Unlocking The Secrets Of The Past A Comprehensive Guide To Identifying Old Metal Buttons

Metal buttons are small, portable artifacts that condense fashion history, military organization, and industrial innovation into a single object. Whether you’re a detectorist, dealer, or decorative-arts enthusiast, learning how to read their materials, construction, and imagery turns unknown finds into well-dated, well-described pieces with credible value. This guide gives you a structured method to identify old metal buttons accurately and ethically.

Anatomy of a Metal Button

Understanding parts and vocabulary keeps your observations precise and comparable.

• Face: The visible front, plain or decorated (relief, engraving, enamel, inlay).
• Edge/Rim: The perimeter; can be rounded, sharp, beaded, or crimped.
• Back: Often carries a maker’s mark (“backmark”), quality mark (e.g., “EXTRA RICH”), or country of origin.
• Shank: The loop or eye used to sew the button; its shape and attachment are date clues.
• Construction: One-piece, two-piece, or three-piece; related to period and quality.
• Seam: On two-piece buttons, the joint where face shell meets the back.
• Size: Traditionally measured in lignes (1 ligne ≈ 2.2558 mm). Small waistcoat buttons often 14–20 lignes; coat buttons typically 22–30 lignes.

Note the pattern of wear: high points of relief, rim edges, and shank are natural wear areas. Uniform brightening or odd color in recesses can indicate recent polishing or artificial patina.

Metals, Finishes, and Patina Clues

The base metal and finish often narrow the date range and origin.

• Brass: The workhorse of 18th–20th century buttons. Early “tombac” (high-copper brass) shows warm rosy-gold tones, common c. 1760–1820. Later brass can be more yellow. Verdigris (green corrosion) suggests copper-containing alloys.
• Copper: Less common for full buttons; often used for decorative inlays or as substrate for plating.
• Pewter/Lead alloys: Frequent in 17th–early 19th century civilian buttons. Softer, heavier for size, with grey tone and potential white oxidation; many have cast integral shanks. Lead content can be high—handle and store carefully.
• Iron/Steel: Magnetic. Used for economy backs or complete buttons in later 19th–20th centuries. Prone to rust; black japanned finishes were applied for protection.
• Nickel Silver (German silver): Copper-nickel-zinc alloy, silver-colored without silver content; common from 1830s onward.
• Aluminum: Light and nonmagnetic; not common until the 1890s and later.
• Silver/Gold: Solid or plated on better quality livery and dress buttons; silver will tarnish to grey/black; gold plating resists tarnish.

Finishes

• Fire-gilding (mercury gilding): Rich, warm gold with fine “watered” look, typical pre-1850 on higher-grade buttons. Do not abrade—historic and hazardous if altered.
• Electroplating: From the 1840s onward; can appear more even and cooler in tone than fire-gilt.
• Tinning/Silvering: Thin, bright coating on copper alloys to mimic silver; often worn on high spots.
• Japanned (black enamel): Glossy protective coating, mid-19th century onward, especially on steel/iron backs.
• Lacquers and varnishes: Applied to protect brightwork; aged lacquers can appear yellowed.

Simple tests

• Magnet: Attraction indicates ferrous metal (iron/steel); no attraction suggests copper alloys, pewter, aluminum, or precious metals.
• Weight and “feel”: Pewter is soft/heavy for size; aluminum is surprisingly light.
• Scratch test is discouraged—use a loupe (10x–20x) for tool marks, plating edges, and wear.

Manufacturing Methods and Dating

Construction detail is one of the most reliable dating tools.

One-piece buttons

• Cast pewter/lead with integral shank: Common c. 17th–early 19th century civilian wear. Often crude sprue scars or mold seams; shanks can be drilled or cast solid.
• Stamped brass one-piece with soldered shank: Late 18th–early 19th century. Flat or slightly convex faces; backmarks often incuse (pressed in) early, raised later.

Two-piece (and three-piece) buttons

• Two-piece: A domed face shell and a separate back, typically brass, joined by crimping or solder. Dominant from c. 1830 through early 20th century for military and livery.
• Three-piece: Shell, inner filler (often metal disc or paper/card), and back. The “spin-back” seam can show lathe-like circular tool marks.
• Back seams: Narrow, even crimped seams are mid- to late-19th century; broader or irregular seams can be earlier.

