Unlocking History A Comprehensive Guide To Old Military Button Identification

Old military buttons are compact records of service, technology, and design. For appraisers and collectors, reading them accurately means recognizing how materials, construction, backmarks, and iconography evolved across armies and eras. This guide outlines a practical, evidence-led approach you can apply at the bench to identify, date, and value vintage and antique military buttons with confidence.

Start With Construction: Materials, Shanks, and Bodies

Button construction often provides the first reliable date bracket. Handle the button under magnification and good light, then note:

• Materials

  • Pewter/white metal: Common on 18th-century and early 19th-century military buttons, especially for lower ranks and militia.
  • Brass/tombac (copper-zinc alloys): The dominant military button metal from c. 1800 onward; often gilt or lacquered.
  • Gilt finishes: Early mercury fire-gilding (pre-mid-19th century) leaves rich, durable gold; later electroplating yields more uniform gilding.
  • Silvered/white metal faces: Appearing in various periods, notably for some cavalry and dress uniforms.

• Body type

  • One-piece cast with integral or drilled shank: Typically late 18th century into early 19th century; heavier, with softer detail.
  • One-piece stamped: Thinner, convex brass with a soldered loop; early 19th century onward.
  • Two-piece (hollow): A separate domed face crimped or soldered to a back disk, with a wire loop shank soldered to the back. Widely used from c. 1800 through early 20th century.
  • Three-piece variants: Seen on some officer-grade buttons with inserted backs and higher-relief faces.

• Shank

  • Cast/drilled shank: Integral to the body, often on earlier pewter or cast brass buttons (late 1700s–early 1800s).
  • Soldered wire loop: The standard from early/mid-19th century onward; check for solder quality and alignment.
  • Threaded posts and removable backs are modern features and typically not found on older military buttons.

• Rim and back construction

  • Crimped rims and a “spun” appearance are common on 19th-century two-piece buttons.
  • Tin or iron back plates occur in certain 19th-century examples; check for corrosion halos.

Measure diameter in millimeters or lignes (1 ligne ≈ 2.2558 mm). Uniform sets often include different sizes: larger coat buttons and smaller cuff or vest buttons. Proportions help confirm whether a button fits a known pattern or branch.

Decoding Iconography: Crowns, Eagles, Anchors, and Numbers

Military buttons communicate affiliation. Focus on symbols, lettering, and their stylistic nuances:

• Crown styles (British/Commonwealth)

  • Early crowns (pre-Victorian) vary; Queen Victoria’s crown (1837–1901) and the Tudor/Imperial Crown continued through Kings Edward VII, George V, and George VI.
  • Post-1953: St Edward’s Crown on Elizabeth II era; switching back to Tudor Crown during Charles III’s reign in current issues. For “old” buttons, the key split is Victorian versus later kings; crown shape and detailing help refine dates.

• American eagles

  • Early federal motifs vary; by mid-19th century, the “eagle with shield” becomes standard.
  • Letters within the shield (pre- and Civil War era): I (Infantry), C (Cavalry), A (Artillery), D (Dragoons), R (Rifles). Officer-grade often have higher relief and better gilding.
  • Post-1902 Great Seal buttons (U.S.): A universal eagle/shield motif across many uniforms; often bronze or blackened finishes.

• Naval anchors

  • Fouled anchor: Universal naval symbol.
  • British Royal Navy: Anchor under a crown; crown style indicates monarch and era.
  • U.S. Navy: Eagle and anchor motifs; differences in style and quality mark rank and period.

• Regimental numbers and cyphers

  • British and European: Arabic numerals tied to regiments; cyphers/monograms of monarchs or units appear, especially 18th–19th centuries.
  • State or local motifs on militia buttons (U.S. states, French departments, etc.) can be highly distinctive.

• Wreaths, grenades, bugles, cannons

  • Flaming grenade/bomb: Artillery or grenadiers across many nations.
  • Hunting horn/bugle: Light infantry or rifles.
  • Cannons: Artillery.
  • Engineer symbols (castles/fortifications), medical (caduceus), and other branch devices help refine identification.

