Unlock The Secrets Of Value Discovering The Worth Of Antique Royal Typewriters

Royal typewriters enjoy a special place in the collecting world: rugged, handsome, and mechanically satisfying, they represent the golden age of office and portable writing machines. Yet values can vary widely—from a bargain find at a garage sale to a four-figure auction result. If you’re considering buying, selling, or appraising a Royal, the key is understanding which details move the market and how to evaluate them confidently.

This guide breaks down the most collectible Royal models, the features that drive price, practical ways to authenticate and date a machine, realistic market ranges, and the restoration math that affects what you should pay or accept.

A quick Royal timeline and the models collectors chase

Founded in 1904 in New York, the Royal Typewriter Company launched its first machine, the Royal Standard, in 1906. By the 1910s, Royal had become a force in offices; in the 1920s and 1930s, it competed strongly in the burgeoning portable market. Below are the Royal highlights most often discussed by collectors and appraisers:

• Royal Standard (flatbed), 1906–1910s: Early, distinctive, and appealing to historians of technology. Less common than later office models.
• Royal 10, 1914–late 1920s/early 1930s: The iconic “glass-side” office typewriter. Early examples have a single glass panel per side; later ones have two. The Royal 10’s commanding profile and exposed workings make it a display favorite.
• Royal Portable (Model P), 1926–early 1930s: Royal’s first widely successful portable. Compact, with glossy enamel finish, often black; some variants carry sought-after typefaces.
• Royal Model O, mid-1930s: A refined portable closely related to the P. Collectors prize examples with “Vogue” (a geometric sans) or script typefaces.
• Quiet DeLuxe (QDL), 1939 onward; refreshed postwar into the 1950s: Royal’s premium portable. Smooth action, attractive design, popular with writers. Later 1950s QDLs appear in fashionable colors and two-tone finishes.
• KMM and KMG office desktops, c. 1939–1950s: Heavy-duty workhorses with Royal innovations like Magic Margin. Revered for durability; desirable in fully serviced condition.
• Royal Arrow/Speed King, 1940s–1950s: Mid-line portables; common but good performers.
• Royalite and Empress, late 1950s–1960s: The Royalite is an ultra-portable, slim and stylish; the Empress is a striking, sculptural office machine.

While later Royal electronic or plastic-bodied machines have niche interest, the metal-bodied standards and portables above dominate the collector conversation.

What actually drives value

You’ll see asking prices all over the map. Focus on these value levers to separate wishful thinking from fair market worth:

• Model desirability and era

  • Royal 10 glass-sides and prewar portables (P, O) are perennially collectible.
  • Quiet DeLuxe holds broad appeal; postwar KMM/KMG are respected but less visually “ornate.”
  • Later budget models (some Royalite runs) can be common; condition and color then matter more.

• Condition and completeness

  • Functioning carriage, clean typebars, smooth segment, intact drawband, working escapement, and ringing bell signal a healthy machine.
  • For Royal 10s, intact original glass is a big tick; replaced glass is acceptable but reduces originality.
  • Original cases, keys, brushes, dust covers, paperwork, and feet add value; missing cases can shave price, especially on portables.

• Original finish and decals

  • Crisp “ROYAL” decals, uniform paint or crinkle finish, and unpolished nickel/chrome trim look right and preserve value.
  • Aggressive polishing over decals or repaints usually diminish value unless done to a professional standard.

• Scarcity features and options

  • Typeface matters: “Vogue,” script/cursive, italic, and other nonstandard faces can add a significant premium.
  • Early Royal 10 “single glass” side panels are scarcer than the later “double glass” style.
  • Unusual body colors (particularly 1950s QDLs and some Royalites) are more sought-after than plain black or gray.

• Provenance and association

  • Documented ownership by a notable writer, business, or institution can measurably increase value.

• Market readiness

  • Freshly serviced machines from known technicians command more than dusty attic finds because they save the buyer time and risk.