Shank types

• Cast integral shank: 17th–early 19th century, especially pewter.
• Drilled or “eye” shank: Early forms where a hole is drilled through a thick nub.
• Wire loop shank soldered to back: Common from late 18th century onward on brass buttons; “omega” loop shape typical.
• T-shank or wedge variations: Certain 19th-century makers and military contracts.

Backmarks and legal marks

• Quality marks (“TREBLE GILT,” “EXTRA RICH,” “BEST QUALITY”): Peaked c. 1800–1850, signaling plating quality rather than maker.
• Maker names: Examples include “SCOVILL MFG CO / WATERBURY,” “WATERBURY BUTTON CO,” “FIRMIN & SONS LONDON,” “JENNENS & CO LONDON,” “H T & S” (Hammond, Turner & Sons). Exact date ranges depend on corporate histories; presence of “& SONS,” “CO,” or “LTD” can bracket eras (e.g., “LTD” generally post-1860s in Britain).
• Country of origin: After 1891, imported buttons to the U.S. typically bear a country mark (e.g., “ENGLAND”); by the 1910s, “MADE IN …” becomes common.
• Patent dates/numbers: Appear from mid-19th century onward; provide firm post-ante quem dates.

Dating heuristics (broad)

• Cast pewter/lead with integral shanks: 1600s–early 1800s.
• Flat one-piece brass with gilding and incuse backmarks: c. 1780–1830.
• Engine-turned and bright-line decorated gilt brass: c. 1800–1840.
• Two-piece convex brass with soldered wire shank: c. 1830–1900+ (military/livery).
• Nickel-silver and aluminum: mid/late 19th century onward.
• Enamel insets and detailed livery: late 19th–early 20th century.

Decoding Designs and Insignia

Imagery ties buttons to specific organizations and periods. Compare style, heraldry rules, and manufacturing.

Military (selected clues)

• British: Royal cyphers (e.g., GR, VR, ER), regimental numbers within garters, crown styles (Tudor vs. King’s vs. Queen’s crowns) help refine monarch/date. Royal Navy: fouled anchor, variations by era and rank.
• United States: Eagle motifs evolve—early eagles vary by contractor; post-1850s standardization increases. Civil War branch letters (A Artillery, C Cavalry, I Infantry, D Dragoons on earlier patterns), state seals for militia. Greater uniformity after the 1902 regulations using the Great Seal.
• France and others: Grenades (infantry/artillery), anchors (navy), cockerel, and departmental numbers on Napoleonic-era buttons.

Livery and civic

• Livery: Family crests, initials in script, hunting horns, fox heads, coronets indicating rank. Silver or gilt brass common. Sets (coat/waistcoat sizes) were made together; matching sets increase value.
• Civic/transport: Police, fire brigade, railroad, shipping lines—often feature coats of arms, locomotives, ship anchors, initials in wreaths. These are usually late 19th–20th century with clear backmarks.

Civilian fashion

• Geometric engine-turning (bright-cut), floral and neoclassical motifs around 1800–1830.
• Later Art Nouveau and Art Deco motifs; enamels or inlaid glass common after 1890.
• Novelty and advertising buttons proliferate in the early 20th century.

Sizing patterns

• Coat buttons larger (22–30 lignes), waistcoat smaller (14–20 lignes). A set with consistent design in at least two sizes suggests original outfit use.

Research Workflow and Quick Checklist

A repeatable workflow reduces misidentification.

1. Observe without cleaning

• Note diameter (in lignes), weight, magnetism, and color under natural light.
• Photograph both sides before any intervention.

2. Identify construction

• One-piece vs two-/three-piece; look for seams, crimping, or spin marks.
• Examine the shank: integral cast, drilled, or soldered wire; assess shape and solder type.

3. Read the back

• Transcribe the backmark exactly, including stars, dots, ropes, and separators. Quality marks can be decisive for early gilt buttons.
• Note country-of-origin words or patent data.

4. Analyze imagery

• Recognize heraldic components: shields, crowns, wreaths, numbers, cyphers, anchors, grenades. Confirm that style matches the supposed era (e.g., crown form vs monarch).

5. Consider metal/finish

• Brass vs tombac tones; presence of gilding or silvering; nickel-silver brightness; pewter softness.

