Introduction to Vintage Bulova Watches
Bulova, founded in 1875, has created some of America’s most enduring timepieces. These watches combine craftsmanship, innovation, and distinctive design, making vintage Bulova watches highly sought after by collectors. Whether inherited as family heirlooms or discovered at estate sales, old Bulova watches can hold significant value, but that value depends on numerous factors from age and rarity to condition and authenticity.
In this comprehensive guide, we’ll explore how to determine the value of vintage Bulova watches, identify significant models, understand dating codes, and navigate the current collector’s market. Whether you’re a seasoned collector or simply curious about an old timepiece you’ve discovered, this guide will help you understand what makes certain Bulova watches particularly valuable.
The Bulova Legacy: A Brief History
Bulova’s story begins with Joseph Bulova, a Czech immigrant who opened a jewelry store in New York City in 1875. By 1911, the company began manufacturing and selling pocket watches, and by the 1920s, Bulova had established itself as a major player in the wristwatch market.
Throughout its history, Bulova has achieved numerous milestones:
Bulova's Historical Timeline
- 1875
Company Founded
Joseph Bulova establishes his first jewelry store in New York City. - 1919
First Full Line of Men's Watches
Bulova introduces its first complete line of men's jeweled wristwatches. - 1924
First Radio Advertisement
Bulova creates history with the first national radio commercial: "At the tone, it's 8 PM, B-U-L-O-V-A Bulova watch time." - 1941
First TV Commercial
Bulova airs the first television commercial in U.S. history. - 1960
Accutron Technology
Introduction of the revolutionary Accutron tuning fork technology, the first electronic watch. - 1969
Moon Landing
Bulova timing devices are used on NASA missions and during the moon landing.
This rich history contributes significantly to the collectibility and value of vintage Bulova timepieces. Models from significant eras or those that feature groundbreaking technology often command premium prices in today’s collector’s market.
Dating Your Vintage Bulova Watch
Bulova used several different date code systems throughout its history:
Pre-1950s Watches
Watches produced before 1950 typically don’t have standardized date codes. For these early models, dating relies primarily on:
- Case design and style elements
- Movement type and serial numbers
- Advertisements from the period
- Catalog references
1950-1969: The Letter-Number System
In 1950, Bulova introduced its first standardized date code system using a letter followed by a number:
- The letter (A through M, excluding I) represents the decade (L = 1950s, M = 1960s)
- The number (0-9) represents the specific year within that decade
For example, “L4” indicates 1954, while “M2” would be 1962.
1970-1980s: Two-Letter System
From 1970 to the early 1980s, Bulova switched to a two-letter system:
- The first letter (N through T) indicates the decade (N = 1970s)
- The second letter (A through M, excluding I) indicates the specific year
For example, “NJ” would represent 1979, while “PA” would indicate 1980.
After 1980s
Dating becomes more complex after the 1980s, with various systems used depending on the watch model and production location.
Locating Bulova Date Codes
Where to look for date codes on your vintage Bulova watch:
- Case back (remove with proper tools)
- Inside the case (requires opening by a professional)
- On the movement itself
- Sometimes on the dial (rare)
For the most accurate dating of your vintage Bulova watch, consider consulting specialist resources like MyBulova.com, a comprehensive database maintained by Bulova collectors and experts.
