Unlock The Secrets Of Old Stamp Values In The Us A Collectors Guide To Hidden Treasures

Learn how to evaluate old U.S. stamp values: key issues, grading, errors, tools, and appraisal tips to uncover hidden treasures in your collection.

Unlock The Secrets Of Old Stamp Values In The Us A Collectors Guide To Hidden Treasures

Unlock The Secrets Of Old Stamp Values In The Us A Collectors Guide To Hidden Treasures

Old U.S. stamps can hide extraordinary value—in single items tucked in an album, on an envelope (a “cover”) in a desk, or in a dealer’s unsorted box. Whether you collect or appraise antiques and art, understanding how to identify value in classic American philately will help you separate common from exceptional, and avoid the pitfalls that trip up even experienced eyes.

This guide focuses on what drives value, which issues and varieties deserve a second look, how to authenticate and grade, and how to preserve and present stamps for maximum return.

What Really Drives Value In Old U.S. Stamps

  • Scarcity and demand: Value is a function of how many survive and who wants them. Rarities with strong collector followings—classic issues, airmails, revenues, certain errors—command sustained premiums.
  • Condition: Two stamps with identical catalog numbers can differ by a factor of 10–100 in price due to centering, gum condition, color, and faults. For used stamps, cancellations matter too.
  • Correct identification: Many U.S. designs were printed across years with subtle changes—paper, watermark, perforation, grill, or color shade. Misidentification is common and costly.
  • Provenance and certification: High-value stamps and covers with expertization certificates and known pedigrees trade more readily and at higher levels.

Understanding these fundamentals helps you quickly triage a collection and allocate time where value likely lives.

Key U.S. Issues And Hidden Treasures To Watch

You don’t need to memorize every catalog number. Instead, learn the anchor periods and “families” that frequently yield significant finds.

  • 1847 First Issues (5¢ Franklin, 10¢ Washington): The first U.S. stamps are desirable used and on cover. Sound examples with four margins and clear cancels are worth far more than average copies.
  • 1851–57 Imperforates and Early Perforates: Look closely at 1¢ Franklins (different “types”), 5¢ 1856 red brown, and well-margined imperfs. Varieties and plating can add considerable value.
  • 1867–71 Grilled Issues: Grills are embossed patterns impressed into paper to deter reuse. The “Z-Grill” is legendary (only a few examples of certain denominations exist), but even more common grill types can be valuable. Be alert for faked grills.
  • 1869 Pictorials: America’s first bicolors include some of the most coveted invert errors (inverted centers). Even normal high values or choice examples with vibrant color are strong.
  • Bank Note Era (1870s–1880s): National, Continental, and American Bank Note printings can differ by secret marks, paper, and shade. Specialists pay premiums for the scarcer printings and well-centered examples.
  • Columbian Exposition (1893): The 16-value commemorative set up to $5 is iconic. High values in original gum (especially never hinged) are significant.
  • Trans-Mississippi (1898): The $1 “Western Cattle in Storm” and $2 “Cowboy” are highlight pieces; top-grade examples are contested at auction.
  • Pan-American (1901): Notable for three famous invert errors. Normal well-centered examples on fresh paper are also collected intensely.
  • Washington-Franklin Series (1908–1922): A maze of watermarks (double-line vs. single-line), perforations, coils, and shades. This is where tools pay off. Scarce coil pairs, line pairs, and private affixing-machine perforations (e.g., Schermack) can be sleepers.
  • Airmails (1918 onward): The 24¢ airmail “Inverted Jenny” is the poster child of U.S. philately. Other airmail highlights include the 1930 Zeppelin set ($0.65, $1.30, $2.60) which is highly valued in fresh mint condition and on flown covers.
  • Special Delivery, Postage Due, Officials, Parcel Post, Newspapers, Revenues (“Back of the Book”): Many early values are scarce, especially mint with original gum. Newspaper and revenue high values can be valuable even used if sound.
  • Modern-era sleepers:
    • 1979 $1 Candleholder “CIA” Invert: A genuine invert error with a small known population.
    • 1994 Legends of the West recalled sheet: The original recalled pane with postal card is worth significantly more than the common reissue.
    • 2013 $2 “Inverted Jenny” souvenir sheet—upright variety: The intentionally seeded upright version is scarce and valuable.
    • Precancel, perfin, and tagging varieties from mid-century issues can carry specialized premiums.

