Unlock The True Value Of Antiques Tips From A Certified Antique Appraiser

Collectors often ask, “What is this really worth?” The most honest answer is, “It depends—on which market you’re in, what evidence you have, and how the object presents today.” As a certified antique appraiser, my role is to translate your object’s story into value by applying market data, connoisseurship, and clear methodology. Below, I’ll show you how to look at your antiques the way an appraiser does—so you can unlock their true value, avoid expensive missteps, and choose the smartest path to sell, insure, or keep.

Know Which “Value” You Need

Value is not one-size-fits-all. The same antique can have multiple defensible values depending on purpose.

• Fair Market Value (FMV): The price a willing buyer and seller would agree on in an open, competitive market, neither under compulsion and both with reasonable knowledge. Used for estate settlements, charitable donations, and equitable distribution. FMV is usually lower than retail.
• Retail Replacement Value (RRV): The cost to replace an item with one of like kind and quality in the retail marketplace within a reasonable time. Used for insurance. RRV is typically higher because it reflects retail pricing, dealer sourcing, and the cost/time to find a comparable.
• Marketable Cash Value (MCV): The net amount you, as an owner, are likely to realize in a prompt sale considering venue fees and condition. Useful for planning and probate when rapid liquidation is necessary.
• Auction Estimate: A range (e.g., $3,000–$5,000) indicating likely hammer price based on recent sales comparables. Not a guarantee and excludes buyer’s premium and seller’s commission.

Ask yourself: Why do I need the value? The assignment type governs the approach, data sources, and adjustments. In the U.S., seek USPAP-compliant appraisals for legal, tax, or insurance purposes. In the U.K. and elsewhere, look for recognized professional standards in your jurisdiction.

What Really Drives Antique Value

Appraisers weigh multiple variables. A strong result usually rests on five pillars:

• Provenance and Documentation: Ownership history, invoices, auction catalogs, exhibition labels, and letters connect your item to people and places that matter. A Shaker chair linked to a known community, or a painting with gallery labels and a published catalog raisonné entry, can see a step-change in value. Keep any old tags, crate stencils, and receipts—they are evidence.
• Rarity and Demand: Rarity alone is not enough; it must intersect with collector demand. A common form by a scarce maker can outshine a rare but unfashionable form. Tastes evolve: mid-century design surged; “brown furniture” softened then began stabilizing at the high end for best-in-class pieces.
• Quality and Authenticity: Materials, craftsmanship, and originality are paramount. Original finish, original hardware, and undisturbed surfaces typically beat later replacements. For ceramics and glass, body quality, glaze, and clarity matter. For paintings, original canvas and minimal inpainting are preferable.
• Maker, Period, and Place: Signed or well-attributed works from sought-after makers, or objects datable to key periods (e.g., early 18th-century American high-style, documented Arts & Crafts workshops, iconic Art Deco jewellers), command premiums. Regional markets also influence demand: Qing export porcelain may excel in Hong Kong; Scandinavian modern thrives in Nordic and global design hubs.
• Condition and Completeness: Condition is more than “no chips.” It’s structural integrity, extent of restoration, patina, and whether parts are original. A Georgian chest with replaced brasses and refinished surface is worth less than one with original brasses and mellow shellac patina.

Value is always a market equation: evidence plus desirability minus risk.

Authenticate With Evidence, Not Hunches

Authentication is non-destructive, comparative, and documented. Start with the object’s physical clues and correlate them with known references and recent sales.