Most Valuable Vintage Bulova Watch Models
Bulova Accutron (1960-1977)
The Accutron represents Bulova’s most significant technological achievement, utilizing a tuning fork mechanism that revolutionized accuracy in timekeeping. The most valuable Accutron models include:
- Accutron Spaceview: With its exposed tuning fork movement visible through the dial
- Accutron Astronaut: Designed for pilots and astronauts with GMT functionality
- Accutron Snorkel: Diving watches with distinctive cases and bezels
- Accutron “TV” or “Cushion”: With their distinctive 1970s-era case designs
Bulova Marine Star (1940s-1960s)
These early waterproof models are highly sought after, particularly:
- Early 23-jewel automatic versions
- Models with original diver bezels intact
- Examples with original boxes and papers
Bulova Chronographs (1940s-1970s)
Vintage Bulova chronographs, especially those with Valjoux movements, can command significant prices:
- Bulova Chronograph C: With distinctive tri-compax dial layout
- Chronograph 23: With internal rotating bezel models
- “Stars and Stripes”: Military-style chronographs from the late 1960s and early 1970s
Art Deco Models (1920s-1930s)
Bulova’s distinctive Art Deco designs from this era, particularly women’s models, can be quite valuable:
- Bulova “Lady Lindy”: Named after Amelia Earhart
- Diamond-set cocktail watches: Especially those with unique case shapes
- Men’s “Banker” or “President”: With distinctive rectangular cases
Military-Issue Bulova (1940s-1950s)
Watches produced for the U.S. military during WWII and the Korean War era:
- A-11 Specification watches: With black dials and luminous hands
- A-17 Navigation watches: Larger 24-hour dials for military navigation
- Any watch with proper military markings and provenance
Value Ranges for Collectible Bulova Models
Approximate price ranges for vintage Bulova watches in good to excellent condition
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It’s important to note that these values represent average market prices for watches in good to excellent condition. Exceptional examples with rare features, original packaging, or documented provenance can command significantly higher prices.
Factors Affecting Vintage Bulova Watch Values
Condition
Perhaps the most significant factor determining value is condition:
Condition Impact on Value
Original Parts and Authenticity
Watches with all original components typically command higher prices:
- Original dial (not refinished or repainted)
- Original hands
- Original crystal (less important, as these are service items)
- Original movement parts
- Original bracelet or strap (when applicable)
Material
The materials used in the watch significantly impact value:
- Solid gold cases are worth more than gold-filled or gold-plated
- 14K or 18K gold cases are worth more than 10K
- Stainless steel usually commands more than base metal cases
- Watches with genuine diamond or gemstone elements have added value
Rarity and Historical Significance
Limited production models or those with historical importance command premium prices:
- Special edition models
- Models with documented historical connections
- Early examples of important technological innovations
- Models with unusual features or designs
Provenance and Documentation
Documentation and history can significantly enhance value:
- Original purchase receipts
- Service history
- Celebrity or notable previous ownership
- Military issue documentation
- Original boxes and papers
Condition Assessment for Vintage Bulova Watches
Check all that apply to evaluate your watch's condition:
- Case shows original finish with minimal scratches or wear
- Dial is original with no refinishing, discoloration, or damage
- Hands are original and match the watch model
- Crystal is clear with no significant scratches or cracks
- Movement is clean, functioning properly, and keeps accurate time
- All functions (date, chronograph, etc.) work correctly
- Original bracelet or strap is present and in good condition
- Original box, papers, and accessories are present
How to Research Your Vintage Bulova Watch
Step 1: Document Your Watch
Begin by recording all available information about your watch:
- Take clear, well-lit photographs of the front, back, sides, and any markings
- Measure the case diameter (not including crown) and thickness
- Note any text on the dial, case back, or movement
- Document the date code if present
- Note whether the watch is running correctly
Step 2: Identify the Model
Once you’ve gathered basic information, try to identify the specific model:
Use dedicated Bulova resources:
- MyBulova.com - The most comprehensive online database of vintage Bulova watches
- Vintage Watch Forums - Communities where experts can help identify your watch
- Vintage Bulova Watch Guide - Helpful guides for identification
Check period advertisements and catalogs: Vintage advertisements and catalogs often show the original model names and retail prices
