Uncovering The Worth A Collectors Guide To Antique Fire Extinguisher Grenade Values

Antique fire extinguisher grenades sit at a unique intersection of early firefighting technology and decorative glass. They’re visually striking, historically fascinating, and—because many still contain hazardous chemicals—demand both knowledge and care. This guide explains what they are, how to identify and date them, what drives value, current price ranges, and how to buy, sell, and display them safely.

What Is a Fire Extinguisher Grenade?

• Purpose: Fire extinguisher grenades were designed to be thrown at a blaze so the glass would shatter and release a fire-suppressing liquid. They were sold for homes, factories, and public buildings.
• Era: The most recognized thrown “hand grenade” types were produced roughly from the late 1870s through the 1910s. Heat-activated ampoules (often called “Red Comet” style) continued into the mid-20th century.
• Contents:
  • Early examples: Saltwater brine or mineral solutions.
  • Later examples: Carbon tetrachloride (CTC), prized for its ability to smother flames but now known to be toxic.
• Forms:
  • Hand grenades: Tear-drop, egg, or bulbous bottles, usually with embossed brand names. Often sold with wall racks, wire cradles, or wicker netting.
  • Heat-activated ampoules: Small glass bulbs mounted in metal brackets that burst at a set temperature.
• Common brands and markings:
  • Harden Hand Grenade Fire Extinguisher (among the most common).
  • Red Comet (ampoules and brackets).
  • Others include Little Giant, Hayward’s, and various regional makers; rarity varies widely.

What Drives Value: The Key Factors

• Brand and embossing
  • Strong, crisp embossing and well-known brands increase desirability.
  • Scarcer makers, regional distributors, and unusual trademarks command premiums.
• Color and glass quality
  • Cobalt blue is usually the most coveted in hand grenades, followed by rich amber and emerald/aqua tones. Clear and pale aqua are common.
  • Intense amethyst can occur from manganese in the glass turning purple after UV exposure; artificially irradiated purple glass is less desirable to many collectors.
• Completeness and accessories
  • Original contents, intact cork/wax seals, paper labels, hangers, racks, cradles, and wicker netting add value.
  • Full boxed sets or wall-mount systems bring significant premiums.
• Condition
  • No cracks, chips, repairs, cloudiness (“sick” glass), or heavy interior staining.
  • Stable seals and legible labels are ideal. Stuck-on mineral deposits or salt crystals from brine suggest leakage and reduce value.
• Age and method of manufacture
  • Most are mold-blown with visible seam lines; sharp mold details and period-appropriate lip finishes support authenticity.
  • Earlier examples and scarce forms tend to be more valuable.
• Provenance and documentation
  • Photographs, invoices, or period advertisements tied to a specific building or event can add credibility and value.
• Safety and legal considerations
  • Because many hold carbon tetrachloride, there are handling and shipping restrictions that directly affect marketability and final price.

Identification and Dating: Telling What You Have

• Shapes and construction
  • Hand grenades: Egg, pear, and spherical shapes dominate. Seams typically run up the sides to a tooled or applied lip. Bases are often smooth; pontil scars are not the norm.
  • Heat-ampoules: Small sealed bulbs (clear or tinted) designed for brackets; usually mid-20th century.
• Embossing, labels, and fonts
  • Clean, proportional lettering with period serif fonts and correct spelling is a good sign.
  • Fake or fantasy embossing tends to look crude or overly perfect. Compare letter spacing and consistency across the bottle.
• Glass clues
  • Bubbles and minor waviness are common in 19th-century glass; flawless optical clarity can be a red flag.
  • Cobalt blue grenades should show consistent color; uneven or candy-like coloration may indicate reproduction.
• Contents and closures
  • Early brine leaves crystals if it leaks or evaporates.
  • CTC usually appears clear; never open, sniff, or test contents.
  • Original cork and wax seals often show age-appropriate shrinkage, cracking, or darkening.
• Labels and mounts
  • Period paper labels show fiber texture, toned paper, and ink oxidation, not glossy modern printing.
  • Iron wall brackets, cast hangers, and stamped hardware with period fasteners add confidence (and value).
• Brands to recognize
  • Harden Hand Grenade (common, many variants).
  • Red Comet (ampoules with metal brackets; later date).
  • Little Giant, Hayward’s, and other regional names are less common and may bring premiums, especially with strong embossing.

Current Market Values and Price Ranges

Prices vary with color, condition, accessories, and whether contents remain. The ranges below reflect typical results seen in recent private sales and auctions; standout pieces, documented provenance, or exceptional condition can exceed them.