• Maker’s Marks and Hallmarks:
  • Silver: Look for assay marks, maker’s marks, and date letters. In British silver, the lion passant indicates sterling; a leopard’s head typically marks London; an anchor denotes Birmingham. Beware added or spurious marks; examine strike crispness and wear consistency.
  • Porcelain: Meissen’s crossed swords, Sèvres interlaced Ls, and other factory marks are widely copied. Compare mark form, spacing, and painted hand to vetted examples. Check paste, translucency, and foot-rim wear.
  • Furniture and Clocks: Workshop stamps, cabinetmaker labels, retailer plaques, and serial numbers can be key. Inside drawer sides, under seats, and backboards are common label zones.
• Construction and Materials:
  • Furniture: Hand-cut dovetails are typically asymmetrical and slightly irregular; machine dovetails (post–mid-19th century) are very regular. Pre-circa 1860 boards often show straight hand-saw marks; circular saw marks indicate later production. Screws with off-center slots and hand-wrought threads suggest age; uniform machine screws indicate later work. Examine secondary woods (e.g., poplar in American case furniture).
  • Finishes: Early shellac and waxed surfaces differ from modern polyurethane. Original gilding shows burnished high points and bole layers; bright, uniform “gold paint” is a red flag.
  • Prints and Paintings: True intaglio prints often show plate marks; under magnification, photomechanical reproductions reveal dot patterns. Check watermarks in paper and edition annotations. Paint layers under UV can reveal overpaint; craquelure should be consistent with age and medium.
• Comparative Research: Use recent, verifiable sales of closely comparable items—same maker, form, size, material, date range, and condition. Adjust for differences and account for buyer’s premiums.
• Red Flags for Fakes and Marriages:
  • Aggressively uniform wear on areas that shouldn’t match (undersides as worn as touchpoints).
  • Casting seams not properly chased on “bronze” sculpture; resin masquerading as bronze at suspicious weight.
  • Components from different periods married into one piece (mismatched screw types, wood species that don’t align with period norms).
• Testing: Avoid damaging “acid tests” or scratch tests. When material identification is critical (e.g., silver content, metal alloy, pigment analysis), non-invasive methods such as XRF are best in professional hands.

If you hit uncertainty, stop. An inconclusive but intact object is preferable to a misidentified or damaged one.

Smart Conservation, Not Over-Restoration

Conservation supports stability and preserves evidence. Restoration aims to return appearance. Both can be appropriate—but not all interventions pay back in value.

• Preserve Original Surfaces: Original finish, patina, and “honest” wear often drive value. Stripping and refinishing early furniture, regilding frames, or heavy polishing of silver can erase value-critical surfaces.
• When Restoration Makes Sense:
  • Structural failures that threaten usability (loose chair joints, lifting veneer, split panels).
  • Active deterioration (flaking paint, bronze disease, woodworm). Stabilization is a must.
  • Aesthetic improvement with minimal intervention (reversible inpainting in a damaged corner of a painting).
• When It Doesn’t:
  • Replacing original hardware with shiny new pieces.
  • Over-polishing coins, silver, or brass to “like-new” sheen.
  • Removing inscriptions, labels, or old dealer tags.
• Cost-Benefit Check: A $1,500 conservation project on a $2,500 object may not make economic sense unless you’re preserving for the long term. Request a treatment proposal with photos and reversibility details. Ensure conservators use appropriate, reversible materials.
• Document Everything: Before-and-after photos and conservator reports help future buyers understand what changed and why—often easing concerns and supporting value.

When in doubt, clean lightly with dry methods and stop. Ask a conservator or appraiser before you proceed.

Market Strategy: Where and When to Sell

Choosing the right venue can add more to your net proceeds than any single “fix.”

