Mother may not have told you, but you can get more than a bad case of tetanus from the metal screws and plates on old furniture. Hardware is one of the fastest ways to narrow a time period because manufacturing methods changed in clear jumps: hand-forged to machine-made, slotted to Phillips, cast to stamped, and solid brass to plated steel.
This guide shows you how to read those clues—screws, nails, hinges, locks, and finishes—so you can estimate an age range and spot later repairs. Think of it as a practical field method: a flashlight, a magnet, and five minutes on the underside can tell you more than a seller’s story.
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Quick-start: what to check first (5 minutes)
If you only have a moment at an estate sale or in an attic, check these items in this order:
- Screws: slotted vs. Phillips, tapered vs. straight shank, and how clean the slot edges look.
- Nails and tacks: hand-wrought vs. machine-cut vs. modern wire nails.
- Hinges and plates: hand-forged/cast vs. machine-stamped; surface-mounted vs. mortised.
- Locks/keyholes: style of escutcheon plate and how it’s fastened.
- Finish on metal: solid brass vs. plated steel; nickel/chrome vs. earlier finishes.
Dating by screws: the most reliable hardware clue
Screws changed dramatically as industry standardized. A single screw rarely gives an exact year, but a handful of consistent screws can narrow a piece to a generation.
| Clue | Common range | What you’re looking at |
|---|---|---|
| Irregular slot + tapered shank | Before mid-1800s (often earlier) | Hand-filed head/slot; threads may look uneven under magnification. |
| Consistent slotted screws | Mid-1800s to early 1900s | Machine-made; still commonly slotted in furniture hardware. |
| Phillips (cross) head screws | 1930s+ | Mass adoption mid-20th century; very common in later repairs. |
| Robertson / Torx / combo heads | Late 20th century+ | Strong indicator of replacement hardware on older pieces. |
Practical tip: take a close photo straight-on. If slot edges are razor-sharp and bright, the screw is either very well preserved or relatively new. Older slotted screws typically show rounding or “cam-out” marks from screwdrivers.
Dating by nails and tacks
Nails are especially useful on case backs, drawer bottoms, and upholstered frames. You’re looking for the transition from hand-forged to cut nails, then to round wire nails.
- Hand-wrought nails: irregular, often square in section, with hammered heads (earlier furniture).
- Machine-cut nails: rectangular/square shank with a more uniform look (common 1800s).
- Wire nails: round shank with a modern, consistent head (late 1800s/1900s+).
Caveat: repairs are frequently done with modern wire nails, especially on backs and dust panels—so compare several areas, not just one.
Hinges, plates, and fasteners: shape matters
Hinge style can hint at both age and intended quality. The most important question is whether the hinge looks handmade/cast or machine stamped.
- Surface-mounted strap or “H” hinges: often seen on earlier chests and cupboards, and later on rustic revivals.
- Butt hinges (mortised into the wood): common on finer case pieces; check the screw type and the precision of the mortise.
- Stamped hinges with crisp edges: common on later mass production; look for uniformity and modern plating.
Dating tip: compare hinge patina to surrounding wood oxidation. A hinge that’s dramatically shinier (or dramatically darker) than nearby wear can suggest a replacement.
Locks, keyholes, and escutcheons
A keyhole plate (escutcheon) is small but information-dense. Older plates may show hand finishing and irregularity; later examples are often stamped with repeating patterns.
- How the plate is attached (tiny nails/tacks vs. screws)
- Whether the keyhole looks neatly cut or widened from later use
- Whether the lock mechanism fits the mortise cleanly (original) or sits awkwardly (added later)
Plating and metal finishes: brass, nickel, chrome
Metal finish is another broad-era clue. A magnet helps quickly: solid brass is non-magnetic; plated steel often is. Finish trends also map to periods of mass production.
- Brass: common for pulls/escutcheons across many eras; check if it’s solid or plated.
- Nickel plating: widely used on decorative hardware from the late 1800s into the early 1900s.
- Chrome: strongly associated with 1920s+ modernism and mid-century furniture hardware.
Don’t over-polish. A “restored-to-new” shine can erase age cues and make it harder to evaluate authenticity.
How to spot replaced hardware (and why it matters)
Replaced pulls or locks don’t automatically kill value—repairs are normal—but they can change both the story and the price. Here are the most common tells:
- Mismatched screw heads: mixed slotted + Phillips in the same hinge or pull.
- "Shadow" outlines: a darker silhouette where an earlier backplate used to sit.
- Fresh holes: clean, bright wood around a new screw hole in an otherwise oxidized interior.
- Wrong scale: oversized modern pulls on a delicate drawer front.
Market snapshot: what buyers pay for quality antique case pieces
Hardware isn’t the only driver (provenance, wood species, construction, and condition matter more), but originality is often the tie-breaker between two similar pieces. Here are three recent auction results for antique case furniture that show the range of demand:
| Auction | Date | Lot | Hammer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Pook & Pook Inc. | 2024-09-26 | 803 | $9,500 |
| Auctions at Showplace | 2024-01-07 | 41 | $6,000 |
| Nadeau’s Auction Gallery | 2023-10-21 | 189 | $3,200 |
Photo checklist for an expert dating estimate
If you want a reliable opinion, the best upgrade is better photos. Capture:
- One clear shot of the whole piece (front and side)
- Underside and back construction (boards, fasteners, dust panels)
- Close-ups of hinges, locks, and one or two representative screws
- Drawer interiors and joinery (dovetails, runners)
- Any labels, stamps, or penciled numbers
The goal is to confirm consistency: hardware, wood oxidation, and construction should tell the same story.
Putting it together: build an age range (don’t date by one screw)
The safest way to date a piece is to look for agreement across clues. Hardware is powerful, but it’s also the part most likely to be replaced.
- Cross-check with construction: drawer joinery, tool marks, and back panel construction should match the hardware era.
- Expect some replacements: one newer hinge on an otherwise consistent piece can be a repair, not a fake.
- Watch for “all new hardware”: a full set of modern screws can hide a reproduction or a heavily rebuilt piece.
When to ask an expert (and what to ask)
If the date range affects money (sale, insurance, estate division), get a second set of eyes. Hardware can be misleading when parts have been swapped.
- High-value, signed, or designer furniture where authenticity matters
- Pieces with mixed hardware (some slotted, some Phillips) and unclear repair history
- Items tied to an estate or insurance claim where documentation is required
- Furniture with extensive modifications (new backs, new legs, rebuilt drawers)
Ask what evidence they’re relying on (screws? nails? joinery? labels?) and request a written date range with notes about any likely replacements.
Search variations collectors ask
Readers often search for these hardware dating questions while researching a piece:
- how to date antique furniture by screws
- cut nails vs wire nails furniture age
- what does a Phillips screw mean on antique furniture
- how to tell if furniture hardware is original
- how to identify antique hinges and hinge styles
- how to date a dresser by the keyhole plate
- does replacing drawer pulls reduce value
- how to date a steamer trunk by the lock and rivets
- nickel vs chrome furniture hardware dating
Each question is answered above (screws, nails, hinges, locks, finishes, and replacement clues).
References
- U.S. National Park Service Conserve O Gram (collections care)
- Smithsonian Museum Conservation Institute: Taking care of collections
- Fine Woodworking (furniture construction + hardware)
Wrap-up
Dating vintage furniture is rarely about one “magic” clue. But metal fixtures are one of the most consistent signals because the tooling and fasteners reflect industrial history. Check multiple screws and nails, compare hinge styles and patina, and always watch for later repairs. When you need a confident age range for resale, insurance, or estate work, a short photo set of the hardware and underside is usually enough for an expert to narrow it down.