Uncovering Vintage Treasures The Ultimate Guide To Identifying Old Vicks Vaporub Bottles

If you’ve ever rescued a deep-blue “Vicks” container from a shoebox of miscellany, you know the little thrill it sparks. But is it truly old? Which era does it belong to? And how can you tell a Vicks VapoRub jar from other cobalt-blue containers? This guide walks you through the exact clues collectors use to identify, date, and evaluate old Vicks VapoRub bottles and jars—accurately and confidently.

Note on terminology: VapoRub has historically come in squat, wide-mouthed glass jars rather than tall bottles, but many collectors and sellers call them “bottles.” We’ll cover both the familiar blue ointment jars and genuine Vicks liquid bottles (like Nose Drops and VapoSteam) that turn up alongside them.

Why Vicks VapoRub Jars Captivate Collectors

• Iconic color and silhouette: The intense cobalt blue and compact, rib-shouldered form make VapoRub jars instantly recognizable and display-friendly.
• A household name: Created by Greensboro, North Carolina pharmacist Lunsford Richardson in the late 19th century, the Vicks brand renamed its best-known salve “VapoRub” in the early 1910s. Sales surged during the 1918 influenza pandemic, cementing it in American medicine cabinets.
• Abundant—yet varied: VapoRub was mass-produced for decades, but jars differ in embossing, size, color tone, maker’s marks, and lid styles—details that reward a trained eye.
• Gateway to bottle collecting: Because they’re common and affordable, VapoRub jars are a great study piece for learning glass marks, machine-made indicators, and label dating.

The Anatomy of a Vicks VapoRub Container

Understanding the basic components helps you see what’s typical—and what stands out.

• Form: Most ointment jars are short and round with a wide mouth and continuous-thread (screw) finish. Shoulder profiles range from gently sloped to slightly squared. Heights commonly fall around 1.5–3 inches depending on size.
• Glass color: Cobalt blue dominates. Shades vary from inky navy to brighter sapphire. Very light or oddly tinted examples exist but are less common.
• Embossing: Look for “VICKS” or “VICKS VAPORUB” embossed on the base or, less often, faintly on the sides. Some jars are unembossed and rely on paper labels.
• Capacity marks: Some bases carry embossed size information (e.g., “1 OZ,” “2 OZ”). Others omit it.
• Closures:
  • Early to mid-20th century: Tin/steel screw caps, often knurled, frequently printed with “Vicks VapoRub.”
  • Mid-century: Lithographed metal caps; some show “Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.” near the logo.
  • Late mid-century onward: Transition toward plastic caps; by the late 20th century, plastic tubs largely replaced glass.
• Labels: Paper labels vary over time in layout, typography, and required labeling content. Address formats and net content statements are especially useful for dating (more below).

Other Vicks vessels you may encounter:

• Vicks Nose Drops: Small, narrow-necked bottles (often clear or amber) with dropper tops—distinct from VapoRub jars.
• Vicks VapoSteam and other liquids: Typically in clear or amber bottles with narrower finishes and paper labels.

Maker’s Marks and Date Clues You Can Trust

The base of a jar often tells more than the front. Flip it over and read.