Look for similar auction results: Search completed auctions on platforms like eBay, Christie’s, and Sotheby’s for comparable watches
Step 3: Assess Condition and Authenticity
Have your watch examined by a professional watchmaker or appraiser who specializes in vintage timepieces to:
- Verify authenticity of all components
- Assess condition of movement and case
- Identify any replaced or non-original parts
- Determine service needs
Step 4: Research Current Market Values
Look at multiple sources to understand the current market value:
Online Marketplaces:
- eBay completed listings
- Chrono24
- Specialized vintage watch dealers
Auction Results:
- Major auction houses like Christie’s and Sotheby’s
- Specialized watch auctions like Antiquorum
Price Guide Resources:
- WatchCharts for tracking price trends
- Collectible watch price guides both online and in print
Where to Sell Vintage Bulova Watches
Online Marketplaces
Online platforms offer wide audience reach but varying levels of buyer expertise:
- eBay: The largest marketplace for vintage watches, with high visibility but significant fees and potential for problematic buyers
- Etsy: Good for rare or unique vintage models, particularly women’s jewelry watches
- Chrono24: Specialized watch marketplace with knowledgeable buyers willing to pay fair prices
- WatchUSeek Forums: Community marketplace with knowledgeable collectors, often yielding fair prices with lower fees
Auction Houses
For particularly rare or valuable Bulova watches:
- Major Houses: Christie’s, Sotheby’s, and Bonhams handle higher-value pieces (typically $1,000+)
- Specialized Watch Auctions: Houses like Antiquorum and Heritage Auctions have specialized watch departments
- Regional Auction Houses: Often have lower commissions but potentially lower prices
Specialty Watch Retailers
Many vintage watch dealers buy directly or sell on consignment:
- Brick-and-mortar vintage watch shops: Often make immediate offers or sell on consignment
- Online vintage watch dealers: Like The Watch Preserve that specialize in restored vintage timepieces
- Watch shows and conventions: Direct sales to collectors without middleman fees
Direct to Collectors
Selling directly to collectors can maximize your return:
- Watch collector forums: Communities like WatchUSeek and Omega Forums have dedicated sales sections
- Social media collector groups: Facebook and Instagram have active vintage watch communities
- Local collector clubs: Many cities have watch collector meetups where watches change hands
When selling, consider the following to maximize value:
Selling Success Factors
Restoration and Service Considerations
To Restore or Preserve?
One of the most important decisions is whether to restore a watch or preserve its original condition:
- For collectors’ watches: Original condition, even with visible aging, often preserves value
- For everyday wear: Careful restoration can make the watch more functional while maintaining value
- For investment purposes: Consult with specialists before any restoration work
What Can Decrease Value
Some restoration practices can significantly reduce the value of vintage Bulova watches:
- Dial refinishing: Modern refinished dials are often obvious to collectors and can reduce value by 50%
- Case polishing: Aggressive polishing removes original finishes and case details
- Non-original replacement parts: Particularly hands, crowns, and movement components
- Incorrect service methods: Damaging movement components or altering original specifications
Best Practices for Service and Restoration
Proper Vintage Bulova Service Guidelines
Follow these guidelines when having your vintage Bulova serviced:
- Use a watchmaker specializing in vintage watches
- Request that original parts be returned if replaced
- Specify minimal case polishing (or none)
- Obtain detailed documentation of all work performed
- Request before and after photographs
- For valuable models, seek second opinions
Finding a Qualified Watchmaker
Not all watchmakers have experience with vintage Bulova watches. Look for:
- Membership in professional organizations like the American Watchmakers-Clockmakers Institute (AWCI)
- Specific experience with vintage American watches
- References from other collectors
- Portfolio of similar restoration work
- Clear communication about their restoration philosophy
The Special Case of Bulova Accutron
Accutron models with tuning fork movements require specialized knowledge:
- Few watchmakers have experience with tuning fork technology
- Parts are increasingly difficult to find
- Battery adaptations may be necessary for long-term use
- Original index wheels are irreplaceable and must be handled carefully
For Accutron models, it’s essential to find a watchmaker with specific Accutron experience, as improper service can permanently damage these watches.
Common Questions About Vintage Bulova Watch Values
How much are Bulova watches worth?
