Unlock The Secrets A Collectors Guide To Identification Of Antique Doll Markings

Antique doll markings are the fingerprints of the doll world. With a careful eye and a good system, you can decode the who, what, and when of a doll’s origin—often down to the workshop and decade. This guide brings together the practical know‑how collectors and appraisers use to locate, read, and interpret marks on bisque, composition, china, and other early dolls.

Why Doll Markings Matter (And What They Are)

On antique dolls, markings serve as identifiers applied by the head maker, the body maker, or both. They may be incised into bisque or china before firing, stamped onto composition or cloth bodies, or painted under glaze.

Common types of marks:

• Maker’s name or initials: Identifies the manufacturer or atelier.
• Mold number: Identifies the head design; reused across many dolls.
• Size number: Correlates to wig/head circumference or overall size, not to age.
• Country of origin: Often required by law; helps date.
• Patent/registration: Codes such as DEP, Bté S.G.D.G., DRGM, Ges. Gesch.; help confirm region and era.
• Logos/symbols: Sunbursts, stars, shields, monograms.

Key truth: Head and body makers often differed. A “marriage” (non-original pairing) is common, so read both parts.

Where To Find Markings On Antique Dolls

Look methodically, with a bright angled light and a loupe:

• Back of head/neck rim: Primary location for incised bisque marks.
• Shoulder plate (for shoulder head dolls): Incised or stamped.
• Torso (upper back or chest): Ink or impressed body stamps on composition or kid leather.
• Feet/soles: Size or maker stamps on composition or wood.
• Inside joints/hip plates: Secondary impressed numbers.
• Cloth dolls: Woven labels, ink stamps, or sewn-on tags at hip, torso, or foot.

Tips:

• Wigs and pate often obscure head marks. Loosen ties and gently lift; do not yank. For glued wigs on bisque, soften with low, dry warmth and patience, never solvents.
• Use a soft artist’s brush to dust crevices; chalk or talc lightly rubbed and wiped can reveal faint incisions.
• Photograph marks in raking light and again straight on for your records.

Decoding The Language Of Marks: Letters, Numbers, Symbols

Understanding common codes:

• Mold vs. size: Mold numbers are typically two to three digits (e.g., 390), while size numbers are often single digits or fractions (e.g., 8 or 8/0) near the rim. Size numbers repeat across many dolls.
• Country-of-origin laws:
  • 1891+: Imports to the U.S. required a country name (e.g., Germany, France, Nippon).
  • 1914+: “Made in …” phrasing became standard (e.g., Made in Germany).
  • 1921+: “Nippon” generally changed to “Japan.”
  • 1947–1952: “Occupied Japan.”
• Patent/registration marks:
  • DEP (Déposé): French registration mark, widely used on French heads (and sometimes on German heads for the French market).
  • Bté S.G.D.G.: French patent protection; literally “without government guarantee,” appears on late 19th–early 20th century French mechanisms/heads.
  • DRGM: Deutsches Reichsgebrauchsmuster (German utility model), c. 1891–1945, seen on mechanisms or sometimes bodies.
  • Ges. Gesch. or Gesetzlich Geschützt: German “legally protected.”

Reading sequence:

1. Transcribe exactly, line by line, including punctuation, symbols, and font style.
2. Separate head and body marks in your notes.
3. Distinguish incised (in the biscuit) from stamped/inked marks (on bodies).
4. Align findings with material and construction (china, bisque, composition, celluloid, hard plastic) to confirm plausibility.

Signature Makers And Typical Markings

The following cues help narrow identification. Exact variants exist; rely on the exact combination of mark, material, and construction.