Pay attention to artistic style: crisp, high-relief engraving and detailed feathers or ropework often indicate officer-grade and earlier manufacture; generic, flatter stampings may indicate later mass production or reproduction.

Backmarks, Quality Legends, and the RMDC Clue

Backmarks—text and symbols on the reverse—often provide the most decisive evidence.

• Maker and retailer names

  • U.S. 19th century: Common names include Scovill, Waterbury, Horstmann, D. Evans & Co., and others. Spelling and corporate styles change over time (e.g., “Scovill & Co.” vs “Scovill Mfg Co.”), creating narrowly datable windows.
  • British: Maker cities like London or Birmingham appear, sometimes with the firm’s name and address.

• Quality legends

  • “Treble Gilt,” “Best Quality,” “Orange Colour” (or “Orange Colour’d”) are commonly seen on earlier 19th-century gilt brass.
  • “Extra Quality,” “Superior Quality,” and stars or dots separating words are later 19th-century conventions.

• RMDC (Raised Mark, Depressed Channel)

  • Many U.S. Civil War-era two-piece buttons show a raised-letter backmark inside a sunken circular channel. While not exclusive to the war, RMDC construction is a strong mid-19th-century indicator.

• Rings, rays, and ornament

  • Concentric rings, rope borders, or radiating lines around the backmark can be maker-specific and time-sensitive.

Document the backmark exactly, including punctuation, capitalization, and separators; small differences may denote significant date and rarity shifts. If the back is corroded, oblique light or a soft graphite rub on archival paper can help reveal letters without damaging the surface.

Dating by Era: A Practical Timeline

Use construction, iconography, and backmarks together to bracket the date:

• Late 18th century (c. 1760–1800)

  • One-piece cast pewter or brass with integral/drilled shanks.
  • Regimental numbers and cyphers are common in British/European armies.
  • Hand-finished details; inconsistent sizes within sets.

• Early 19th century (c. 1800–1835)

  • Transition to one-piece stamped and two-piece gilt brass with soldered wire shanks.
  • Gilt legends like “Treble Gilt” and early maker marks appear.
  • Branch-specific symbols become more standardized.

• Mid-19th century (c. 1835–1865)

  • Two-piece construction dominates.
  • U.S. buttons: RMDC backmarks common; eagle-with-letter branch buttons for Infantry, Cavalry, Artillery, etc.
  • Confederate and state militia buttons show diverse iconography and a range of Southern makers and importers.
  • British: Victorian crown; profusion of numbered regimental and volunteer unit buttons.

• Late 19th century (c. 1865–1900)

  • Continued two-piece, with more uniform industrial production.
  • Backmarks evolve to later corporate styles (e.g., “WATERBURY BUTTON CO.”).
  • Volunteer and militia units proliferate; dress/uniform regulations stabilize designs.

• Early to mid-20th century (c. 1900–1945)

  • U.S. adopts 1902 Great Seal button patterns; finishes include gilt, bronze, and blackened bronze.
  • British/Commonwealth buttons reflect monarch changes (Edward VII through George VI) via crown forms.
  • More standardized sizes and consistent maker stamping.

• Postwar notes

  • Post-1953 Commonwealth buttons display St Edward’s Crown; these are later than most “antique” categories but help rule out earlier attributions.

Always cross-check all three pillars—construction, iconography, backmark—since individual features can be reused or mislead when viewed in isolation.

Grading, Conservation, and Ethical Handling

Condition affects both identification and value:

• Grading cues

  • Gilt retention: “Full gilt,” “traces of gilt,” or “no gilt” materially change value.
  • Detail sharpness and relief: Officer-grade buttons show crisp depth; enlisted and later issues are flatter.
  • Shank integrity: Original, tight soldered shank rates higher than crushed, missing, or replaced loops.
  • Dents, splits, corrosion: Tin or iron backs swell and split; verdigris on brass can obscure detail.

• Cleaning and stabilization

  • Avoid aggressive polishing, which removes historical gilt.
  • For dirt: soft brush and distilled water; dry thoroughly.
  • For bronze disease or active corrosion: isolate and consult a conservator; use non-invasive stabilization.
  • Apply a thin coat of microcrystalline wax only after cleaning to protect surfaces; never wax over active corrosion.

