. This is permanent and detracts from definition and value.
• Liners:
  • Chips (especially to the rim), cracks, or clouding. Original liners with minor edge nibbling are acceptable; significant damage or modern replacements reduce value.
• Engravings and inscriptions:
  • Monograms, crests, or presentation inscriptions may increase or decrease appeal depending on buyer taste. Erased cartouches leave a telltale flat “scuff” or dish.

Completeness:

• Pairs and sets: A true set of four with matching marks commands a premium. Singles bring less, though attractive singles still sell.
• Spoons: Original matching salt spoons add value. Mismatched or plated spoons are common and modestly reduce price.

Appraising The Market: What Drives Value

While markets move with fashion and region, these factors consistently shape value for 1940s British sterling salts:

• Maker: Top London houses (Garrard, Asprey-supplied pieces) and respected Sheffield/Birmingham firms often carry premiums. Minor makers with solid craftsmanship still perform well.
• Design and form:
  • Desirable: Cauldron salts with crisp hoof feet, finely pierced baskets with liners, sharp Deco geometric forms, and engraved armorials of interest.
  • Less desirable: Very plain, light-gauge bowls without liners, especially singles.
• Gauge and size: Heavier, larger salts feel luxurious; collectors respond to tactile quality.
• Condition: Clean interiors (gilded or well-protected), unworn rims, original liners and spoons, and undisturbed hallmarks are the ideal.
• Set status and boxing: A cased pair or set of four in the original fitted box enhances desirability.
• Hallmark clarity: Sharp, legible, and consistent marks support confidence; smudged or partial strikes dampen enthusiasm.
• Provenance: A documented gift, service award, or retailer’s label (e.g., inside a fitted case) can nudge value upward.

Very general pricing guidance (for educational context; verify against current local sales):

• Common Birmingham or Sheffield pairs, solid condition with liners: mid hundreds in most markets.
• Attractive Deco or high-finish pairs by noted makers: higher hundreds.
• Sets of four with box and spoons, excellent condition: from higher hundreds to low thousands depending on maker and design.
• Singles or worn examples: lower ranges but still saleable if attractive.

Remember: Currency, region, and sales venue (dealer retail vs. auction vs. private sale) matter.

Care, Use, And Preservation

• If using with table salt, always employ liners or add a food-safe barrier. Wipe interiors immediately after service.
• Avoid salt contact on bare silver interiors; even gilding will eventually suffer if left wet or salty.
• Polishing:
  • Prefer gentle, non-abrasive silver creams and soft cloths.
  • Avoid aggressive dips on gilded interiors; they can strip or dull gilding.
  • Do not polish to “mirror new.” Preserve patina and crisp edges.
• Storage:
  • Keep dry. Store in soft pouches or acid-free tissue. Separate pieces to prevent abrasion.
  • If cased, ensure the case is clean and dry; old silk can hold moisture.
• Conservation:
  • Professional regilding of interiors can be appropriate for heavily pitted bowls, but disclose in sale.
  • Have structural repairs (legs, splits) done by a silver specialist; improper soldering harms value.

Practical Checklist For Appraising “George V” Sterling Salt Cellars Circa 1946

• Verify the era: Confirm date letter and assay office; 1946 is George VI, not George V.
• Confirm sterling: Look for lion passant (or thistle for Scottish), proper city mark, maker’s punch; avoid EPNS/pseudo marks.
• Check consistency: On pairs/sets, do the hallmarks match across all pieces and spoons?
• Examine construction: Gauge, leg joints, rim sharpness, and overall symmetry.
• Inspect interiors: Original gilding? Liner fit and condition? Any pitting?
• Assess condition: Over-polishing, repairs, splits, deformation, erased inscriptions.
• Evaluate completeness: Are the original liners and spoons present? Is there a fitted case?
• Consider maker and design: Recognized maker? Attractive form (cauldron, navette, Deco)?
• Weigh judiciously: Note weight as a quality clue, but prioritize craftsmanship and condition.
• Document findings: Photograph hallmarks, measurements, weights, and any issues for records.

Short FAQ

Q: How can I quickly tell if a 1946 salt cellar is truly sterling? A: Look for a proper hallmark suite: maker’s initials, a lion passant (or Scottish equivalent), an assay office mark (anchor, leopard, crown, etc.), and a date letter. If it says EPNS or lacks the standard/office marks, it’s plate.

Q: Why do some sellers call 1940s salts “George V”? A: They’re often referring to the style (traditional cauldron or Edwardian revival forms) rather than the monarch. Proper dating relies on the date letter and office mark, not the style.

Q: Are glass liners essential? A: Historically they protect silver from salt. Collectors prefer original, well-fitting liners. Replacements are acceptable but can reduce value; missing liners mean you should not use salt directly in the bowl.

Q: Should I regild a worn interior? A: For heavy pitting or active corrosion, professional regilding can stabilize and improve usability. Keep documentation and disclose the work if selling; originality often commands more value.

Q: Do matching spoons matter? A: Yes. Original matching sterling salt spoons enhance desirability. Mismatched or plated spoons are common and slightly reduce value, but the cellar’s own quality and condition remain primary.

In sum, “George V salt cellars circa 1946” are usually George VI-era sterling pieces in a George V style. Let the hallmarks set the date, let craftsmanship and condition guide quality, and weigh maker, completeness, and aesthetics to form a realistic appraisal.