Bulova watches vary significantly in value. Basic vintage Bulova watches from the 1950s-1970s typically range from $100-$500 depending on condition. Rare models like the Accutron Spaceview can fetch $800-$2,500, while solid gold models or rare chronographs can exceed $3,000. Modern Bulova watches generally retail between $200-$1,000.
The value depends heavily on factors like:
- Model rarity
- Case material (solid gold commands premium prices)
- Condition and originality
- Whether it has original box and papers
Working condition of the movement
How can I tell how old my Bulova watch is?
Bulova uses a distinctive date code system that helps determine manufacturing year:
1950-1969: Letter-number code where the letter indicates decade (L=1950s, M=1960s) and number indicates year. For example, L4 = 1954.
1970-1980s: Two-letter code where first letter indicates decade (N=1970s) and second letter indicates year. For example, NC = 1972.
Pre-1950s: No standardized codes; dating relies on style, movement type, and case markings.
These codes are typically found inside the case back or on the movement itself. For detailed identification, resources like MyBulova.com provide extensive dating information.
Do Bulova watches hold value?
Some vintage Bulova watches do hold or increase in value, particularly:
- Accutron models, especially Spaceviews and Astronauts
- Vintage chronographs with Valjoux movements
- Military-issue watches from WWII and Korean War era
- Solid gold models in excellent condition
- Watches with unique or historically significant designs
However, most standard Bulova watches from the 1960s-1990s remain relatively affordable and don’t appreciate significantly. The brand is generally considered mid-range rather than a luxury investment like Rolex or Patek Philippe.
For investment purposes, focus on rare models with historical significance, technological innovation, or those made from precious metals.
Is a Bulova watch worth the money?
Yes, Bulova watches generally offer good value for their price point. Even vintage Bulova timepieces are known for:
- Quality movements that often continue functioning for decades
- Durable construction with good materials for their price category
- Historical significance and innovation (especially Accutron models)
- Attractive designs that hold up well over time
While not considered luxury watches, Bulova represents a solid mid-tier brand with a strong heritage and reputation for reliability. For collectors, vintage Bulova watches offer an accessible entry point to serious watch collecting without the high investment of luxury brands.
How much gold is in a vintage Bulova watch?
The gold content in vintage Bulova watches varies significantly by model:
Solid gold cases: Typically marked 10K, 14K, or 18K, containing 41.7%, 58.3%, or 75% pure gold respectively. A typical men’s 14K gold case might contain 15-25 grams of gold.
Gold-filled cases: Marked as "GF" with thickness ratios like 1/20 10K (meaning 1/20th of the weight is 10K gold). These have a much thinner layer of gold bonded to a base metal.
Gold-plated cases: The thinnest gold application, typically less than 1/1000th inch thick.
For value assessment, solid gold cases are worth significantly more than gold-filled or plated cases. The melt value of gold in a solid 14K case could range from $500-$1,200 at current gold prices, though well-preserved watches are typically worth more intact than for their gold content alone.
What is the most valuable vintage Bulova watch model?
The most valuable vintage Bulova watches typically include:
Rare Bulova chronographs from the 1940s and 1950s with special dials or features, which can sell for $3,000-$8,000
Prototype or early Accutron models, particularly those with documented NASA or military connections, which have sold for $5,000-$10,000+
Solid gold Bulova watches with diamonds from the Art Deco era (1920s-1930s), which can reach $2,000-$5,000 for exceptional examples
Limited edition or presentation Bulova watches given to dignitaries or for special occasions, which can command premium prices based on historical significance
Military-issue A-11 watches in exceptional condition with proper documentation, which can sell for $3,000-$6,000
The record prices for vintage Bulova watches are typically achieved at specialized watch auctions rather than through traditional retail channels.
Are 1950s and 1960s Bulova watches valuable?