• Storage

  • Stable, dry environment; inert trays or mounts.
  • Keep ferrous-backed buttons away from humidity; consider silica gel.
  • Do not glue shanks; use custom mounts if display is necessary.

• Ethics and provenance

  • Respect local laws on excavation and cultural property.
  • Record findspots and ownership history; provenance enhances appraisal accuracy and value.

Appraisal Factors and Spotting Reproductions

What makes one military button worth $25 and another $2,500? Appraise with a structured rubric:

• Rarity and demand

  • Certain Confederate, early U.S., and specialized British regimental buttons are scarce and highly sought.
  • Maker/location variants (e.g., Southern retailers, short-lived contractors) can elevate value.

• Unit and theater association

  • Buttons traceable to famous campaigns or units command premiums, especially with secure provenance.
  • State militia or volunteer units vary widely; some are common, others rare.

• Grade and completeness

  • Officer-grade and presentation-quality pieces often outrank enlisted versions.
  • Matching sets, original gilt, intact shanks, and minimal damage increase value.

• Backmark variants

  • Minor punctuation or corporate name shifts can create scarce subtypes; condition being equal, rarer backmarks are more valuable.

• Authenticity checks

  • Too-perfect patina or uniformly soft detail can signal modern casts.
  • Wrong metal for the era (e.g., zinc where brass is expected) is a red flag.
  • Magnet test: most genuine older brass/tombac buttons are non-magnetic; iron backs will react at the back only.
  • Incongruent backmarks (maker style/date doesn’t match the front design) indicate marriages or fakes.

When in doubt, compare against high-quality, published reference plates and verified examples. Record measurements and backmarks precisely so peers can vet your attribution.

Quick Identification Checklist

• Photograph both sides before cleaning.
• Measure diameter (mm or lignes) and note thickness/weight if possible.
• Identify construction: one-piece cast/stamped or two-piece hollow; examine shank type.
• Determine base metal and finish: brass/tombac, pewter/white metal, gilt, silvered, blackened bronze.
• Decode iconography: crown type, eagle/anchor, numbers, letters, branch devices.
• Transcribe the backmark exactly, including punctuation and separators.
• Look for RMDC channel, rings, or decorative back features.
• Cross-match construction, imagery, and backmark to an era bracket.
• Assess condition: gilt retention, relief, shank integrity, corrosion.
• Assign a preliminary appraisal tier based on rarity, unit, maker variant, and condition.
• Log provenance and context; store safely.

FAQ

Q: How can I tell a civilian livery button from a military one? A: Livery buttons often feature crests, initials, or heraldic devices without unit numbers or branch symbols and lack official crowns/eagles/anchors aligned with military regulations. Military buttons typically show state, national, or branch insignia and conform to known patterns and sizes. The backmark can also indicate a military contractor.

Q: Should I polish a gilt military button? A: No. Polishing removes the original gilt layer and sharply reduces value. Use only gentle, dry brushing or distilled water for surface dirt, then dry and, if appropriate, apply microcrystalline wax. Seek specialist advice for active corrosion.

Q: What does RMDC mean and why does it matter? A: RMDC stands for Raised Mark, Depressed Channel—a backmark style common on many U.S. mid-19th-century (including Civil War-era) two-piece buttons. While not exclusive to the period, it’s a strong dating clue when paired with appropriate fronts and maker names.

Q: Are reproductions marked as such? A: Sometimes, but not always. Some modern reproductions include discreet marks or use contemporary maker names; others do not. Verify authenticity by construction, metal, relief quality, and period-correct backmarks, not by a single indicator.

Q: How do British crown shapes help with dating? A: Crown forms correspond to monarchs. Victorian crowns indicate 1837–1901; subsequent kings used the Tudor/Imperial Crown into mid-20th century, while post-1953 buttons feature St Edward’s Crown. Matching crown style to unit pattern narrows the date.

By approaching each button methodically—construction first, iconography second, backmark third—you can unlock precise identifications and confident appraisals. Keep meticulous notes and compare against verified examples; the smallest detail often makes the difference between a common find and a rare historical survivor.