Uncovering History: A Comprehensive Guide To Identifying Old Buttons From The Civil War Era

Civil War uniform buttons distill a wealth of information into a small, durable artifact: unit identity, maker, material technology, and the logistical realities of wartime supply. For collectors and appraisers, correctly identifying a button’s era and origin is both satisfying and essential to preserving value. This guide walks you through the most reliable features—face design, construction, backmarks, and condition—to help you distinguish Union from Confederate, wartime from post-war, and originals from reproductions.

What Exactly Counts as a “Civil War Button”?

When appraisers speak of “Civil War buttons,” they typically mean buttons issued, purchased, or worn from roughly the mid-1850s through the end of the war in 1865, including pieces that saw continued use in the immediate post-war years. Keep in mind:

• Pre-war patterns often carried into early-war use, especially state militia buttons.
• Wartime scarcity—particularly in the South—led to locally made variations that differ from pre-war imports and Federal standards.
• Some designs remained in service beyond 1865, so construction and backmarks help refine dating.

Typical Civil War-era categories:

• Federal/Union Army and Navy uniform buttons
• Confederate central government and state buttons
• State militia buttons used on both sides (depending on allegiance)
• Private-purchase officer variants

Anatomy, Materials, and Construction: The First Clues

Understanding how a button is made helps date it and spot fakes.

• Structure

  • One-piece (cast or stamped): Common in earlier 19th century and in some Confederate locals. Often pewter or brass; shank integral or cast.
  • Two-piece (most common Federal wartime): A domed brass face and a separate back, joined at the rim (crimped/spun). A soldered wire shank projects from the center of the back.
  • Three-piece or variations: Less common; certain specialty or imported types.

• Materials

  • Gilt brass: The standard for Federal buttons. Gilding (thin gold wash) over brass yields a rich, bright finish that often survives in protected areas.
  • Pewter: Earlier militia and some Confederate locals; softer, heavier feel; often shows casting flaws.
  • Coin silver: Officer’s private-purchase or presentation-quality—scarce and valuable.
  • Hard rubber (vulcanite): Mid-19th-century innovation. Backmarks like “GOODYEAR’S PAT MAY 6, 1851” or “NOVELTY RUBBER CO” can indicate Civil War-era production.

• Shanks

  • Federal wartime two-piece: Soldered brass wire loop. The junction typically shows a solder “mound.”
  • Cast shanks (integral to the back): Seen on one-piece pewter or cast-brass Confederate locals; often slightly asymmetrical or crude.

• Sizes

  • Coat buttons: About 19–23 mm.
  • Cuff buttons: About 14–16 mm.
  • Vest studs and smalls: Smaller; verify these are not modern blazer replacements.

• Rims and Seams

  • Federal two-piece buttons have a distinct, even crimp or spun seam at the edge. Irregular, hand-soldered rims are more common on Confederate locals.

These physical attributes, taken together, often narrow the date range before you even consider the face design.

Union vs. Confederate: Face Designs and Variants

The face design is the fastest way to classify the button—but designs were reused, and exceptions abound. Cross-check with construction and backmarks.

• Federal/Union Army

  • General Service Eagle (1854 pattern and variants): A spread-wing eagle with a shield on its chest. Some have no letter (general service), while branch-of-service variants show a letter in the shield:
    • I: Infantry
    • A: Artillery
    • C: Cavalry
    • R: Riflemen (scarcer)
  • Staff and Officer Variants: Often show a more ornate eagle, wreaths, lined fields, or star clusters. Private-purchase officer buttons can be exquisitely detailed; look for high-relief engraving and superior gilding.
  • Corps/Specialty Examples: Ordnance (flaming bomb), Engineers and other staff departments have distinctive motifs or lettered shields—scarcer than general service.
  • U.S. Navy: Fouled anchor motifs; officer variants display more elaborate anchors and star fields.