• Venues and Typical Economics:
  • Auction: Broad exposure and competitive bidding; commission to sellers often 10–25% plus possible photography and insurance fees. Buyers also pay a premium (often 20–26% or more), which influences bidding behavior. Good for unique, high-demand pieces or items aligned with specialized sales (e.g., American folk art, design).
  • Dealers/Galleries: Faster decisions and curated networks. Expect a margin of 30–50% when selling outright; consignment splits vary. Excellent for objects requiring connoisseurship and targeted client lists.
  • Private Treaty: Discreet sales to known collectors or institutions, often at strong prices for best-in-class pieces with sterling provenance.
  • Online Marketplaces: Large audiences and transparency but require professional photography, buyer vetting, shipping logistics, and returns management. Fees vary.
• Timing:
  • Align with sale calendars and thematic auctions. Single-owner collections and well-advertised specialty sales can create a premium context.
  • Consider seasonality: marquee auctions often cluster in spring and fall; regional markets have their own rhythms.
  • Macro trends matter (currency strength, geopolitical news), but the right venue usually outweighs timing noise for quality pieces.
• Reserves and Guarantees:
  • Set realistic reserves; reserves too high suppress bidding. Discuss guarantees or irrevocable bids for top-tier works with auction specialists.
• Logistics:
  • Photograph professionally: neutral background, even light, scale references, and detail shots of condition and marks.
  • Factor shipping, packing, and insurance into your net figures—bulky furniture can erode proceeds.
• Legal and Ethical Constraints:
  • Cultural property, archeological material, and wildlife components (e.g., ivory, tortoiseshell) are heavily regulated. Know local and international laws before marketing or exporting.

Work backward from your net goal. Model your likely proceeds under two or three venues and choose the strategy that best fits your timetable and risk tolerance.

Practical Pre-Appraisal Checklist

Use this concise checklist to speed your appraisal and improve accuracy:

• Define purpose: insurance, sale, donation, estate, or planning.
• Measure precisely (H × W × D in inches/centimeters) and note weight if relevant.
• Take clear photos: full front/back, sides, overhead, underside, and close-ups of marks, joints, labels, and any damage.
• Record all markings: maker’s marks, hallmarks, signatures, serials, edition numbers, inscriptions.
• Describe materials and construction (e.g., walnut with oak secondary, dovetailed joints, mercury gilding).
• Note condition issues: cracks, chips, repairs, inpainting, replaced parts, refinishing.
• Gather provenance: bills of sale, auction invoices, gallery labels, family letters, exhibition catalogs, old appraisals.
• List related items (pairs, sets, services) and confirm completeness (matched chairs, full flatware service counts).
• Identify previous restoration or conservation; include reports and dates if available.
• Research preliminary comparables (same maker/period/form) and note prices realized.
• Check legal status: CITES, export restrictions, cultural patrimony considerations.
• Decide on timeline and preferred sale venues; request fee schedules in advance.
• Avoid cleaning or polishing until advised—original surface can be critical.
• Pack safely if transporting; use inert materials, never newspaper against painted or gilded surfaces.

Bring this package to your appraiser. It saves time and may reduce fees.

FAQ

Q: What’s the difference between appraisal, valuation, and authentication? A: Appraisal is an opinion of value for a defined purpose and date using recognized methodology. Valuation is a broader term sometimes used interchangeably. Authentication assesses whether the piece is what it purports to be (maker, date, medium). Appraisers assess both, but authentication may require specialist scholars, labs, or committees.

Q: How often should I update an insurance appraisal? A: Every 3–5 years, or sooner for volatile categories (contemporary art, design) or after a significant market shift. Update immediately after major conservation, loss, or acquisition of new provenance.

Q: Is restoration worth it before selling? A: Only if it’s necessary for stability or marketability and is reversible. Seek an appraiser’s opinion first; targeted conservation often yields a better return than cosmetic overhauls.

Q: How do appraisers charge? A: Ethically, appraisers charge by time, scope, or flat fee—not a percentage of value. This avoids conflicts of interest. Request a written agreement detailing scope, hourly rate, and deliverables.

Q: What if my piece is a reproduction? A: Quality reproductions can still have decorative or design value. Accurate identification protects you from mispricing and legal issues. Document it as a reproduction; market accordingly to the right audience and venue.

Unlocking value is about clarity: define the assignment, gather evidence, judge condition wisely, and choose the venue that maximizes your net. With the right preparation and a professional, standards-based appraisal, you give your antiques the proof—and the platform—they deserve.