Uncovering The Worth Of Vintage Treasures: A Guide To Determining The Value Of Antique Buttons

Antique buttons are small canvases of design history—miniature artworks that document fashion, technology, and taste. To the trained eye, they can also represent meaningful value. Whether you’ve inherited a jar from a relative or source at shows and markets, understanding what drives price starts with identifying what you have, how it was made, who made it, and how scarce and desirable it is today.

This guide walks you through a methodical approach to identification, dating, and appraisal so you can price with confidence and care for your finds.

Why Antique Buttons Command Real Value

• Craftsmanship: From hand-engraved gilt brass to guilloché enamel and hand-painted Satsuma, buttons often showcase techniques akin to fine jewelry or decorative arts.
• Cultural crossover: Military and livery buttons appeal to militaria and heraldry collectors; railroad and shipping lines add transport history; mythological and naturalistic “picture” buttons attract art and Victoriana enthusiasts.
• Materials: Precious or premium materials—gold overlay, tortoiseshell piqué, fine enamel, carved mother-of-pearl—can elevate value.
• Scarcity and survival: Complete sets on original cards, large sizes, unusual themes, or limited workshop output can be genuinely rare.
• Display potential: Collectors often mount buttons for exhibition. Bold designs and larger diameters command attention (and premiums).

Value is rarely about age alone. Early 20th-century studio art buttons may outprice many 19th-century utilitarian examples. Likewise, a common military coat button can be worth little unless tied to a specific unit, campaign, or maker.

Material, Construction, and How to Tell What You Have

Correctly identifying material and how the button was made is your foundation for dating and valuation.

• Metals

  • Brass, copper, pewter, silver, and various gilded alloys appear frequently.
  • Indicators: A nonmagnetic response usually suggests brass/copper; steel and iron backs respond to a magnet. “TREBLE GILT,” “EXTRA RICH,” and similar backmarks signal 19th-century gilt brass. Engine-turned patterns, two-piece (shell over back) construction, and crisp die-struck details are positives.
  • Watch for re-gilding and overpolishing; sharp relief is preferable to softened edges.

• Glass and Jet

  • Pressed black glass can resemble Whitby jet. Glass is cool and heavier; jet is lightweight, warm to the touch, and organic. Glass may show mold seams and high luster; jet has a softer sheen.
  • Types include lacy glass, ruby flash, paperweight (encased designs), and Pietra Dura–style mosaics. Self-shanks in glass often indicate earlier production.

• Ceramic and Porcelain

  • China “calico” buttons feature transfer patterns (gingham, florals) and are typically sew-through; authentic examples show even glaze and crisp transfer edges.
  • Satsuma (ceramic with crackle glaze and gilt-overglaze painting) ranges from fine Meiji work to later tourist pieces; examine quality of gilding, handwork, and marks.

• Enamel

  • Guilloché: Translucent enamel over machine-turned metal. Look for even transparency and intact surface.
  • Cloisonné: Colored glass pastes separated by wires; clean cells and precise color fields are desirable.
  • Champlevé: Recessed fields in the metal filled with enamel; check for stable enamel without major losses.

• Shell and Organic Materials

  • Mother-of-pearl (MOP): Iridescent nacre, sometimes carved, engraved, or inlaid. Natural nacre shows layered depth; avoid assuming every iridescent look-alike is real MOP.
  • Horn, bone, tortoiseshell: Horn shows layered grain; bone reveals tiny pores; traditional piqué work features gold/silver inlay into tortoiseshell or MOP. Be aware of restrictions on endangered species materials where applicable.

• Early Plastics

  • Celluloid (camphor scent when warmed), Bakelite/Catalin (distinctive heft; Simichrome or hot-water smell test for formaldehyde can help, but use gentle, noninvasive methods), casein/galalith (milk-based, reacts poorly to prolonged moisture).
  • Many “Victorian-style” plastic reproductions exist; look for mold lines, bright modern paints, and too-perfect repetition.

• Textile and Passementerie

  • Silk, velvet, crochet, and wrapped-thread buttons have decorative value, especially with metallic thread or unusual techniques. Avoid crushing or moisture.

Construction details matter:

• Shanks: Self-shank (integral), wire loop, metal plate shank, or sew-through holes. Riveted and plate shanks, and certain loop types, help indicate era and origin.
• Layers: Many 19th-century “picture” buttons are multi-part; a domed stamped scene fitted to a back. Mechanical assembly traces and old solder are expected.