6. Date and attribute

• Use combined clues: construction + backmark + legal marks + iconography. Avoid relying on a single indicator.

7. Evaluate condition and completeness

• Check for pushed-in faces, split seams, replaced shanks, heavy polishing, or active corrosion.

8. Record provenance

• Where found, associated artifacts, and seller notes. Good provenance can add value and prevent future disputes.

Quick Identification Checklist

• Measure diameter in lignes (1 ligne ≈ 2.26 mm) and test with a magnet.
• Note construction (1-, 2-, or 3-piece) and shank type.
• Transcribe backmark/quality marks; look for origin or patent words.
• Identify imagery and match to military/livery/civic motifs.
• Assess finish (gilded, silvered, japanned) and patina consistency.
• Cross-check clues to assign a cautious date range.
• Document condition and provenance before any cleaning.

Care, Storage, and Value Factors

Buttons are durable but easy to over-clean. Conservation-minded handling preserves both scholarship and value.

Cleaning

• Dry methods first: soft brush, wooden picks, compressed air (gentle). Avoid steel tools.
• Avoid polishing gilt, silvering, or aged lacquer—abrasion removes historic surfaces and reduces value.
• Verdigris on copper alloys can be mechanically reduced with wooden picks; if active, isolate the piece. For any chemical treatment, proceed cautiously and test in inconspicuous areas.
• Rust on steel: very light mechanical reduction; consider tannic acid or microcrystalline wax as stabilizers, but only after research and spot-testing.

Stabilization and storage

• Apply a microcrystalline wax sparingly to clean, dry metal for barrier protection (avoid on loose gilding or flaking enamel).
• Store in inert, acid-free materials (archival trays, polyethylene or polyester sleeves). Avoid PVC.
• Keep relative humidity stable; use silica gel. Isolate active corrosion to prevent cross-contamination.
• Label with soft pencil or archival tags—never marker on the button.

Safety

• Pewter/lead buttons can contain significant lead. Wear gloves when handling, wash hands, and keep away from food prep areas.
• Old japanned coatings and fire-gilded surfaces should not be sanded or heated.

Value drivers

• Subject matter: Early military, rare regiments, ornate livery, and identifiable civic/railroad buttons often lead.
• Rarity variations: Backmark variants, presentation-quality gilt, unusual sizes.
• Condition: Original finish intact, crisp detail, stable shank. Sets (coat + waistcoat) command premiums.
• Provenance: Documented origin, association with a uniform or estate, or findspot with context.

Distinguishing reproductions

• Overly soft or “mushy” detail; seams that look cast rather than crimped on supposed two-piece buttons.
• Shiny, homogeneous “antique” patina in recesses and suspicious wear on high points.
• Modern solder (bright, glassy) on a claimed early button; wrong crown or heraldic style for the alleged date.
• Inconsistent backmark typography or misspellings; country-of-origin marks that conflict with claimed era.

Pricing responsibly

• Compare to recent sales of identical maker/insignia/size in similar condition, not just generic types.
• Note repairs: replaced shanks and re-gilding lower value. Damage to faces or enamel is a major deduction.

Frequently Asked Questions

Q: How do I measure a button accurately? A: Use calipers across the widest point and record in lignes (1 ligne ≈ 2.26 mm). Note thickness and dome height if relevant, plus shank type.

Q: My brass button is very bright. Should I polish it? A: No. Brightness could be original gilding or lacquer. Polishing removes historic surfaces and can halve value. Clean gently and preserve.

Q: What single feature is best for dating? A: None. Combine construction (one-/two-piece, shank style), backmarks (maker/quality/country), and imagery. Legal marks (e.g., “ENGLAND” after 1891) are particularly strong clues.

Q: Are pewter buttons always old? A: They skew earlier but not always. Many 18th–early 19th century pewter buttons exist, yet later examples and reproductions are common. Look at shank type, casting quality, and wear.

Q: Can I identify a regiment from a number on a British button? A: Often, yes—but verify the crown style, surrounding motto/garter, and date range. Regimental numbers were reused or reorganized; context matters.

Small, well-observed details make big differences in attribution and value. Work methodically, record data, preserve original surfaces, and treat each button as a historical document in miniature.