Uncover The Past A Collectors Guide To Identifying Vintage Vicks Vaporub Bottles

Cobalt-blue Vicks VapoRub jars are small, sturdy survivors of 20th-century medicine cabinets. For collectors, they offer an approachable niche: abundant enough to find, varied enough to study, and visually striking on a shelf. Yet not all VapoRub jars are equal in age or desirability. This guide walks you through the practical markers—glass color, embossing, maker’s logos, lid types, and packaging details—that help you identify, date, and value vintage Vicks VapoRub bottles with confidence.

Note: The product name is commonly stylized as Vicks VapoRub. You’ll encounter variations on labels and lids across decades.

A Timeline of VapoRub Jars: What Changed and When

VapoRub’s packaging evolved steadily, and those changes leave dateable clues.

• 1910s–1920s: Early jar era

  • Background: VapoRub rose to national prominence during the 1918 influenza pandemic after earlier incarnations as medicated salves sold under the Vick family name.
  • Jars: Short, squat glass jars with continuous thread (CT) screw necks; nearly all found by collectors are cobalt blue.
  • Lids: Tin/steel screw caps, often with a cork or composition liner.
  • Embossing: “VICKS” frequently on the base; side embossing varies. Expect machine-made molds with well-defined seams—hand-finished examples are atypical by this period.

• 1930s: Brand standardization

  • Glass: Deep cobalt remains the rule.
  • Maker’s marks: Industrial glasshouses scale up production. Some jars show glassmaker logos and mold codes on the base.
  • Lids: Tin caps persist; cork liners give way to composition or early plasticized liners.

• 1940s–1950s: The “Durable glass” period

  • Owens-Illinois introduced “Duraglas” annealing improvements in the 1940s; some VapoRub jars bear “Duraglas” in script on the base or heel, pointing strongly to mid-20th century production.
  • Glassmaker logo shifts: Owens-Illinois used a diamond-and-oval “I” mark into the mid-1950s, later simplifying the mark. This transition helps bracket dates.
  • Lids: Lithographed metal caps with knurled edges are common; liners improve to phenolic or similar materials. Paper labels often note “Trade Mark Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.”

• 1960s–1970s: Modern convenience

  • Jars: Cobalt continues, with incremental changes in shape and base codes. Labeling increasingly features dual U.S./metric measures by the 1970s.
  • Lids: White or blue plastic caps begin replacing metal. Metal caps don’t disappear overnight—transition periods show both in circulation.

• 1980s and later: Corporate transitions and materials change

  • Ownership: Richardson-Vicks is acquired by Procter & Gamble in 1985; boxed packaging and labels reflect that shift.
  • Containers: Glass gives way to plastic in many markets from the late 1980s onward. Fully plastic jars indicate a later, non-vintage piece, though early plastic-capped glass jars still qualify as collectible.

Tip: Clear or amber jars are uncommon for VapoRub and may instead be from other Vicks products (e.g., nose drops or liniments). Most authentic VapoRub ointment containers are cobalt glass through the 1980s.

Glassmaker Marks and Date Codes: Reading the Base

Turn the jar over—the base can be the single best dating aid.

• Owens-Illinois (O-I)

  • Marks: Look for an oval with an “I,” often superimposed on a diamond on older pieces. A diamond-and-oval configuration generally points to c. 1929–1954 production; post-1954 jars often show a simplified “I in an oval/circle” without the diamond.
  • Date codes: Adjacent digits commonly represent plant and year codes. On mid-century jars, a number to one side of the logo often indicates the plant; the opposing number can be a one- or two-digit year code (interpret in context—“4” may mean 1944 or 1954, not 1904).
  • “Duraglas” script: Found primarily 1940s–1950s, a strong mid-century indicator.

• Hazel-Atlas

  • Mark: An “H” over an “A” (superimposed) signifies Hazel-Atlas, active prominently in the 1920s–1950s for household glass. If present, your jar likely falls in that range. Exact year often requires corroborating clues (lids, labels).