Don’t forget postal history. A common stamp on a rare route, an early statehood cover, a Civil War patriotic, a fancy cancel (Waterbury types are famous), “socked-on-the-nose” clear town strikes, or an unusual rate can out-value the loose stamp by multiples.

Identification And Authentication: Tools And Techniques

A few simple tools and steps will improve both accuracy and confidence:

  • Scott Specialized Catalogue of United States Stamps & Covers: The primary reference for U.S. collectors and appraisers. It provides catalog numbers, varieties, values in grades, and notes on fakes and reprints.
  • Perforation gauge: Measures the number of perforations per 2 cm. U.S. issues commonly vary (e.g., perf 10, 11, 12). A half-perf difference changes the catalog number and value.
  • Watermark detector and fluid: Many early 20th-century U.S. stamps have watermarks (double-line or single-line “USPS”). Specialized watermark fluid is safe; avoid water and harsh solvents.
  • Magnification (10x) and good lighting: Reveals grills, recuts, plate lines, ink lay, repairs, and tiny faults like creases or thins.
  • UV lamp: Useful for tagging on modern issues and for spotting certain repairs or paper differences.
  • Millimeter ruler or calipers: Helpful for coil stamps and trimmed perforation suspicions.
  • Color guides and reference copies: Aids in separating shades and printings.
  • Knowledge of telltale markers:
    • Inverted Jenny (1918): From a single sheet of 100; positional characteristics and marginal plate number 8493 are well-documented.
    • 19th-century grills: Pattern size and orientation identify grill types.
    • Washington-Franklin coils: Genuine coils have specific coil waste characteristics and line pair features; many fakes are created by trimming perforations from sheet stamps.
    • Overprints (e.g., “Kans.”/“Nebr.” 1929): Frequently forged; font and spacing diagnostics are critical.

When the stakes are high, use expertization. Certificates from recognized bodies (for example, U.S.-focused expert committees) are standard for big-ticket items and for any stamp prone to alteration (grills, coils, inverts, overprints).

Condition, Grading, And The Value Multiplier

Condition is not a detail—it is the driver.

  • Centering and margins: The visual balance of the design within the perforations (or margins for imperfs) anchors grade. Terms range from Average to Fine (F), Very Fine (VF), Extremely Fine (XF), and Superb; numeric grading (up to 100) is also used. A Superb example can be worth multiples of a Fine one.
  • Gum (for mint stamps):
    • NH (never hinged): Original gum, pristine, no hinge mark—often a large premium.
    • OG (original gum), LH (lightly hinged), HR (hinge remnant): Decreasing value as hinge evidence increases.
    • Regummed: Gum added to imitate original—value drops dramatically when detected.
  • Perforations: Reperforation (adding or trimming perfs) is common. Incorrect hole spacing, short or “knife-cut” tips, or mismatched perf counts are red flags.
  • Paper and color: Bright, unfaded color and clean paper are preferred. “Changelings” (chemically altered color) are discounted.
  • Faults: Tears, creases, thins, pinholes, scuffs, toning, or stains substantially reduce value; minor corner creases on used classics may be tolerated more than on mint.
  • Cancellations (for used stamps):
    • Desirability: Light, neat town cancels or “socked-on-the-nose” CDS cancels are preferred on many issues.
    • Specialty value: Fancy cancels (e.g., stars, shields, animals), early machine cancels, railroad postmarks, and carrier or steamship markings can add premiums.
  • Covers: Rates, routes, origins/destinations, auxiliary markings, and historical context often trump the stamp’s standalone value. Condition—no excessive folds through the stamp, minimal toning, intact corners—matters.

