Unlocking The Worth Of Vintage A Collectors Guide To The Value Of Old Clorox Bottles

Old Clorox bottles are more than amber glass jugs from a laundry room past. They trace the evolution of household packaging, glassmaking, and brand identity across the twentieth century. For collectors, they offer approachable price points, clear dating clues in their maker’s marks, and the thrill of finding early variations that survived hard use. This guide explains how to identify, date, and value vintage Clorox bottles with confidence.

A brief history: why Clorox bottles matter

Clorox began in 1913 in Oakland, California, initially selling strong bleach to businesses before launching a milder household product. Early bleach was sensitive to light, so the company chose amber glass for protection. Over the decades, Clorox partnered with major glass manufacturers to produce standardized, returnable bottles in quart, half-gallon, and gallon sizes.

Key milestones that shape what you’ll see:

• 1910s–early 1920s: Embossed, heavy amber glass; regional distribution; cork-and-cap closures common in the broader industry.
• 1920s: The company adopted the name The Clorox Chemical Company (commonly cited as 1922), and embossed branding reflected this. Manufacturing scaled up.
• 1929–1950s: Widespread machine-made bottles by Owens-Illinois Glass Company. Consistent maker’s marks and date codes appear, enabling precise dating.
• 1954 onward: Owens-Illinois updated its trademark. By the late 1950s, company embossing shifts from “Chemical Company” to “The Clorox Company” (1957 change), and paper labels become more prevalent.
• Late 1960s: Transition to plastic packaging, effectively ending the amber glass era.

Most Clorox bottles encountered today date from the 1930s–1950s. Earlier pieces exist but are scarcer due to lower production and heavier attrition from reuse.

Identification: shapes, sizes, embossing, and color

Clorox standardized its packaging, so features repeat across decades with subtle variations. Look for:

• Color: Nearly all authentic vintage Clorox bottles are amber (brown) to protect bleach from light. Shades range from dark chocolate to honey amber. True clear or aqua “Clorox” bottles are unusual and warrant close scrutiny—many “clear” examples are either later specialty uses, foreign-market variants, or misattributed bottles from other brands.
• Shape: Cylindrical body with high shoulder and short neck. Some have a shallow ring or collar below the lip to seat a cap. Early examples feel heavier with thicker bases.
• Sizes and embossing:
  • QUART, 1 QUART, or 32 OZ embossing
  • 1/2 GALLON
  • 1 GALLON
  • CLOROX prominently on the shoulder or body
  • MADE IN U.S.A. and capacity often appear
  • Company name: “THE CLOROX CHEMICAL COMPANY” typically indicates pre-1957; “THE CLOROX COMPANY” suggests 1957 or later.
• Closures: Threaded screw tops dominate the 1930s–1950s. Cork closures are more associated with very early household packaging and are scarce on clearly branded Clorox bottles.
• Labels: Surviving paper labels are far less common than bare glass. Original labels, intact and legible, add meaningful value.

Tip: Because Clorox bottles were utilitarian and returnable, expect wear. Crisp embossing and light case wear are positive signs, while heavy abrasion, chips, and internal haze detract from value.

Maker’s marks and date codes: reading the base

Owens-Illinois (O-I) made the majority of Clorox’s glass through mid-century, and their marks are among the easiest to interpret. Rotate the base under good light and note any symbols and digits.

• O-I trademark styles:
  • 1929–1954: Diamond enclosing an “O” with an “I” overlapped (often called the “diamond O-I” mark).
  • 1954 onward: “I” inside an “O” without a surrounding diamond.
• Typical code layout around the trademark:
  • A plant code (one or two digits)
  • The O-I trademark
  • A mold code (one or two digits)
  • A date code—often one or two digits indicating the year
• Dating tips:
  • Single-digit year codes on 1930s bottles (e.g., “7” often denotes 1937 if the diamond O-I is present and context fits).
  • Two-digit year codes appear later (e.g., “46” for 1946).
  • The code’s position varies by era; sometimes the year sits below the trademark. Use the trademark style and company embossing together to cross-check plausibility.
• Other glassmakers: Clorox also sourced glass from additional manufacturers at times, so you may encounter different marks or none at all. When uncertain, rely on the company-name embossing, capacity style, and form to estimate a period.

Caution: Date codes indicate the glass was made that year, not necessarily the exact year the bottle was filled or distributed—but for returnable, standardized bottles, production and use typically followed closely.

Value and price guide: what old Clorox bottles are worth

Values vary by region and change with collector interest, but these ballpark ranges reflect recent, typical asking and selling prices for sound, collectible examples. Expect higher prices for excellent condition, attractive color, strong embossing, early dates, and original labels.

• Common workhorses (1930s–1950s, amber, embossed CLOROX, quart/half-gallon/gallon, no label):
  • Typical: $10–30
  • Exceptional condition or scarce plant/mold variants: $30–60
• Bottles with original paper labels, bright and mostly complete:
  • Quart: $40–90
  • Half-gallon/gallon: $60–120
• Early or unusual variants:
  • Bottles with earlier corporate embossing or transitional features: $75–150
  • Rare pre-1930s pieces associated with early distribution or unusual capacities: can exceed $150 when verified and clean
• Damaged examples (chips, cracks, heavy haze):
  • Usually $5–15 unless very scarce or with desirable labels

Regional scarcity matters. In areas distant from major O-I plants or original Clorox distribution hubs, prices can run higher due to lower local supply. Conversely, in bottle-rich regions, common sizes are abundant and sell near the lower end of ranges.

Market reality check: Massive price spikes are uncommon. Most Clorox bottles are collectible because they’re historically interesting, not because they’re routinely high-dollar antiques. The best returns come from superior condition, early dating, or standout labels.

