Unlock The Secrets Of Vintage Treasures The Ultimate Guide To Determining Your Old Clorox Glass Bottle Value

Few utilitarian objects embody early 20th‑century household history like amber Clorox bleach bottles. Produced in massive numbers yet surprisingly rich in variation, these bottles offer a rewarding niche for collectors and resellers alike. Whether you found one in a basement, inherited a box of jugs, or are curating a shelf of industrial classics, this guide will help you identify, date, grade, and value your old Clorox glass bottles with confidence.

What Makes Old Clorox Bottles Collectible

• Everyday iconography: Clorox is a household name, and its early glass packaging reflects evolving American design—from cork-stoppered cylinders to handled gallon jugs and screw-cap bottles.
• Amber glass with purpose: The trademark brownish amber protected bleach from light. Most examples are amber; off-colors can indicate scarce runs or errors and command premiums.
• Embossing and labels: Raised lettering (“CLOROX,” capacities, maker’s marks) and surviving paper labels provide dating clues and affect value significantly.
• Industrial craft: Machine-made glass tells a story of major manufacturers like Owens-Illinois and Hazel-Atlas, whose base marks and date codes unlock production details.
• Display appeal: Even common examples have strong shelf presence, especially handled gallons and small “sample” sizes.

How To Identify Your Bottle: Shape, Size, Embossing, and Closures

Start with the basics: shape, capacity, glass characteristics, and what’s printed or embossed on the bottle and closure.

• Shapes:

  • Cylindrical utility bottles: Straight sides, short shoulders. Common in pints and quarts.
  • Handled gallon jugs: Loop or finger ring at the shoulder/neck, thick glass, sturdy foot—popular with collectors.
  • Squat “sample” or small household sizes: Short, wider profiles; harder to find than standard quarts.

• Sizes you’ll encounter:

  • Pint (~16 oz), Quart (~32 oz), Half-gallon (~64 oz), and Gallon (128 oz). Smaller sample/“trial” sizes exist and can be scarce.
  • Capacities are often embossed on the shoulder or base.

• Glass color and texture:

  • Standard is amber/brown. Lighter honey amber or very dark near-black amber occurs. Seldom-seen hues (light green, clear, olive) can be production anomalies or non-standard runs and are more valuable.
  • Look for clarity vs. “sick” glass (iridescent or cloudy interior etching from alkaline contents).

• Embossing and labels:

  • “CLOROX” is frequently embossed on the shoulder or body, sometimes with “REG. U.S. PAT. OFF.” or capacity.
  • Some early examples include company/location text; many later bottles rely on paper labels. Original labels, especially clean ones, uplift value considerably.

• Closures:

  • Earliest household bottles used corks.
  • 1930s–1940s: Bakelite or hard plastic screw caps; some metal caps also used.
  • 1950s–early 1960s: Metal screw caps dominate. Matching original caps add appeal and value.

Dating Guide: Maker’s Marks, Logos, and Production Eras

Most Clorox bottles are machine-made and carry maker’s marks and codes on the base. Learning these marks will bracket your bottle in a specific decade.

• Owens-Illinois Glass Company (very common producer)

  • Trademark c. 1929–1954: The O-I logo inside a diamond. If you see the “I in O within a diamond,” you’re likely in this era.
  • Trademark c. 1954 onward: The “I in an O” without the diamond. On bleach bottles, this often points to late 1950s–early 1960s production.
  • Reading codes: To the left of the logo is typically a plant code; to the right a two- or one-digit year code (last digits of the year). A mold number is often below. Combine logo style with the year digit to set a range. Example: diamond O-I with “9” to the right suggests 1939 or 1949—use closure type, label styling, and overall design to decide which fits.
  • Plant codes correspond to specific factories; regional scarcity can subtly affect value, but condition and form usually matter more.

• Other glassmakers you may encounter

  • Hazel-Atlas (H over A): Active 1920s–1960s and known for household ware; some bleach bottles bear this mark.
  • Additional marks from period producers may appear. Focus on consistent machine seams, tooling marks, and closure types to avoid confusing later decorative bottles with period originals.

• Design-era cues

  • 1910s–1920s: Heavier, utilitarian amber cylinders; cork closures; bold embossing. Surviving examples with intact labels are scarce.
  • 1930s–1940s: Prolific years. Embossed CLOROX, clear capacity marks, handled gallon jugs, Bakelite caps, and sometimes Art Deco label graphics.
  • 1950s–early 1960s: Sleeker shoulders and standardized screw caps; more reliance on paper labels. Clorox transitions to plastic later in the 1960s, ending the glass era.

• Embossing variations to note

  • Shoulder vs. body embossing of “CLOROX.”
  • Capacity embossed near base or on heel.
  • “REG. U.S. PAT. OFF.” beneath logo on some variants.
  • Unique molds for handled gallons vs. non-handled forms.

Documenting these details with clear photos of base, shoulder, and closure will allow most experienced collectors to date your piece to a 5–10 year window.

Condition And Original Packaging: What Adds Or Hurts Value

• Glass integrity

  • No chips, cracks, bruises, or dings: Top-tier value.
  • Fleabites on lip or base: Minor deductions.
  • “Sick” glass (interior etching/cloudiness): Common in bleach bottles and can’t always be fixed—expect significant value impact.

• Surface quality

  • Original sheen, minimal scratches, and no heavy stain rings outperform cleaned-but-dull examples.
  • Base wear (honest shelf wear) is normal; deep scuffs and case wear lower desirability.