For insurance or sale, obtain certificates for items where condition or authenticity materially impacts price.

Appraising, Selling, And Safeguarding Value

  • Triage intelligently: Sort by era first (classics pre-1900, early 20th century, mid-century, modern), then pull out airmails and back-of-the-book. Flag anything with unusual perforations, overprints, pairs/blocks/plate numbers, and covers with nonstandard markings.
  • Compare to market, not just catalog: Catalog values are benchmarks, often for Very Fine and sound examples. Realized auction prices and dealer retail for comparable grades reflect actual market appetite.
  • Documentation and provenance: Keep invoices, expert certificates, and any notes on discovery or prior ownership. This history can tip decisions for buyers and insurers.
  • When selling:
    • Individual lots vs. collection: High-end items often do best as individual auction lots with certificates; more common material may move better in grouped collections.
    • Timing and venue: Specialty auctions and shows with U.S. strength typically yield stronger results for rare items.
  • Storage and care:
    • Use archival, acid-free mounts and stockbooks. Avoid tape, paper clips, and PVC plastics.
    • Maintain stable humidity (around 40–55%) and moderate temperatures. Keep away from direct sunlight.
    • Handle with stamp tongs, not fingers, to avoid oils and bends.
  • Insurance: Schedule valuable items separately with documented photos, descriptions, grades, and certificates.

A Practical Checklist For Evaluating Old U.S. Stamp Values

  • Identify the stamp family:
    • Classic (pre-1900), Washington-Franklin, commemoratives, airmails, revenues, officials, etc.
  • Measure and observe:
    • Perforations with a gauge; check for coils or line pairs.
    • Watermark using proper fluid.
    • Grills on 1867–71 issues under magnification.
  • Assess condition:
    • Centering/grade, color, paper freshness.
    • Gum status (NH/OG/LH) and signs of regumming.
    • Perfs for trimming or reperfing; look for tears, thins, creases.
  • Evaluate cancels and covers:
    • Is the cancel desirable or rare?
    • For covers, confirm rate, route, and any auxiliary markings; consider leaving stamps on cover.
  • Check for varieties and errors:
    • Inverts, missing colors, misperfs, overprints, tagging varieties.
  • Benchmark value:
    • Use a specialized U.S. catalog; note value by grade and condition adjustments.
  • Decide on expertization:
    • Seek certificates for high-value or commonly forged items.
  • Document and protect:
    • Photograph, inventory, and store in archival materials.

Short FAQ

Q: Are all old stamps valuable?
A: No. Age alone doesn’t confer value. Common stamps in average condition may be worth pennies, while scarcer issues in excellent condition or with rare cancels can be worth hundreds or thousands.

Q: How can I tell if a stamp is regummed or reperforated?
A: Under magnification, regummed stamps may show gum pooling in perforation holes or an unnaturally even sheen. Reperforations often have uneven hole spacing, shorter or knife-like perf tips, or mismatch with the known perf gauge for that issue. Compare to authenticated examples and seek certificates when in doubt.

Q: Should I soak stamps off old envelopes to save space?
A: Not if the cover has unusual rates, auxiliary markings, early dates, attractive cancels, or historical interest. Postal history value can exceed the loose stamp’s value. When uncertain, keep it on cover and consult a specialist.

Q: What grading terms matter most to buyers?
A: Centering and gum condition are critical: NH, OG, LH for mint; F, VF, XF, Superb for centering. Fault-free examples with bright color and clean paper command premiums.

Q: Do I need a certificate before selling?
A: For high-value stamps, items prone to forgery (grills, coils, overprints, inverts), or any piece where authenticity is questioned, a recognized expertization certificate increases buyer confidence and often net proceeds.

By focusing on the factors above—correct identification, condition, and context—you’ll be well equipped to unlock the true value of old U.S. stamps and uncover the hidden treasures others miss.