When in doubt, handle with a clean, dry hand and inspect under a 10× loupe in good light.

Dating and Identifying Makers

Makers and backmarks can unlock both date range and value.

• Backmarks and Inscriptions

  • British and French 19th-century gilt brass often read “TREBLE GILT,” “EXTRA RICH,” “EXTRA SUPERFINE,” “PARIS,” or “DEPOSE.”
  • American manufacturers include Scovill Mfg. Co. (Waterbury), Waterbury Button Company, and others. Uniform and livery buttons often carry explicit maker lines around the rim.
  • Studio or artisan buttons may be initialed or signed; small-batch work from the 20th century onward can be notably valuable.

• Construction Cues by Era (general guides)

  • Late 18th to early 19th century: Flat or slightly domed one-piece metal; simple engraved patterns; early “dandy” buttons.
  • Mid to late 19th century: Two-piece convex “picture” buttons, rich gilding, mixed materials, shell overlays, and elaborate motifs.
  • Late 19th to early 20th century: China calico, black glass vogue, enamel styles; broader mass production.
  • 20th century: Uniform buttons (World Wars), Bakelite and other plastics, studio art buttons from mid-century onward.

• Measuring Size

  • Button sizes are commonly noted in lignes. 1 ligne equals 1/40 inch (approximately 0.635 mm). Thus, 40 ligne ≈ 1 inch (25.4 mm).
  • Include mm and ligne in listings; larger diameters often carry premiums, especially in pictorial, enamel, and studio categories.

• Imagery as a Clue

  • Heraldic devices, eagles, anchors, crowns, regimental numbers, and transport logos can tie to specific timeframes and regions.
  • Myths, allegories, and commemoratives often align with Victorian tastes (1850–1900).

Always synthesize multiple clues—backmark, construction, materials, and iconography—to date confidently.

Rarity, Themes, Sets, and Size

Scarcity is relative: a common military pattern may be abundant, but that same design in an oversized officer’s version, gilt on silvered brass, or with a scarce maker can be rare.

• Themes that draw premiums

  • Military and livery with specific units or notable events.
  • Pictorials featuring animals (lions, owls), mythological figures, classical scenes, or finely detailed flora.
  • Transportation and industry (railroad, steamship, early automobiles, aviation).
  • High-art techniques (hand-painted Satsuma, exceptional guilloché, mosaics).

• Sets and Original Cards

  • Complete sets of uniform buttons, or civilian sets on original printed cards, can multiply value. Cards add provenance and condition protection.
  • Matching sets with consistent patina and construction suggest authenticity; mismatched backs can reduce set value.

• Size and Color

  • Large “display” sizes often outperform smaller versions, especially if design detail scales with size.
  • Unusual colors—cobalt glass, cranberry, intense enamel hues—can boost desirability.

• Cross-collectibility

  • Items appealing to multiple collector communities (e.g., a naval button that’s also linked to a famous shipbuilder) tend to achieve higher prices.

Condition, Authentication, and Avoiding Reproductions

Grading condition precisely and recognizing alterations protects both value and reputation.

• A practical grading vocabulary

  • Mint/Near Mint: No visible wear; sharp relief; original surface and shank intact.
  • Excellent: Minute, hard-to-see rubs; no significant chips or losses; shank straight.
  • Very Good: Light high-point wear; small, stable flaws (tiny glaze fleck, mild enamel rub); shank sound.
  • Good: Noticeable wear, minor chips or gilding loss; shank may be slightly bent; still displays well.
  • Fair/Poor: Significant damage—cracks, chips, enamel loss, corrosion, or replaced shank.

• Common issues and their impact

  • Enamel losses, cracks in ceramic, chips in glass, major gilding wear, verdigris (green copper corrosion), active rust, bent or replaced shanks, and heavy polishing reduce value.
  • “Bright, brassy” overpolished metal often signals diminished collectible appeal.

• Recognizing reproductions and altered pieces

  • Soft details and pitted surfaces from cast copies of die-struck originals.
  • Incongruent shanks: modern wire loops roughly soldered, or off-center shanks on supposed factory pieces.
  • Artificial aging: uniform brown washes, “dirt” embedded inconsistently, or suspiciously even patina.
  • Plastics masquerading as earlier materials: inspect with loupe; look for modern mold seams and repetitive textures.
  • Satsuma fakes: heavy, bright white glaze; printed-looking decoration; sloppy gilding; marks added to impress.