• Labels

  • Original paper labels, intact and legible, dramatically increase value—often by 50–200% depending on condition.
  • Partial labels still help date and authenticate.

• Closures and accessories

  • Original caps (Bakelite, metal) in clean condition add a premium.
  • Advertising boxes, wooden crates, and point-of-sale materials multiply value as display ensembles.

• Provenance

  • Documentation of origin (old store stock, family hardware store, regional distribution) can aid pricing and buyer confidence.

Real-World Price Ranges And Value Drivers

Values vary by region and venue, but the following ranges reflect typical retail/collector markets for authentic bottles in good condition:

• Common quart or pint amber bottles (no label, average embossing): $10–$25
• Half-gallon bottles: $15–$40
• Handled gallon jugs (the display favorite): $20–$60 for standard examples; $75–$150 for clean, strong embossing or with original cap
• Bottles with clean, mostly intact paper labels: Add $30–$100+ depending on size and graphics
• Scarcer sizes (true samples, odd capacities) or unusual molds: $50–$150+
• Off-color glass (light green, clear, olive) or pronounced glass-blowing anomalies in the Clorox form: $150–$300+, sometimes higher in bidding environments
• Early cork-stoppered examples with strong embossing or early company refs: $100–$250+, condition-dependent
• Matched sets (multiple sizes with labels/caps): Price higher per bottle due to display impact

Key drivers:

• Rarity of mold/variant (including unusual embossing or capacities)
• Condition of glass and label
• Presence and state of original closure
• Era (pre-WWII handled gallons and 1930s labeled quarts are especially popular)
• Visual appeal on a shelf (height, shoulder form, color uniformity)

Note: Wholesale and quick-sale prices (flea markets, bulk lots) can be 30–50% lower. Exceptional provenance or mint “new old stock” with boxes can exceed these ranges.

Cleaning, Care, And Display Without Hurting Value

You can improve presentation without accidentally lowering value:

• Safe cleaning

  • Start with a long soak in warm distilled water with a dash of mild dish soap.
  • For mineral haze, try white vinegar or a brief citric acid soak. Rinse thoroughly.
  • Avoid abrasives, steel wool, and harsh alkaline cleaners that can dull the surface.
  • If interior etching (“sick” glass) remains, accept it; aggressive polishing or tumbling can remove original surface and reduce collector interest.

• Label and cap preservation

  • Never submerge paper labels. Clean around them with a barely damp cloth.
  • Lightly dust caps; avoid soaking metal closures to prevent rust bloom.
  • Store caps separately if corrosion could transfer to glass, but keep them with the bottle for display or resale.

• Storage and display

  • Keep out of direct sun; UV can lighten amber and fade labels.
  • Use inert foam or felt pads to prevent shelf scuffing.
  • Maintain stable temperature and low humidity for labeled pieces.
  • For handled gallons, ensure supports are sturdy; they’re heavy and can tip if jostled.

• Safety

  • Assume any residue is caustic; wear gloves and rinse carefully.
  • Do not use vintage bleach bottles for food or drink storage.

Quick Evaluation Checklist

• Identify form and size: pint, quart, half-gallon, or handled gallon?
• Note color: standard amber or an unusual hue?
• Photograph base marks: maker’s logo, plant code, year digit(s), mold number.
• Check closure type: cork, Bakelite/plastic screw cap, or metal—original present?
• Assess condition: chips/cracks, interior etching, scratches, label integrity.
• Record embossing details: “CLOROX,” capacity, “REG. U.S. PAT. OFF.,” and placement.
• Compare to ranges: plug features into the price ranges above to set an ask or insurance value.

Common Pitfalls And How To Avoid Them

• Overcleaning: Removing label fragments, scouring the surface, or tumbling a lightly stained bottle can cut value more than the stain itself.
• Misreading date codes: Use the logo style (diamond O‑I vs. non-diamond) plus closure and design features to resolve single-digit year codes.
• Confusing display repros with originals: Some decorative amber bottles exist; originals show appropriate weight, machine seams, and period-consistent bases and caps.
• Ignoring the cap: An original Bakelite or early metal cap can be the difference between $25 and $75 on common sizes.
• Shipping damage: These bottles are heavy. Double-box with padding away from the handle and lip; insure for full value.

FAQ

Q: Are all old Clorox bottles amber? A: Most are amber to protect bleach from light, but off-colors (light green, clear, olive) do turn up and are usually scarcer and more valuable.

Q: How do I read Owens-Illinois date codes? A: Identify the trademark first: diamond O‑I (c. 1929–1954) or O‑I without diamond (c. 1954 onward). The one- or two-digit number to the right is the year’s last digit(s). Use design clues (closure, label style) to decide the decade.

Q: Do small chips ruin the value? A: Minor rim fleabites reduce value slightly; cracks and bruises are bigger problems. Labels and original caps can offset small flaws in common bottles, but mint examples will always bring more.

Q: Should I remove a damaged paper label? A: No. Even partial original labels help date and authenticate the bottle and are usually worth preserving. Clean carefully around them and store away from moisture and sun.

Q: What’s the most valuable Clorox bottle type? A: Scarce variants—early cork-closed examples with bold embossing, unusual colors, clean labeled quarts from the 1930s, and handled gallons with original caps in excellent condition—tend to command the highest prices.

With a careful eye on marks, design, and condition, you can place your old Clorox glass bottle in its proper era and market tier. Document it thoroughly, clean conservatively, and price with confidence using the ranges in this guide. Whether you’re curating a display or planning a sale, these industrial icons are as informative as they are handsome.