German makers (late 19th to early 20th century):

• Armand Marseille (A.M.):
  • Common: A M / Germany / 390 (socket head child), with size number (e.g., A 8 M) or “Florodora.”
  • 370 is a closely related design typically for shoulder-head configuration.
• Simon & Halbig (S & H or SIMON & HALBIG):
  • Often co-marked with other firms (e.g., Heinrich Handwerck, Kammer & Reinhardt) since S&H produced heads.
  • Well-known molds include 1079, 1249 (character type), 939.
• J.D. Kestner (J.D.K or JDK, often “Made in Germany”):
  • Known for high-quality bisque; molds include 143, 171, 214.
  • Bodies may carry Kestner stamps; heads sometimes have impressed size numbers under the wig rim.
• Kammer & Reinhardt (K R, sometimes K&R):
  • Frequently co-marked with Simon & Halbig: K R / Simon & Halbig / mold number (e.g., 101, 126).
• Heinrich Handwerck:
  • Marked HEINR. HANDWERCK / GERMANY with S&H on head; composition bodies often stamped Handwerck.
• Gebrüder Heubach:
  • Impressed rising sun or sunburst over GH; noted for character babies and expressive faces.
• Bahr & Proschild (B & P):
  • B & P with mold numbers (e.g., 224), typically on child heads.
• Heubach-Köppelsdorf:
  • Marks such as Heubach Köppelsdorf / Germany / mold number (e.g., 250.5).

French makers (late 19th to early 20th century):

• Jumeau:
  • TÊTE JUMEAU / DÉPOSÉ with size number on head; bodies often stamped in blue “Jumeau Medaille d’Or Paris” or similar.
  • Red or blue stamps and an incised size at the crown are common.
• Bru:
  • BRU Jne or BÉBÉ BRU / DÉPOSÉ; characteristic finely modeled bisque and early French bodies.
• Steiner:
  • Marks include STEINER and French patent phrases (Bté S.G.D.G.), sometimes with a letter/number series.
• SFBJ (Société Française de Fabrication de Bébés et Jouets):
  • S.F.B.J. / mold number / PARIS (e.g., 60 PARIS, 301, 236). Formed c. 1899–1900 to consolidate several French firms, including Jumeau.

American and others (early to mid‑20th century):

• Schoenhut (USA):
  • SCHOENHUT / PATENTED on carved wooden heads/bodies; known for sturdy jointing.
• Effanbee (F & B):
  • F&B or EFFANBEE on composition; better for 1920s–40s dolls.
• Ideal:
  • IDEAL with patent numbers or “U.S.A.” on composition or early hard plastic; post-1910s.
• Arranbee (R & B), American Character (AM CHAR/AC), Madame Alexander—all more relevant for composition/hard plastic eras rather than bisque.
• Lenci (Italy):
  • Script “Lenci” stamp and circular Torino marks on felt dolls (1920s onward).
• Japanese exports:
  • Nippon (to 1921), Japan (post‑1921), and Occupied Japan (c. 1947–1952); celluloid and bisque novelty dolls are common.

Material clues that support or contradict marks:

• China head dolls (glazed porcelain): Peak c. 1850–1890; often unmarked or with small shoulder plate numbers.
• Parian (unglazed porcelain): c. 1860s–1880s; usually unmarked.
• Bisque socket and shoulder heads: c. 1870s–1930s; most German/French markings are here.
• Composition: c. 1910s–1940s; stamped or decal body marks are typical.
• Celluloid: c. 1900s–1930s; very light, often “Made in Germany/Japan,” fragile.
• Hard plastic: post‑1947; crisp molded maker names increase.

Dating By Laws, Labels, And Construction

Use overlapping evidence:

• Country names:
  • “Germany” without “Made in” suggests c. 1891–1914.
  • “Made in Germany” typically 1914–1945 (also appears later on reissues).
  • “Nippon” 1891–1921; “Japan” after 1921; “Occupied Japan” 1947–1952.
• Registration marks:
  • DEP and Bté S.G.D.G. point to French origin, largely 1880s–1900s (also seen slightly later).
  • DRGM and Ges. Gesch. place a feature in Imperial/Weimar/Nazi-era Germany.
• Body technology:
  • Kid leather bodies with gussets: 1870s–1890s.
  • Ball-jointed composition bodies: 1890s–1930s.
  • Early sleep-eye mechanisms: 1890s onward; if marked DRGM, early 20th century German.
• Eyes and wigs:
  • Paperweight glass eyes and mohair/silk wigs on high-grade French/German dolls c. 1880s–1900s.
  • Tin sleep eyes and human hair wigs often on German production c. 1900–1920.