• Confederate

  • Central Government “CS/CSA” Types: Designs include block “CS” on the shield or face, script “CS,” or “CSA” motifs. Originals are coveted and frequently reproduced.
  • Branch Letters: Block or script “I” (Infantry), “A” (Artillery), “C” (Cavalry) on otherwise plain shields.
  • State Buttons: Many Confederate states used state-seal designs, often adapted from antebellum militia stocks. Examples: Virginia’s Virtus figure, Texas lone star, Louisiana pelican, Georgia arch-and-pillar motif, South Carolina palmetto. Execution ranges from fine imported strikes to crude local manufacture.
  • Local/Crude Production: Due to shortages, Confederate locals exhibit uneven strikes, porous brass, soft or off-center details, and simple soldered or cast shanks.

• Post-war Lookalikes

  • Post-1902 U.S. “Great Seal” buttons prominently feature a crest of stars and a scroll with “E Pluribus Unum.” Civil War-era general service eagles lack that prominent scroll-and-crest combination. If you see the motto ribbon above the eagle, be cautious.

Because many designs—especially eagles and state seals—span decades, you must pair face design with construction and backmarks to confirm a Civil War timeframe.

Backmarks and Maker’s Marks: The Appraiser’s Roadmap

Backmarks are often the most definitive dating tool. Examine the back (use a loupe):

• Federal Makers You’ll Encounter
  • Scovill Mfg Co. (Waterbury), D. Evans & Co. (Attleboro), Horstmann (Philadelphia/New York), Waterbury Button Co., Schuyler, Hartley & Graham, and others.
  • Variations in spelling, punctuation, and address help date within a bracket. For example, “Scovill Mfg Co. Waterbury” vs. earlier “Scovill & Co.”; “Horstmann & Allien” vs. “Horstmann Bros & Allien.”
• Quality Marks
  • “EXTRA QUALITY,” “TREBLE GILT,” “EXTRA RICH,” sometimes in a depressed channel, are consistent with mid-19th-century manufacture.
• Hard Rubber Backmarks
  • “GOODYEAR’S PAT MAY 6, 1851,” “NOVELTY RUBBER CO.” These align with the 1850s–1860s and are a good wartime indicator if the face design matches.
• Confederate and State Backmarks
  • Many Confederate locals are unmarked or carry generic quality marks (“SUPERIOR QUALITY”) without a maker’s name. British import backmarks (e.g., Birmingham makers) appear on some Southern-purchased buttons. Crude or off-center stamping is common.
• Red Flags
  • Perfectly modern fonts, oddly spaced punctuation, or anachronistic firm names on otherwise “Civil War” designs suggest reproduction. Compare with known period backmarks.

If the backmark is legible, catalog it exactly (spelling, punctuation, layout). That line of text can make the difference between a common $40 button and a several-hundred-dollar variant.

Authentication: Separating Originals from Reproductions

Reproductions have been made for over a century, and some are convincing. Use multiple points of comparison:

• Metallurgy and Finish

  • Real gilt brass develops honest wear: bright traces in protected recesses, mellowed high points, and micro-scratches consistent with use or burial.
  • Artificial patina often looks uniform, chalky, or “painted on.” Sniff tests and solvents aren’t advisable; rely on visual and tactile clues.

• Shank Construction

  • Period two-piece have a soldered wire loop with a rounded solder base; consistent with age and wear.
  • Many modern reproductions show spot-welded or sharply machined shanks without an organic solder dome, or an alloy that looks too bright.

• Rims and Seams

  • Originals have even, period-appropriate crimping or spinning. Cast reproductions sometimes show mold seams, pitting, or a “soft” look to the edge.

• Design Details

  • Letter forms on authentic branch letters (I, A, C) are crisp but not laser-sharp; serifs and shield borders reflect hand-engraved dies.
  • Modern dies can produce overly sharp interiors or questionable fonts. Study known originals to internalize the “look.”

• Weight and Magnetism

  • A magnet should not stick to brass; if a coat button is magnetic, suspect a modern steel core or mixed construction not typical of the period.

• Backmarks

  • Cross-check the exact backmark with documented period variants. Inconsistent maker/location pairings or misspellings that don’t match known errors are red flags.

Above all, insist on agreement across design, construction, and backmark. One persuasive feature is not enough.

Condition, Conservation, and Value Drivers

Value depends on scarcity, demand, and preservation.