1950s and 1960s Bulova watches are among the most collectible eras for the brand, with varying value depending on specific models:
Standard dress watches from these decades typically range from $150-$600 depending on condition, case material, and rarity
Self-winding models with more complex movements generally command $250-$800
Solid gold models from this era can range from $600-$2,000 depending on gold content and condition
Early Accutron models (from the 1960s) are particularly collectible, with common models starting around $400 and rare variants exceeding $2,000
"Sea King" and early "Marine Star" water-resistant models from the 1950s can fetch $400-$1,000 in excellent condition
The 1950s-1960s represents Bulova’s golden era in terms of design and innovation, making watches from this period increasingly sought after by collectors.
Where can I sell my vintage Bulova watch?
There are multiple options for selling vintage Bulova watches, each with different advantages:
Online marketplaces: eBay, Chrono24, and Etsy offer wide audience reach but involve fees and shipping logistics
Watch forums: Communities like WatchUSeek have dedicated sales sections with knowledgeable buyers
Auction houses: For rare or valuable models, consider specialist watch auctions at houses like Christie’s, Sotheby’s, or Antiquorum
Vintage watch dealers: Businesses like The Watch Preserve buy direct or sell on consignment
Local jewelers: Some specialize in vintage watches and may make cash offers
Social media: Instagram and Facebook have active vintage watch buying communities
For maximum value, ensure your watch is properly identified, photographed well, and has been serviced recently if possible. Having the original box and papers can increase value by 15-25%.
Conclusion: The Enduring Value of Vintage Bulova Timepieces
While not all vintage Bulova watches command premium prices, the brand’s rich history of innovation—from early wristwatches to the revolutionary Accutron—ensures that well-preserved examples will continue to be sought after by collectors and enthusiasts.
The value of a vintage Bulova watch extends beyond its monetary worth. These timepieces tell the story of American ingenuity and design evolution throughout the 20th century. Whether you’re considering selling a family heirloom or beginning your journey as a collector, understanding the factors that influence vintage Bulova watch values can help you make informed decisions.
For those looking to explore the world of vintage Bulova watches further, numerous resources exist to support your journey, from specialized collector websites to communities of fellow enthusiasts. With proper care and attention to authenticity, these timeless pieces can continue to be enjoyed for generations to come.
External Resources for Vintage Bulova Watch Collectors
MyBulova.com
The most comprehensive online database for vintage Bulova watch identification, dating, and valuation. Includes photos, catalog scans, and an active community forum.
WatchCharts Bulova Price Guide
Up-to-date price tracking and market analysis for various Bulova models, helping collectors understand current market values and trends.
The Watch Preserve Vintage Bulova Collection
Curated selection of vintage Bulova watches with detailed descriptions and condition assessments that help establish market values.
Watchophilia: Most Collectible Bulova Watches
Expert analysis of the most valuable and collectible Bulova watch models throughout the company's history.
Bidsquare Vintage Bulova Auction Results
Database of auction results for vintage Bulova watches, providing insight into current market values for rare and collectible models.
Watch Forums on Reddit
Active community discussions about vintage Bulova watch identification, valuation, and collecting experiences from enthusiasts worldwide.
Chrono24 Bulova Marketplace
Specialized watch marketplace featuring hundreds of vintage Bulova listings that provide current asking prices and sold data.
1stDibs Vintage Bulova Collection
Curated selection of higher-end vintage Bulova watches with detailed provenance information and professional valuations.
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| Category | Price | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Accutron Spaceview (1960s) | $800-$2,500 | Higher for gold cases and complete sets |
| Accutron Astronaut | $600-$1,800 | Premium for original bracelet |
| Military A-11 (1940s) | $800-$3,000 | Depends on condition and provenance |
| Chronograph Models (1960s-70s) | $500-$2,500 | Higher for rare dials and Valjoux movements |
| Art Deco Women's Models (1920s-30s) | $300-$1,200 | Premium for diamond-set examples |
| Standard 1950s-60s Self-Winding Models | $200-$600 | Higher for solid gold cases |
| 1970s Diving Models | $300-$800 | Higher for complete sets with boxes |
| Common Quartz Models (1980s-90s) | $50-$200 | Limited collectibility |