Always reconcile date indicators. A bisque head marked “Made in Germany” on a body stamped “Jumeau” is a red flag unless there is a sound provenance explaining replacement.

Avoiding Pitfalls: Misreads, Marriages, And Reproductions

Common pitfalls and how to avoid them:

• Misreading numbers:
  • 390 vs. 370 (Armand Marseille): 390 is a socket head; 370 is typically a shoulder head variant. Confirm by neck construction.
  • Size vs. mold: A lone “8” near the crown is usually size, not a mold.
• Composite marks:
  • “K R / Simon & Halbig” indicates a head made by S&H for Kammer & Reinhardt—authentic and common. Don’t assume two names mean a fake.
• Doll marriages:
  • German head on French body or vice versa is not original. Check neck fit, shoulder plate, and finish continuity.
• Later stamps:
  • Ink body stamps are easy to fake; rely more on incised bisque marks and overall construction.
• Reproductions:
  • 1970s–present hobby reproductions often carry original mold numbers (e.g., 390) plus a modern artist’s initials or date, sometimes a copyright symbol. Bisque surface may appear very uniform with crisp unaged edges. Look for modern kiln bite, bright fresh paint, and new cork pates.
• Over-cleaning:
  • Harsh cleaning can remove ink stamps and patina that support authenticity.

When in doubt, weigh all evidence: marks, materials, construction, and stylistic details.

Documenting, Caring For, And Presenting Your Findings

For appraisals and collection records:

• Measure height, head circumference, and pupil size if notable.
• Record every mark precisely. Sketch placement if helpful.
• Photograph the face, mark close-ups, body joints, and any labels.
• Note restorations: hairline cracks, repaint, replaced hands, re-strung elastics.
• Contextualize: Explain how the marks, materials, and laws align to yield a date range and maker.

Care guidelines while assessing:

• Support heads and loosen stringing tension before removing them.
• Do not pry set eyes; consult a doll specialist if inspection requires eye removal.
• Keep wigs, pates, and original clothing components together in labeled bags during examination.

Quick Field Checklist

• Tools: loupe (10x), angled LED flashlight, soft brush, cotton swabs, notebook, phone camera.
• Locate marks: back of head/neck, shoulder plate, torso, feet; check both head and body.
• Transcribe exactly: line breaks, symbols (DEP, DRGM), and numbers (mold vs size).
• Correlate: material, construction, and country-of-origin wording with the mark.
• Cross-check plausibility: name+region+era should agree (e.g., SFBJ with “Paris,” A.M. with “Germany”).
• Watch for marriages: mismatched finish at neck; ill-fitting sockets; mixed country marks.
• Note condition: chips at rim, hairlines, repaints, eye resets, replaced parts.
• Photograph: wide shots and raking-light close-ups of marks.
• Conclude: propose maker, mold, date range, and confidence level.

FAQ

Q: What’s the fastest way to tell mold numbers from size numbers? A: Location and context. Mold numbers on bisque heads are usually grouped with the maker name or initials and are two to three digits (e.g., 390). Size numbers tend to be single digits or fractions near the crown or rim and can be repeated elsewhere on the body.

Q: My doll’s head says “K R / Simon & Halbig.” Is it a fake because it has two names? A: No. Simon & Halbig supplied heads to many firms. Co-marks like “K R / Simon & Halbig” or “Heinr. Handwerck / Simon & Halbig” are normal and expected on authentic dolls.

Q: Does “DEP” mean a Jumeau every time? A: Not necessarily. DEP (Déposé) is a French registration mark used widely, including on German-made heads destined for the French market. You need the full context (other markings, body, and construction) to assign a maker like Jumeau.

Q: How can I date a “Made in Germany” mark? A: Generally 1914 or later for the phrasing “Made in.” If it reads simply “Germany,” it likely dates 1891–1914. Use additional clues (patent marks, body type, eye mechanisms) to refine the range.

Q: Are reproduction bisque dolls always marked as reproductions? A: Many are, often with an artist’s initials, a date, or a copyright symbol, but not all. Evaluate bisque texture, paint quality, aging, and construction alongside the marks to be sure.

With a careful look and a disciplined process, antique doll markings unlock maker, mold, and date—turning a mystery doll into a documented piece of history.