Romain De Tirtoff 23 November 1892 21 April 1990 Signed Gouache

Romain de Tirtoff—known to the world as Erté—was the visual lexicon of Art Deco elegance. For collectors and appraisal enthusiasts, a signed gouache by Erté sits at the sweet spot where theater, fashion, and decorative fine art meet. This guide explains how to recognize, assess, and value an authentic Erté gouache, with practical pointers on signatures, materials, condition, and market realities.

Who Was Romain de Tirtoff (Erté)?

• Lifespan: 23 November 1892 – 21 April 1990.
• Profession: Illustrator, costume and set designer, fashion and graphic artist; later, sculptor and designer of limited-edition multiples.
• Notoriety: Over 200 covers for Harper’s Bazaar beginning in 1915; stage and costume designs for Parisian venues such as the Folies-Bergère and the Paris Opera; the quintessential Art Deco aesthetic across media.
• Style: Stylized, elongated figures; luxurious ornament; sinuous line; opulent color with metallic accents; theatrical flair.

Erté’s original gouaches capture the genesis of his graphic and theatrical ideas—unique works that preceded (or paralleled) magazine covers, stage productions, and later limited editions. They are distinct from his widely circulated prints and serigraphs.

Understanding an Erté Signed Gouache

A “signed gouache” denotes an original, one-of-one painting executed in opaque watercolor (gouache), typically on paper or board, bearing the artist’s signature.

Key characteristics to look for:

• Medium

  • Opaque watercolor (gouache) often layered over a graphite underdrawing.
  • Common presence of white bodycolor (opaque white highlights) and metallic pigments (gold/silver gouache).
  • Brushwork should be visible under magnification; edges of color shapes have a hand-painted character rather than dot or screen patterns.

• Support

  • Heavy wove paper, illustration board, or watercolor paper.
  • Papers such as BFK Rives or similar artist papers appear on later works; earlier costume designs can be on varied papers, sometimes with pasted elements.
  • Verso may show pencil notations, numbering, or studio handling marks.

• Size

  • Varies. Many costume designs and cover designs fall roughly between 10 x 8 in and 20 x 15 in (25 x 20 cm to 50 x 38 cm), but there are larger works too.
  • Stage/costume sheets may be vertical formats; fashion/graphic compositions may vary.

• Signature conventions

  • Typically “Erté” with an acute accent over the final “e” (ERTÉ or Erté), often at lower right; sometimes lower left. Occasional all-caps stylization.
  • Signature usually in ink or paint; it may be accompanied by a date (e.g., “1923”) or a title.
  • Some works bear notes or instructions in French, particularly costume designs (fabric notes, color calls), and sometimes a production title.
  • Beware: not every authentic Erté gouache is dated, and some earlier works may show different writing hands for production notations.

• Subject matter

  • Fashion plates and Harper’s Bazaar-related imagery: glamorous figures, ornate draperies, stylized flora/fauna.
  • Stage/costume designs: full-figure characters, headdresses, accessories, with precise garment detailing; sometimes fabric swatches pinned or glued to the sheet (surviving examples are coveted).
  • Mythological or allegorical figures; later decorative compositions that echo his signature Art Deco motifs.

• Distinguishing from prints

  • Gouache: hand-painted, no uniform dot matrix; raised paint in dense areas; corrections visible; pencil underdrawing may peek through.
  • Serigraph/lithograph: uniform ink layers, often editioned (e.g., 125/300); may carry a hand signature, which can confuse buyers—these are multiples, not unique works.
  • Pochoir (stencil-color prints) from the 1910s–1920s can look hand-painted; examine for repeated stencil boundaries and consistent color edges across comparative examples; pochoir is printed, not unique.

Authentication and Attribution: What Matters Most

• Signature analysis

  • Compare the form of the “Erté” signature (accent placement, letterforms) against known authenticated examples from the same decade.
  • Check for natural integration with the medium; a signature that sits oddly on top of varnish or looks mechanically smooth can be a red flag.

• Material consistency

  • Period-appropriate paper and pigments; early works often show traditional gouache formulations; later works can include brighter synthetic pigments.
  • Metallic paints should oxidize or age naturally; mirror-like metallic leaf is rare and, if present, should be professionally evaluated.

• Underdrawing and process marks

  • Graphite lines for composition and grid marks are common, especially on costume designs.
  • Tape margins, registration lines, or layout annotations (for magazine work) support authenticity and intended use.

• Provenance and documentation

  • Ideal chain: original commission or publication → gallery or agent → private collection, with invoices or letters.
  • For works tied to Harper’s Bazaar, period publication references or editorial records bolster attribution.
  • Estate or gallery labels on verso (from recognized dealers who worked with Erté, particularly during his late-career revival) can help, but verify.

• Comparative research

  • Match your work’s figure type, ornament vocabulary, and palette with published Erté imagery from the same era.
  • Consider whether the piece relates to a known production, magazine cover, or series; thematic alignment strengthens the case.

• Red flags

  • Edition numbers on the image or margins (original gouaches are not editioned).
  • Paper that fluoresces unnaturally under UV (possible modern reproduction paper) paired with a claim of a 1910s–1920s date.
  • Overly “clean” surfaces with no pencil underdrawing or corrections in a context (e.g., costume design) where process marks are expected.
  • Signatures added to printed reproductions to simulate originality.

When in doubt, consult a specialist with documented experience in Erté’s original works on paper; major auction houses and vetted appraisers maintain comparables and can issue condition reports and opinions on authenticity.

