The fastest way to avoid overpaying (or underselling) is to separate two questions: (1) is it actually 14k gold? and (2) what kind of value are you asking for? A damaged 585 chain might be worth close to scrap, while a designer 585 ring with graded stones can sell for much more than melt.
If you only do five things:
- Photograph the stamp in raking light (tilt the piece; don’t use harsh flash).
- Look for companion marks: maker’s mark, “14K,” country marks, or plating marks.
- Inspect wear points for base-metal color.
- Weigh the piece (grams) and estimate melt value with the 0.585 factor.
- Confirm with an XRF scan if money is on the line.
Two-step intake
Share your 585-stamped piece details with an expert today
Tell us what you have (ring/chain/bracelet/watch), the stamp you see, weight if known, and what you need (sell/insure/value). We’ll route your photos and notes to the right specialist and reply with next steps.
We store your intake securely, sync it with the Appraisily CRM, and redirect you to checkout to reserve your slot.
What does “585” mean on jewelry?
In most hallmark systems, 585 is a fineness mark: it means the alloy is 58.5% gold by mass. That corresponds to 14 karat gold (since 14/24 = 58.33%, rounded to 58.5% in hallmarking).
The rest of the alloy (the remaining 41.5%) is usually a mix of metals like silver, copper, and zinc. Those metals are there to strengthen the jewelry and adjust color (yellow vs white vs rose).
You may also see 585 alongside a country word (like “Italy”), a maker’s mark (initials in a cartouche), or additional assay symbols depending on region and era.
Does 585 mean it’s real gold?
Usually, yes—a legitimate 585 stamp is intended to indicate real 14k gold. However, stamps are not a laboratory test. A dishonest stamp can appear on plated jewelry, or the mark can be misread (especially on worn, tiny hallmarks).
Quick reality check: if it’s stamped 585, the piece should behave like gold in three common ways:
- Color consistency: worn edges should not reveal bright silver or reddish base metal.
- Weight “feel”: solid gold feels dense for its size.
- Magnet: the main body should not be strongly attracted (clasps can have tiny steel springs).
If you see these letters anywhere near the stamp, treat it as a warning sign and confirm with a test: GP (gold plated), HGE (heavy gold electroplate), GF (gold filled), RGP (rolled gold plate), or GEP (gold electroplate).
10-minute checklist: confirm “585” and estimate value
This decision tree is designed for real-world use: it gets you to a reasonable “likely real / needs confirmation” conclusion and a ballpark value quickly.
How much is 585 gold worth?
There are two “worth” numbers that matter most: melt value (metal value) and resale value (what a buyer might pay for the finished piece). Melt is a floor; resale can be higher when design, brand, and stones matter.
1) Melt value (quick estimate)
Melt value depends on today’s gold spot price and the item’s weight. For 585/14k, the purity factor is 0.585.
2) Resale value (often higher than melt)
Resale can exceed melt when the piece is treated as finished jewelry (design, brand, and stones), not just metal.
- Brand / signature: recognized makers can outweigh metal value.
- Stones: diamonds and colored gems add value when verified and attractive.
- Condition: missing stones and repairs reduce resale even if melt stays similar.
Photo guide: detail shots that change the conclusion
If you’re asking “is it real?” you need photos that show evidence. This mini-gallery is a checklist of the most helpful hallmark and testing views (and it’s also what we recommend sending to an appraiser).
How to test a 585 stamp at home (and when to stop)
Use tests in a low-risk order and stop before you damage anything with resale value:
- Wear check: base-metal color at edges suggests plating.
- Magnet: body should not attract; clasp springs can.
- XRF scan: best non-destructive confirmation for selling/insurance.
- Acid kits: can mark jewelry—use cautiously and out of sight.
Real auction comps: what 14k / 585 pieces actually sell for
Below are example sold comps from Appraisily’s internal auction results database. The takeaway isn’t that your item will sell for the same price—it’s that 585-marked items span a wide range depending on brand, stones, and type (watch vs bracelet vs simple chain).
- Scrap path: compare your melt estimate to a buyer’s payout %.
- Resale path: stones/brand/design can keep pricing well above scrap.
- Watch cases: 585 is common on 14k watches; brand and movement often drive value.
When to get a professional appraisal (sell vs insurance vs donation)
For simple scrap, weight + XRF plus a couple offers is enough. For these cases, a written appraisal usually pays for itself:
- Insurance: replacement value is not the same as scrap value.
- Estate / divorce: you want defensible documentation and a value definition.
- Donation: tax files often need an effective date, condition notes, and market support.
- Designer / antique jewelry: maker marks and workmanship can exceed melt dramatically.
Search variations collectors ask
Readers often Google:
- what does 585 mean on a gold ring
- is 585 real gold or plated
- 585 vs 14k which is better
- 585 italy stamp meaning
- how much is 585 gold worth per gram
- how to test 585 gold at home
- does 585 mean 14k on chains and bracelets
- how much do pawn shops pay for 14k 585 gold
- 585 stamp on watch case meaning
Each question is answered in the guide above.
References
- World Gold Council (gold purity and market context)
- The Assay Office (Birmingham) (hallmarking education and assay marks)
- London Assay Office (UK hallmarking overview)
