When people search “Sotheby's antique appraisals”, they’re usually trying to answer one of three questions: Should I consign this? What is it worth for insurance/estate? or Is it authentic?
This guide explains what “appraisal” means in an auction-house context, what to photograph and document for a specialist review, and how to benchmark a value range using public auction comps.
Two-step intake
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Send clear photos of marks, construction, and condition. We’ll help you choose the right value type (auction estimate vs insurance), flag red flags, and outline the next best step.
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Auction estimate vs formal appraisal: the difference that matters
Auction houses (including Sotheby’s) are built to sell objects, so much of what people call “appraisal” online is really an auction estimate: a specialist’s price range for what an item could achieve in the right sale, at a specific time.
A written appraisal is different. It defines a value type (insurance replacement, fair market value, etc.), states an effective date, and usually includes enough documentation to stand up for an insurer, estate, or tax file.
- Estimate (auction): a sale-focused range; can change with season, sale placement, and category demand.
- Fair market value: commonly used for taxes/estate; reflects realistic market transactions.
- Replacement value: commonly used for insurance; often higher because it assumes retail replacement.
What to submit for a Sotheby's-style antique assessment
Whether you’re contacting an auction house, an independent appraiser, or an online specialist, the fastest path to a reliable answer is the same: provide identification photos + measurement + condition evidence. (This article is not affiliated with Sotheby’s.)
- Overall shots: front/back/sides plus a photo that shows scale.
- Measurements: height/width/depth; include any extensions/leaves.
- Marks: maker’s marks, hallmarks, backstamps, labels, serial numbers, inscriptions.
- Construction: joints, hardware, underside/base, back panels, drawer bottoms, tool marks.
- Condition: chips, cracks, repairs, refinishing, replaced parts, missing components.
- Provenance: receipts, prior appraisals, family notes, export papers (photos/PDFs help).
What specialists look at first (and why small details move big money)
Two antiques can look “the same” in a room photo and still be worlds apart in value. Specialists typically start by answering: Does the construction match the claimed period? and Is the condition honest?
Photo gallery: details that change value
These close-ups are examples of the kinds of details Sotheby’s-level specialists (and independent appraisers) use to authenticate, date, and grade an object.
Real Sotheby's auction comps: what antiques are selling for
Appraisers triangulate value by comparing your item to recent public sales of similar items and then adjusting for condition, rarity,
size, and demand. Below are three comps from Appraisily’s /mnt/srv-storage/auctions-data dataset (hammer prices shown do not
include buyer’s premium).
- Sotheby’s (2021-11-09), Lot 20: Irish George II mahogany bureau bookcase — £21,420 hammer.
- Sotheby’s (2010-11-17), Lot 194: George IV carved rosewood centre table (attributed to Gillows) — £17,500 hammer.
- Sotheby’s (2011-03-30), Lot 385: Irish George I gilt-gesso pier table — $37,500 hammer.
How to turn an estimate into a usable value range
If you’re deciding between “consign to a major house” and “sell locally,” don’t anchor on a single number. Build a range with a simple workflow:
- Match the object type: correct category, period, materials, size, and maker/attribution.
- Adjust for condition: cracks, restorations, replacements, refinishing, missing parts.
- Account for venue: marketing and buyer pool can lift prices, but fees and timing matter too.
- Separate hammer vs net: hammer price is not what a consignor takes home after seller’s commission.
When Sotheby’s is the right next step (and when it’s not)
- Best for: high-value or rare objects where global bidding and specialist marketing matter.
- Not ideal for: common antiques where fees/shipping/lead time overwhelm the upside.
- Insurance/estate files: often require a written appraisal with defined value type and effective date.
- Authentication disputes: may require in-person examination and sometimes third-party testing.
Photo checklist for an appraisal-ready submission
If you want the fastest, most reliable response from any specialist, photograph:
- Full object (front/back/sides) + one photo showing scale.
- Close-ups of marks: hallmarks, backstamps, labels, signatures, inscriptions.
- Construction details: joints, underside/base, hardware, fasteners, back panels.
- Condition evidence in raking light: chips, cracks, veneer losses, repairs, refinishing.
- A simple measurement note (or a photo of a tape measure beside the item).
Avoid heavy cleaning before you document—patina and faint marks can be evidence.
Search variations collectors ask
Readers often search for these Sotheby’s-related appraisal questions:
- how to get an antique appraised at Sotheby's
- Sotheby's valuation vs appraisal for insurance
- what photos to send to Sotheby's for an estimate
- does Sotheby's do written appraisals
- Sotheby's auction estimate how accurate
- Sotheby's appraisal cost and timeline
- Sotheby's consignment minimum value for antiques
- how to prepare antiques for auction consignment
- antique furniture Sotheby's estimate from photos
Each question is addressed above (value type, submission checklist, comps, and next steps).
References
- The Appraisal Foundation (USPAP context)
- IRS Publication 561 (Donated property valuation)
- Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute: Taking care of collections
Wrap-up
Sotheby’s (and similar houses) can be a strong option when your antique is rare, high-value, and best served by a global buyer pool. But the most important step happens before you submit: decide whether you need a sale estimate or a formal appraisal, then document the object with the photos and measurements that let specialists compare it accurately.