Identify, date, and authenticate a Royal

Correctly identifying the model and production period is step one in valuation. Use a combination of serials, features, and visual cues:

• Serial number location

  • On desktop Royals (Royal 10, KMM/KMG), look on the right side of the frame, often visible by moving the carriage fully left. Sometimes it’s on a small plate or stamped into the casting.
  • On portables (P, O, Quiet DeLuxe), check under the ribbon cover or beneath/behind the carriage on the right side. Some have the serial stamped on the bed under the platen.
  • Record exactly, including suffixes; letter prefixes often denote model variations.

• Feature cues to era

  • Royal 10: early examples have one glass window per side; later versions feature two stacked panes per side. Keytops and logo styles also shift over time.
  • Finish: high-gloss enamel is common prewar; textured “crinkle” paint appears in the mid/late 1930s and into the 1940s–50s.
  • Magic Margin appears on late-1930s/1940s office models (KMM/KMG).

• Typeface verification

  • Load a ribbon, type the alphabet and numerals. Compare to known samples: Vogue is a geometric sans with circular “O” and simple strokes; script has joined characters; italic leans right.
  • On some Royals, type slug faces are coded on the slug or recorded on the original sales tag; documentation helps.

• Authentic glass on Royal 10s

  • Original panes have period-appropriate thickness and beveling; replacements are usually flat-edged modern glass or acrylic. Replacement glass is fine for display but note it in appraisal.

• Case and accessory check

  • For portables, confirm the case fits properly, latches, and has the original handle; mismatched cases are common and reduce value.

If you’re unsure on an exact year, bracket by major style changes (single vs double glass on a Royal 10; prewar vs postwar QDL trim; crinkle vs smooth paint). Serial charts exist for precise dating; note the serial in your report and the sourced year range.

What Royals sell for: realistic price ranges

Market prices vary by region, condition, and season. The ranges below reflect typical retail sales in North America for fully described machines as of recent years. Exceptional examples, rare typefaces, and documented provenance can exceed these figures.

• Royal 10 (glass-side)

  • As-found, complete, unserviced: $125–$275
  • Clean, working, serviced; original glass: $300–$650
  • Early “single-glass” sides, excellent originality: $500–$900+

• Royal Portable Model P / Model O (late 1920s–1930s)

  • Standard typeface, as-found: $75–$175
  • Clean, working, serviced: $200–$400
  • Rare typefaces (Vogue, script) or exceptional cosmetics: $500–$1,200+

• Quiet DeLuxe (prewar and 1940s)

  • As-found: $75–$175
  • Serviced, ready to type: $175–$350
  • Scarce colors or outstanding provenance: $350–$600+

• Quiet DeLuxe (1950s color variants)

  • As-found: $100–$200
  • Serviced, excellent cosmetics: $225–$450

• KMM/KMG office standards

  • As-found: $75–$175
  • Serviced, smooth action: $175–$350

• Royal Arrow/Speed King (1940s–50s portables)

  • As-found: $60–$150
  • Serviced: $150–$300

• Royalite and other ultra-portables (late 1950s–60s)

  • As-found: $50–$120
  • Serviced, desirable color: $125–$250

Remember: a vague listing with poor photos often sells low; the same machine, properly serviced with clear photos and a typing sample, can bring double.

Restoration math: when service pays and when originality wins

A serviceable Royal is worth more than a stiff one you can’t type on. But every dollar you invest should be measured against the model’s ceiling value.

Typical costs you may encounter:

• Basic cleaning and regulation: $100–$200
• New platen recovering: $90–$160 (size-dependent)
• Feed roller recovering: $40–$80
• New feet, tension bands, minor parts: $20–$60
• Full professional overhaul (clean, degrease, adjust, minor parts): $200–$400+

For a Royal 10 or a desirable portable (P, O, QDL with rare typeface), a full overhaul often makes sense. For common models or cosmetically rough examples with a low ceiling, basic cleaning to produce a legible, even print may be more economical.