• Tools that help

  • 10× loupe, small magnet, digital calipers, precise scale, neutral daylight or high-CRI lamp, UV flashlight (some modern paints fluoresce), soft brush.
  • Avoid destructive tests. If you use chemical tests for plastics, do so sparingly and on inconspicuous areas.

Authenticity is cumulative: one red flag may be explainable, but multiple inconsistencies merit caution.

Researching the Market and Pricing

Valuation blends identification with current demand. Approach pricing in stages.

• Build solid comparables (comps)

  • Search for truly sold examples of the same pattern, maker, material, size, and condition. Note sale dates—markets move.
  • Adjust for condition, size, and completeness (single vs set; on card vs loose).
  • Record hammer prices separately from buyer’s premiums or fees to avoid confusion.

• Typical range cues (very general, condition-dependent)

  • Common mother-of-pearl and basic 19th-century brass: low to modest values per piece.
  • Quality brass “picture” buttons with crisp scenes: moderate to high double digits; scarce subjects can reach into the hundreds.
  • Satsuma and fine enamel: mid to high double digits, upward with exceptional artistry, size, or provenance.
  • Uniform/military: common ranks and recent periods are modest; rare regiments, early conflicts, or exceptional makers can escalate substantially.
  • Studio art buttons (20th century onward): wide range; sought-after artists can command strong prices.

Note: These are directional indicators only. Specifics such as maker, subject matter, and condition can swing values dramatically.

• Pricing strategy

  • Establish three numbers: quick-sale price (wholesale to a dealer or at a show), fair-market listing price (typical online listing), and stretch price (for top-condition or rare examples).
  • For sets, consider per-piece value versus set premium; intact cards can bring 1.5–3× the sum of individual loose buttons.
  • Disclose any flaws clearly. Serious buyers reward accuracy.

• When to seek a formal appraisal

  • Unusual materials (piqué tortoiseshell, exceptional enamel), significant military/livery pieces, early workshop rarities, or documented provenance.
  • Large groupings where sorting, attribution, and prioritization can significantly change outcomes.

Practical Checklist

• Identify the material and construction

  • Note metal type, presence of gilding, enamel technique, glass vs jet, ceramic type, shell/organic, or early plastic.
  • Examine the shank type and assembly (one-piece, two-piece, riveted, self-shank).

• Document marks and measurements

  • Record all backmarks and inscriptions; photograph front and back.
  • Measure diameter in mm and lignes (1 ligne = 1/40 inch ≈ 0.635 mm).

• Evaluate design and theme

  • Describe subject matter precisely (e.g., “lion rampant in wreath,” “anchor with crown,” “guilloché sunburst”).

• Grade condition

  • Note chips, cracks, enamel/gilding losses, corrosion, bent/replaced shanks, and evidence of polishing or repairs.

• Research comparables

  • Find sold examples matching your piece as closely as possible; adjust for condition and size; note dates and venues.

• Decide pricing and venue

  • Set quick-sale, fair-market, and stretch prices; choose selling channel (dealer, show, auction, marketplace).

• Preserve correctly

  • Store in acid-free materials; keep metals dry; separate reactive combinations (e.g., avoid metal touching fabric long-term); avoid PVC.

FAQ

Q: Are single buttons valuable, or only complete sets? A: Single buttons can be highly valuable if the subject, maker, material, or size is desirable. Sets and original cards add value, but scarcity and quality drive price for singles too.

Q: Should I clean antique buttons before selling? A: Only light, noninvasive cleaning (soft brush, gentle dry wipe). Do not polish away original gilding or patina, and avoid water on celluloid and unstable composites. When in doubt, leave as found and disclose condition.

Q: How do I tell brass from gold? A: Most “gilt” buttons are brass with a thin gold wash. A simple magnet test (brass is nonmagnetic) plus visual assessment under magnification helps. If you suspect solid precious metal, seek a professional test—avoid harsh acids on collectibles.

Q: What causes green deposits on old brass buttons? A: Verdigris (copper salts) forms in moist, acidic environments. Isolate affected buttons, keep them dry, and consult conservation-safe methods; aggressive scraping or chemical dips can permanently damage surfaces.

Q: Is age a guarantee of value? A: No. Age adds interest, but value depends on material quality, maker, subject, size, condition, and current demand. A 1930s studio enamel can outprice a common 1870s brass example.

With a careful eye and disciplined process—identify, document, grade, research, and preserve—you’ll uncover which vintage buttons are decorative curios and which are miniature masterpieces worthy of top-tier appraisal.