Condition, cleaning, and preservation

• Surface: Look for case wear (scuffs from crates) and “sickness” (cloudy interior etching from bleach or water). Light haze can sometimes be improved; etched glass cannot be fully restored without professional tumbling.
• Embossing: Crisp, high-relief letters present better and reflect less wear. Weak, soft embossing is either mold-related or indicates heavy use.
• Damage: Chips, bruises, and cracks depress value significantly. Fleabites on the base edge matter less than lip chips, which stand out on display and threaten structural integrity.
• Caps and labels: Original caps (especially branded metal screw caps) and intact paper labels can transform a $20 bottle into an $80+ bottle. Avoid soaking labeled bottles.

Cleaning do’s and don’ts:

• Do start with warm water and mild dish soap. Use a soft bottle brush and rinse thoroughly.
• Do use a vinegar soak for mineral deposits; rinse immediately afterward.
• Don’t use abrasive scouring powders or steel wool.
• Don’t soak labels or scrub embossed paint if present.
• Consider professional bottle tumbling for high-value pieces with stubborn haze. Ask the restorer about before/after expectations and risks.

Storage and display:

• Keep out of direct sunlight to protect labels and avoid thermal stress.
• Display on stable shelves with felt pads under bases to prevent scratches.
• Maintain moderate temperatures; avoid attics or garages where heat fluctuates.

Safety note: Old bottles sometimes harbor residual chemical odors. Rinse thoroughly and let the interior air-dry inverted. Never mix residual cleaners or chemicals inside a bottle.

Authenticity and reproductions: what to watch for

Because Clorox bottles are simple amber cylinders, reproductions and “Clorox-style” decor pieces appear on the market. Confirm authenticity with these checks:

• Embossing accuracy: Genuine bottles show correct spelling, coherent line breaks, and period-appropriate wording (e.g., “THE CLOROX CHEMICAL COMPANY” on pre-1957 bottles). Novelty pieces often have generic “BLEACH” or whimsical embossing, or fonts that look modern.
• Maker’s mark and codes: Authentic bottles generally carry maker’s marks (often O-I) and capacity embossing. Reproductions often lack any base marks or present nonsense codes.
• Glass quality: Vintage bottles show mold seams, occasional bubbles, and typical mid-century machine-made character. Repros may look too perfect, with glossy, uniform glass and no working marks.
• Color: True Clorox bottles are almost always amber. Odd colors should be scrutinized carefully and provenance verified.

When a bottle seems “too good,” weigh the story, the embossing, and the base marks together. Consistency across all clues is your best guardrail.

Where to find them and how to buy smart

• Estate and barn sales: Returnable bottles were stored for reuse and sometimes lingered for decades on shelves or in basements.
• Bottle shows and club meets: Best for comparing variants side by side and learning from seasoned collectors.
• General antiques dealers: Often carry common sizes; ask to inspect bases for date codes and plant marks.
• Online marketplaces: Set alerts for “Clorox amber quart/half gallon/gallon.” Ask sellers for clear photos of the base, shoulder embossing, and lip.

Buying tips:

• Request base photos showing the maker’s mark and date code.
• Confirm size (height and capacity) and check for lip chips.
• For labeled bottles, ask how the bottle was stored and whether the label is original (not a reproduction glued on).

Quick appraisal checklist

Use this checklist to triage a Clorox bottle in under two minutes:

• Color: Amber, even tone, no devitrification (milky sheen)
• Embossing: “CLOROX” plus company wording; capacity (QUART/1/2 GALLON/1 GALLON)
• Maker’s mark: O-I diamond (1929–1954) or O-I without diamond (1954+); note date code
• Condition: No cracks; minimal lip/base chips; limited interior haze
• Extras: Original paper label? Branded cap? Clean, legible text?
• Rarity cues: Early corporate wording, unusual capacity, uncommon plant code
• Value tier: Common clean example $10–30; labeled/early/exceptional $40–150+

FAQ

Q: How do I tell the age of my Clorox bottle quickly? A: Start with the base. If you see a diamond O-I mark, you’re likely between 1929 and 1954. An O-I without the diamond points to 1954 onward. Cross-check with the company name on the bottle: “The Clorox Chemical Company” is pre-1957; “The Clorox Company” is 1957 or later. A numeric date code near the mark often confirms the year.

Q: Are clear Clorox bottles valuable? A: Most authentic vintage Clorox bottles are amber. Clear examples are atypical and should be verified; many “clear Clorox” bottles are misidentified or decorative. If you have a clear bottle with convincing embossing and period maker’s marks, it deserves closer research, but approach claims of rarity cautiously.

Q: What sizes did Clorox bottles come in? A: The common consumer sizes are quart, half-gallon, and gallon. You’ll see these embossed on the glass. Other capacities exist in earlier or specialized contexts, but the big three dominate the collectible market.

Q: Does damage destroy value? A: It depends. Hairline cracks and big lip chips are major value killers. Light base wear and small fleabites are more tolerable on common bottles. Interior etching (“sickness”) is a frequent issue; light haze can be improved, but etched glass remains cloudy and prices accordingly.

Q: What’s the most desirable feature for collectors? A: Early dating plus condition. A clean, strongly embossed amber bottle with a readable date code from the 1930s and a surviving original label is a standout. Unusual embossing (e.g., earlier company wording) can also elevate interest and price.

By focusing on embossing, maker’s marks, and condition—and calibrating expectations to what’s common versus truly scarce—you can appraise old Clorox bottles confidently. They’re a rewarding niche: historically rich, display-friendly, and, with the right eye, still full of discoveries in attics and antique aisles alike.