• Embossed brand text:
  • “VICKS” or “VICKS VAPORUB” on the base is a strong sign you have the salve jar.
  • Some bases show “THE VICK CHEMICAL COMPANY” variations on earlier examples.
• Glasshouse logos (common on machine-made jars):
  • Owens-Illinois Glass Company: An “I” inside an “O” (oval/circle) with numbers flanking it. In general:
    • Plant code to the left, year code to the right.
    • One-digit year codes were used in the 1930s–1950s (context needed to pin the decade).
    • Two-digit year codes appear late 1950s onward.
    • Not every cobalt jar will carry this mark, but when present it’s a reliable date anchor.
  • Hazel-Atlas Glass Company: “H” over “A” monogram, used roughly 1920s–1960s. Known for cobalt containers and toiletries jars.
  • Brockway Glass: A “B” (often in a circle), used from the mid-1920s onward, sometimes with nearby date numerals.
  • Whitall Tatum: Variations including “W T” or “W.T. CO.” into the 1930s.
  • Anchor Hocking: An anchor with an “H,” used after the late 1930s. Note: Not all VapoRub jars carry glassmaker marks; some have only mold numbers.
• Mold and machine clues:
  • Machine-made seams running cleanly through the finish indicate 20th-century mass production (typical for VapoRub).
  • Raised mold numbers (single or two-digit) usually identify the mold, not the year.
• Paper label dating:
  • Company name: “The Vick Chemical Company” points to pre-merger production. Later labels may note “Richardson-Merrell” (late 1950s onward) or “Richardson-Vicks” (used in the 1970s–1980s), preceding P&G ownership (mid-1980s).
  • Address format: Large-city postal zones (e.g., “New York 17, N.Y.”) were used roughly 1943–1963. Five-digit ZIP codes begin in 1963. A label with a two-digit postal zone but no ZIP is a solid 1943–1963 indicator.
  • Net contents: Ounces only suggests older U.S.-market labels; dual ounces/grams becomes common by the 1970s and later.
  • Trademark phrasing: “Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.” and “Trade Mark” language is more common on mid-century labels and caps.

Cross-reference several clues. For instance: an Owens-Illinois mark with a one-digit “7” to the right plus a postal-zone label likely means 1947, not 1957—because the label style and cap graphics corroborate a 1940s date.

Variations, Rarities, and What Affects Value

• Size variations: VapoRub jars were made in multiple sizes (from small sample jars up through family sizes). Smaller sample jars with original labels or miniature display value can be especially appealing.
• Color nuances: All are “cobalt,” but tone varies by batch and glasshouse—from near-black navy to bright sapphire. Very light or unusual shades are less common and can draw interest, provided they’re not sun-affected or chemically altered.
• Embossing types:
  • Embossed base only: Very common.
  • Side embossing: Less common and of added interest.
  • No embossing: More dependent on intact labels for identification.
• Caps and packaging:
  • Original printed metal caps add value—especially with crisp graphics and minimal rust.
  • Complete examples with intact box and inserts (directions, price stickers) can be worth multiples of a bare jar.
• Condition drivers:
  • Glass: Chips, cracks, and heavy scuffs reduce desirability. “Sick” glass (interior haze) and iridescence from burial are common on dug examples.
  • Lids: Dents, rust, and lost lithography matter. Some collectors display jars sans lid; others prize the match.
  • Labels: Even partial labels with legible text can significantly improve value.
• Rarities:
  • Early, pre-1920s salve containers and transitional label variants are harder to find.
  • Non-standard sizes, oddball molds, or regional packaging runs can be sleepers.
  • True color departures (beyond normal cobalt variance) should be scrutinized carefully to rule out glass alteration.
• Market realities:
  • Common mid-century cobalt VapoRub jars trade modestly—often in the $5–20 range depending on condition and size.
  • Excellent, complete, and early examples (e.g., with pristine labeled box) can reach $25–60+, with standout rarities higher. Local demand and presentation matter.

Authentication: Avoiding Mix-Ups With Other Blue Jars

Cobalt toiletries jars are a crowded field. Here’s how to separate VapoRub from the look-alikes:

• Noxzema vs. Vicks: Noxzema’s cobalt jars are typically larger-shouldered with distinct base embossing; many read “NOXZEMA” or show company marks and different mold traits. Vicks VapoRub jars are generally shorter and may read “VICKS” on the base.
• Vicks Nose Drops: True “bottles,” usually narrow-necked with droppers, often in clear or amber glass. These are not VapoRub but are legitimate Vicks items—collectible in their own right.
• VapoSteam and liquid inhalants: Amber or clear bottles with paper labels for humidifiers and vaporizers. Again, not VapoRub, but often mislabeled online.
• Reuses and crafts: Old cobalt jars are frequently repurposed as candles or cream pots with modern lids. Check base embossing and threads; look for adhesive ghosting consistent with original labels rather than contemporary branding.
• Reproductions: Full-on reproductions of VapoRub jars are uncommon; more often you’ll see genuine vintage jars paired with non-original lids. When in doubt, date the glass first, then decide about the cap and label.