Condition Factors and Conservation

Gouache is beautiful yet fragile. Condition can materially affect value.

Common issues:

• Flaking and powdering: Dense gouache passages can lift if abraded or poorly handled.
• Mat burn and toning: Brown lines along old window mats; overall paper darkening due to acidic mounts.
• Foxing: Rust-colored spots from mold or metallic impurities in paper.
• Tape stains: Pressure-sensitive tapes leave amber stains; old hinges can tear fibers.
• Light-fade: Certain pigments, inscriptions, and paper whiteness can diminish from UV exposure.
• Handling wear: Edge nicks, corner creases; for costume designs, losses where fabric swatches were removed.

Conservation and framing best practices:

• Avoid surface cleaning unless by a qualified paper conservator; lifting pigment is a real risk with gouache.
• Use 100% cotton rag or alpha-cellulose mats and backing; hinge with Japanese tissue and reversible wheat starch paste.
• Glaze with UV-filtering acrylic or glass; maintain a small air gap between glazing and paint surface.
• Keep relative humidity stable (around 45–55%) and avoid direct sunlight.
• Document any stabilization or inpainting in a condition report; ethical, reversible treatments are preferred.

Market Values and Comparables

Value depends on the intersection of authenticity, subject, date, size, condition, and desirability.

• Period and subject

  • 1910s–1920s fashion and stage designs are highly sought after, especially if linked to iconic productions or published covers.
  • Authenticated Harper’s Bazaar cover art (original gouache) commands a premium due to cultural significance and rarity.
  • Later decorative gouaches can be valuable, but generally trail the masterworks of the interwar period.

• Uniqueness and clarity of purpose

  • Works that clearly read as primary designs (fully realized compositions) tend to outperform workshop studies or variants.
  • Costume designs with annotations and intact fabric swatches can be especially desirable.

• Size and presence

  • Larger, finished works with strong color and classic Erté motifs (elaborate costumes, mythic figures, stylized geometry) attract robust bidding.

• Condition and restoration

  • Sound condition with original margins and minimal interventions boosts confidence; heavy restoration or losses suppress prices.

• Provenance and publication

  • Strong provenance, exhibition history, and references in publications bolster value and marketability.

Price guidance (broad, illustrative ranges; actual values vary by specific work and current market):

• Early costume/fashion gouaches with publication or production linkage: frequently mid five figures; exceptional examples can exceed that.
• Later decorative gouaches: often low-to-mid five figures, depending on size, subject, and quality.
• Minor studies, condition-compromised works, or uncertain attributions: can fall into the low five- or high four-figure arena.

Because Erté’s name appears on both unique works and numerous editioned prints, precision in identifying the medium is the critical first step in establishing value.

Documentation and Appraisal: How to Prepare

For an efficient appraisal, gather and record:

• High-resolution images
  • Front, verso, signature close-up, edges outside the mat or frame, and any inscriptions or labels.
• Measurements
  • Image size and sheet size (unframed), or sight size and frame size if framed.
• Media and support
  • Confirm gouache (opaque watercolor), any metallic pigments, and paper/board type if known.
• Provenance
  • Invoices, letters, gallery labels, exhibition catalog mentions, or publication references.
• Condition report
  • Note flaking, foxing, mat burn, tears, creases, prior restoration, or non-archival framing materials.
• Context
  • Any association to Harper’s Bazaar, a specific production, or a known series; include copies of comparable images if you have them.

Quick Checklist: Vetting an Erté Signed Gouache

• Verify it is a unique gouache, not a serigraph/pochoir/lithograph.
• Inspect signature: “Erté” with accent; placement, medium, and integration are consistent with period examples.
• Look for process clues: graphite underdrawing, corrections, notations; fabric swatches on costume designs.
• Assess paper/board: weight, watermark (if present), aging consistent with stated date.
• Examine condition: stability of gouache layers; evidence of mat burn, foxing, or tape.
• Review provenance: dealer invoices, estate or gallery labels, publications, or exhibition history.
• Compare style and subject with documented Erté works from the same era.
• Seek a specialist opinion if any aspect is uncertain.

FAQ

Q: How can I tell a gouache from an Erté serigraph if both are hand-signed? A: A serigraph has uniform, flat ink layers and is usually editioned (e.g., 75/250) in pencil; magnification reveals crisp, edge-consistent color areas with no brush texture. A gouache shows brushwork, subtle overlaps, and an underdrawing. Original gouaches are not editioned.

Q: Did Erté always sign with “Erté” rather than his full name? A: Almost always. His professional identity and signatures are predominantly “Erté” (with the accent), sometimes stylized in capitals. Production notes and titles may appear in another hand, but the signature should cohere with known examples.

Q: Are Harper’s Bazaar cover originals common on the market? A: They exist but are not common. Authenticated original gouaches for covers are highly collectible and can command strong prices, especially with documented publication history and good condition.

Q: My costume design has fabric swatches pinned to it. Is that normal? A: Yes. For stage and costume designs, pinned or glued fabric swatches and detailed annotations are entirely consistent with Erté’s working methods and can add to the piece’s desirability when intact and stable.

Q: Is cleaning a gouache safe? A: Not as a DIY project. Gouache layers can lift or smear; paper can stain. Only a qualified paper conservator should attempt stabilization or cleaning, and treatments should be reversible and documented.

A signed Erté gouache is a direct line to the artist’s creative process. With careful medium identification, signature scrutiny, and solid documentation, you can separate unique originals from editioned prints and confidently approach authentication and valuation.