• Scarcity and Demand

  • Confederate central government and attractive state buttons (e.g., Texas, Louisiana, Mississippi) are highly sought.
  • Union general service are common, but certain backmarks, officer variants, and specialty corps can be scarce.
  • Proven battlefield or named provenance adds appeal.

• Condition

  • Original gilt traces, sharp devices, intact shank, and minimal corrosion significantly boost value.
  • Ground-dug examples with stable patina remain collectible; active corrosion or crushed forms reduce appeal.

• Cleaning and Conservation

  • Avoid abrasive cleaning, tumbling, acids, or ammonia.
  • For soil encrustations, a distilled-water soak and gentle wooden toothpick can be sufficient.
  • Neutralize and dry thoroughly; store in inert holders, not PVC.
  • For unstable bronze disease (powdery, active green), isolate and consult a conservator; do not seal in airtight containers until stabilized.

• Display and Storage

  • Use acid-free cards or labeled flips; maintain relative humidity around 40–50% with silica gel.
  • Keep away from direct sunlight and temperature swings.

Ethics and law matter. If acquiring dug artifacts, ensure they were recovered legally with permission and in accordance with local regulations. Document provenance when possible.

Fieldwork and Provenance: Context Matters

Buttons are often found on campsites, picket posts, or along march routes. While a single button can’t prove a regiment’s presence, context adds weight to identification and appraisal:

• Clusters of buttons matching a unit’s type (e.g., multiple “I” infantry eagles) strengthen a narrative.
• Associated finds (minie balls, eagle breast plates, state seal buttons) build contextual credibility.
• Written provenance—old field notes, labels, or period documentation—can elevate otherwise common pieces.

Practical Identification Checklist

Use this quick sequence to test a suspected Civil War button:

• Measure diameter: coat ~19–23 mm; cuff ~14–16 mm.
• Check construction: two-piece gilt brass with soldered wire shank is classic Federal; crude one-piece cast often points to Confederate locals.
• Read the face: eagle/no letter (general service), “I/A/C” in shield for Union branches, state seals, “CS/CSA” for Confederate.
• Inspect the rim: even crimp/spin for Federal; irregular solder or cast edge suggests local manufacture.
• Examine the backmark: period makers (Scovill, Horstmann, D. Evans, Waterbury) and quality marks (“EXTRA QUALITY,” “TREBLE GILT”) align with mid-19th-century production; many Confederate locals unmarked.
• Test magnetism: brass should not attract a magnet.
• Evaluate patina and wear: look for natural gilt remnants, honest edge wear, stable oxidation; avoid aggressively cleaned or uniformly “antiqued” surfaces.
• Cross-check: ensure design, construction, and backmark all fit the same era and side.

FAQ

Q: How can I tell a Civil War general service eagle from later Great Seal buttons? A: Civil War-era general service shows an eagle with a shield on its chest and no prominent motto scroll above. Post-1902 Great Seal buttons typically show the crest of stars and a ribbon with “E Pluribus Unum” above the eagle. Pair this with construction and backmarks for confirmation.

Q: Are Confederate buttons always crude? A: No. Many Confederate buttons, especially state-seal types, were imported or privately made to high standards. However, locally produced Southern buttons often show casting flaws, off-center strikes, and simple shanks due to wartime shortages.

Q: Does gilding mean it’s an officer’s button? A: Not necessarily. Many enlisted Federal buttons were gilt brass. Officer buttons often have finer detail, better gilding, and private-purchase backmarks, but gilding alone isn’t definitive.

Q: Can I safely clean a dug button to brighten it? A: Avoid aggressive cleaning. If needed, use a distilled-water soak and gentle wooden tools to remove loose soil. Do not polish; over-cleaning erases historical surfaces and devalues the piece.

Q: How important is the backmark to value? A: Very. A scarce maker or variant backmark can significantly raise value, even on a common face design. Record the exact wording and compare against documented period marks.

By combining face design, construction, backmarks, and condition, you can confidently identify and appraise Civil War-era buttons. As with all militaria, careful study and cautious handling protect both the artifact and its story.