Originality remains king for high-end pieces:

• Retain original decals and finish wherever possible.
• For Royal 10 glass, note if panes are replacements; don’t age them artificially.
• Avoid repainting unless the machine is already compromised; even then, disclose clearly.

Buying and selling smarter: photos, packing, and pitfalls

• Photos that sell (and appraise)

  • Front, back, both sides, top with ribbon cover open, keytops close-up, segment and typebars, undercarriage, serial number, platen surface, and a typed sample.
  • For Royal 10s, close-ups of both side glass panels and decal condition.

• Common mechanical issues to check

  • Hardened platen and rollers causing paper slippage.
  • Sticky typebars and a sluggish segment from old oil.
  • Weak mainspring leading to slow carriage return.
  • Uneven escapement (carriage advances erratically).
  • Misaligned or worn type slugs producing uneven print.

• Safe shipping tips

  • Lock the carriage; if no lock, immobilize with soft ties. Insert padding between typebars and platen.
  • Remove or secure ribbon spools to prevent ink transfer.
  • For Royal 10s, protect glass with rigid paneling and bubble wrap; double-box with 2–3 inches of cushioning.
  • Ship portables inside their cases only after padding the interior; then double-box.

• Cleaning cautions

  • Avoid abrasive polishes on decals and plated parts.
  • Use gentle solvents (like mineral spirits) sparingly to dissolve old grease; keep away from painted logos.
  • Light machine oil on pivot points only after degreasing; never flood a segment with oil.

• Negotiation perspective

  • Document service receipts and typed samples; they justify asking prices.
  • As a buyer, factor service costs into your maximum bid; as a seller, either do the service or price accordingly.

Practical appraisal checklist

• Identify the exact model (Royal 10, P, O, Quiet DeLuxe, KMM/KMG, etc.).
• Record the full serial number and any prefixes/suffixes.
• Note finish type (gloss enamel vs crinkle) and color.
• Inspect decals and branding for originality and wear.
• For Royal 10s: confirm side glass is present and uncracked; note if replaced.
• Test core functions: carriage advance, bell, backspace, tab, shift, ribbon reverse.
• Examine platen and rollers for hardness, glazing, or cracks.
• Check typebars for straight alignment and free return.
• Type a sample; record typeface (pica/elite, Vogue, script, italic) and print quality.
• Confirm completeness: correct case, keys, brushes, paperwork, feet intact.
• Assess prior restoration or repainting; look for over-polished trim.
• Estimate service needs and costs; adjust valuation accordingly.

FAQ

Q: Are Royal typewriters rare? A: Many models are common, but certain variants are scarce or desirable. Early Royal Standards, Royal 10s with single glass sides, portables with Vogue or script typefaces, and pristine prewar examples are notably sought after.

Q: How can I tell if my Royal has the “Vogue” typeface? A: Type the alphabet and numerals. Vogue is a geometric sans serif: round “O,” simple, uniform strokes, and minimal ornament. Compare to a standard sample; Vogue stands out immediately next to pica or elite serif faces.

Q: Does a replaced glass panel on a Royal 10 hurt value? A: Yes, somewhat. Period-correct replacement glass preserves display appeal and function, but original panes with no cracks bring the strongest prices. Always disclose replacements.

Q: What ribbon should I use, and does it affect value? A: Use a fresh, correctly sized universal ribbon (black or black/red) on metal or plastic spools. A new ribbon won’t change collectible value much, but it showcases the machine’s condition with a clean typing sample and helps it sell.

Q: Should I repaint my worn Royal? A: Generally, no. Original finishes—even with honest wear—are preferred by collectors. Repaint only if the machine is otherwise compromised, and disclose the refinish; expect values to align more with “custom” than “original.”

By knowing how to identify models and features, evaluating condition with a technician’s eye, and matching service costs to a model’s ceiling, you can price or purchase a Royal with confidence. Whether it’s the architectural beauty of a glass-side Royal 10 or the writerly charm of a Quiet DeLuxe, the right machine—properly presented—still commands attention and strong results.