• Brockway, Anchor Hocking, Whitall Tatum, and others

  • Brockway’s “B in a circle,” Anchor Hocking’s anchor-and-H symbol, and Whitall Tatum’s “WT” variations appear on some pharmaceutical and household jars of the era. If you see these on a cobalt VapoRub jar, they can help narrow dating, but verify against lid style and labeling.
  • After corporate acquisitions (late 1930s onward), marks may change subtly; treat them as bracketing aids rather than absolute dates.

• Mold and cavity numbers

  • Single digits or small clusters of digits on the base are often mold or cavity identifiers, not dates. Always interpret numbers in tandem with the glassmaker’s mark and other features.

Collecting tip: Keep a small album of base photographs with notes. Over time, you’ll build a personal reference of codes tied to jar shapes and lid types.

Embossing, Shape, Color, and Lids: Physical Traits That Matter

• Color

  • Authentic VapoRub ointment jars are almost invariably cobalt blue—a saturated, inky blue that reads nearly black in low light. Variations in shade occur due to batch chemistry, thickness, and age, but the family resemblance is strong.
  • Beware modern decorative cobalt jars; they often lack pharmaceutical proportions and maker’s marks.

• Shape

  • Most vintage jars are squat with a slightly rounded shoulder, short neck, and continuous thread for a screw cap. Capacities vary (common sizes around 1–4 ounces), but the profile remains compact and ointment-specific.
  • Seam lines are well defined and reach into or just below the finish—evidence of fully machine-made manufacture, which is correct for the period.

• Embossing

  • Base: “VICKS,” sometimes “VICKS VAPORUB,” plus maker’s marks and codes. The presence of “Duraglas” usually signals 1940s–1950s.
  • Sides: Many jars rely on paper labels; some have “Vicks” or “VapoRub” embossed faintly on the shoulder or panel. Don’t assume absence of side embossing means a fake—label-only jars are common.
  • Trademark language: “Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.” or “Trade Mark Reg.” appears frequently on mid-century labels and sometimes on lids. This phrasing can help place a jar in the 1930s–1950s window.

• Brand spelling and punctuation

  • You may see “Vicks” (no apostrophe) and, less commonly on older materials, “Vick’s.” Use this as a soft clue only; packaging artwork lagged behind legal name tweaks, and variants can overlap in time.

• Lids and liners

  • Early: Tin/steel screw caps with cork liners (1910s–1920s); corrosion is common, and cork may be fragmentary or absent.
  • Mid-century: Lithographed metal caps with improved composition or phenolic liners; many show crisp “VICKS VAPORUB” branding on top.
  • Late: Plastic caps (white or blue) become standard in the 1960s–1970s. If your cobalt glass jar has its original plastic cap, it likely dates to this period or just after.
  • Matching matters: Color and knurl pattern of metal caps can vary by era. A pristine, obviously newer plastic cap on a heavily wavy early jar may indicate a replacement.

Rarity, Condition, and Value: What Collectors Pay

• Common jars (1930s–1970s):

  • Loose jars without lids or labels: typically $5–$15, with cobalt color remaining the chief appeal.
  • Complete jars with original metal lid, legible lithography, and some label remaining: $15–$30.
  • Mid-century mint examples with bright graphics and intact box: $30–$75.

• Scarcer configurations:

  • Early metal caps with intact cork liner and strong graphics: $30–$60.
  • Unopened, product-intact jars (pre-1960s): $50–$120+, subject to shipping restrictions for semi-solid contents and buyer caution.
  • Advertising displays, store stock boxes, or multi-jar sets: values vary widely; condition and completeness drive price.