Preservation and Display Tips That Don’t Hurt Value

• Cleaning glass:
  • Start with warm water and mild dish soap. Use soft brushes; avoid abrasive pads that leave “whorls.”
  • For interior haze, try a long soak with a mild vinegar solution; tough “sick” glass may not fully clear without professional tumbling.
• Protecting labels:
  • If a paper label survives, keep water away. Dust gently with a soft, dry brush.
  • Avoid direct sunlight, which fades inks and embrittles paper.
• Lids and rust:
  • Do not immerse metal caps. Spot-clean with a barely damp cloth; dry immediately.
  • Severe rust can be lessened with careful mechanical cleaning or a gentle, pH-neutral rust remover applied sparingly—test first and avoid label contact.
• Odor management:
  • Residual menthol/camphor is normal. Air jars out in a dry place. A sealed container with baking soda nearby (not in direct contact) helps neutralize odors over time.
• Storage and display:
  • Keep out of harsh sunlight and wide temperature swings. Cobalt blue is stable, but labels and caps are not.
  • If stacking, place a soft barrier between lid and base to avoid ring scratches.

Quick, Practical Checklist

• Base embossing: Look for “VICKS” or “VICKS VAPORUB.” Note any size marks and glasshouse logos.
• Glasshouse/date codes: Identify marks like Owens-Illinois (O-I), Hazel-Atlas (H over A), Brockway (B). Record adjacent numbers for dating.
• Label text: Note company name (Vick Chemical vs. Richardson-Merrell/Richardson-Vicks), address format (postal zone vs. ZIP), and net contents (ounces only vs. dual units).
• Closure type: Printed metal cap (older), lithographed graphics, or plastic cap (later). Check for “Reg. U.S. Pat. Off.” verbiage on mid-century pieces.
• Form and color: Squat, wide mouth, cobalt blue. Compare shade and shoulder profile to known VapoRub silhouettes.
• Condition: Inspect for chips, cracks, haze, rust, label legibility, and box presence.
• Cross-check: Corroborate at least two independent clues (e.g., glasshouse date code plus postal-zone label) before assigning a date range.

FAQ

Q: Did Vicks VapoRub ever come in colors other than cobalt blue? A: Cobalt blue is by far the standard for ointment jars. Minor shade variations occur by batch and maker. Clear or amber Vicks containers typically belong to other products (Nose Drops, VapoSteam), not VapoRub.

Q: How old are jars with metal screw caps? A: Metal screw caps were used through much of the 20th century. If the jar also has an Owens-Illinois mark with a single-digit year code or the label shows a postal zone (e.g., “New York 17, N.Y.”), you’re likely in the 1930s–1950s range. Plastic caps generally point to later decades.

Q: What’s the quickest way to tell a VapoRub jar from a Noxzema jar? A: Check the base. Many Noxzema jars are clearly embossed with the brand name or distinctive company marks. Vicks jars often read “VICKS” or “VICKS VAPORUB,” and the jar is shorter and less bulbous at the shoulder.

Q: Are there known reproductions of VapoRub jars? A: Full reproductions are uncommon. More often, genuine vintage jars appear with replacement lids or modern labels. Verify the glass first using embossing and maker’s marks; treat unmatched caps as replacements.

Q: What are these jars worth? A: Common mid-century cobalt VapoRub jars typically sell in the $5–20 range depending on size and condition. Examples with clean, original caps and intact labels bring more. Boxed, early, or unusual variants can command higher prices, but values vary by region and presentation.

Whether you’re cataloging a medicine-cabinet relic or hunting cobalt gems at a flea market, reading the base, the cap, and the label together will quickly separate true VapoRub history from look-alikes. With the right clues, even a tiny blue jar can tell a big story.