• Common hand grenades (Harden and similar)
  • Clear/aqua, intact, no rack:
    • With contents and decent seal: $60–150 each
    • Empty or partially evaporated: $40–90
  • With original wall rack or wire cradle:
    • Single grenade with rack: $120–250
    • Pair/rack ensemble: $180–350
• Desirable colors and scarcer forms
  • Cobalt blue: $180–450 (higher for crisp embossing and full, sealed examples)
  • Amber or deep emerald: $150–350
  • Unusual shapes, ribbed/faceted designs, or scarce brands: $200–500+
• Heat-activated ampoules (often “Red Comet” type)
  • Single ampoule without bracket: $20–60
  • Ampoule with original bracket: $40–120
  • Multi-ampoule wall assemblies: $150–350
• Sets and original packaging
  • Original boxed sets (4–6 grenades) with crate and paperwork: $600–1,800+
  • Complete wall-mounted systems with signage: $400–1,200+
• Condition impact
  • Minor flakes or light haze: subtract roughly 10–25%
  • Cracks, major chips, missing tops: subtract 40–70%
  • Reproduction/fantasy or irradiated glass: typically $20–80, sometimes less
• Market notes
  • Regional pickup can improve prices for sealed CTC examples due to shipping restrictions.
  • Cobalt blue remains strong; clear/aqua is common and condition-sensitive.
  • Matching pairs and well-presented ensembles outperform loose singles.

Buying, Selling, and Shipping: Practical Realities

• Handling hazardous contents
  • Carbon tetrachloride is toxic. Do not open, heat, or pressurize. Avoid skin contact and inhalation.
  • If you suspect leakage (chemical odor, oily residue), isolate the item, ventilate the area, and consult local hazardous waste guidance before proceeding.
• Shipping constraints
  • Many carriers restrict or prohibit shipping CTC; air shipment is typically not allowed. Ground-only hazardous shipping is costly.
  • Local pickup or professional hazardous-material courier services may be necessary and affect final value.
  • Some sellers empty contents to ease shipping. Expect a value reduction when contents are removed. Disclose any changes.
• Listing and selling tips
  • Provide clear, well-lit photographs: full bottle, embossing close-ups, lip/closure, base, label, and rack/mounts.
  • Describe contents honestly: sealed with liquid, partially evaporated, or empty. Do not open to verify.
  • Note measurements and weight. Include provenance if known.
  • Be explicit about pickup vs shipping terms and any hazmat limitations.
• Buying considerations
  • Verify authenticity through embossing quality, age-appropriate wear, and correct mounts.
  • Be wary of freshly purpled glass or oddly pristine examples with anachronistic fonts.
  • Factor in local pickup costs or hazmat shipping before bidding high.

Care, Safety, and Display

• Safety first
  • Store sealed CTC grenades away from heat, direct sunlight, and living spaces. A cool, stable environment is best.
  • Use a secure display (shelf lip or discreet museum gel) to prevent falls. Keep out of reach of children and pets.
  • Never drill, vent, or “test” a grenade. Do not attempt DIY refilling or restoration.
• Cleaning
  • Dust exterior glass gently with a soft brush or microfiber cloth.
  • Avoid liquid cleaners near cork/wax seals or labels. Do not soak.
  • Never attempt to clean the interior of a sealed grenade.
• Preservation
  • For labeled examples, minimize UV exposure to reduce fading.
  • Document the piece: photographs, measurements, and any history to accompany future sales.

Quick Appraisal Checklist

• Identify type:
  • Thrown hand grenade vs heat-activated ampoule
• Note brand and markings:
  • Embossed name, paper label, patent/agent info
• Assess color:
  • Cobalt, amber, emerald/aqua, clear; watch for artificially irradiated purple
• Inspect condition:
  • Cracks, chips, cloudiness, interior residue, label legibility
• Check completeness:
  • Contents present? Cork/wax seal intact? Original rack/wicker/bracket included?
• Confirm age cues:
  • Mold seams, lip finish, period fonts, appropriate hardware
• Evaluate safety:
  • Any leakage or odor? Store safely, avoid handling excess
• Photograph properly:
  • Full views, close-ups, base/lip, accessories
• Consider logistics:
  • Pickup vs hazardous shipping; disclose restrictions
• Compare to recent ranges:
  • Color, brand, condition, and accessories aligned with market

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: Are antique fire grenades safe to keep at home? A: Many are, if handled and stored properly. However, carbon tetrachloride is hazardous. Keep sealed examples in a cool, stable environment away from living spaces, do not open them, and secure displays to prevent falls.

Q: How can I tell if my grenade is a reproduction? A: Look for overly perfect glass, anachronistic fonts, sloppy or fantasy embossing, and lack of age-consistent wear. Very intense, uniform purple coloring can indicate modern irradiation rather than natural sun-purple aging.

Q: Does having the original contents increase value? A: Generally yes, especially when paired with an intact seal and original rack or label. That said, contents complicate shipping and may limit the buyer pool to local pickup.

Q: What should I do if mine is leaking? A: Isolate the item, ventilate the area, and avoid contact. Do not attempt to open or repair it. Consult local guidance for hazardous waste handling and contact a qualified professional if disposal is required.

Q: Can I ship a sealed carbon tetrachloride grenade? A: Many carriers prohibit or heavily restrict it, especially by air. Ground hazardous-material shipping can be expensive. Be transparent with buyers and consider local pickup to avoid legal and safety issues.

By understanding how brand, color, completeness, condition, and safety considerations interact, you can confidently evaluate antique fire extinguisher grenades, make informed buying or selling decisions, and preserve these striking artifacts of firefighting history.