• Condition factors that move the needle:

  • Glass: Chips on the rim or base dramatically reduce value; light scuffing is more forgivable.
  • Color and clarity: Deep, even cobalt with minimal haze is preferred. Interior residue can usually be cleaned, but pitted staining is permanent.
  • Lid: Originality, legible branding, and intact knurling are crucial. Rust halos are expected on older pieces but heavy perforation is a detraction.
  • Label and box: Paper ephemera routinely doubles value when attractive and mostly intact.

• Reproductions and lookalikes:

  • Decorative cobalt jars and modern candle containers are easy to mistake at a glance. Absence of pharmaceutical proportions, lack of proper base embossing, and overly glossy modern plastic caps are red flags.
  • “Vicks” marked plastic jars are not vintage; they may have collectible interest as brand ephemera but belong to a later era.

Safe Cleaning and Preservation

• Dry clean first: Use a soft brush to remove dust and loose grime from embossing and threads.
• Soak gently: Warm water with a mild, unscented dish soap softens residue. Avoid boiling water, which can shock glass or lift labels.
• Label care: If a label survives, keep water away from it. Use a slightly damp cotton swab to clean around the label and protect it with an inert barrier (e.g., polypropylene sleeve) if it’s flaking.
• Rust management: For metal lids, a light pass with a soft cloth and microcrystalline wax can stabilize surface rust. Do not sand or aggressively polish; that removes original lithography.
• Odor control: Menthol and camphor residues can linger. After cleaning, air the jar in a shaded, ventilated area. Avoid strong solvents that can craze glass or dissolve liners.
• Storage: Display out of direct sunlight to reduce label fade. Avoid attic or garage extremes of heat/cold. Do not store with contents in sealed conditions that can off-gas and corrode lids.

Quick Field Checklist

• Is the jar cobalt blue, squat, and machine-made with a CT screw neck?
• Does the base show “VICKS” and a glassmaker’s mark (e.g., Owens-Illinois, Hazel-Atlas)?
• Any “Duraglas” script (1940s–1950s) or date/plant codes bracketing mid-century?
• What lid is present—tin/steel with cork (early), lithographed metal (mid), or plastic (late)?
• Are label and box present, and do they mention Richardson-Vicks or Procter & Gamble (post-1985)?
• Condition check: rim chips, heavy haze, lid rust-through, label loss?
• Does the jar’s style align with ointment packaging, not a decorative cobalt container?

FAQ

Q: Are all authentic Vicks VapoRub jars cobalt blue? A: Nearly all vintage ointment jars are cobalt blue. Clear or amber containers are typically for different Vicks products. If you find a clear “VapoRub” jar, scrutinize embossing, proportions, and maker’s marks carefully.

Q: How can I tell the jar’s exact year from Owens-Illinois codes? A: Treat the logo style (diamond-and-oval vs. plain oval), adjacent numbers, and any “Duraglas” script as a set. The right-hand number next to the O-I logo often encodes the year within a known decade, but single digits repeat by decade. Cross-check with lid type and labeling to narrow it accurately.

Q: What’s the most valuable version of a VapoRub jar? A: Early jars with original, well-preserved lithographed metal caps and strong labels—especially with the original box—tend to command the highest prices. Unopened examples can sell higher but are less practical to ship and store.

Q: My lid is rusted. Should I repaint it? A: No. Repainting or heavy polishing erases original graphics and reduces value. Stabilize light rust gently and store in a dry, stable environment. If you need a presentable display, place the rusty original cap in a protective sleeve and use a period-correct spare for display—clearly labeled as a replacement.

Q: Is menthol residue harmful to the glass? A: The salve itself doesn’t harm glass, but trapped vapors can accelerate metal corrosion. Remove residue from the cap and threads, let the jar air out, and avoid sealing residual fumes in a closed display case.

Collecting Vicks VapoRub jars rewards careful observation. Master a handful of telltales—the cobalt hue, maker’s marks, lid generations, and mid-century “Duraglas” script—and you can place most jars within a decade, often within a range of just a few years. With a sensible approach to cleaning and preservation, even modest finds become crisp, historic accents in any medicine-bottle collection.